Look around on ebay… I found exactly what I needed.? On the shorting vs non-shorting, you may be wanting a progressively shorting section.. ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: Gary FollettSent: Friday, April 2, 2021 23:20 To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] MN-2000 part needed ? From the schematic, I see that one section is a 5 position shorting switch. The other is a two section rather common 5 position non-shorting switch. While it is unlikely you will find a wafer that has this same combination, it is not unreasonable to use two separate wafers, separated by suitable spacers, to make up a replacement switch. There is plenty of room in there to do this and you will end up with a better switch in the end. Once I can walk downstairs again after my hamstring surgery, a few more weeks, I may be able to find both wafers as I have a box full of these ceramic switch wafers. W0DVN?
On Apr 2, 2021, at 8:49 PM, Paul Kraemer <elespe@...> wrote: ? Nice to see my efforts are remembered!? Peter has described the fix precisely (probably better than I could!).? It was a good repair in that it left the tuner with switch contacts that appeared to me to be twice the amperage as original and of course transparent repair when completed.? The only "special" part was making the shaft coupling which had a radial offset in the fixing screws to accommodate the flats on the shafts not aligning.? I have pictures of start to finish somewhere if they can't be found.? I think the biggest cause of failure of the switch in the Drake and other tuners is operating into the wrong or no load then switching hot to correct that. Paul K0UYA On 4/2/2021 6:09 PM, VE7PS wrote: Patrick:
A while back Paul Kraemer, K0UYA, posted some pics that I believe are posted on this group that shows a repair job he did on that switch using a 5 position, 5 or 6 pole switch from Russia that is still available on E-bay for (I believe) $18.? You mount it backwards as I recall so the front of the switch is mounted on the rear, after removing all but two of the wafers.? That leaves you plenty of shaft to connect to the rest of the shaft going to the front panel control.? You will have to make up an offset shaft coupling to connect the two shafts and retain the correct indication.
I have an MN-2000 here that is in need of that same repair.
If it is not there in the files or pics section, get back to me as I have them saved too.?
73
Peter VE7PS On 2021-04-02 3:36 p.m., Patrick P wrote: Here are some pics (if this will work from my phone).... ?Gentlemen,
? I got an MN-2000 tuner off eBay last month and finally had time to test it.? The knob in the upper left ( Alternate / Match 1 / Match 2 / Direct 1 / Direct 2 ) was seized so upon further inspection it appears this unit was hit by lightning.? Does anyone have an extra rotary switch for this tuner?? It's frozen in Match 1 and the rotary contacts were vaporized / welded together.? I would really like to keep this old soldier online if possible.
Regards and 73's Patrick NG7I
?
?
|
From the schematic, I see that one section is a 5 position shorting switch. The other is a two section rather common 5 position non-shorting switch.
While it is unlikely you will find a wafer that has this same combination, it is not unreasonable to use two separate wafers, separated by suitable spacers, to make up a replacement switch. There is plenty of room in there to do this and you will end up with a better switch in the end.
Once I can walk downstairs again after my hamstring surgery, a few more weeks, I may be able to find both wafers as I have a box full of these ceramic switch wafers.
Gary
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 2, 2021, at 8:49 PM, Paul Kraemer < elespe@...> wrote:
Nice to see my efforts are remembered!? Peter has described the
fix precisely (probably better than I could!).? It was a good
repair in that it left the tuner with switch contacts that
appeared to me to be twice the amperage as original and of course
transparent repair when completed.? The only "special" part was
making the shaft coupling which had a radial offset in the fixing
screws to accommodate the flats on the shafts not aligning.? I
have pictures of start to finish somewhere if they can't be
found.? I think the biggest cause of failure of the switch in the
Drake and other tuners is operating into the wrong or no load then
switching hot to correct that. Paul K0UYA
On 4/2/2021 6:09 PM, VE7PS wrote:
Patrick:
A while back Paul Kraemer, K0UYA, posted some pics that I believe
are posted on this group that shows a repair job he did on that
switch using a 5 position, 5 or 6 pole switch from Russia that is
still available on E-bay for (I believe) $18.? You mount it
backwards as I recall so the front of the switch is mounted on the
rear, after removing all but two of the wafers.? That leaves you
plenty of shaft to connect to the rest of the shaft going to the
front panel control.? You will have to make up an offset shaft
coupling to connect the two shafts and retain the correct
indication.
