|
Justin:
I've done many PTO's in the past, and every one was removed from the radio...both rx and? tx.? Note that you will have to remove the front panel to get the PTO out.
BTW, the "Smooth and Silky" PTO article as written by Neil, K1VY.? Ron posted that to his great Drake site.? I'd recommend?going through another article that I wrote on PTO removal that you can find on Ron's site in the Hamvention presentation for 2018.? The link is here and starts on Page 15.? I tried to cover some things that Neil left out...like how to remove the front panel and what tools you will need.....and a few "gotch ya's".
With the front panel removed, you have an opportunity to clean between the front and sub-panels, the dial window, and make sure the dial window goes back on on the front side of the sub-panel.? Early C-lines had it installed on the rear of the sub-panel, which made it more prone to dial rub.
Also...there are at least 4 different mechanical variations of the R-4C PTO.? Make sure you take a picture at EVERY step of its disassembly!? Lay the pieces out on a towel IN ORDER and snap a pic at each step.? If the pics in either my article or Neil's show a different PTO than yours, and you get stuck...get in touch with me as I may have additional pics that could help.? Of the 4 types, I have had three of the versions apart.? One is extremely rare and you are unlikely?to come across that one.
Good luck!
73 Peter VE7PS
Doing the Smooth and silky PTO cleaning preceture to my R-4C by WB4HFN?
I¡¯m up to the disassembly part where the PTO can be removed from the receiver as far as the service loop will allow, however, the long metallic part of the shaft is unable to clear the front face of the cabinet round cut out hole. In some of the pictures on the site, looks like this metallic shaft was removed and just the brass part of the shaft is left.?
if I can remove this metal shaft part from the brass part, then I would be able to remove the PTO and proceed.?
does anyone know if this can be removed and how it is removed??
|
I was going to comment that attempting to keep the PTO wired to the set involve a lot of gymnastics and take a lot more time than simply removing the front panel, clipping the three wires to the PTO filter board and properly removing the PTO to an area where you can easily work on it.
The nylon gears (even with the "metal" gear train) are going to offer more resistance than a strictly metal setup like the B Line and earlier (Yes, those have a nylon gear but it's not directly bearing on the tuning knob).
I will add that the occurrence of "oil" on that nylon gear in the earlier sets was probably NOT applied by well-intentioned hams but is actually the lighter oil component of the grease that was installed in the ball bearings of the PTO.? The lighter portions of the grease separate and migrate via the pinion gear.? The best thing to do with those is to clean out the entire assembly with mineral spirits and then wash with IPA.
I have been considering using lithium grease for these bearings and am wondering if anyone else has tried this.? The Li grease wouldn't break down like the GP grease that Drake used with the bearings.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with secure email.
------- Original Message -------
On Sunday, July 16th, 2023 at 5:45 PM, VE7PS <ve7ps@...> wrote:
Justin:
I've done many PTO's in the past, and every one was removed from the radio...both rx and tx. Note that you will have to remove the front panel to get the PTO out.
BTW, the "Smooth and Silky" PTO article as written by Neil, K1VY. Ron posted that to his great Drake site. I'd recommend going through another article that I wrote on PTO removal that you can find on Ron's site in the Hamvention presentation for 2018. The link is here and starts on Page 15. I tried to cover some things that Neil left out...like how to remove the front panel and what tools you will need.....and a few "gotch ya's".
With the front panel removed, you have an opportunity to clean between the front and sub-panels, the dial window, and make sure the dial window goes back on on the front side of the sub-panel. Early C-lines had it installed on the rear of the sub-panel, which made it more prone to dial rub.
Also...there are at least 4 different mechanical variations of the R-4C PTO. Make sure you take a picture at EVERY step of its disassembly! Lay the pieces out on a towel IN ORDER and snap a pic at each step. If the pics in either my article or Neil's show a different PTO than yours, and you get stuck...get in touch with me as I may have additional pics that could help. Of the 4 types, I have had three of the versions apart. One is extremely rare and you are unlikely to come across that one.
Good luck!
73 Peter VE7PS
Doing the Smooth and silky PTO cleaning preceture to my R-4C by WB4HFN
I¡¯m up to the disassembly part where the PTO can be removed from the receiver as far as the service loop will allow, however, the long metallic part of the shaft is unable to clear the front face of the cabinet round cut out hole. In some of the pictures on the site, looks like this metallic shaft was removed and just the brass part of the shaft is left.
if I can remove this metal shaft part from the brass part, then I would be able to remove the PTO and proceed.
does anyone know if this can be removed and how it is removed??
|
Steve:
I agree 100% with your theory on migration of the lighter?components?of the bearing grease.
I have been using white lithium grease on the ball race for years.? I've never had to go back and re-clean one, and re-grease, though there are so many Drakes here none of them get "over-used".
