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I became a victim of this two months ago. My TR4CW was in cw mode. My straight key was sitting there and while I was outside my kitty kat laid down in front of the rig and was up against the

Also: http://ja1vtu.scm-net.or.jp/manuals/Drake/Manuals/Drake%20QXer%20(receiver%20accessory)%20WW.pdf 73

Dumb question - do the switch wafers in the LPF and HPF modules all have the notch pointing the same way?? I turned the bandswitch knob so the flat sides of the rod were on the top and bottom and

I have a Speedex key as well. I found that I like the blade turned over from the "normal?" way. It allows the blade to move a bit farther away from the other half of the switch and prevents me from

Many early rigs worked this way. I had a straight key with a built in knife switch to lock key-down for transmitting in many modes. -- 73 de Mike, W1NR THAT was the equation. EXISTENCE!...

BTW, I bought 1kV NP0 caps. Apparently the original is 2kV. Does that really need to be a 2kV cap? I see that it connects between +650V and +250V so nominally it's only seeing 400V; however, is it

I believe I was in SSB mode and not CW/X Mode. Almost 90 percent positive. Mark

BTW, all TR-3/4 versions are like this. Earlier T-4 and T-4X are also this way. Conversely, if you leave an open key plugged in, you won’t get TUNE, SSB or AM to work. The rig will key the relay but

Correct. Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent from [Proton Mail](https://proton.me/mail/home) for iOS

A better place might be in the power supply like Drake did in one version of the AC-3 supply. See attached. > > > > 73, Gary WB6OGD

If the TR-4CW is like the TR-4 (and I believe it is), if the sideband switch is at "X", the mode switch is in "X-CW", and there is no key plugged in (or if there is a key but its contacts are closed),

OK. How would it go into transmit without keying the mike? VOX circuit? I am not that familiar with Vox? But I was also trying to set vox and anti-vox according to the instruction manual. Where should

GE tubes should work fine with the “stock” cap setup. Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent from [Proton Mail](https://proton.me/mail/home) for iOS

The schematic I have shows 12.5pF. I'm not looking at it at the moment, but I think the one that was in there is (was) a 12pF so I presume a 12pF or 13pF should do fine. I'll need to get one ordered.

I know from the book "A Family Affair - The R.L. Drake Story" by John Loughmiller, KB9AT, that Drake did make a number of accessories, including Q multipliers, prior to them manufacturing radios. If

Yes, they can be found. Discussions here: /g/DRAKE-RADIO/search?p=created%2C%2C%2C20%2C2%2C0%2C0&q=prom In short, the PROM is a clever band segment edge detector that disables the

That didn’t work as well with the ECL I used to work on. They all were warm. You could, however, eyeball a backwards ECL chip, as they’d actually glow! (You could also just look for the notch :-)

Yes, it needs to be the value shown in the schematic, in parallel with the variable. Substantially higher values are not recommended and the original values should be used if you’re not using RCA

Hello, friends, I have a TR7 that initially exhibited display issues—random numbers appeared with dim brightness, and none of the bands were operational. After consulting with the forum and

Mark- I would echo what others said; sounds like you were in transmit mode. Hard to blow a supply fuse in receive unless something's really wrong. If you have doubts about the power supply, then