I have an MN-2000 here that is in need of that same repair.
If it is not there in the files or pics section, get back to me as
I have them saved too.?
73
Peter
VE7PS
On 2021-04-02 3:36 p.m., Patrick P
wrote:
Here are some pics (if this will work from my
phone)....
Patrick
NG7I
<image.jpg><image.jpg>
?Gentlemen,
? I got an MN-2000 tuner off eBay last month and finally had
time to test it.? The knob in the upper left ( Alternate /
Match 1 / Match 2 / Direct 1 / Direct 2 ) was seized so upon
further inspection it appears this unit was hit by
lightning.? Does anyone have an extra rotary switch for this
tuner?? It's frozen in Match 1 and the rotary contacts were
vaporized / welded together.? I would really like to keep
this old soldier online if possible.
Regards and 73's
Patrick
NG7I
|
Re: Status of the Heathkit shop
Mike, I went through the similar with 1 stent in 2006. Glad you caught it. Prayers your way. Listen to the Doc's and you'll be around a lot longer. Jim - WB6TNF
On Wednesday, March 31, 2021, 12:54:16 PM PDT, John <johnk5mo@...> wrote:
Hi Mike
Glad that you got this taken care of relatively early (one stint is not so bad). Its amazing what they can do these days with the "drive through" theory of modern medicine.
I look forward to shopping in your store again! Get well soon and do what the doc says to do!
John K5MO
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Mike
Thank you for your note.? We wish you the best to get back to good health again and you will have good treatment.
It was a scare, but that is a good thing, a warning, so you can make changes.
Nigel
Mike prayers my friend for a fast recovery.you have been missed...73.Tony wa4jqs?
Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: "mike bryce via " <prosolar= [email protected]>
Date: 3/31/21 15:34 (GMT-05:00)
To: [email protected]
Subject: [DRAKE-RADIO] Status of the Heathkit shop
For all those Drake collectors out there in radio land.
A few weeks ago I temporarily? shut down ‘The Heathkit Shop’ website’ cause I wasn’t feeling so hot. It will be back up sometime this year. I had hoped for sometime this summer.
However, on Friday the 26th of March, my clock stopped. Taken to hospital and had my pipes cleaned and had the roto-rooter run though them. Apparently, I had (have) microvascular angina.
I drove myself to the North Lawrence fired department where they took me to the hospital.
One stint inserted, but the rest of the plumbing seems to be okay.
More doctors to see, and I have enough pills to start my own drug store now
I’m still kicking, just not a high as I was
I could have went sideways.
With a bit of luck, I’ll have the Heathkit Shop up and running later this? year
73
Mike, WB8VGE
|
Nope, I paid top dollar so for that reason I’m returning it for a refund. ?He was willing to refund me the cost of parts but comparing this to the schematic, I’m learning that what I was looking at was someone else’s repair. ?The way they had incorrectly wired it likely caused the sw to flash over and melt itself. ?If the unit took that much divergent energy, what else could’ve been compromised? ?Thankfully the guy I purchased it from is quite gracious and is willing to work with me. ?Alas, I’m back in the market for an MN-2000… anyone?
Patrick
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 2, 2021, at 6:59 PM, n4buq < n4buq@...> wrote:
Anyone know the dimensions and thread size(s) needed for that ceramic standoff. ?I have some that look like they might be close and would be happy to pass one along if it will fit.Thanks,Barry - N4BUQ----- Original Message -----From: "Patrick P" <sbus1313@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Friday, April 2, 2021 5:36:34 PM Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] MN-2000 part needed
Here are some pics (if this will work from my phone)....
Patrick NG7I
On Apr 2, 2021, at 14:46, Patrick P via <sbus1313@...> wrote:
?Gentlemen,
?I got an MN-2000 tuner off eBay last month and finally had time to test ?it. ?The knob in the upper left ( Alternate / Match 1 / Match 2 / Direct ?1 / Direct 2 ) was seized so upon further inspection it appears this ?unit was hit by lightning. ?Does anyone have an extra rotary switch for ?this tuner? ?It's frozen in Match 1 and the rotary contacts were ?vaporized / welded together. ?I would really like to keep this old ?soldier online if possible.
Regards and 73's Patrick NG7I
|
Re: L75 Amp Main Power Switch Availability
Wow Steve! I bet this is really common... to find this kind of failures on old equipment as you said. Now I won't be surprised again. Never happened to me before with Collins but sure that doesn't mean anything. I am sure they were also plagued with problems too. Just take a look at all the Service Bulletins they published fixing lots of problems.
With Heathkit you expect surprises (like completely missing solder wiring up to wrong wiring) but never have had that experience because from day one I remove all components and start assembling again, using the manual and modern resistors/caps, etc. and I have had terrible failures of my own but was able to discover them on time. But this is the second time it happens to me with Drake.
Had another cold solder in my restored Drake TR-4C... a very small cap was not soldered at all in the center of one multiple connection points and was behaving erratic. One of those kind of failures that by giving a thump on the chassis will fix it. Any way, spent one hour just to finally find where the fault was and fixed it. This radio was in use here in YS for many many years. Too bad the SK YS colleague who once owned it was no longer available, to ask him if he had any troubles with it.
There is so much wisdom in this list guys!
Thanks for all what you share with us here.
73
Rob YS1RS
On Friday, April 2, 2021, 7:52:02 PM CST, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io <w1es@...> wrote:
Rob, I, too have found cold solder joints on older rigs — as well as point-to-point wiring that wasn’t soldered at all and worked for over 45 years before finally failing!
I worked at Digital in the 1970’s and remember that QC was 100% visual inspection and then to test. If the unit passed, it went out the door. Sometimes, things get missed and they stay hidden for years!
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent from ProtonMail for iOS
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Fri, Apr 2, 2021 at 18:24, Roberto - YS1RS via groups.io < ys1rs@...> wrote: Was doing a quick recap after restoring this Drake L75 Amp.: 1- the two RCA connectors on the back of the unit (Vox Relay and Transmitter AGC) are too close together for comfort! ?I made the cable to connect to my Yaesu but both cables do not fit together. So I am using only the Relay. All the RCA connectors, locally sold, are intended for audio and those are the thick fancy type. Need to find old vintage RCAs to use here or build an “adapter” to connect my modern set of cables. 2- Had a lot of head scratching at the time of turning on the amp, after finishing the restoration. Had nothing on the meter. No activity at all. Though had failed with colors but at same time had relay activity and the humming inside sounded like all was ok, the fan was working and the power consumption measured was also OK. But still nothing on the meter... took the meter out and tested it outside and, to my surprise, the meter was not working but seemed mechanically ok. Well, found a cold solder on the connection of a small wire inside the meter! Had to take it apart completely and it was like working on an old clock mechanism. Slow and meticulous with magnifier glasses.?
Clearly this was a manufacturer’s failure. Does anybody here has the warranty phone number from?Drake? LOL to claim warranty LOL?
Do you know (just curiosity) who made the Drake L75 panel meter? Simpson or maybe Weston??
Anyway was a great adventure to upgrade this.?
Now I know what I have inside and feel safer knowing that the components are new. Before was no guarantee I wouldn’t get a cloud of white smoke in the Shack if a big electrolytic failed anytime (today? Next month?) being so old, burning out the Main transformer with it, etc.
Enjoy the weekend guys!
73 de Rob YS1RS
|
Anyone know the dimensions and thread size(s) needed for that ceramic standoff. I have some that look like they might be close and would be happy to pass one along if it will fit.
Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick P" <sbus1313@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Friday, April 2, 2021 5:36:34 PM Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] MN-2000 part needed
Here are some pics (if this will work from my phone)....
