开云体育

Hi everyone Well after a day checking those three pins, fitting? 5mm blue LED's to the PTO and meter, fitting it all back together still a problem. looks like segment a if I read the schematic

Hi all. Thanks for the fine info and offers.? The original plan was to use an old Heathkit unit I had? but? I've managed to obtain a 2-BQ with one fitted. So the connector is no longer required.

##? ?You won't see any amps other than drake, using a .82 ohm? @? 2 watt? resistor.....for a... 'hv? fuse'.? ?New, correctly sized? HV? fuses are cheap, and meet? ?UL /? CSA?

John, Thank you for the follow-up report. 73, Michael Smith, N4KZO

Sounds like a good idea. Please post a pic sometime if you get a chance. 73 -Jim NU0C "Gary Follett" <xntrick1948@...> wrote:

That’s the term I was looking for, fish paper. Drake may not have widely implemented that ECO but I have had several TR7’s that did have it and I installed it on every one that came through here.

Well, the mystery is solved. ?Once I pumped a modulated signal in at the ant term and heard the tone in the speaker, I knew this stage was working. I suspected the meter was loading the osc when

Hi Mike, The loose left wire is for segment F. The center wire is for segment A. The right wire is for segment B. Suggest re-soldering all three wires. You can use an ohmmeter to check for continuity

I’m currently using a Nye Viking MB-V-A. Built like a tank and available for around $300. I’ve been using it to drive balanced antennas with the L7 and it takes everything I can give it. Steve

I had one of these years ago. I remember on 160 that it wouldn’t do legal limit — about 800W before it arced. Good tuner, though. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a

Hi Fred I was going to buy a TR7 back in the day, got warned off, spent more money and bought a Triumph Stag. After three engines I sold it and bought a Lotus Sunbeam. Best car I ever had, Kind

Hi Roger Thanks for that, I just checked and looking at the board from the front, there is a bad solder joint on the left wire link of the three. Just resoldered it, it came off in my hand. Fitting

Hahaha I bought a blue Triumph TR7 like that but a hard top in 1985 with my ill gotten gains from my first job overseas AND I bought a Drake B line. The previous owner had upgraded to a Drake TR7 73

Hi Ryan No luck so far with a replacement. Bernie suggested that I Fab one from His me Depot material. That’s a possibility. If you have time, please take a look. I would gladly reimburse for the

I posted a link the Lew McCoy's article in an earlier message. And here are some shots of the homebrew unit I have, likely build from guidance found in that article. 73 -Jim NU0C "Ralph Mowery via

Any Luck?? I have some parts units in the garage.? I can look tomorrow after work RyanN7QJ On Saturday, March 20, 2021, 11:50:22 AM PDT, kq2q <kq2q@...> wrote: Hello All Looking for a

Hi Mike, Your two missing MSD LEDs segment signals, F and A, are both carried by the wire jumpers to the top of the display board. Check the continuity from the F and A cathode segments back to the

Murch did not try to claim it was his design but was a copy of the Ultimate Transmatch? by Lewis McCoy. Murch just put it into production and there were several versions of it over the years. While I

And here is a pic of my Murch. The new knobs nicely hide the holes from the mounting of the cheap junk verniers. 73 -Jim NU0C "Jim Shorney" <jshorney@...> wrote:

Of course, but I did not want to characterize them as CB connectors. You will find a 2 pin version on the back of the R7. 73 -Jim NU0C "Jeffrey Angus" <jdangus@...> wrote: