Re: Large amount of Drake gear in latest Schulman web auction
Everything I have purchased through them has been as good or better than advertised. ?I was passing through Missouri one time and stopped in. ?Great guy, his auction service has really blossomed. ?Shipping experience has been the same as others have described. ?Got a pleasant surprise one time on an R4C a couple of years ago before he got so savvy, the radio came with all the Sherwood mods. ?A call to Bob confirmed the serial number had been through his shop. ?Lucky!
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Well guess us old farts. lol.got my ticket in 62 at age 15 now pushing 75.collected and restoration for the past 55 yrs.now getting time to let more go.?
But just my guess.73.Tony wa4jqs?
Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: "Myron Babcock via " < kl7yy.radio@...>
Date: 3/26/21 14:32 (GMT-05:00)
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] Large amount of Drake gear in latest Schulman web auction
Where does all this classic?radio equipment come from?
Myron
KL7YY
On Fri, Mar 26, 2021 at 11:54 AM wa2cky < bob.groh@...> wrote:
John, on the shipping question, Dave covers that somewhat in the preamble to the auction, in the first couple of pages. He has arrangements with a local shipping place (UPS??) and uses them. I would drop him a line to find out all the particulars. I am local
so I just drive over!? Not that I buy much since I am already well stocked with the projects!? But, bottom line, check on the auction site and then contact Mr. Schulman with any further questions.?
73
Bob Groh, WA2CKY
|
Re: Drake Transmitting Convertors
Great, entertaining and educational thread. ?Yes, I am committing some time to building the FS-B as well. ?Thanks everyone for contributing to the hobby and the Drake community.
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On Apr 4, 2021, at 11:13 AM, Jim Shorney < jshorney@...> wrote:
My usual response to that is "no, you are off MY frequency". Then if I am not in a hurry I will follow it up with something like "the manufacturer of your radio has kindly provided a large knob for the express purpose of tuning signals. It is called "variable frequency oscillator", and for good reason. You may want to learn how to use it". I am bemused by the modern op's obsession with exact frequency. They have to be on the .000, and they freak out if they can't log it usually because their computer control failed. In the worst cases they don't know how to work the rig and make contacts if the computer control breaks. With very little knowledge of the art of radio or troubleshooting skills, they run to the internet for help. Sad. In a bad day scenario where one is expected to just get a signal on the air and start passing traffic as soon as possible they probably wouldn't have a clue. I can just see someone standing in the comms tent with a CAT cable in his hand and a confused look on his face, wondering where to plug it in... Which is why I think that if FD wants to maintain any semblance of being an emergency communications drill they should ban CAT control and FT/JT modes. But I digress. 73 -Jim NU0C On Sun, 04 Apr 2021 00:03:01 -0700 "Rick" < myr748@...> wrote: I am still amazed when I'm talking with other boat-anchor types on the low bands and someone invariably breaks in and tells US we're "Off Frequency" I always ask the guy I am talking to if I am on his frequency and he says? "of course"
Then we tell the newcomer that he's off frequency.? It's still amazing that some licensed hams cannot seem to tune an SSB signal correctly!
|
Re: Drake Transmitting Convertors
My usual response to that is "no, you are off MY frequency". Then if I am not in a hurry I will follow it up with something like "the manufacturer of your radio has kindly provided a large knob for the express purpose of tuning signals. It is called "variable frequency oscillator", and for good reason. You may want to learn how to use it". I am bemused by the modern op's obsession with exact frequency. They have to be on the .000, and they freak out if they can't log it usually because their computer control failed. In the worst cases they don't know how to work the rig and make contacts if the computer control breaks. With very little knowledge of the art of radio or troubleshooting skills, they run to the internet for help. Sad. In a bad day scenario where one is expected to just get a signal on the air and start passing traffic as soon as possible they probably wouldn't have a clue. I can just see someone standing in the comms tent with a CAT cable in his hand and a confused look on his face, wondering where to plug it in... Which is why I think that if FD wants to maintain any semblance of being an emergency communications drill they should ban CAT control and FT/JT modes. But I digress. 73 -Jim NU0C On Sun, 04 Apr 2021 00:03:01 -0700 "Rick" <myr748@...> wrote: I am still amazed when I'm talking with other boat-anchor types on the low bands and someone invariably breaks in and tells US we're "Off Frequency" I always ask the guy I am talking to if I am on his frequency and he says? "of course"
Then we tell the newcomer that he's off frequency.? It's still amazing that some licensed hams cannot seem to tune an SSB signal correctly!
|
Re: Drake Transmitting Convertors
Thanks? everyone for the info on them.? I have to assume that after warm up they'll be stable enough for SSB use on 6 and 2.
Dave, I thought the 8643 might be hard to find but I found 3 of them on eBay (NOS) for around $20 or so.? I now have 5? so I don't think I'm going to run out anytime soon!
I don't think I'll need a pre-amp for SC-6 but I'm sure the SC-2 will probably need a little help. ......if the noise increases when the antenna is connected, improving the front end sensitivity doesn't help a lot.
I also don't think anyone could reasonably expect to use these things on any digital mode any more than you might use the C-line for digital. BUT, I have to say that I did use my Drake C-line (bought it new)? on teletype in the 70's? it worked fine and didn't drift enough to prevent using 170hz shift.
I am still amazed when I'm talking with other boat-anchor types on the low bands and someone invariably breaks in and tells US we're "Off Frequency" I always ask the guy I am talking to if I am on his frequency and he says? "of course"
Then we tell the newcomer that he's off frequency.? It's still amazing that some licensed hams cannot seem to tune an SSB signal correctly!
|
Myron,
? What are you asking for your MN-2000?
Regards, Patrick NG7I
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On Apr 3, 2021, at 11:22, Jim VE7RF <jim.thom@...> wrote:
?IF the ant fell apart, or bad balum, or connector at ant,? wrong ant, no ant,? selected wrong or no ant? on a remote switch box,? and? peak V? could easily arc and damage? a? wafer.? ?Or a? deadh short, or? wide open.
This is why a? high swr shut down? circuit? needs to be implemented, at least for...soft faults, like? swr? exceeding a given threshold.?? A? GDT ...gas? discharge tube.... or a hb? ?adjustable spark gap would take care of any? hard? faults, like excess voltage...and protect the switch? in the MN-2000.??
A? dead short? would not result in excess? voltage? ?but? excess current...which? will trip the high swr? circuit.? ?A? wide open? would arc the? gdp, or? spark gap..and then the? high swr? circuit would shut the xcvr and amp off? line asap.?
Jim? ?VE7RF
|
IF the ant fell apart, or bad balum, or connector at ant,? wrong ant, no ant,? selected wrong or no ant? on a remote switch box,? and? peak V? could easily arc and damage? a? wafer.? ?Or a? deadh short, or? wide open.
This is why a? high swr shut down? circuit? needs to be implemented, at least for...soft faults, like? swr? exceeding a given threshold.?? A? GDT ...gas? discharge tube.... or a hb? ?adjustable spark gap would take care of any? hard? faults, like excess voltage...and protect the switch? in the MN-2000.??
A? dead short? would not result in excess? voltage? ?but? excess current...which? will trip the high swr? circuit.? ?A? wide open? would arc the? gdp, or? spark gap..and then the? high swr? circuit would shut the xcvr and amp off? line asap.?
Jim? ?VE7RF
|
I have a good looking and working MN-2000 with the original manual for sale locally here in Colorado Springs/Denver area.? If I don't sell it within the next few weeks I will advertise it for sale here and other?ham websites and ship.??
Myron KL7YY/0
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On Sat, Apr 3, 2021 at 10:46 AM Paul Kraemer < elespe@...> wrote:
Thanks for the encouragement Peter.? Yes the Drake switch was
back to back on one wafer, nothing shorting about it, a standard
30 deg index.? I used a switch with heavier contacts and two
wafers in parallel to achieve the SAME thing.? It is one of those
rotary switches with up to 6 positions available depending where
the lock pin is inserted.? Not rocket science or brain surgery but
a bit of time required removing the old with it's heavy wires and
replacing it with the new and it's heavy wires.? More than a
repair, I prefer cosmetically transparent product improvement.
I originally bought the tuner broken but at a great price knowing
what I was getting.? I rebuilt the broken and stripped the cabinet
and repainted several times til I got it right to where it looked
just like my other 4 line station gear.? I actually had it sold to
someone looking for "like new" before it was done and he was
extremely pleased with it.
Reminds me I have a Heath 2060A that needs the same repair.