Removing the front panel just?makes so much sense and allows proper cleaning of the Preselector tuning drive, all the pots, etc.? I can have the front panel removed?and the PTO out in 10 minutes or less.? Great time to clean and re-whiten the line on the knobs too!? Front panel gets cleaned then a couple of coats of Pledge with a soft cloth polish between the 2 coats and again after the 2nd coat.? I wouldn't even dream?of cleaning a PTO gearset without removing it from the rig.
That said....you CAN do a pretty good job of cleaning?the front PTO bearing without removing?the PTO.? You do need to remove the lamp hood and dial light socket. I use 6" cotton?swabs dipped in 99% alcohol and clean the bearing as best you can.? Rotate the dial during this process.? You will need 6 or 7 swabs in all likelihood to eliminate most of the old grease.? Use the whole?lithium sparingly.? One or two VERY small dabs will be enough.? Use the stick end of the cotton swabs?you just used to clean the bearing out.
73 Peter VE7PS
On Sun, Jul 16, 2023 at 2:58?PM Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via <w1es= [email protected]> wrote: I was going to comment that attempting to keep the PTO wired to the set involve a lot of gymnastics and take a lot more time than simply removing the front panel, clipping the three wires to the PTO filter board and properly removing the PTO to an area where you can easily work on it.
The nylon gears (even with the "metal" gear train) are going to offer more resistance than a strictly metal setup like the B Line and earlier (Yes, those have a nylon gear but it's not directly bearing on the tuning knob).
I will add that the occurrence of "oil" on that nylon gear in the earlier sets was probably NOT applied by well-intentioned hams but is actually the lighter oil component of the grease that was installed in the ball bearings of the PTO.? The lighter portions of the grease separate and migrate via the pinion gear.? The best thing to do with those is to clean out the entire assembly with mineral spirits and then wash with IPA.
I have been considering using lithium grease for these bearings and am wondering if anyone else has tried this.? The Li grease wouldn't break down like the GP grease that Drake used with the bearings.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with secure email.
------- Original Message -------
On Sunday, July 16th, 2023 at 5:45 PM, VE7PS < ve7ps@...> wrote:
Justin:
I've done many PTO's in the past, and every one was removed from the radio...both rx and tx. Note that you will have to remove the front panel to get the PTO out.
BTW, the "Smooth and Silky" PTO article as written by Neil, K1VY. Ron posted that to his great Drake site. I'd recommend going through another article that I wrote on PTO removal that you can find on Ron's site in the Hamvention presentation for 2018. The link is here and starts on Page 15. I tried to cover some things that Neil left out...like how to remove the front panel and what tools you will need.....and a few "gotch ya's".
With the front panel removed, you have an opportunity to clean between the front and sub-panels, the dial window, and make sure the dial window goes back on on the front side of the sub-panel. Early C-lines had it installed on the rear of the sub-panel, which made it more prone to dial rub.
Also...there are at least 4 different mechanical variations of the R-4C PTO. Make sure you take a picture at EVERY step of its disassembly! Lay the pieces out on a towel IN ORDER and snap a pic at each step. If the pics in either my article or Neil's show a different PTO than yours, and you get stuck...get in touch with me as I may have additional pics that could help. Of the 4 types, I have had three of the versions apart. One is extremely rare and you are unlikely to come across that one.
Good luck!
73 Peter VE7PS
Doing the Smooth and silky PTO cleaning preceture to my R-4C by WB4HFN
I¡¯m up to the disassembly part where the PTO can be removed from the receiver as far as the service loop will allow, however, the long metallic part of the shaft is unable to clear the front face of the cabinet round cut out hole. In some of the pictures on the site, looks like this metallic shaft was removed and just the brass part of the shaft is left.
if I can remove this metal shaft part from the brass part, then I would be able to remove the PTO and proceed.
does anyone know if this can be removed and how it is removed??
|
You definitely give good advice, thank you.?
Back when I was a kid in my 20s and building motors, changing cam shafts to 3/4 cams and so on, use to lay all of the old parts out with all the rings and parts in order as they would be in the engine, as they came out. Sort of forming the blueprint for the new parts to be easily installed.
thanks again!!?
|
Hi Peter,
I had a question for you. I know this is a semi old thread, but ran into this exact PTO issue on my SPR-4. The PTO bearing area is slipping/gumming up and I believe it needs to be cleaned. Would you see any issue with using acetone vs. the 99% alcohol to clean the balls/ball race with the PTO still installed? The rest of the PTO gears look pristine and I wanted to try the "in place" cleaning before I go to the PTO removal and clean process.
73, Gordon KJ6IKT
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sun, Jul 16, 2023 at 03:38 PM, VE7PS wrote:
Steve:
?
