Hi All,

We got a little bit of snow yesterday, about 4 inches, so I decided to
finally pull the DR7 board to try and figure out what's causing the PLL
unlock problem.? I replaced the DR7 with the jumper board and the rig
has been solid all day. So, it's looks like a DR7 problem.? However, the
dial on the PTO is about 9 Kc high when I'm on the right frequency and
the knob is full clockwise and no way to get the dial to match the
actual frequency.? I looked on the WB4HFN site but I couldn't find an
article describing how to recenter the dial on the PTO.? Any advice on
how to get the dial recentered so it will be a bit closer than it is now?

73

Stan

I’m trying to remember if there was anything special about doing it because I know that I did have a TR7 with the 100s dial annoyingly out of whack.?

IIRC, there’s a spring-loaded idle gear, just like the older ones. Push against the tension and you can move the dials. It almost seemed like I needed a third hand but somehow I managed (and my hands aren’t small). The problem I remember is keeping both of them aligned at the same time.?

73,

Steve Wedge, W1ES

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

Sent from for iOS

On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 19:20, Stan Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...> wrote:

Hi All,

We got a little bit of snow yesterday, about 4 inches, so I decided to
finally pull the DR7 board to try and figure out what's causing the PLL
unlock problem.? I replaced the DR7 with the jumper board and the rig
has been solid all day. So, it's looks like a DR7 problem.? However, the
dial on the PTO is about 9 Kc high when I'm on the right frequency and
the knob is full clockwise and no way to get the dial to match the
actual frequency.? I looked on the WB4HFN site but I couldn't find an
article describing how to recenter the dial on the PTO.? Any advice on
how to get the dial recentered so it will be a bit closer than it is now?

73

Stan

Looks like the only way to move the dial is to loosen the screw on the arm in this pic. Looks like that will allow one to push the gear back enough to move the dial. This is a pic of the PTO in my RV7. Looks like it use a bit of cleaning while I have it out.


73

Stan
KM4HQE

On 1/12/25 06:33, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io wrote:

I’m trying to remember if there was anything special about doing it because I know that I did have a TR7 with the 100s dial annoyingly out of whack.?

IIRC, there’s a spring-loaded idle gear, just like the older ones. Push against the tension and you can move the dials. It almost seemed like I needed a third hand but somehow I managed (and my hands aren’t small). The problem I remember is keeping both of them aligned at the same time.?

73,

Steve Wedge, W1ES

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

Sent from for iOS

On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 19:20, Stan Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...> wrote:

Hi All,

We got a little bit of snow yesterday, about 4 inches, so I decided to
finally pull the DR7 board to try and figure out what's causing the PLL
unlock problem.? I replaced the DR7 with the jumper board and the rig
has been solid all day. So, it's looks like a DR7 problem.? However, the
dial on the PTO is about 9 Kc high when I'm on the right frequency and
the knob is full clockwise and no way to get the dial to match the
actual frequency.? I looked on the WB4HFN site but I couldn't find an
article describing how to recenter the dial on the PTO.? Any advice on
how to get the dial recentered so it will be a bit closer than it is now?

73

Stan

No, I was wrong. That lever will pivot permitting one to move the dial. Looks like a lot of? "fun" though.

73

Stan
KM4HQE

On 1/12/25 10:12, Stan Gammons via groups.io wrote:

Looks like the only way to move the dial is to loosen the screw on the arm in this pic. Looks like that will allow one to push the gear back enough to move the dial. This is a pic of the PTO in my RV7. Looks like it use a bit of cleaning while I have it out.


73

Stan
KM4HQE

On 1/12/25 06:33, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io wrote:

I’m trying to remember if there was anything special about doing it because I know that I did have a TR7 with the 100s dial annoyingly out of whack.?

IIRC, there’s a spring-loaded idle gear, just like the older ones. Push against the tension and you can move the dials. It almost seemed like I needed a third hand but somehow I managed (and my hands aren’t small). The problem I remember is keeping both of them aligned at the same time.?