Patrick NG7I
On Apr 2, 2021, at 14:46, Patrick P via groups.io <sbus1313@...> wrote:
?Gentlemen,
I got an MN-2000 tuner off eBay last month and finally had time to test it. The knob in the upper left ( Alternate / Match 1 / Match 2 / Direct 1 / Direct 2 ) was seized so upon further inspection it appears this unit was hit by lightning. Does anyone have an extra rotary switch for this tuner? It's frozen in Match 1 and the rotary contacts were vaporized / welded together. I would really like to keep this old soldier online if possible.
Regards and 73's Patrick NG7I
|
Man, I hope you got this cheap :-)
73 and good luck,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent from ProtonMail for iOS
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Fri, Apr 2, 2021 at 18:34, Patrick P < sbus1313@...> wrote: Also, the front ceramic standoff for the right variable cap has cracked so I’m going to need one of those too.?
Patrick NG7I On Apr 2, 2021, at 14:46, Patrick P via groups.io <sbus1313@...> wrote:
?Gentlemen,
? I got an MN-2000 tuner off eBay last month and finally had time to test it.? The knob in the upper left ( Alternate / Match 1 / Match 2 / Direct 1 / Direct 2 ) was seized so upon further inspection it appears this unit was hit by lightning.? Does anyone have an extra rotary switch for this tuner?? It's frozen in Match 1 and the rotary contacts were vaporized / welded together.? I would really like to keep this old soldier online if possible.
Regards and 73's Patrick NG7I
|
Re: L75 Amp Main Power Switch Availability
Rob, I, too have found cold solder joints on older rigs — as well as point-to-point wiring that wasn’t soldered at all and worked for over 45 years before finally failing!
I worked at Digital in the 1970’s and remember that QC was 100% visual inspection and then to test. If the unit passed, it went out the door. Sometimes, things get missed and they stay hidden for years!
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent from ProtonMail for iOS
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Fri, Apr 2, 2021 at 18:24, Roberto - YS1RS via groups.io < ys1rs@...> wrote: Was doing a quick recap after restoring this Drake L75 Amp.: 1- the two RCA connectors on the back of the unit (Vox Relay and Transmitter AGC) are too close together for comfort! ?I made the cable to connect to my Yaesu but both cables do not fit together. So I am using only the Relay. All the RCA connectors, locally sold, are intended for audio and those are the thick fancy type. Need to find old vintage RCAs to use here or build an “adapter” to connect my modern set of cables. 2- Had a lot of head scratching at the time of turning on the amp, after finishing the restoration. Had nothing on the meter. No activity at all. Though had failed with colors but at same time had relay activity and the humming inside sounded like all was ok, the fan was working and the power consumption measured was also OK. But still nothing on the meter... took the meter out and tested it outside and, to my surprise, the meter was not working but seemed mechanically ok. Well, found a cold solder on the connection of a small wire inside the meter! Had to take it apart completely and it was like working on an old clock mechanism. Slow and meticulous with magnifier glasses.?
Clearly this was a manufacturer’s failure. Does anybody here has the warranty phone number from?Drake? LOL to claim warranty LOL?
Do you know (just curiosity) who made the Drake L75 panel meter? Simpson or maybe Weston??
Anyway was a great adventure to upgrade this.?
Now I know what I have inside and feel safer knowing that the components are new. Before was no guarantee I wouldn’t get a cloud of white smoke in the Shack if a big electrolytic failed anytime (today? Next month?) being so old, burning out the Main transformer with it, etc.
Enjoy the weekend guys!
73 de Rob YS1RS
|
Nice to see my efforts are remembered!? Peter has described the
fix precisely (probably better than I could!).? It was a good
repair in that it left the tuner with switch contacts that
appeared to me to be twice the amperage as original and of course
transparent repair when completed.? The only "special" part was
making the shaft coupling which had a radial offset in the fixing
screws to accommodate the flats on the shafts not aligning.? I
have pictures of start to finish somewhere if they can't be
found.? I think the biggest cause of failure of the switch in the
Drake and other tuners is operating into the wrong or no load then
switching hot to correct that.
