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I'm the proud owner of a (new to my workbench) Drake 2-C. This one is a very early model (Serial # 0260). I'm on the hunt for a summary of the differences between the early and later version of the 2-C, which will help with restoration. I do have the service CD data, but that does not cover this early version in any real details. 73 - Steve, KW4H

Hi folks, I’d like to sell my TR-4Cw-RIT / RV-4C / AC-4 station, but REALLY want to avoid packing and shipping so a local sale only. This is too nice a station not to be in regular use! Details here: https://forums.qrz.com/index.php?threads/tr-4cw-rit-rv-4c-ac-4-plus-more.827095/#post-6281969 QTH is Menlo Park, CA just off 101 between Marsh and Willow. Email address is good on QRZ. Many thanks! -- Bob (WO6W)

There is a "snap ring" that holds the hex nut in place located on the shaft of the PTO. The 2 holes (in the snap ring clip) seem smaller than the standard size. I purchased an entire snap ring set that came with the internal/external plies but the pliers are too large for the holes. The new snap rings should fit (?) It's just getting that snap ring off of there that I can't seem to figure out? I want to pull out the PTO this Saturday or Sunday so I want to get the correct ones from Amazon quickly. Does anyone know what pliers I need because I know someone out there must had done this in the past. Tnx! Mark

Are there any dimensional or other differences? Thanks for any experiential comments.

I've got a handful of boat anchor radios but my desk can only handle a few at a time. So I've got several on shelves, unfortunately in the garage. I know there are consequences to their being exposed to temperature extremes, dust, humidity, rodents, etc. What are some options? Would enclosing them in plastic along w something like a sock w rice to absorb moisture be recommended? Thanks! /Carl - W5SU Dallas TX

In the TR-4CW/RIT that I just purchased, both the 42.5 and the 43.6 Mhz crystals are missing. Anyone know where I can get these from? Mark

Does anyone have pc board layouts for this radio.... I am especially interested in the board with the rx transistor audio preamp.. It is jammed midst a bunch of cabling.

On my TR-4CW when I turn the rig off, I get a quick mouse sound. I just got my TR-4CW/RIT yesterday and it does the same thing. So either the sound is correct with these type of rigs OR it's the common denominator which makes it the power supply. This power supply was bought used from Ebay. This power supply was rebuilt using brand new boards that contained brand new capacitors and all the rest of the electronics. This was done by the Ebay seller. He claimed that he did testing of this power supply before he sold it including slowly bringing it up for hours on a variac and running it for hours before he sold it to me. So not sure sure what makes it quickly do a mouse sound when the knob is shut off (with gain at full clockwise position) ? Mark

I finally received my replacement IC1001 for the PBT board of my TR-7. (Took about a month, must have come from Asia) It's been a while since I've unsoldered/replaced a DIP IC like this. When I used to be a bench tech we'd use a combination of solder wick and solder suckers. Never easy to coax all 14 pins to release and it was pretty easy to damage something if you weren't patient. Is there a better way? Do better tools exist to simplify this task today? thx -- Craig/W8CS Greenville, SC

Dear Drake community, Some of you may know Stefan, DL7MAJ, who was very knowledgeable with Drake gear, especially TR7s. In the last few years he made some very nice videos on YouTube about TR7 repair. On his website are a few very interesting articles about TR7 modifications (and other amateur radio related material). Just today I learned that he became a silent key on January 20th, unexpectedly after a short but severe illness. See also (German): https://www.darc.de/der-club/distrikte/c/ortsverbaende/18/mitteilungen-aus-dem-ov/#c320924 RIP Stefan 73 de Dieter DL5RDO

On the rig I am working on, when I turn the SSB switch to the counter clockwise (left) position the USB comes on and when I turn the switch to the clockwise (X) (right) position the LSB light comes on. I've watched a few U tube videos where that is REVERSED! So I switched the lamps the other way around. Problem is that I feel the wrong filter comes on! Now that I got the lights correct the filters are backwards or at least the wrong one according to the SSB position. I know (I think?) that looking from the top (with the cover removed) that the wires with the black insulation on them are supposed to crisscross. (that's according to the service manual photo) What do you think is going on? Are the filters swapped? Mark