73,

Steve Wedge, W1ES

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

Sent from for iOS

On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 19:20, Stan Gammons via groups.io < buttercup11421@...> wrote:

Hi All,

We got a little bit of snow yesterday, about 4 inches, so I decided to
finally pull the DR7 board to try and figure out what's causing the PLL
unlock problem.? I replaced the DR7 with the jumper board and the rig
has been solid all day. So, it's looks like a DR7 problem.? However, the
dial on the PTO is about 9 Kc high when I'm on the right frequency and
the knob is full clockwise and no way to get the dial to match the
actual frequency.? I looked on the WB4HFN site but I couldn't find an
article describing how to recenter the dial on the PTO.? Any advice on
how to get the dial recentered so it will be a bit closer than it is now?

73

Stan

Hmmm.?

The rig I did had a s/n in the 5000s. Perhaps a change? ?I can’t exactly remember, unfortunately.?

Steve Wedge, W1ES

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

Sent from for iOS

On Sun, Jan 12, 2025 at 11:31, Stan Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...> wrote:

No, I was wrong. That lever will pivot permitting one to move the dial. Looks like a lot of? "fun" though.

73

Stan
KM4HQE

On 1/12/25 10:12, Stan Gammons via groups.io wrote:

Looks like the only way to move the dial is to loosen the screw on the arm in this pic. Looks like that will allow one to push the gear back enough to move the dial. This is a pic of the PTO in my RV7. Looks like it use a bit of cleaning while I have it out.


73

Stan
KM4HQE

On 1/12/25 06:33, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io wrote:

I’m trying to remember if there was anything special about doing it because I know that I did have a TR7 with the 100s dial annoyingly out of whack.?

IIRC, there’s a spring-loaded idle gear, just like the older ones. Push against the tension and you can move the dials. It almost seemed like I needed a third hand but somehow I managed (and my hands aren’t small). The problem I remember is keeping both of them aligned at the same time.?

73,

Steve Wedge, W1ES

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

Sent from for iOS

On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 19:20, Stan Gammons via groups.io < buttercup11421@...> wrote:

Hi All,

We got a little bit of snow yesterday, about 4 inches, so I decided to
finally pull the DR7 board to try and figure out what's causing the PLL
unlock problem.? I replaced the DR7 with the jumper board and the rig
has been solid all day. So, it's looks like a DR7 problem.? However, the
dial on the PTO is about 9 Kc high when I'm on the right frequency and
the knob is full clockwise and no way to get the dial to match the
actual frequency.? I looked on the WB4HFN site but I couldn't find an
article describing how to recenter the dial on the PTO.? Any advice on
how to get the dial recentered so it will be a bit closer than it is now?

73

Stan

The rig I have is in the 9300 range. RV7 is in the 2400 range.?

I messed with the PTO in the RV7 and I see how it's done now.? Both levers, the one on the PTO in the TR7 and the one on the PTO in the RV7, are a bit sluggish. Not sure if lubricating the pivot pin is the right decision but there is a spring on the bottom of the lever to a hole in the left side of the frame. If you pull the lever to the left you can move the white dial, but not the clear dial. I have the one on my RV7 pretty close.? It looks like one would have to loosen the nut on the front to move the clear dial. I think that is what needs to be done with the PTO in the TR7.

Maybe I can fix the broken DR7 board I got off Ebay when I get it.? Kind of given up on the original one. It seems pretty flaky.

Time to put the RV7 back together.


73

Stan
KM4HQE

On 1/12/25 16:50, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io wrote:

Hmmm.?

The rig I did had a s/n in the 5000s. Perhaps a change? ?I can’t exactly remember, unfortunately.?

Steve Wedge, W1ES

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

Sent from for iOS

On Sun, Jan 12, 2025 at 11:31, Stan Gammons via groups.io < buttercup11421@...> wrote:

No, I was wrong. That lever will pivot permitting one to move the dial. Looks like a lot of? "fun" though.

73

Stan
KM4HQE

On 1/12/25 10:12, Stan Gammons via groups.io wrote:

Looks like the only way to move the dial is to loosen the screw on the arm in this pic. Looks like that will allow one to push the gear back enough to move the dial. This is a pic of the PTO in my RV7. Looks like it use a bit of cleaning while I have it out.