Paul K0UYA
On 4/2/2021 6:09 PM, VE7PS wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Patrick:
A while back Paul Kraemer, K0UYA, posted some pics that I believe
are posted on this group that shows a repair job he did on that
switch using a 5 position, 5 or 6 pole switch from Russia that is
still available on E-bay for (I believe) $18.? You mount it
backwards as I recall so the front of the switch is mounted on the
rear, after removing all but two of the wafers.? That leaves you
plenty of shaft to connect to the rest of the shaft going to the
front panel control.? You will have to make up an offset shaft
coupling to connect the two shafts and retain the correct
indication.
I have an MN-2000 here that is in need of that same repair.
If it is not there in the files or pics section, get back to me as
I have them saved too.?
73
Peter
VE7PS
On 2021-04-02 3:36 p.m., Patrick P
wrote:
Here are some pics (if this will work from my
phone)....
Patrick
NG7I
On Apr 2, 2021, at 14:46, Patrick P
via groups.io <sbus1313@...>
wrote:
?Gentlemen,
? I got an MN-2000 tuner off eBay last month and finally had
time to test it.? The knob in the upper left ( Alternate /
Match 1 / Match 2 / Direct 1 / Direct 2 ) was seized so upon
further inspection it appears this unit was hit by
lightning.? Does anyone have an extra rotary switch for this
tuner?? It's frozen in Match 1 and the rotary contacts were
vaporized / welded together.? I would really like to keep
this old soldier online if possible.
Regards and 73's
Patrick
NG7I
|
Re: L75 Amp Main Power Switch Availability
Yes, probably a Jewell (a.k.a. Modutech) MS3T series. The pedigree can often be seen printed at the bottom of the scale plate behind the bezel where you don't normally see it. Jewell data sheets are in the group file section. 73 -Jim NU0C On Fri, 2 Apr 2021 20:36:43 -0300 "Jim Harris" <radiove1rb@...> wrote: Maybe Modutec made the meter.
73, Jim VE1RB
On Fri, Apr 2, 2021 at 7:24 PM Roberto - YS1RS via groups.io <ys1rs= [email protected]> wrote:
Was doing a quick recap after restoring this Drake L75 Amp.: 1- the two RCA connectors on the back of the unit (Vox Relay and Transmitter AGC) are too close together for comfort! I made the cable to connect to my Yaesu but both cables do not fit together. So I am using only the Relay. All the RCA connectors, locally sold, are intended for audio and those are the thick fancy type. Need to find old vintage RCAs to use here or build an “adapter” to connect my modern set of cables. 2- Had a lot of head scratching at the time of turning on the amp, after finishing the restoration. Had nothing on the meter. No activity at all. Though had failed with colors but at same time had relay activity and the humming inside sounded like all was ok, the fan was working and the power consumption measured was also OK. But still nothing on the meter... took the meter out and tested it outside and, to my surprise, the meter was not working but seemed mechanically ok. Well, found a cold solder on the connection of a small wire inside the meter! Had to take it apart completely and it was like working on an old clock mechanism. Slow and meticulous with magnifier glasses.
Clearly this was a manufacturer’s failure. Does anybody here has the warranty phone number from Drake? LOL to claim warranty LOL
Do you know (just curiosity) who made the Drake L75 panel meter? Simpson or maybe Weston?
Anyway was a great adventure to upgrade this.
Now I know what I have inside and feel safer knowing that the components are new. Before was no guarantee I wouldn’t get a cloud of white smoke in the Shack if a big electrolytic failed anytime (today? Next month?) being so old, burning out the Main transformer with it, etc.
Enjoy the weekend guys!
73 de Rob YS1RS
|
It copuld have been lightning, but also a severe mismatch or antenna system fault at high power can cause some crazy nasty voltages and currents. 73 -Jim NU0C On Fri, 2 Apr 2021 16:37:10 -0700 "Patrick P" <sbus1313@...> wrote: So what smokes these things anyway? Lightning? Or is it a problem in the design to be resistive at high potentials? I don’t see any soot, which you’d expect from a lightning strike. But it was hot enough to shatter the ceramic and melt the contacts. A little puzzled on this one.