Paul K0UYA
On 4/3/2021 10:03 AM, VE7PS wrote:
Hi all;
I'm not going to pretend I'm on expert on switches....that's for
sure.....but the shorting switch appears to be S3, the
bandswitch.? S4, the Function switch, shows the two-pole
non-shorting type, but on one ceramic wafer.? There are solder
tabs on both the front and rear of that switch, which are folded
over and soldered in parallel with the front tabs, but I cannot
recall if there is actually another set of contacts on the rear of
the original switch.?
In Paul's, K0UYA, S4 repair he uses two wafer sections of a
non-shorting 5 or 6 wafer switch and wires them in parallel.? With
the unused wafers removed, that leaves enough shaft coming out of
the "back" of the switch, now facing forward in the MN-2000,? to
connect to the switch shaft running to the front panel.?
Brilliant, Paul!
The switch detents appear to be 30 degrees apart to me, with stops
at about 10, 11, 12, 1 and 2 o'clock on the dial.
If anyone has a spare decent looking front panel for an MN-2000, I
could use one.? Can purchase or trade other front panels for
Drakes, as have several.
73
Peter
VE7PS
On 2021-04-02 8:25 p.m., Gary Follett
wrote:
From the schematic, I see that one section is a 5 position
shorting switch. The other is a two section rather common 5
position non-shorting switch.
While it is unlikely you will find a wafer that
has this same combination, it is not unreasonable to use two
separate wafers, separated by suitable spacers, to make up a
replacement switch. There is plenty of room in there to do
this and you will end up with a better switch in the end.
Once I can walk downstairs again after my
hamstring surgery, a few more weeks, I may be able to find
both wafers as I have a box full of these ceramic switch
wafers.
Gary
W0DVN?
On Apr 2, 2021, at 8:49 PM, Paul Kraemer
< elespe@...> wrote:
Nice to see my efforts are remembered!?
Peter has described the fix precisely (probably
better than I could!).? It was a good repair in that
it left the tuner with switch contacts that appeared
to me to be twice the amperage as original and of
course transparent repair when completed.? The only
"special" part was making the shaft coupling which
had a radial offset in the fixing screws to
accommodate the flats on the shafts not aligning.? I
have pictures of start to finish somewhere if they
can't be found.? I think the biggest cause of
failure of the switch in the Drake and other tuners
is operating into the wrong or no load then
switching hot to correct that.
Paul K0UYA
On 4/2/2021 6:09 PM,
VE7PS wrote:
Patrick:
A while back Paul Kraemer, K0UYA, posted some pics
that I believe are posted on this group that shows a
repair job he did on that switch using a 5 position,
5 or 6 pole switch from Russia that is still
available on E-bay for (I believe) $18.? You mount
it backwards as I recall so the front of the switch
is mounted on the rear, after removing all but two
of the wafers.? That leaves you plenty of shaft to
connect to the rest of the shaft going to the front
panel control.? You will have to make up an offset
shaft coupling to connect the two shafts and retain
the correct indication.
I have an MN-2000 here that is in need of that same
repair.
If it is not there in the files or pics section, get
back to me as I have them saved too.?
73
Peter
VE7PS
On 2021-04-02 3:36
p.m., Patrick P wrote:
Here are some pics (if
this will work from my phone)....
Patrick
NG7I
<image.jpg><image.jpg>
?Gentlemen,
? I got an MN-2000 tuner off eBay last month
and finally had time to test it.? The knob in
the upper left ( Alternate / Match 1 / Match 2
/ Direct 1 / Direct 2 ) was seized so upon
further inspection it appears this unit was
hit by lightning.? Does anyone have an extra
rotary switch for this tuner?? It's frozen in
Match 1 and the rotary contacts were vaporized
/ welded together.? I would really like to
keep this old soldier online if possible.
Regards and 73's
Patrick
NG7I
|
All - I have had very good luck with this EBay vendor:???
If you put the switch in its zero position, Photograph the front and back, and then provide the dimensions of the mounting holes, he may be able to provide what you need.
He got me a wafer so that I could replace the phoenelis one on the L2 coil of my DX-60 bandswitch which broke after 50 years.