I agree 100% with your theory on migration of the lighter?components?of the bearing grease.
?
I have been using white lithium grease on the ball race for years.? I've never had to go back and re-clean one, and re-grease, though there are so many Drakes here none of them get "over-used".
?
Removing the front panel just?makes so much sense and allows proper cleaning of the Preselector tuning drive, all the pots, etc.? I can have the front panel removed?and the PTO out in 10 minutes or less.? Great time to clean and re-whiten the line on the knobs too!? Front panel gets cleaned then a couple of coats of Pledge with a soft cloth polish between the 2 coats and again after the 2nd coat.? I wouldn't even dream?of cleaning a PTO gearset without removing it from the rig.
?
That said....you CAN do a pretty good job of cleaning?the front PTO bearing without removing?the PTO.? You do need to remove the lamp hood and dial light socket. I use 6" cotton?swabs dipped in 99% alcohol and clean the bearing as best you can.? Rotate the dial during this process.? You will need 6 or 7 swabs in all likelihood to eliminate most of the old grease.? Use the whole?lithium sparingly.? One or two VERY small dabs will be enough.? Use the stick end of the cotton swabs?you just used to clean the bearing out.
?
73
Peter
VE7PS
|
Gordon:
By all means yes!? Many of my Drakes have had exactly this level of cleaning, though many have had the?full removal and disassembly too, which is always better.? That said, the most common problem in the C-line is gumming up of the ball race at the front of the PTO.
Acetone would likely work as well....but I like to use the 99% alcohol and have stuck with that for years.? It's easier to breathe than acetone!? Easier on the hands too.
In order to avoid removal and disassembly, I douod do the following;
1) Remove the tuning knob and sponge rubber bushing on the front.? Remove the top cabinet cover, the dial light shroud and blue/white plastic lenses.? Set the dial pilot lamp off to the side. Don't lose the 3 screws/locks and spacers!
2) Put a thick soft cloth down and position the radio FACE DOWN.? You may have to get inventive to do this - just be careful?of the front panel.
3)? Using your chive?of solvent and some 6" swabs if you have them, swab out as much of the grease in the bearing race as you can.? You should be able to get rid of almost all of it.? Some fluid may leak down the front of the PTO shaft and out the front.? This will take 6 or 8 swabs to do this, at least.
4) Swab off the threaded tuning rod in the PTO, as well as the? "one sided tuning fork" and shaft that it rides along.
5) Swipe your bottle of sewing machine oil from your spouse.? Drop ONE drop on the threaded rod and run the PTO end to end a few times.? Swab off any excess?oil, but do not wipe the threaded shaft clean of the new oil.? Using a small stick like a piece of a 6" swab stick, drop in a gob or two of grease.? I have used white lithium but have switched to copper-infused grease of late and it seems to work well.? Clean up any excess grease leaving only what's in the bearing race.
6)? Turn the radio so the front panel is upright.? Drop ONE DROP of the sewing machine oil on the 1/4" steel tuning shaft where it runs?into the brass bushing.? Wipe off any excess.? Work that in by tuning the PTO back and forth. Replace the sponge bushing, dial skirt and knob.? Press in on the knob, then tighten it.
I just did this with an RR-2....sort of an SPR-4 with built in FS-4 synthesizer, and it worked well.? The gears were all clean to start with but removing the front panel on htis radio is much more involved than an SPR-4 and I did not want to get into that.?
Good luck!? Let me know how it goes.
73 Peter VE7PS
6
On Thu, Nov 23, 2023 at 2:25?PM Gordon, KJ6IKT < gfsmith@...> wrote: Hi Peter,
I had a question for you. I know this is a semi old thread, but ran into this exact PTO issue on my SPR-4. The PTO bearing area is slipping/gumming up and I believe it needs to be cleaned. Would you see any issue with using acetone vs. the 99% alcohol to clean the balls/ball race with the PTO still installed? The rest of the PTO gears look pristine and I wanted to try the "in place" cleaning before I go to the PTO removal and clean process.
73, Gordon KJ6IKT
On Sun, Jul 16, 2023 at 03:38 PM, VE7PS wrote:
Steve:
?
I agree 100% with your theory on migration of the lighter?components?of the bearing grease.
?
I have been using white lithium grease on the ball race for years.? I've never had to go back and re-clean one, and re-grease, though there are so many Drakes here none of them get "over-used".
?
Removing the front panel just?makes so much sense and allows proper cleaning of the Preselector tuning drive, all the pots, etc.? I can have the front panel removed?and the PTO out in 10 minutes or less.? Great time to clean and re-whiten the line on the knobs too!? Front panel gets cleaned then a couple of coats of Pledge with a soft cloth polish between the 2 coats and again after the 2nd coat.? I wouldn't even dream?of cleaning a PTO gearset without removing it from the rig.