Patrick NG7I
On Apr 2, 2021, at 16:09, VE7PS <ve7ps@...> wrote:
? Patrick:
A while back Paul Kraemer, K0UYA, posted some pics that I believe are posted on this group that shows a repair job he did on that switch using a 5 position, 5 or 6 pole switch from Russia that is still available on E-bay for (I believe) $18. You mount it backwards as I recall so the front of the switch is mounted on the rear, after removing all but two of the wafers. That leaves you plenty of shaft to connect to the rest of the shaft going to the front panel control. You will have to make up an offset shaft coupling to connect the two shafts and retain the correct indication.
I have an MN-2000 here that is in need of that same repair.
If it is not there in the files or pics section, get back to me as I have them saved too.
73
Peter VE7PS
On 2021-04-02 3:36 p.m., Patrick P wrote:
Here are some pics (if this will work from my phone)....
Patrick NG7I
<image.jpg> <image.jpg>
On Apr 2, 2021, at 14:46, Patrick P via groups.io <sbus1313@...> wrote:
?Gentlemen,
I got an MN-2000 tuner off eBay last month and finally had time to test it. The knob in the upper left ( Alternate / Match 1 / Match 2 / Direct 1 / Direct 2 ) was seized so upon further inspection it appears this unit was hit by lightning. Does anyone have an extra rotary switch for this tuner? It's frozen in Match 1 and the rotary contacts were vaporized / welded together. I would really like to keep this old soldier online if possible.
Regards and 73's Patrick NG7I
|
Not sure....hot switching perhaps?
I have to wonder if those contacts are a little under rated given
what could go through them, especially in a high SWR situation, even
though they are doubled up.? Lightning....yup maybe.? That could
easily be right in the line of fire!
73
Peter
VE7PS
On 2021-04-02 4:37 p.m., Patrick P
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
So what smokes these things anyway? Lightning? Or
is it a problem in the design to be resistive at high
potentials? ?I don’t see any soot, which you’d expect from a
lightning strike. ?But it was hot enough to shatter the ceramic
and melt the contacts. ?A little puzzled on this one.?
Patrick?
NG7I
?
Patrick:
A while back Paul Kraemer, K0UYA, posted some pics that I
believe are posted on this group that shows a repair job he
did on that switch using a 5 position, 5 or 6 pole switch from
Russia that is still available on E-bay for (I believe) $18.?
You mount it backwards as I recall so the front of the switch
is mounted on the rear, after removing all but two of the
wafers.? That leaves you plenty of shaft to connect to the
rest of the shaft going to the front panel control.? You will
have to make up an offset shaft coupling to connect the two
shafts and retain the correct indication.
I have an MN-2000 here that is in need of that same repair.
If it is not there in the files or pics section, get back to
me as I have them saved too.?
73
Peter
VE7PS
On 2021-04-02 3:36 p.m., Patrick
P wrote:
Here are some pics (if this will work from my
phone)....
Patrick
NG7I
On Apr 2, 2021, at 14:46, Patrick
P via groups.io <sbus1313@...>
wrote:
?Gentlemen,
? I got an MN-2000 tuner off eBay last month and finally
had time to test it.? The knob in the upper left (
Alternate / Match 1 / Match 2 / Direct 1 / Direct 2 )
was seized so upon further inspection it appears this
unit was hit by lightning.? Does anyone have an extra
rotary switch for this tuner?? It's frozen in Match 1
and the rotary contacts were vaporized / welded
together.? I would really like to keep this old soldier
online if possible.
Regards and 73's
Patrick
NG7I
|
Looks to me that 1 of two things may have happened.? (And have seen both things, just not on a 2000)? 1.? Moving the switch when high power is applied., or two, trying to tune an antenna that so far out of resonance that it arc. ? Joe – W7RKN ? ? So what smokes these things anyway? Lightning? Or is it a problem in the design to be resistive at high potentials? ?I don’t see any soot, which you’d expect from a lightning strike. ?But it was hot enough to shatter the ceramic and melt the contacts. ?A little puzzled on this one.?
|
So what smokes these things anyway? Lightning? Or is it a problem in the design to be resistive at high potentials? ?I don’t see any soot, which you’d expect from a lightning strike. ?But it was hot enough to shatter the ceramic and melt the contacts. ?A little puzzled on this one.?