73

Stan
KM4HQE

On 1/12/25 06:33, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io wrote:

I’m trying to remember if there was anything special about doing it because I know that I did have a TR7 with the 100s dial annoyingly out of whack.?

IIRC, there’s a spring-loaded idle gear, just like the older ones. Push against the tension and you can move the dials. It almost seemed like I needed a third hand but somehow I managed (and my hands aren’t small). The problem I remember is keeping both of them aligned at the same time.?

73,

Steve Wedge, W1ES

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

Sent from for iOS

On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 19:20, Stan Gammons via groups.io < buttercup11421@...> wrote:

Hi All,

We got a little bit of snow yesterday, about 4 inches, so I decided to
finally pull the DR7 board to try and figure out what's causing the PLL
unlock problem.? I replaced the DR7 with the jumper board and the rig
has been solid all day. So, it's looks like a DR7 problem.? However, the
dial on the PTO is about 9 Kc high when I'm on the right frequency and
the knob is full clockwise and no way to get the dial to match the
actual frequency.? I looked on the WB4HFN site but I couldn't find an
article describing how to recenter the dial on the PTO.? Any advice on
how to get the dial recentered so it will be a bit closer than it is now?

73

Stan

Let me know if you need me to look in mine :-)

Steve Wedge, W1ES

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

Sent from for iOS

On Sun, Jan 12, 2025 at 18:28, Stan Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...> wrote:

The rig I have is in the 9300 range. RV7 is in the 2400 range.?

I messed with the PTO in the RV7 and I see how it's done now.? Both levers, the one on the PTO in the TR7 and the one on the PTO in the RV7, are a bit sluggish. Not sure if lubricating the pivot pin is the right decision but there is a spring on the bottom of the lever to a hole in the left side of the frame. If you pull the lever to the left you can move the white dial, but not the clear dial. I have the one on my RV7 pretty close.? It looks like one would have to loosen the nut on the front to move the clear dial. I think that is what needs to be done with the PTO in the TR7.

Maybe I can fix the broken DR7 board I got off Ebay when I get it.? Kind of given up on the original one. It seems pretty flaky.

Time to put the RV7 back together.


73

Stan
KM4HQE

On 1/12/25 16:50, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io wrote:

Hmmm.?

The rig I did had a s/n in the 5000s. Perhaps a change? ?I can’t exactly remember, unfortunately.?

Steve Wedge, W1ES

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

Sent from for iOS

On Sun, Jan 12, 2025 at 11:31, Stan Gammons via groups.io < buttercup11421@...> wrote:

No, I was wrong. That lever will pivot permitting one to move the dial. Looks like a lot of? "fun" though.

73

Stan
KM4HQE

On 1/12/25 10:12, Stan Gammons via groups.io wrote:

Looks like the only way to move the dial is to loosen the screw on the arm in this pic. Looks like that will allow one to push the gear back enough to move the dial. This is a pic of the PTO in my RV7. Looks like it use a bit of cleaning while I have it out.


73

Stan
KM4HQE

On 1/12/25 06:33, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io wrote:

I’m trying to remember if there was anything special about doing it because I know that I did have a TR7 with the 100s dial annoyingly out of whack.?

IIRC, there’s a spring-loaded idle gear, just like the older ones. Push against the tension and you can move the dials. It almost seemed like I needed a third hand but somehow I managed (and my hands aren’t small). The problem I remember is keeping both of them aligned at the same time.?

73,

Steve Wedge, W1ES

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

Sent from for iOS

On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 19:20, Stan Gammons via groups.io < buttercup11421@...> wrote:

Hi All,

We got a little bit of snow yesterday, about 4 inches, so I decided to
finally pull the DR7 board to try and figure out what's causing the PLL
unlock problem.? I replaced the DR7 with the jumper board and the rig
has been solid all day. So, it's looks like a DR7 problem.? However, the
dial on the PTO is about 9 Kc high when I'm on the right frequency and
the knob is full clockwise and no way to get the dial to match the
actual frequency.? I looked on the WB4HFN site but I couldn't find an
article describing how to recenter the dial on the PTO.? Any advice on
how to get the dial recentered so it will be a bit closer than it is now?

73

Stan