?
That said....you CAN do a pretty good job of cleaning?the front PTO bearing without removing?the PTO.? You do need to remove the lamp hood and dial light socket. I use 6" cotton?swabs dipped in 99% alcohol and clean the bearing as best you can.? Rotate the dial during this process.? You will need 6 or 7 swabs in all likelihood to eliminate most of the old grease.? Use the whole?lithium sparingly.? One or two VERY small dabs will be enough.? Use the stick end of the cotton swabs?you just used to clean the bearing out.
?
73
Peter
VE7PS
|
My take is that the grease is solidified. You need a non-polar solvent like mineral spirits to clean out the bearing race. Re-grease and that part is done.?
I take mine apart but you can probably save yourself the frustration of chasing loose ball bearings by simply just reapplying general purpose grease in the race.?
Having said all that (whew!)¡
Slipping tuning usually, in the C Line, is due to a hardened bushing on?the main shaft. Today, that will mean cutting some high pressure fuel line to precise dimensions to couple the knob to the skirt.?
Most times, slippage of tuning Is due to the slippage of that bushing.?
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Thu, Nov 23, 2023 at 18:18, VE7PS < ve7ps@...> wrote: Gordon:
By all means yes! Many of my Drakes have had exactly this level of cleaning, though many have had the full removal and disassembly too, which is always better. That said, the most common problem in the C-line is gumming up of the ball race at the front of the PTO.
Acetone would likely work as well....but I like to use the 99% alcohol and have stuck with that for years. It's easier to breathe than acetone! Easier on the hands too.
In order to avoid removal and disassembly, I douod do the following;
1) Remove the tuning knob and sponge rubber bushing on the front. Remove the top cabinet cover, the dial light shroud and blue/white plastic lenses. Set the dial pilot lamp off to the side. Don't lose the 3 screws/locks and spacers!
2) Put a thick soft cloth down and position the radio FACE DOWN. You may have to get inventive to do this - just be careful of the front panel.
3) Using your chive of solvent and some 6" swabs if you have them, swab out as much of the grease in the bearing race as you can. You should be able to get rid of almost all of it. Some fluid may leak down the front of the PTO shaft and out the front. This will take 6 or 8 swabs to do this, at least.
4) Swab off the threaded tuning rod in the PTO, as well as the "one sided tuning fork" and shaft that it rides along.
5) Swipe your bottle of sewing machine oil from your spouse. Drop ONE drop on the threaded rod and run the PTO end to end a few times. Swab off any excess oil, but do not wipe the threaded shaft clean of the new oil. Using a small stick like a piece of a 6" swab stick, drop in a gob or two of grease. I have used white lithium but have switched to copper-infused grease of late and it seems to work well. Clean up any excess grease leaving only what's in the bearing race.
6) Turn the radio so the front panel is upright. Drop ONE DROP of the sewing machine oil on the 1/4" steel tuning shaft where it runs into the brass bushing. Wipe off any excess. Work that in by tuning the PTO back and forth. Replace the sponge bushing, dial skirt and knob. Press in on the knob, then tighten it.
I just did this with an RR-2....sort of an SPR-4 with built in FS-4 synthesizer, and it worked well. The gears were all clean to start with but removing the front panel on htis radio is much more involved than an SPR-4 and I did not want to get into that.
Good luck! Let me know how it goes.
73 Peter VE7PS
6
On Thu, Nov 23, 2023 at 2:25?PM Gordon, KJ6IKT < gfsmith@...> wrote: Hi Peter,
I had a question for you. I know this is a semi old thread, but ran into this exact PTO issue on my SPR-4. The PTO bearing area is slipping/gumming up and I believe it needs to be cleaned. Would you see any issue with using acetone vs. the 99% alcohol to clean the balls/ball race with the PTO still installed? The rest of the PTO gears look pristine and I wanted to try the "in place" cleaning before I go to the PTO removal and clean process.
73, Gordon KJ6IKT
On Sun, Jul 16, 2023 at 03:38 PM, VE7PS wrote:
Steve:
I agree 100% with your theory on migration of the lighter components of the bearing grease.
I have been using white lithium grease on the ball race for years. I've never had to go back and re-clean one, and re-grease, though there are so many Drakes here none of them get "over-used".
Removing the front panel just makes so much sense and allows proper cleaning of the Preselector tuning drive, all the pots, etc. I can have the front panel removed and the PTO out in 10 minutes or less. Great time to clean and re-whiten the line on the knobs too! Front panel gets cleaned then a couple of coats of Pledge with a soft cloth polish between the 2 coats and again after the 2nd coat. I wouldn't even dream of cleaning a PTO gearset without removing it from the rig.