Hope this helps.? 73 - Ken, K6CTW
|
Thanks for the encouragement Peter.? Yes the Drake switch was
back to back on one wafer, nothing shorting about it, a standard
30 deg index.? I used a switch with heavier contacts and two
wafers in parallel to achieve the SAME thing.? It is one of those
rotary switches with up to 6 positions available depending where
the lock pin is inserted.? Not rocket science or brain surgery but
a bit of time required removing the old with it's heavy wires and
replacing it with the new and it's heavy wires.? More than a
repair, I prefer cosmetically transparent product improvement.
I originally bought the tuner broken but at a great price knowing
what I was getting.? I rebuilt the broken and stripped the cabinet
and repainted several times til I got it right to where it looked
just like my other 4 line station gear.? I actually had it sold to
someone looking for "like new" before it was done and he was
extremely pleased with it.
Reminds me I have a Heath 2060A that needs the same repair.
Paul K0UYA
On 4/3/2021 10:03 AM, VE7PS wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi all;
I'm not going to pretend I'm on expert on switches....that's for
sure.....but the shorting switch appears to be S3, the
bandswitch.? S4, the Function switch, shows the two-pole
non-shorting type, but on one ceramic wafer.? There are solder
tabs on both the front and rear of that switch, which are folded
over and soldered in parallel with the front tabs, but I cannot
recall if there is actually another set of contacts on the rear of
the original switch.?
In Paul's, K0UYA, S4 repair he uses two wafer sections of a
non-shorting 5 or 6 wafer switch and wires them in parallel.? With
the unused wafers removed, that leaves enough shaft coming out of
the "back" of the switch, now facing forward in the MN-2000,? to
connect to the switch shaft running to the front panel.?
Brilliant, Paul!
The switch detents appear to be 30 degrees apart to me, with stops
at about 10, 11, 12, 1 and 2 o'clock on the dial.
If anyone has a spare decent looking front panel for an MN-2000, I
could use one.? Can purchase or trade other front panels for
Drakes, as have several.
73
Peter
VE7PS
On 2021-04-02 8:25 p.m., Gary Follett
wrote:
From the schematic, I see that one section is a 5 position
shorting switch. The other is a two section rather common 5
position non-shorting switch.
While it is unlikely you will find a wafer that
has this same combination, it is not unreasonable to use two
separate wafers, separated by suitable spacers, to make up a
replacement switch. There is plenty of room in there to do
this and you will end up with a better switch in the end.
Once I can walk downstairs again after my
hamstring surgery, a few more weeks, I may be able to find
both wafers as I have a box full of these ceramic switch
wafers.
Gary
W0DVN?
On Apr 2, 2021, at 8:49 PM, Paul Kraemer
< elespe@...> wrote:
Nice to see my efforts are remembered!?
Peter has described the fix precisely (probably
better than I could!).? It was a good repair in that
it left the tuner with switch contacts that appeared
to me to be twice the amperage as original and of
course transparent repair when completed.? The only
"special" part was making the shaft coupling which
had a radial offset in the fixing screws to
accommodate the flats on the shafts not aligning.? I
have pictures of start to finish somewhere if they
can't be found.? I think the biggest cause of
failure of the switch in the Drake and other tuners
is operating into the wrong or no load then
switching hot to correct that.
Paul K0UYA
On 4/2/2021 6:09 PM,
VE7PS wrote:
Patrick:
A while back Paul Kraemer, K0UYA, posted some pics
that I believe are posted on this group that shows a
repair job he did on that switch using a 5 position,
5 or 6 pole switch from Russia that is still
available on E-bay for (I believe) $18.? You mount
it backwards as I recall so the front of the switch
is mounted on the rear, after removing all but two
of the wafers.? That leaves you plenty of shaft to
connect to the rest of the shaft going to the front
panel control.? You will have to make up an offset
shaft coupling to connect the two shafts and retain
the correct indication.
I have an MN-2000 here that is in need of that same
repair.
If it is not there in the files or pics section, get
back to me as I have them saved too.?
73
Peter
VE7PS
On 2021-04-02 3:36
p.m., Patrick P wrote:
Here are some pics (if
this will work from my phone)....
Patrick
NG7I
<image.jpg><image.jpg>
?Gentlemen,
? I got an MN-2000 tuner off eBay last month
and finally had time to test it.? The knob in
the upper left ( Alternate / Match 1 / Match 2
/ Direct 1 / Direct 2 ) was seized so upon
further inspection it appears this unit was
hit by lightning.? Does anyone have an extra
rotary switch for this tuner?? It's frozen in
Match 1 and the rotary contacts were vaporized
/ welded together.? I would really like to
keep this old soldier online if possible.
