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I think he meant that the key was closed, or at least at a very low resistance, when it was supposed to be fully open. Barry - N4BUQ

I don't understand this. Low resistance, ideally NO resistance, of the key contacts is their normal condition. What am I missing here? -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL SKCC 19998

Where can I find details of Sherwood's product detector fix for the 4B? I have one, which I need to work on for other reasons. If its not an extensive mod, and it really makes a difference, I would

Check out the last page of the following document on WB4HFN's web site. Back To Basics ( https://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DRAKE%20TECH%20EXCHANGE-2023.pdf ) 73's, Mark, WB0IQK

Jim, you're looking at the wrong board. The picture you sent is of the pre-mixer board. The board you want is accessed through the bottom of the chassis. Open the radio on its back, with the rear

Lyndon my TR5 is serial 1159 and picture added. 73, Jim VE1RB [email protected]> wrote:

Yeah, I think the cap is the correct fix.? But Steve, you did fix it, can't argue with success. Your receivers must have worked in the past, without cap nor resistor!? Aging must explain it. This

Lyndon VE7TFX writes: I popped the other one open, and it has the expected board (see attached). So it would appear that something changed between #1024 and #1051. But in my rather limited searching I

Gary & Group, RGR - the solder blob could have fallen from where the parasitic chokes connect to the top of the larger choke. Looks like I'll be buying parasitic chokes, Sylvania (?) finals and maybe

Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, Happy New Year to all!!! A while back somebody had mentioned that Mouser part number?313-1601F-100K was a direct replacement for the L4B pot, right resistance, with a push

*** Or a FTDX10. Mine has a problem with the CAT control over USB. Unfixable. I did identify the chip responsible for that function, and replaced it. What a PITA. Still doesn't work. And there's no

Welp, I guess I need to put my receiver back on the bench and take a butcher's... Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent with [Proton

I'll have to go and look. I can remember that it was built in 1967 because it has the QC tag with it. Since I reported it to Ron, the s/n is between 6136 and 6968. Mint condition. I bought it from a

Excellent. Yes, I know that removing covers -- especially on the transmitters and transceivers can bump tubes and that can cause them to be intermittent or not work at all. The transmitters and

Thanks, Gary, for the explanation. I replaced my 1K pull-down resistor with a 0.1uf and it seems to work fine. Obviously that point of the oscillator wants to be at RF ground. I feel much better about

Are you saying that the parasitic choke got hot enough to melt solder? Safe bet the tube(s) are bad. Gary W0DVN

That is WAY too high!! The maximum that should be seen at this point is ~15 volts, the high end of 10 meters. 20 volts here would push the VCO to its maximum frequency, if it is running at all. Is

On 2024-12-29 20:37, Jim Shorney via groups.io wrote: The component leads are flat soldered to > the top side. You do need to take care though that you do not rip the > top side traces off. > Space

Thanks Jim! I now have switched +5V from U2301 after replacement. Still no keyed output. The hunt continues. -- Craig/W8CS Greenville, SC

Drake had an error for a short while (like one month) and fixed the schematic with a missing capacitor. From message #65666 "C188 seems to be added to the same BFO circuit in the R-4B. It decouples