That said....you CAN do a pretty good job of cleaning the front PTO bearing without removing the PTO. You do need to remove the lamp hood and dial light socket. I use 6" cotton swabs dipped in 99% alcohol and clean the bearing as best you can. Rotate the dial during this process. You will need 6 or 7 swabs in all likelihood to eliminate most of the old grease. Use the whole lithium sparingly. One or two VERY small dabs will be enough. Use the stick end of the cotton swabs you just used to clean the bearing out.
73
Peter
VE7PS
|
FYI, acetone is an excellent paint remover. ?Use with caution near any finished areas.
73,
Bill
KJ5BNE
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -?
Bill Blodgett
Arlington, Texas
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Nov 23, 2023, at 4:25?PM, Gordon, KJ6IKT <gfsmith@...> wrote:
Hi Peter, I had a question for you. I know this is a semi old thread, but ran into this exact PTO issue on my SPR-4. The PTO bearing area is slipping/gumming up and I believe it needs to be cleaned. Would you see any issue with using acetone vs. the 99% alcohol to clean the balls/ball race with the PTO still installed? The rest of the PTO gears look pristine and I wanted to try the "in place" cleaning before I go to the PTO removal and clean process. 73, Gordon KJ6IKT On Sun, Jul 16, 2023 at 03:38 PM, VE7PS wrote:
Steve:
?
I agree 100% with your theory on migration of the lighter?components?of the bearing grease.
?
I have been using white lithium grease on the ball race for years.? I've never had to go back and re-clean one, and re-grease, though there are so many Drakes here none of them get "over-used".
?
Removing the front panel just?makes so much sense and allows proper cleaning of the Preselector tuning drive, all the pots, etc.? I can have the front panel removed?and the PTO out in 10 minutes or less.? Great time to clean and re-whiten the line on the knobs too!? Front panel gets cleaned then a couple of coats of Pledge with a soft cloth polish between the 2 coats and again after the 2nd coat.? I wouldn't even dream?of cleaning a PTO gearset without removing it from the rig.
?
That said....you CAN do a pretty good job of cleaning?the front PTO bearing without removing?the PTO.? You do need to remove the lamp hood and dial light socket. I use 6" cotton?swabs dipped in 99% alcohol and clean the bearing as best you can.? Rotate the dial during this process.? You will need 6 or 7 swabs in all likelihood to eliminate most of the old grease.? Use the whole?lithium sparingly.? One or two VERY small dabs will be enough.? Use the stick end of the cotton swabs?you just used to clean the bearing out.
?
73
Peter
VE7PS
|
On 2023-11-23 17:07, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io wrote: Slipping tuning usually, in the C Line, is due to a hardened bushing
on the main shaft. Today, that will mean cutting some high pressure
fuel line to precise dimensions to couple the knob to the skirt. *** I think that's happening on my TR7. The bushing is hard as a rock. I didn't know it was supposed to be soft :). With a working digital display, it's not THAT big a deal, but still... Sounds like an easy little project. - Jerry, KF6VB Most times, slippage of tuning
Is due to the slippage of that bushing.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent from Proton Mail [1] for iOS
On Thu, Nov 23, 2023 at 18:18, VE7PS <ve7ps@...> wrote:
Gordon:
By all means yes! Many of my Drakes have had exactly this level of
cleaning, though many have had the full removal and disassembly too,
which is always better. That said, the most common problem in the
C-line is gumming up of the ball race at the front of the PTO.
Acetone would likely work as well....but I like to use the 99%
alcohol and have stuck with that for years. It's easier to breathe
than acetone! Easier on the hands too.
In order to avoid removal and disassembly, I douod do the following;
1) Remove the tuning knob and sponge rubber bushing on the front.
Remove the top cabinet cover, the dial light shroud and blue/white
plastic lenses. Set the dial pilot lamp off to the side. Don't lose
the 3 screws/locks and spacers!
2) Put a thick soft cloth down and position the radio FACE DOWN. You
may have to get inventive to do this - just be careful of the front
panel.
3) Using your chive of solvent and some 6" swabs if you have them,
swab out as much of the grease in the bearing race as you can. You
should be able to get rid of almost all of it. Some fluid may leak
down the front of the PTO shaft and out the front. This will take 6
or 8 swabs to do this, at least.
4) Swab off the threaded tuning rod in the PTO, as well as the "one
sided tuning fork" and shaft that it rides along.
5) Swipe your bottle of sewing machine oil from your spouse. Drop
ONE drop on the threaded rod and run the PTO end to end a few times.
Swab off any excess oil, but do not wipe the threaded shaft clean of
the new oil. Using a small stick like a piece of a 6" swab stick,
drop in a gob or two of grease. I have used white lithium but have
switched to copper-infused grease of late and it seems to work well.
Clean up any excess grease leaving only what's in the bearing race.