Regards and 73's
Patrick
NG7I
|
Patrick, I'm happy that you were fortunate to buy from an honest seller.? I think that you did the right thing.? Sometimes, a piece of equipment has been so damaged or bodged that it's not worth trying to make it right.
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with Secure Email.
‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ Original Message ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐
On Friday, April 2, 2021 10:43 PM, Patrick P <sbus1313@...> wrote:
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Nope, I paid top dollar so for that reason I’m returning it for a refund. ?He was willing to refund me the cost of parts but comparing this to the schematic, I’m learning that what I was looking at was someone else’s repair. ?The way they had incorrectly wired it likely caused the sw to flash over and melt itself. ?If the unit took that much divergent energy, what else could’ve been compromised? ?Thankfully the guy I purchased it from is quite gracious and is willing to work with me. ?Alas, I’m back in the market for an MN-2000… anyone?
Patrick
NG7I
On Apr 2, 2021, at 6:59 PM, n4buq < n4buq@...> wrote:
Anyone know the dimensions and thread size(s) needed for that ceramic standoff. ?I have some that look like they might be close and would be happy to pass one along if it will fit.
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, April 2, 2021 5:36:34 PM
Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] MN-2000 part needed
Here are some pics (if this will work from my phone)....
Patrick
NG7I
On Apr 2, 2021, at 14:46, Patrick P via
?Gentlemen,
?I got an MN-2000 tuner off eBay last month and finally had time to test
?it. ?The knob in the upper left ( Alternate / Match 1 / Match 2 / Direct
?1 / Direct 2 ) was seized so upon further inspection it appears this
?unit was hit by lightning. ?Does anyone have an extra rotary switch for
?this tuner? ?It's frozen in Match 1 and the rotary contacts were
?vaporized / welded together. ?I would really like to keep this old
?soldier online if possible.
Regards and 73's
Patrick
NG7I
|
distorted receive audio in TR4
TUrned the radio on the other day and receive audio is a bit distorted.? Even the calibrator has some warbly distortion.? Any run into this?? I am thinking I lost a cap somewhere... All tube are good, hooked up the scope for troubleshooting last night.
THanks
Greg
|
Excellent points made.
I have been using the spreadsheet method for years. ?
Updating the spreadsheet once a quarter is certainly better than never.
All my family members know the location of the latest printout of the spreadsheet which includes the date and time on the header.
The important thing to remember is to regularly update the present value of your equipment. ?Some values go down considerably over the years such as analogue scopes while others go up in value. ?
There are companies what will take the whole lot, catalogue everything including taking pictures and sell online. That removes the burden for your family. -- 73, Bernie. VE3FWF
|
Hi all;
I'm not going to pretend I'm on expert on switches....that's for
sure.....but the shorting switch appears to be S3, the bandswitch.?
S4, the Function switch, shows the two-pole non-shorting type, but
on one ceramic wafer.? There are solder tabs on both the front and
rear of that switch, which are folded over and soldered in parallel
with the front tabs, but I cannot recall if there is actually
another set of contacts on the rear of the original switch.?
In Paul's, K0UYA, S4 repair he uses two wafer sections of a
non-shorting 5 or 6 wafer switch and wires them in parallel.? With
the unused wafers removed, that leaves enough shaft coming out of
the "back" of the switch, now facing forward in the MN-2000,? to
connect to the switch shaft running to the front panel.? Brilliant,
Paul!
The switch detents appear to be 30 degrees apart to me, with stops
at about 10, 11, 12, 1 and 2 o'clock on the dial.
If anyone has a spare decent looking front panel for an MN-2000, I
could use one.? Can purchase or trade other front panels for Drakes,
as have several.
73
Peter
VE7PS
On 2021-04-02 8:25 p.m., Gary Follett
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From the schematic, I see that one section is a 5 position
shorting switch. The other is a two section rather common 5
position non-shorting switch.
While it is unlikely you will find a wafer that has
this same combination, it is not unreasonable to use two
separate wafers, separated by suitable spacers, to make up a
replacement switch. There is plenty of room in there to do this
and you will end up with a better switch in the end.
