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I have never had reason to dig into the ancillary PCBs in the bottom of the T4 chassis before. Honestly don't know how you extract anything from the bottom of those boards! Will try again tomorrow

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Floyd, If you have a 3D Printer you can print one similar to the pic below. That particular one is for the PLJ8LED version, which I have. Not a Bezel, but certainly a case designed for the device.

Thanks, guys. Yes, I knew she was managing the orders now. Now that I'm working on my TR-4, I could use one of his manuals. I see where the Drake4@mindspring address is just for more information

Yes. Send a PayPal payment with a note on what you're ordering, and you will receive a download link. His wife still manages the orders. 73 - Steve, KW4H

I recently ordered one. I sent the PayPal payment to the address and also sent a follow up email stating what I was purchasing. Got a reply within an hour and had the documents downloaded shortly

I've been to the K4OAH site but it's slightly unclear how to order. Is it sufficient to send the funds (PayPal, etc.) with a note stating which manual one is ordering? I bought one before Garey's

Had to step away for a bit to go see my daughter. ?Finally got back on this project and found a “sketchy” solder joint on C165, a ceramic capacitor on the injection trimmer for 40 meters.

For whatever reason, I was thinking the "standard, basic" carbon composition resistors that are everywhere in vintage gear were 1/4W but instead I think they're 1/2W. The typical schematic would read

Barry: On the PA cathode resistors, note they are *1 watt* resistors in all the 4-line gear. I've been using film resistors for years without issue. 73 PS [email protected]> wrote:

I just checked the cathode resistors in my TR-4 and they probably should be replaced. They're not equal and are 20% to 40% over 15 ohms. Is it recommended to stick with carbon comps for those or will

Peter, thanks for your note. These are almost assuredly out of spec, as I noticed some odd behavior around this circuit/tube. The sidetone was starting to warble like a pubescent lad, and the gain

Tilman...congrats on the TR-4310. Mine also has the "RIT ON at startup" issue, and I believe others do too. I gave up trying to find why, but then I am not a digital guy at all, Maybe Mark can set us

Craig: Congrats on the resistors already checked and replaced. Those parts are standard checks and "replace as required" for me, which in those particular cases is often. If you still have the

This is the one I use. Much better because it puts the location and FCC meta-data on a map. Just enter your zip cide. haminfo.tetranz.com/map/z/45066

I know that some don’t care about cutting into rigs but I would use, as mentioned, something like an old alarm clock case. When you cut away metal or drill holes, your resale is going to

Yep, those resistors are important! My TR-4Cw RIT has excellent cosmetics and the cathode resistors were all 17.5 to 18.5. Screen resistors were around 80. Output on 40m went from 150 to 180. I’ll

Thanks Jim, No I didn't have the DR& installed, dumb of me.? I'll install it and see what happens but I'm sure as you said that there's an issue with drivers/finals or bias. Someday this rig will

That's probably just a dirty pushbutton. I would check the +24V source on the PS board. You hay have a failing capacitor. "Tilman SM0JZT via groups.io" <sm0jzt@...> wrote: --

Mark Thank you so VERY much for the quick and detailed response. I will print your response out and go through one by one. Forgot. I found at "cold start" that the RIT-lamp is lit...... When hitting