6) Turn the radio so the front panel is upright. Drop ONE DROP of
the sewing machine oil on the 1/4" steel tuning shaft where it runs
into the brass bushing. Wipe off any excess. Work that in by tuning
the PTO back and forth. Replace the sponge bushing, dial skirt and
knob. Press in on the knob, then tighten it.
I just did this with an RR-2....sort of an SPR-4 with built in FS-4
synthesizer, and it worked well. The gears were all clean to start
with but removing the front panel on htis radio is much more
involved than an SPR-4 and I did not want to get into that.
Good luck! Let me know how it goes.
73
Peter
VE7PS
6
On Thu, Nov 23, 2023 at 2:25?PM Gordon, KJ6IKT <gfsmith@...>
wrote:
Hi Peter,
I had a question for you. I know this is a semi old thread, but ran
into this exact PTO issue on my SPR-4. The PTO bearing area is
slipping/gumming up and I believe it needs to be cleaned. Would you
see any issue with using acetone vs. the 99% alcohol to clean the
balls/ball race with the PTO still installed? The rest of the PTO
gears look pristine and I wanted to try the "in place" cleaning
before I go to the PTO removal and clean process.
73, Gordon KJ6IKT
On Sun, Jul 16, 2023 at 03:38 PM, VE7PS wrote:
Steve:
I agree 100% with your theory on migration of the lighter components
of the bearing grease.
I have been using white lithium grease on the ball race for years.
I've never had to go back and re-clean one, and re-grease, though
there are so many Drakes here none of them get "over-used".
Removing the front panel just makes so much sense and allows proper
cleaning of the Preselector tuning drive, all the pots, etc. I can
have the front panel removed and the PTO out in 10 minutes or less.
Great time to clean and re-whiten the line on the knobs too! Front
panel gets cleaned then a couple of coats of Pledge with a soft
cloth polish between the 2 coats and again after the 2nd coat. I
wouldn't even dream of cleaning a PTO gearset without removing it
from the rig.
That said....you CAN do a pretty good job of cleaning the front PTO
bearing without removing the PTO. You do need to remove the lamp
hood and dial light socket. I use 6" cotton swabs dipped in 99%
alcohol and clean the bearing as best you can. Rotate the dial
during this process. You will need 6 or 7 swabs in all likelihood to
eliminate most of the old grease. Use the whole lithium sparingly.
One or two VERY small dabs will be enough. Use the stick end of the
cotton swabs you just used to clean the bearing out.
73
Peter
VE7PS Links:
------
[1]
[2] /g/DRAKE-RADIO/message/74690
[3] /mt/100184156/243852
[4] /g/DRAKE-RADIO/post
[5] /g/DRAKE-RADIO/editsub/243852
[6] /g/DRAKE-RADIO/leave/12260778/243852/767576506/xyzzy
|
The TR7/TR5 use a different diameter bushing from the C Line but the same thing can happen there. My first TR7 actually had the opposite problem: the bushing had turned into a gooey, mushy coupling. Automotive fuel hose works equally well on these.?
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Fri, Nov 24, 2023 at 10:10 AM, jerry-KF6VB < jerry@...> wrote: On 2023-11-23 17:07, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io wrote:
>
> Slipping tuning usually, in the C Line, is due to a hardened bushing
> on the main shaft. Today, that will mean cutting some high pressure
> fuel line to precise dimensions to couple the knob to the skirt.
*** I think that's happening on my TR7. The bushing is hard as a rock.
I didn't know it was supposed to be soft :). With a working digital
display, it's not THAT big a deal, but still...
Sounds like an easy little project.
- Jerry, KF6VB
>
> Most times, slippage of tuning
> Is due to the slippage of that bushing.
>
> 73,
>
> Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
>
> Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
>
> Sent from Proton Mail [1] for iOS
>
> On Thu, Nov 23, 2023 at 18:18, VE7PS <ve7ps@...> wrote:
>
>> Gordon:
>>
>> By all means yes! Many of my Drakes have had exactly this level of
>> cleaning, though many have had the full removal and disassembly too,
>> which is always better. That said, the most common problem in the
>> C-line is gumming up of the ball race at the front of the PTO.
>>
>> Acetone would likely work as well....but I like to use the 99%
>> alcohol and have stuck with that for years. It's easier to breathe
>> than acetone! Easier on the hands too.
>>
>> In order to avoid removal and disassembly, I douod do the following;
>>
>> 1) Remove the tuning knob and sponge rubber bushing on the front.
>> Remove the top cabinet cover, the dial light shroud and blue/white
>> plastic lenses. Set the dial pilot lamp off to the side. Don't lose
>> the 3 screws/locks and spacers!
>>
>> 2) Put a thick soft cloth down and position the radio FACE DOWN. You
>> may have to get inventive to do this - just be careful of the front
>> panel.