Once I can walk downstairs again after my hamstring
surgery, a few more weeks, I may be able to find both wafers as
I have a box full of these ceramic switch wafers.
Gary
W0DVN?
On Apr 2, 2021, at 8:49 PM, Paul Kraemer < elespe@...> wrote:
Nice to see my efforts are remembered!?
Peter has described the fix precisely (probably better
than I could!).? It was a good repair in that it left
the tuner with switch contacts that appeared to me to
be twice the amperage as original and of course
transparent repair when completed.? The only "special"
part was making the shaft coupling which had a radial
offset in the fixing screws to accommodate the flats
on the shafts not aligning.? I have pictures of start
to finish somewhere if they can't be found.? I think
the biggest cause of failure of the switch in the
Drake and other tuners is operating into the wrong or
no load then switching hot to correct that.
Paul K0UYA
On 4/2/2021 6:09 PM, VE7PS
wrote:
Patrick:
A while back Paul Kraemer, K0UYA, posted some pics
that I believe are posted on this group that shows a
repair job he did on that switch using a 5 position, 5
or 6 pole switch from Russia that is still available
on E-bay for (I believe) $18.? You mount it backwards
as I recall so the front of the switch is mounted on
the rear, after removing all but two of the wafers.?
That leaves you plenty of shaft to connect to the rest
of the shaft going to the front panel control.? You
will have to make up an offset shaft coupling to
connect the two shafts and retain the correct
indication.
I have an MN-2000 here that is in need of that same
repair.
If it is not there in the files or pics section, get
back to me as I have them saved too.?
73
Peter
VE7PS
On 2021-04-02 3:36 p.m.,
Patrick P wrote:
Here are some pics (if this
will work from my phone)....
Patrick
NG7I
<image.jpg><image.jpg>
?Gentlemen,
? I got an MN-2000 tuner off eBay last month and
finally had time to test it.? The knob in the
upper left ( Alternate / Match 1 / Match 2 /
Direct 1 / Direct 2 ) was seized so upon further
inspection it appears this unit was hit by
lightning.? Does anyone have an extra rotary
switch for this tuner?? It's frozen in Match 1
and the rotary contacts were vaporized / welded
together.? I would really like to keep this old
soldier online if possible.
Regards and 73's
Patrick
NG7I
|
I've used Ham Estate as a buyer and was very pleased with the transaction. If I still had an extensive shack I'd likely be a customer for their SK estate services. Now that I've greatly downsized and my shack fits into a single secretary desk/hutch, it's no longer much of an issue. Going almost entirely QRP helped a lot. And to stay on topic with Drake equipment, I?did manage to fit my R-4B and MS-4 in with the other equipment. Hi Hi
72, Jim - K0RGI
|
I have never owned a MN2000, looking at the schematic “S4” appears to be a progressively shorting, while the antenna selection is not… looking at the front panel both appear to have 45 degree indexing, ??good luck on the repair. 73 de Ben W4SC ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
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From: Joe WolfeSent: Saturday, April 3, 2021 01:21 To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] MN-2000 part needed ? Pat, ? I *believe* I have one.? I will have to look.? I will have to dig it out and test it before I sell it.? If memory serves, it is in excellent condition…8 of 9.? Don’t know what I would ask for it, but it will be under 2 grand.? <<GRIN>>? You are in Washington, correct?? Ever get down to Reno?? Our casinos are all back open.? Heh…. ? Let me know if you are interested.? Sorta busy this weekend, what with Easter and 16 family members here, but, next week when my sanity returns, I’ll get it and put it on the bench. ? Joe – W7RKN ? ? <<CLIP>> ?Alas, I’m back in the market for an MN-2000… anyone?
|
Pat, ? I *believe* I have one.? I will have to look.? I will have to dig it out and test it before I sell it.? If memory serves, it is in excellent condition…8 of 9.? Don’t know what I would ask for it, but it will be under 2 grand.? <<GRIN>>? You are in Washington, correct?? Ever get down to Reno?? Our casinos are all back open.? Heh…. ? Let me know if you are interested.? Sorta busy this weekend, what with Easter and 16 family members here, but, next week when my sanity returns, I’ll get it and put it on the bench. ? Joe – W7RKN ? ? <<CLIP>> ?Alas, I’m back in the market for an MN-2000… anyone?