Patrick? NG7I
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 2, 2021, at 16:09, VE7PS <ve7ps@...> wrote:
?
Patrick:
A while back Paul Kraemer, K0UYA, posted some pics that I believe
are posted on this group that shows a repair job he did on that
switch using a 5 position, 5 or 6 pole switch from Russia that is
still available on E-bay for (I believe) $18.? You mount it
backwards as I recall so the front of the switch is mounted on the
rear, after removing all but two of the wafers.? That leaves you
plenty of shaft to connect to the rest of the shaft going to the
front panel control.? You will have to make up an offset shaft
coupling to connect the two shafts and retain the correct
indication.
I have an MN-2000 here that is in need of that same repair.
If it is not there in the files or pics section, get back to me as I
have them saved too.?
73
Peter
VE7PS
On 2021-04-02 3:36 p.m., Patrick P
wrote:
Here are some pics (if this will work from my
phone)....
Patrick
NG7I
On Apr 2, 2021, at 14:46, Patrick P via
groups.io <sbus1313@...> wrote:
?Gentlemen,
? I got an MN-2000 tuner off eBay last month and finally had
time to test it.? The knob in the upper left ( Alternate /
Match 1 / Match 2 / Direct 1 / Direct 2 ) was seized so upon
further inspection it appears this unit was hit by lightning.?
Does anyone have an extra rotary switch for this tuner?? It's
frozen in Match 1 and the rotary contacts were vaporized /
welded together.? I would really like to keep this old soldier
online if possible.
Regards and 73's
Patrick
NG7I
|
Re: L75 Amp Main Power Switch Availability
Maybe Modutec made the meter.
73, Jim VE1RB
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Was doing a quick recap after restoring this Drake L75 Amp.: 1- the two RCA connectors on the back of the unit (Vox Relay and Transmitter AGC) are too close together for comfort!? I made the cable to connect to my Yaesu but both cables do not fit together. So I am using only the Relay. All the RCA connectors, locally sold, are intended for audio and those are the thick fancy type. Need to find old vintage RCAs to use here or build an “adapter” to connect my modern set of cables. 2- Had a lot of head scratching at the time of turning on the amp, after finishing the restoration. Had nothing on the meter. No activity at all. Though had failed with colors but at same time had relay activity and the humming inside sounded like all was ok, the fan was working and the power consumption measured was also OK. But still nothing on the meter... took the meter out and tested it outside and, to my surprise, the meter was not working but seemed mechanically ok. Well, found a cold solder on the connection of a small wire inside the meter! Had to take it apart completely and it was like working on an old clock mechanism. Slow and meticulous with magnifier glasses.?
Clearly this was a manufacturer’s failure. Does anybody here has the warranty phone number from?Drake? LOL to claim warranty LOL?
Do you know (just curiosity) who made the Drake L75 panel meter? Simpson or maybe Weston??
Anyway was a great adventure to upgrade this.?
Now I know what I have inside and feel safer knowing that the components are new. Before was no guarantee I wouldn’t get a cloud of white smoke in the Shack if a big electrolytic failed anytime (today? Next month?) being so old, burning out the Main transformer with it, etc.
Enjoy the weekend guys!
73 de Rob YS1RS
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Re: Status of the Heathkit shop
Best wishes to you, Mike, for a solid recovery.
73, George K4GM
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On 3/31/2021 3:34 PM, mike bryce wrote: For all those Drake collectors out there in radio land.
A few weeks ago I temporarily shut down ‘The Heathkit Shop’ website’ cause I wasn’t feeling so hot. It will be back up sometime this year. I had hoped for sometime this summer.
However, on Friday the 26th of March, my clock stopped. Taken to hospital and had my pipes cleaned and had the roto-rooter run though them. Apparently, I had (have) microvascular angina.