>>
>> 3) Using your chive of solvent and some 6" swabs if you have them,
>> swab out as much of the grease in the bearing race as you can. You
>> should be able to get rid of almost all of it. Some fluid may leak
>> down the front of the PTO shaft and out the front. This will take 6
>> or 8 swabs to do this, at least.
>>
>> 4) Swab off the threaded tuning rod in the PTO, as well as the "one
>> sided tuning fork" and shaft that it rides along.
>>
>> 5) Swipe your bottle of sewing machine oil from your spouse. Drop
>> ONE drop on the threaded rod and run the PTO end to end a few times.
>> Swab off any excess oil, but do not wipe the threaded shaft clean of
>> the new oil. Using a small stick like a piece of a 6" swab stick,
>> drop in a gob or two of grease. I have used white lithium but have
>> switched to copper-infused grease of late and it seems to work well.
>> Clean up any excess grease leaving only what's in the bearing race.
>>
>> 6) Turn the radio so the front panel is upright. Drop ONE DROP of
>> the sewing machine oil on the 1/4" steel tuning shaft where it runs
>> into the brass bushing. Wipe off any excess. Work that in by tuning
>> the PTO back and forth. Replace the sponge bushing, dial skirt and
>> knob. Press in on the knob, then tighten it.
>>
>> I just did this with an RR-2....sort of an SPR-4 with built in FS-4
>> synthesizer, and it worked well. The gears were all clean to start
>> with but removing the front panel on htis radio is much more
>> involved than an SPR-4 and I did not want to get into that.
>>
>> Good luck! Let me know how it goes.
>>
>> 73
>> Peter
>> VE7PS
>>
>> 6
>>
>> On Thu, Nov 23, 2023 at 2:25?PM Gordon, KJ6IKT <gfsmith@...>
>> wrote:
>> Hi Peter,
>> I had a question for you. I know this is a semi old thread, but ran
>> into this exact PTO issue on my SPR-4. The PTO bearing area is
>> slipping/gumming up and I believe it needs to be cleaned. Would you
>> see any issue with using acetone vs. the 99% alcohol to clean the
>> balls/ball race with the PTO still installed? The rest of the PTO
>> gears look pristine and I wanted to try the "in place" cleaning
>> before I go to the PTO removal and clean process.
>>
>> 73, Gordon KJ6IKT
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 16, 2023 at 03:38 PM, VE7PS wrote:
>>
>> Steve:
>>
>> I agree 100% with your theory on migration of the lighter components
>> of the bearing grease.
>>
>> I have been using white lithium grease on the ball race for years.
>> I've never had to go back and re-clean one, and re-grease, though
>> there are so many Drakes here none of them get "over-used".
>>
>> Removing the front panel just makes so much sense and allows proper
>> cleaning of the Preselector tuning drive, all the pots, etc. I can
>> have the front panel removed and the PTO out in 10 minutes or less.
>> Great time to clean and re-whiten the line on the knobs too! Front
>> panel gets cleaned then a couple of coats of Pledge with a soft
>> cloth polish between the 2 coats and again after the 2nd coat. I
>> wouldn't even dream of cleaning a PTO gearset without removing it
>> from the rig.
>>
>> That said....you CAN do a pretty good job of cleaning the front PTO
>> bearing without removing the PTO. You do need to remove the lamp
>> hood and dial light socket. I use 6" cotton swabs dipped in 99%
>> alcohol and clean the bearing as best you can. Rotate the dial
>> during this process. You will need 6 or 7 swabs in all likelihood to
>> eliminate most of the old grease. Use the whole lithium sparingly.
>> One or two VERY small dabs will be enough. Use the stick end of the
>> cotton swabs you just used to clean the bearing out.
>>
>> 73
>> Peter
>> VE7PS
>
>
>
> Links:
> ------
> [1] https://proton.me/mail/home
> [2] /g/DRAKE-RADIO/message/74690
> [3] /mt/100184156/243852
> [4] /g/DRAKE-RADIO/post
> [5] /g/DRAKE-RADIO/editsub/243852
> [6]
> /g/DRAKE-RADIO/leave/12260778/243852/767576506/xyzzy
|
It is rare to find a knob bushing that has NOT deteriorated in these radios. 73 -Jim NU0C On Fri, 24 Nov 2023 07:10:02 -0800 "jerry-KF6VB" <jerry@...> wrote: On 2023-11-23 17:07, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io wrote:
Slipping tuning usually, in the C Line, is due to a hardened bushing
on the main shaft. Today, that will mean cutting some high pressure
fuel line to precise dimensions to couple the knob to the skirt.
*** I think that's happening on my TR7. The bushing is hard as a rock.
I didn't know it was supposed to be soft :). With a working digital
display, it's not THAT big a deal, but still...