|
Look around on ebay… I found exactly what I needed.? On the shorting vs non-shorting, you may be wanting a progressively shorting section.. ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
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From: Gary FollettSent: Friday, April 2, 2021 23:20 To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] MN-2000 part needed ? From the schematic, I see that one section is a 5 position shorting switch. The other is a two section rather common 5 position non-shorting switch. While it is unlikely you will find a wafer that has this same combination, it is not unreasonable to use two separate wafers, separated by suitable spacers, to make up a replacement switch. There is plenty of room in there to do this and you will end up with a better switch in the end. Once I can walk downstairs again after my hamstring surgery, a few more weeks, I may be able to find both wafers as I have a box full of these ceramic switch wafers. W0DVN?
On Apr 2, 2021, at 8:49 PM, Paul Kraemer <elespe@...> wrote: ? Nice to see my efforts are remembered!? Peter has described the fix precisely (probably better than I could!).? It was a good repair in that it left the tuner with switch contacts that appeared to me to be twice the amperage as original and of course transparent repair when completed.? The only "special" part was making the shaft coupling which had a radial offset in the fixing screws to accommodate the flats on the shafts not aligning.? I have pictures of start to finish somewhere if they can't be found.? I think the biggest cause of failure of the switch in the Drake and other tuners is operating into the wrong or no load then switching hot to correct that. Paul K0UYA On 4/2/2021 6:09 PM, VE7PS wrote: Patrick:
A while back Paul Kraemer, K0UYA, posted some pics that I believe are posted on this group that shows a repair job he did on that switch using a 5 position, 5 or 6 pole switch from Russia that is still available on E-bay for (I believe) $18.? You mount it backwards as I recall so the front of the switch is mounted on the rear, after removing all but two of the wafers.? That leaves you plenty of shaft to connect to the rest of the shaft going to the front panel control.? You will have to make up an offset shaft coupling to connect the two shafts and retain the correct indication.
I have an MN-2000 here that is in need of that same repair.
If it is not there in the files or pics section, get back to me as I have them saved too.?
73
Peter VE7PS On 2021-04-02 3:36 p.m., Patrick P wrote: Here are some pics (if this will work from my phone).... ?Gentlemen,
? I got an MN-2000 tuner off eBay last month and finally had time to test it.? The knob in the upper left ( Alternate / Match 1 / Match 2 / Direct 1 / Direct 2 ) was seized so upon further inspection it appears this unit was hit by lightning.? Does anyone have an extra rotary switch for this tuner?? It's frozen in Match 1 and the rotary contacts were vaporized / welded together.? I would really like to keep this old soldier online if possible.
Regards and 73's Patrick NG7I
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From the schematic, I see that one section is a 5 position shorting switch. The other is a two section rather common 5 position non-shorting switch.
While it is unlikely you will find a wafer that has this same combination, it is not unreasonable to use two separate wafers, separated by suitable spacers, to make up a replacement switch. There is plenty of room in there to do this and you will end up with a better switch in the end.
Once I can walk downstairs again after my hamstring surgery, a few more weeks, I may be able to find both wafers as I have a box full of these ceramic switch wafers.
Gary
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On Apr 2, 2021, at 8:49 PM, Paul Kraemer < elespe@...> wrote:
Nice to see my efforts are remembered!? Peter has described the
fix precisely (probably better than I could!).? It was a good
repair in that it left the tuner with switch contacts that
appeared to me to be twice the amperage as original and of course
transparent repair when completed.? The only "special" part was
making the shaft coupling which had a radial offset in the fixing
screws to accommodate the flats on the shafts not aligning.? I
have pictures of start to finish somewhere if they can't be
found.? I think the biggest cause of failure of the switch in the
Drake and other tuners is operating into the wrong or no load then
switching hot to correct that. Paul K0UYA
On 4/2/2021 6:09 PM, VE7PS wrote:
Patrick:
A while back Paul Kraemer, K0UYA, posted some pics that I believe
are posted on this group that shows a repair job he did on that
switch using a 5 position, 5 or 6 pole switch from Russia that is
still available on E-bay for (I believe) $18.? You mount it
backwards as I recall so the front of the switch is mounted on the
rear, after removing all but two of the wafers.? That leaves you
plenty of shaft to connect to the rest of the shaft going to the
front panel control.? You will have to make up an offset shaft
coupling to connect the two shafts and retain the correct
indication.
