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MN-2000 Repair

n4buq All Messages By This Member #83709 I'm getting ready to resolder the connections from the new band switch to L2 and L3 in my MN-2000. I'm not positive, but I think the coils are silver plated and am wondering if there's any need to use silver-bearing solder for those connections. I know that for the ceramic terminal blocks in some Tektronix gear, silver-bearing solder is preferred to prevent leaching the silver plating from the plated areas in those blocks but I'm not sure if that's really an issue here. Anyone know what Drake used there? Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ
Joe - W7RKN All Messages By This Member #83710 Hi Barry.. If you do decide to go with silver solder, be very careful with your soldering as silver solder takes a substantial higher heat to use. As for soldering using regular solder, you will be ok, just make sure it is 40/60 solder, NOTthe newer non-led stuff..it is terrible! Joe - W7RKN toggle quoted message Show quoted text -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of n4buq via groups.io Subject: [DRAKE-RADIO] MN-2000 Repair I'm getting ready to resolder the connections from the new band switch to L2 and L3 in my MN-2000. I'm not positive, but I think the coils are silver plated and am wondering if there's any need to use silver-bearing solder for those connections. I know that for the ceramic terminal blocks in some Tektronix gear, silver-bearing solder is preferred to prevent leaching the silver plating from the plated areas in those blocks but I'm not sure if that's really an issue here. Anyone know what Drake used there? Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ
n4buq All Messages By This Member #83711 I'm thinking of silver-bearing solder, not exactly silver solder. I used to do silver soldering/brazing when I worked in a machine shop using silver solder. Silver-bearing solder typically has a very small percentage of silver - usually less than 5% - and can be soldered very much like ordinary 60/40 or 63/37. I'm pretty sure Drake soldered these with just normal Sn/Pb solder but thought I'd check just in case. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ toggle quoted message Show quoted text Hi Barry.. If you do decide to go with silver solder, be very careful with your soldering as silver solder takes a substantial higher heat to use. As for soldering using regular solder, you will be ok, just make sure it is 40/60 solder, NOTthe newer non-led stuff..it is terrible! Joe - W7RKN -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of n4buq via groups.io Subject: [DRAKE-RADIO] MN-2000 Repair I'm getting ready to resolder the connections from the new band switch to L2 and L3 in my MN-2000. I'm not positive, but I think the coils are silver plated and am wondering if there's any need to use silver-bearing solder for those connections. I know that for the ceramic terminal blocks in some Tektronix gear, silver-bearing solder is preferred to prevent leaching the silver plating from the plated areas in those blocks but I'm not sure if that's really an issue here. Anyone know what Drake used there? Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ
jerry-KF6VB All Messages By This Member #83714 Back in the day, Tektronix scopes were soldered with silver bearing solder. At my job in the instrument shop, I always had a little roll of that stuff in my tools. They had ceramic terminal strips with conductive stuff in little notches. Without silver in the solder, that conductive stuff ( silver, I guess ) could be leached off the strips. - Jerry, KF6VB toggle quoted message Show quoted text On 2025-03-17 12:11, n4buq wrote: I'm thinking of silver-bearing solder, not exactly silver solder. I used to do silver soldering/brazing when I worked in a machine shop using silver solder. Silver-bearing solder typically has a very small percentage of silver - usually less than 5% - and can be soldered very much like ordinary 60/40 or 63/37. I'm pretty sure Drake soldered these with just normal Sn/Pb solder but thought I'd check just in case. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ Hi Barry.. If you do decide to go with silver solder, be very careful with your soldering as silver solder takes a substantial higher heat to use. As for soldering using regular solder, you will be ok, just make sure it is 40/60 solder, NOTthe newer non-led stuff..it is terrible! Joe - W7RKN -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of n4buq via groups.io Subject: [DRAKE-RADIO] MN-2000 Repair I'm getting ready to resolder the connections from the new band switch to L2 and L3 in my MN-2000. I'm not positive, but I think the coils are silver plated and am wondering if there's any need to use silver-bearing solder for those connections. I know that for the ceramic terminal blocks in some Tektronix gear, silver-bearing solder is preferred to prevent leaching the silver plating from the plated areas in those blocks but I'm not sure if that's really an issue here. Anyone know what Drake used there? Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ
Thomas DL1TLE Member Profile All Messages By This Member #83715 According to my experience, lead-free solder is absolutely terrible. ? Beside the fact that is does not merge together with the material which should be soldered, it eats up the tip of my soldering iron. ? In my opinion it is pretty useless. ? Here in Europe, solder containing lead is forbidden. ? I was lucky to find old fashioned lead solder and ordered 500 grams. ? Strange times... ? Thomas - DL1TLE ? ? ?