Sounds like an easy little project.
- Jerry, KF6VB
Most times, slippage of tuning
Is due to the slippage of that bushing.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent from Proton Mail [1] for iOS
On Thu, Nov 23, 2023 at 18:18, VE7PS <ve7ps@...> wrote:
Gordon:
By all means yes! Many of my Drakes have had exactly this level of
cleaning, though many have had the full removal and disassembly too,
which is always better. That said, the most common problem in the
C-line is gumming up of the ball race at the front of the PTO.
Acetone would likely work as well....but I like to use the 99%
alcohol and have stuck with that for years. It's easier to breathe
than acetone! Easier on the hands too.
In order to avoid removal and disassembly, I douod do the following;
1) Remove the tuning knob and sponge rubber bushing on the front.
Remove the top cabinet cover, the dial light shroud and blue/white
plastic lenses. Set the dial pilot lamp off to the side. Don't lose
the 3 screws/locks and spacers!
2) Put a thick soft cloth down and position the radio FACE DOWN. You
may have to get inventive to do this - just be careful of the front
panel.
3) Using your chive of solvent and some 6" swabs if you have them,
swab out as much of the grease in the bearing race as you can. You
should be able to get rid of almost all of it. Some fluid may leak
down the front of the PTO shaft and out the front. This will take 6
or 8 swabs to do this, at least.
4) Swab off the threaded tuning rod in the PTO, as well as the "one
sided tuning fork" and shaft that it rides along.
5) Swipe your bottle of sewing machine oil from your spouse. Drop
ONE drop on the threaded rod and run the PTO end to end a few times.
Swab off any excess oil, but do not wipe the threaded shaft clean of
the new oil. Using a small stick like a piece of a 6" swab stick,
drop in a gob or two of grease. I have used white lithium but have
switched to copper-infused grease of late and it seems to work well.
Clean up any excess grease leaving only what's in the bearing race.
6) Turn the radio so the front panel is upright. Drop ONE DROP of
the sewing machine oil on the 1/4" steel tuning shaft where it runs
into the brass bushing. Wipe off any excess. Work that in by tuning
the PTO back and forth. Replace the sponge bushing, dial skirt and
knob. Press in on the knob, then tighten it.
I just did this with an RR-2....sort of an SPR-4 with built in FS-4
synthesizer, and it worked well. The gears were all clean to start
with but removing the front panel on htis radio is much more
involved than an SPR-4 and I did not want to get into that.
Good luck! Let me know how it goes.
73
Peter
VE7PS
6
On Thu, Nov 23, 2023 at 2:25?PM Gordon, KJ6IKT <gfsmith@...>
wrote:
Hi Peter,
I had a question for you. I know this is a semi old thread, but ran
into this exact PTO issue on my SPR-4. The PTO bearing area is
slipping/gumming up and I believe it needs to be cleaned. Would you
see any issue with using acetone vs. the 99% alcohol to clean the
balls/ball race with the PTO still installed? The rest of the PTO
gears look pristine and I wanted to try the "in place" cleaning
before I go to the PTO removal and clean process.
73, Gordon KJ6IKT
On Sun, Jul 16, 2023 at 03:38 PM, VE7PS wrote:
Steve:
I agree 100% with your theory on migration of the lighter components
of the bearing grease.
I have been using white lithium grease on the ball race for years.
I've never had to go back and re-clean one, and re-grease, though
there are so many Drakes here none of them get "over-used".
Removing the front panel just makes so much sense and allows proper
cleaning of the Preselector tuning drive, all the pots, etc. I can
have the front panel removed and the PTO out in 10 minutes or less.
Great time to clean and re-whiten the line on the knobs too! Front
panel gets cleaned then a couple of coats of Pledge with a soft
cloth polish between the 2 coats and again after the 2nd coat. I
wouldn't even dream of cleaning a PTO gearset without removing it
from the rig.
That said....you CAN do a pretty good job of cleaning the front PTO
bearing without removing the PTO. You do need to remove the lamp
hood and dial light socket. I use 6" cotton swabs dipped in 99%
alcohol and clean the bearing as best you can. Rotate the dial
during this process. You will need 6 or 7 swabs in all likelihood to
eliminate most of the old grease. Use the whole lithium sparingly.
One or two VERY small dabs will be enough. Use the stick end of the
cotton swabs you just used to clean the bearing out.
73
Peter
VE7PS
Links:
------
[1]
[2] /g/DRAKE-RADIO/message/74690
[3] /mt/100184156/243852
[4] /g/DRAKE-RADIO/post
[5] /g/DRAKE-RADIO/editsub/243852
[6]
/g/DRAKE-RADIO/leave/12260778/243852/767576506/xyzzy
|
Jim Shorney