I have an MN-2000 here that is in need of that same repair.
If it is not there in the files or pics section, get back to me as
I have them saved too.?
73
Peter
VE7PS
On 2021-04-02 3:36 p.m., Patrick P
wrote:
Here are some pics (if this will work from my
phone)....
Patrick
NG7I
<image.jpg><image.jpg>
?Gentlemen,
? I got an MN-2000 tuner off eBay last month and finally had
time to test it.? The knob in the upper left ( Alternate /
Match 1 / Match 2 / Direct 1 / Direct 2 ) was seized so upon
further inspection it appears this unit was hit by
lightning.? Does anyone have an extra rotary switch for this
tuner?? It's frozen in Match 1 and the rotary contacts were
vaporized / welded together.? I would really like to keep
this old soldier online if possible.
Regards and 73's
Patrick
NG7I
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Re: Status of the Heathkit shop
Mike, I went through the similar with 1 stent in 2006. Glad you caught it. Prayers your way. Listen to the Doc's and you'll be around a lot longer. Jim - WB6TNF
On Wednesday, March 31, 2021, 12:54:16 PM PDT, John <johnk5mo@...> wrote:
Hi Mike
Glad that you got this taken care of relatively early (one stint is not so bad). Its amazing what they can do these days with the "drive through" theory of modern medicine.
I look forward to shopping in your store again! Get well soon and do what the doc says to do!
John K5MO
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Mike
Thank you for your note.? We wish you the best to get back to good health again and you will have good treatment.
It was a scare, but that is a good thing, a warning, so you can make changes.
Nigel
Mike prayers my friend for a fast recovery.you have been missed...73.Tony wa4jqs?
Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: "mike bryce via " <prosolar= [email protected]>
Date: 3/31/21 15:34 (GMT-05:00)
To: [email protected]
Subject: [DRAKE-RADIO] Status of the Heathkit shop
For all those Drake collectors out there in radio land.
A few weeks ago I temporarily? shut down ‘The Heathkit Shop’ website’ cause I wasn’t feeling so hot. It will be back up sometime this year. I had hoped for sometime this summer.
However, on Friday the 26th of March, my clock stopped. Taken to hospital and had my pipes cleaned and had the roto-rooter run though them. Apparently, I had (have) microvascular angina.
I drove myself to the North Lawrence fired department where they took me to the hospital.
One stint inserted, but the rest of the plumbing seems to be okay.
More doctors to see, and I have enough pills to start my own drug store now
I’m still kicking, just not a high as I was
I could have went sideways.
With a bit of luck, I’ll have the Heathkit Shop up and running later this? year
73
Mike, WB8VGE
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Nope, I paid top dollar so for that reason I’m returning it for a refund. ?He was willing to refund me the cost of parts but comparing this to the schematic, I’m learning that what I was looking at was someone else’s repair. ?The way they had incorrectly wired it likely caused the sw to flash over and melt itself. ?If the unit took that much divergent energy, what else could’ve been compromised? ?Thankfully the guy I purchased it from is quite gracious and is willing to work with me. ?Alas, I’m back in the market for an MN-2000… anyone?
Patrick
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On Apr 2, 2021, at 6:59 PM, n4buq < n4buq@...> wrote:
Anyone know the dimensions and thread size(s) needed for that ceramic standoff. ?I have some that look like they might be close and would be happy to pass one along if it will fit.Thanks,Barry - N4BUQ----- Original Message -----From: "Patrick P" <sbus1313@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Friday, April 2, 2021 5:36:34 PM Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] MN-2000 part needed
Here are some pics (if this will work from my phone)....
Patrick NG7I
On Apr 2, 2021, at 14:46, Patrick P via <sbus1313@...> wrote:
?Gentlemen,
?I got an MN-2000 tuner off eBay last month and finally had time to test ?it. ?The knob in the upper left ( Alternate / Match 1 / Match 2 / Direct ?1 / Direct 2 ) was seized so upon further inspection it appears this ?unit was hit by lightning. ?Does anyone have an extra rotary switch for ?this tuner? ?It's frozen in Match 1 and the rotary contacts were ?vaporized / welded together. ?I would really like to keep this old ?soldier online if possible.
Regards and 73's Patrick NG7I
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