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On my L7 I used copper strap and silver plated it, worked great for me. [image2.jpeg]

If completely dead, start with the AC cord. Make sure you are getting an input source of energy. Do the tubes light up? Wiggle them in their sockets. Regardless of the history of the radio: Check that

Have you verified that your plate amp meter is accurate? ?If your bias is very low you are going to get some strange behavior from the radio. The meter calibration is determined by a couple of

The grids were RF grounded with the 3 x grid caps per socket.? ?Grid caps won't pass DC grid current, hence the RF choke on each socket. Stan has done it correctly, using wide copper strap.? ?And

I am adapting a Heath Q mult to my 2A. I have the cinch plug but I wonder if a special cable was used between the q multiplier snd the receiver. Heath used ?separate cables for the IF and the power ,

This is the way I grounded the grids on my L-4B. Not exactly my greatest soldering but it's worked for about 10 years... 73 Stan KM4HQE

Check all power supply voltages. "Scott N1IA via groups.io" <soakland5@...> wrote: -- 73 -Jim NU0C

The loose plate choke connections were obviously not all that bad in terms of electrical resistance or the other bands would not have worked as well as they did. You have a drive issue, I think. It

Latest news on my TR4C. I decided to pull the tubes and test them, when I opened the cage (and shorted out the plate with a screwdriver, power off of course) the plate chokes came loose! TWO OF THEM!

I've been working CW with the R4C and T4XC as 'separates' until now. Today, tried something different: Letting the R4C control both radios.. I found that I can spot the other station at around 550 Hz

Group, What degreasing/cleaning chemical brands are used by Ron Baker and other repairers? I did not see a response from Ron after I emailed him with this question. I'm noticing a sweet chemical scent

With it switched to ON, there’s no need for the shorting plug but you won’t be able to use the calibrator. Make sure the passband is somewhere within its range and make sure that you have the

*** Does it have an attenuator? My Ebay gen has a built-in 72dB one. Yeah, it's a project, but very high quality. Look at the SA trace on the ebay listing. And it's highly accurate, with an OCXO. I

If you want a dedicated AWG, the Uni-T UTG962E is small and cost less than the un-packaged thing on eBay. 73, Steve W1SRD

https://www.ebay.com/itm/164399483784 - Jerry

If, as others have suggested, the Mute jumper is in place on the rear, and the noise blanker (or the jumper) is installed, and the tubes are removed and reseated, and it's still dead, I would use

jerry-KF6VB writes: Jerry, can you post a link to that? I tried a few different searches but nothing showed up. --lyndon

Does the S meter indicate anything? You need a signal source. The internal calibrator will do but the MUTE connector needs to be shorted for it to work. The usual advice to clean the switches applies.

Oh, if someone pulled the Noise Blanker it will not work. Frank Krozel KG9H Life Member, ARRL (630) 924-1600 kg9hfrank@...

Flat brass stock has lower inductance than wire. ?But remember that the grids were originally grounded via an RF choke with thin wire.