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TR7 - VFO dial light


 

My mail reason for removing the DR7 was to get to the dial lamp. I had suspected it was still incandescent, as it was dimmer than I would have liked. To my surprise, someone had rather sloppily replaced the lamp with a string of LED's and a series resistor. They had gobbed heat glue to hold them in place. See attached photos.

I replace with three LED's cut from a strip in a waterproof outer casing, double-sided taped behind the dial. These are bright white and the dial looks great. I installed a terminal strip on the side panel withh a flush screw to connect the LED and wiring that had previously been connected to the removed bayonet socket. Being in the outer sleave it would be very easy to replace them in the unlikely event that they ever failed in the future.

Either it was not connected or I inadvertently pulled it off because it was tangles in the heat glue, the braided wire to the spring-loaded bar. I assume this should be resoldered there?

Photos show detail of the change. The S meter and dial light are so bright they wash out in the front panel photo but look great to the eye. The bright white really bring out the blue color. The yellow light from an incandescent or the dim LED's gave an off color blue.
--
Doug, WA3DSP


 

I use the LED strip lights in the Collins HF-380 S-meter but I found that after a short time they were getting more yellow and dimmer. The problem is the silicone waterproof coating degrades from the ultraviolet from the LED chips. to solve this I simply peeled the coating off the strip and so far after 6 months of being on 24/7 the LEDs still look new.

73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD

At 02:30 AM 3/6/2023, you wrote:

My mail reason for removing the DR7 was to get to the dial lamp. I had suspected it was still incandescent, as it was dimmer than I would have liked. To my surprise, someone had rather sloppily replaced the lamp with a string of LED's and a series resistor. They had gobbed heat glue to hold them in place. See attached photos.

I replace with three LED's cut from a strip in a waterproof outer casing, double-sided taped behind the dial. These are bright white and the dial looks great. I installed a terminal strip on the side panel withh a flush screw to connect the LED and wiring that had previously been connected to the removed bayonet socket. Being in the outer sleave it would be very easy to replace them in the unlikely event that they ever failed in the future.

Either it was not connected or I inadvertently pulled it off because it was tangles in the heat glue, the braided wire to the spring-loaded bar. I assume this should be resoldered there?

Photos show detail of the change. The S meter and dial light are so bright they wash out in the front panel photo but look great to the eye. The bright white really bring out the blue color. The yellow light from an incandescent or the dim LED's gave an off color blue.
--
Doug, WA3DSP






 

From:?Joe Pyles

the silicone waterproof coating degrades from the ultraviolet from the LED chips.?
Makes you wonder what UV will do to the dial/bezel of the TR7.


Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM


 

I never heard of UV from LEDs that weren't specifically the expensive UV emitting type.
Is this only from LED strips?? Are you sure it really is UV and not just some kind of coating failing?
73,
Gary
WB6OGD


 

The way that a white LED works is that the semiconductor junction emits light in the ultra violet end of the spectrum and a phosphor coating over it converts the UV into visible light much like a florescent light bulb. The UV still comes through and yellows the waterproof coating. A year ago I replaced the LED strips in 2 Astron 50 Amp switching power supplies. The LED strips have the voltage reduced to around 9 volts to cut the brightness. One of the supplies is left on 24/7 as it powers my main TR7A that I never turn off. The other power supply hasn't been used since installing the LEDs. A few months ago I turned on the other power supply and the LEDs were many times brighter and more white. I removed the strip that been on all of the time and the clear coating was a dark yellow and the LEDs had dark spots from the coating becoming brittle and holding in heat. There is no heat in the power supplies and after the LEDs have been on fo over an hour their temperature after removing the coating was under 80 degrees F. I talked to SuperBrightLEDs.com and they explained what was happening and the sold me a strip that was not coated and it's been on for a month and is still OK.




[]


73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD

At 11:17 AM 3/7/2023, you wrote:

I never heard of UV from LEDs that weren't specifically the expensive UV emitting type.
Is this only from LED strips?? Are you sure it really is UV and not just some kind of coating failing?
73,
Gary
WB6OGD


 

I found the old LED strip that yellowed after a year and here it is compared to a new one.



[]



73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD

At 11:17 AM 3/7/2023, you wrote:

I never heard of UV from LEDs that weren't specifically the expensive UV emitting type.
Is this only from LED strips?? Are you sure it really is UV and not just some kind of coating failing?
73,
Gary
WB6OGD


 

Perhaps the waterproof lights you selected were poor quality to begin with.? Here is a guide on the different products and IP ratings.

https://www.ledyilighting.com/a-guide-to-waterproof-led-strip-lights/

Doug, WA3DSP


 

The first ones were from a vendor on ebay and were pretty cheap. The next ones were over 100 dollars from SuperBrightLEDs.com for 16 ft. I've been replacing incandescent bulbs in radios for over 10 years and I've seen what works and what doesn't. I've tried both IP65 and IP67 and both are silicone. My radios are never off so the LEDs are also on continuously and most people only use the radios a few hours a day if that so the silicone may last a long time. I'm just relating my experience with the waterproof covering.

73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD

At 04:38 PM 3/8/2023, you wrote:

Perhaps the waterproof lights you selected were poor quality to begin with.? Here is a guide on the different products and IP ratings.



Doug, WA3DSP


 

I would say it is different, say less than 700 hours a year vs. greater than 8000! Why would you need to leave a TR7 on 24/7/365? It doesn't drift. Kind of a waste

Doug, WA3DSP


 

My TR7As, R7As and TR5 don't drift at all because they all have the Cumbria Designs X-Lock in them. Drift is not an issue at all. I leave the Drakes and Collins HF-380 on all of the time because most failures occur at power on. On the Drakes the DPST switch on the AF/RF gain control is another common failure point and I could turn them off with an external switch but I don't. I have plenty of spare switches but changing them is beyond a pain.

73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD

At 02:37 AM 3/9/2023, you wrote:

I would say it is different, say less than 700 hours a year vs. greater than 8000! Why would you need to leave a TR7 on 24/7/365? It doesn't drift. Kind of a waste

Doug, WA3DSP