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Well, the manual does say 2600 volts unloaded. So that's pretty close. However, idling the amp for four hours doesn't really tell you much beyond the fact that the tubes don't break down at 2645. The

2645 with my HV meter.

Bob, That 2700 volts is a tad bit on the high side, perhaps. 73, Evan, K9SQG

I have original fan installed and a Astron power supply. Seems like i will be able to run full power! I love how quiet the FA7 is. Tim Gordish

I have a box full of a 32 CFM version. These are great for a DL1000 but way too loud for anything else. The FA7 is a 20CFM fan (or 19, depending on who you ask) as you say, easy to find. IMO it does

I have two TR7's with their companion PS7 supplies and concur that having fans on both the power supply and the TR7 is the best way to go. Use of the FA7 greatly improves the frequency stability of

Long ago, I can remember fixing an SB-220 that would get a plate-to-grid short, ONLY upon heating up. It would immediately fry the grid RFC. Cool the tube down, no short. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Time

I recently had a Chinese 3-500zg flash over in a L7. It wasn't pretty. 73 -Jim NU0C "K6OXN Bob via groups.io" <bobk6oxn@...> wrote:

I have completely scanned the Plate Tune Cap and can find no bent or arcing on the plates. I have my original set of 3-500z and will use them to make sure these 3-500zg are ok. I checked the tubes and

Bob, your exciter is a TR7 on 40M, correct? I wonder if the nasty "40M oscillation" that has been batted around here may be in play at this juncture.? After you get the amp back to an operational

I would say that you want both fans even if you don't run digital modes. The fan on the PS cools the main filter caps which will extend their life. The fan on the radio keeps the internal temperature

The tubes may have been gassy. That can happen if they are babied. You might have been able to recondition them by running them for a while at low voltage with some red in the plates. They need to get

The PA in the TR7 is very conservatively rated and has plenty of headroom. The radio is rated for 100% duty cycle in SSB and CW without a fan. If you have a genuine FA7 you can run 100% duty cycle in

Check the plate tune capacitor for any signs of arcing. Also check you coax and antenna system. A load mismatch can cause unpleasant things. 73 -Jim NU0C "K6OXN Bob via groups.io"

Do you have the optional fan on the TR7? If so there is no limit for all practical purposes. I have been running my TR7s at full output on JT/FT modes for years and they don't even break a sweat. If

Wish you had another pair of 3-500Z tubes to put in. I had that problem with what looked like a new set of Eimac tubes, the red ink was perfect, the guy that sold them to me said he had just used

The power supply has the Harbach mod done and has been working great. Of course when this happens only the .82 fuse resistor blows. I do notice some possible arc points on the cover of the L7 and will

I sent an email to Ron and he replied VERY quickly and indicated he would correct his picture........ I also looked at the (uploaded)? BAMA L-7 manual and it has the colors depicted correctly! It

Will the L7 do this when just in Idle no transmit?? Has the power supply been rebuilt ever? Tim WB8UHZ

Found it! http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeManuals/L4B/Manual_L4B.htm http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeManuals/L4B/L4B-27.jpg I sent Ron an email informing him of the typo. This has me wondering if