Looking at the posts over the past year or so, I wanted to comment on something that might help in certain situations. This is NOT a cure-all, but just a thought. CAUTION: ALWAYS POWER DOWN THE RADIO, AND DISCONNECT FROM THE POWER SUPPLY BEFORE WORKING ON IT. A number of years ago, I had a "New" TR4C, that had some plate meter intermittent issues. After going through the entire rig (pretty much a complete restoration, and some overkill I admit), I still had the same problem. But then, I saw that I had missed doing anything to the momentary slide switch that switches the plate meter to "relative output" when pressed in. Then, I saw it is located in a place that could collect a LOT of dirt & dust. Deoxit red partially solved the problem. But, I then removed it, and actually (very carefully.....not for the heavy-handed) disassembled the switch. It was VERY dirty. Cleaned the parts, polished the contacts gently (NOT sand paper, etc.), re-assembled, just a little deoxit, and had zero issues after that. Every unit I restore nowadays, always gets this treatment if there is the slightest intermittent symptoms with the switch. I think I have replied/posted in the past about this fix, and at least one person found it extremely helpful, and fixed a problem. All the best, and 73 to all Mark N5KAE

I had one of the red side band lenses pop out and thought I'd lost it forever because it was so small, but lucky for me I found it! How do I keep it from falling out again? A little crazy glue or something? This is a replacement face plate that I bought online because the original was very scratched up and I threw it out when I got the new faceplate. So I forgot if this new one is a NOS or a reprint face plate. Mark

Today's Drake User's Net yielded the following check-ins: B line: 1 C line: 3 TR4: 3 TR5: 3 TR7: 9 Other brands: 9 For a total of 28 check-ins. Next week, net control will be Ron, WB4HFN. 73, Mark, WB0IQK

There's probably a simple fix for this, but the problem is kicking my butt. I have a 2B on the bench -- nice specimen -- the copper isn't the greatest, but I've seen worse. Someone recapped it in the past and did a decent job with a Hayseed Hamfest recap kit. The S-meter in this one was performing correctly for me, and then suddenly dipped down to around S-1 on all signals and won't go above that. I can see meter movement, but it's now not tracking with the RF gain at all. AVC is in good shape, and varies as it should with the RF gain control. The zero pot works. Tried swapping out V1 and V5 to no avail. Any suggestions before I do a bad thing like shotgun tubes? 73 - Steve, KW4H

I am selling my Drake Novice Station which is complete with a Drake 2NT transmitter, R2C receiver with xtal calibrator, all original band xtals, and a Johnson 122 VFO. All 3 have been gone through, and recapped. All tubes checked, and weak tubes replaced with new. Package includes all interconnecting cables, original factory manuals for the 2NT & R2C, and reprint manual for the Johnson VFO. This station operates very well, and while the transmitter will put out full rated power, I never exceeded the novice 75w input as indicated by the red line in the meter. Everything you need to put it on the air is there with the exception of your key, speaker & antenna. It's essentially a plug and play station. If I were to nit pick, there is a tiny bit of noise when adjusting the receiver volume control near the bottom range which goes away when you stop turning it. Probably could use a shot of deoxit. My only reason for selling is because I'm in my mid 80's, and trying not to leave technical stuff for my family to sort out. I am asking $550.00 for all 3 units, and prefer local pickup at my qth in Oakland CA where you can try it out. If I end up having to ship it, I will pack everything at my expense, with the buyer paying the actual shipping cost. If shipped, I prefer PayPal + fees or Family and Friends. No warranty or returns, but you will not be disappointed. This is a fun rig to operate and I've always received excellent signal reports. I am good on QRZ where you can view my station, and I welcome any serious inquiries. I'll give it a week or two before listing it on qth.com and the West Coast Swap Net. David Cuttler KE6YX

FWIW I saw this on the Premium-RX list yesterday.... <Snip> 1. FOR SALE (Daniel Robinson) As part of a large slimming of the collection here, offering the following items. I'll be adding to this in coming days. I'll send photos to those contacting me. All in excellent condition: FS: Drake R-7A and RV-75 VFO I have no connection with the seller other than knowing he is a long time collector of very fine (and pricey!) radios. No prices were listed. He has many other very fine receivers for sale as well. Contact; Dan Robinson dxace1@... 73 Peter VE7PS