I drove myself to the North Lawrence fired department where they took me to the hospital.
One stint inserted, but the rest of the plumbing seems to be okay.
More doctors to see, and I have enough pills to start my own drug store now
I’m still kicking, just not a high as I was
I could have went sideways.
With a bit of luck, I’ll have the Heathkit Shop up and running later this year
73
Mike, WB8VGE
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Patrick:
A while back Paul Kraemer, K0UYA, posted some pics that I believe
are posted on this group that shows a repair job he did on that
switch using a 5 position, 5 or 6 pole switch from Russia that is
still available on E-bay for (I believe) $18.? You mount it
backwards as I recall so the front of the switch is mounted on the
rear, after removing all but two of the wafers.? That leaves you
plenty of shaft to connect to the rest of the shaft going to the
front panel control.? You will have to make up an offset shaft
coupling to connect the two shafts and retain the correct
indication.
I have an MN-2000 here that is in need of that same repair.
If it is not there in the files or pics section, get back to me as I
have them saved too.?
73
Peter
VE7PS
On 2021-04-02 3:36 p.m., Patrick P
wrote:
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Here are some pics (if this will work from my
phone)....
Patrick
NG7I
On Apr 2, 2021, at 14:46, Patrick P via
groups.io <sbus1313@...> wrote:
?Gentlemen,
? I got an MN-2000 tuner off eBay last month and finally had
time to test it.? The knob in the upper left ( Alternate /
Match 1 / Match 2 / Direct 1 / Direct 2 ) was seized so upon
further inspection it appears this unit was hit by lightning.?
Does anyone have an extra rotary switch for this tuner?? It's
frozen in Match 1 and the rotary contacts were vaporized /
welded together.? I would really like to keep this old soldier
online if possible.
Regards and 73's
Patrick
NG7I
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That looks like a Centralab wafer. You might find a single replacement wafer on eBay or other sources. They're still made by Electroswitch.
Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ
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----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick P" <sbus1313@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Friday, April 2, 2021 5:36:34 PM Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] MN-2000 part needed
Here are some pics (if this will work from my phone)....
Patrick NG7I
On Apr 2, 2021, at 14:46, Patrick P via groups.io <sbus1313@...> wrote:
?Gentlemen,
I got an MN-2000 tuner off eBay last month and finally had time to test it. The knob in the upper left ( Alternate / Match 1 / Match 2 / Direct 1 / Direct 2 ) was seized so upon further inspection it appears this unit was hit by lightning. Does anyone have an extra rotary switch for this tuner? It's frozen in Match 1 and the rotary contacts were vaporized / welded together. I would really like to keep this old soldier online if possible.
Regards and 73's Patrick NG7I
|
Here are some pics (if this will work from my phone)....
Patrick NG7I
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 2, 2021, at 14:46, Patrick P via groups.io <sbus1313@...> wrote:
?Gentlemen,
? I got an MN-2000 tuner off eBay last month and finally had time to test it.? The knob in the upper left ( Alternate / Match 1 / Match 2 / Direct 1 / Direct 2 ) was seized so upon further inspection it appears this unit was hit by lightning.? Does anyone have an extra rotary switch for this tuner?? It's frozen in Match 1 and the rotary contacts were vaporized / welded together.? I would really like to keep this old soldier online if possible.
Regards and 73's Patrick NG7I
|
Also, the front ceramic standoff for the right variable cap has cracked so I’m going to need one of those too.?
Patrick NG7I
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Show quoted text
On Apr 2, 2021, at 14:46, Patrick P via groups.io <sbus1313@...> wrote:
?Gentlemen,
? I got an MN-2000 tuner off eBay last month and finally had time to test it.? The knob in the upper left ( Alternate / Match 1 / Match 2 / Direct 1 / Direct 2 ) was seized so upon further inspection it appears this unit was hit by lightning.? Does anyone have an extra rotary switch for this tuner?? It's frozen in Match 1 and the rotary contacts were vaporized / welded together.? I would really like to keep this old soldier online if possible.
Regards and 73's Patrick NG7I
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