Gene Balinski K1NR All Messages By This Member #83717 Also be sure that it does not contain acid rosin i.e. it is not "acid core solder" . ? 73 Gene K1NR
n4buq All Messages By This Member #83719 Yes, that's a bad no-no. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ toggle quoted message Show quoted text Also be sure that it does not contain acid rosin i.e. it is not "acid core solder" . ? 73 Gene K1NR
Jim Shorney All Messages By This Member #83720 The trick here is to keep the tip well tinned when not soldering with it. If you have a blob that is about to fall off the end you have enough. I have to deal with this horrible stuff at work. At my previous gig we had a gal who would not only not tin her tip, she would turn it up to 11 and also leave it running through breaks and lunch with no tinning. She went through several tips a day. I get many months out of a tip by keeping it soaked. Unleaded is banned from my workbench at home. But I have a lifetime supply of 63/37 thanks to the RoHS purge. On Mon, 17 Mar 2025 14:05:17 -0700 "Thomas DL1TLE via groups.io" <th.leiber@...> wrote: it eats up the tip of my soldering iron -- 73 -Jim NU0C
Evan All Messages By This Member #83721 When I turn my iron off I wait a little time before just putting a lot of solder on it until it cools; I have plenty of the old, good stuff. ?Then when I turn it on again, I know it is up to temperature when the blobs melt. On Monday, March 17, 2025 at 09:46:02 PM EDT, Jim Shorney via groups.io <jimnu0c@...> wrote: The trick here is to keep the tip well tinned when not soldering with it. If you have a blob that is about to fall off the end you have enough. I have to deal with this horrible stuff at work. At my previous gig we had a gal who would not only not tin her tip, she would turn it up to 11 and also leave it running through breaks and lunch with no tinning. She went through several tips a day. I get many months out of a tip by keeping it soaked. Unleaded is banned from my workbench at home. But I have a lifetime supply of 63/37 thanks to the RoHS purge. toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Mon, 17 Mar 2025 14:05:17 -0700 "Thomas DL1TLE via groups.io" <th.leiber@...> wrote: > it eats up the tip of my soldering iron -- 73 -Jim NU0C
Jim Shorney All Messages By This Member #83722 Tek scopes typically had a small spool of the stuff attached in a conspicuous location on the chassis. It's usually still there after the years unless nicked by a previous tech. On Mon, 17 Mar 2025 13:44:47 -0700 "jerry-KF6VB via groups.io" <jerry@...> wrote: Back in the day, Tektronix scopes were soldered with silver bearing solder. At my job in the instrument shop, I always had a little roll of that stuff in my tools. They had ceramic terminal strips with conductive stuff in little notches. Without silver in the solder, that conductive stuff ( silver, I guess ) could be leached off the strips. -- 73 -Jim NU0C
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 All Messages By This Member #83730 I just bought some 60/40 from Amazon, as my 45 year old spool is just about used up. You can still buy it new.? Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent from for iOS toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Mon, Mar 17, 2025 at 21:45, Jim Shorney via groups.io <jimNU0C@...> wrote: The trick here is to keep the tip well tinned when not soldering with it. If you have a blob that is about to fall off the end you have enough. I have to deal with this horrible stuff at work. At my previous gig we had a gal who would not only not tin her tip, she would turn it up to 11 and also leave it running through breaks and lunch with no tinning. She went through several tips a day. I get many months out of a tip by keeping it soaked. Unleaded is banned from my workbench at home. But I have a lifetime supply of 63/37 thanks to the RoHS purge. On Mon, 17 Mar 2025 14:05:17 -0700 "Thomas DL1TLE via groups.io" <th.leiber@...> wrote: > it eats up the tip of my soldering iron -- 73 -Jim NU0C

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