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Hello to everyone in the group, I am looking for a plate meter for my Drake TR-4. Let me know if anyone has one to sell. Kevin M— W2AQY

Yes, I have. But that wasn't the OP's question. 73 -Jim NU0C "Jerry Kessler" <N4JL.cw@...> wrote:

Not to the order of removal. My experience has been that the tabs cause binding unless the opposite cover is loosened. Jim - have you noticed that? Jerry, N4JL Get Outlook for

Yes there are tabs that align the edges of the two covers. But they are not relevant to order of removal. 73 -Jim NU0C "Jerry Kessler" <N4JL.cw@...> wrote:

It's been a while since I've had my L-4B apart but isn't there a tab on at least one corner of the cabinet (top or bottom) similar to a TR-4 cabinet where in order to remove the top cover it helps to

The rotor is connected to a terminal which faces pretty much straight out of the bottom of the switch. Look carefully with the power off, its not hard to find. You need to do this in two places, both

That's OK, they have schools for that now. :D But seriously, all of us have to go back ad RTFM again often enough. Most people don't know this but I keep a PDF copy of the TR7 service manual open on

Thank you Jim.? You are correct.? Obviously I haven't learned how to read yet. Rich W3RJ -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus

I'm not sure where you are seeing that. Section 5-4 says simply "remove the screws and lift off the covers". Where you are instructed to remove the bottom cover specifically is related to the L4-PS

Got a reply but still confused. Why does the manual clearly say that the bottom plate must be remover first before the main top cover may be removed??? Makes no sense to me.? All I want to do is

Hi Steve, All good info. Thanks for you help! I have some jumpers with EZ hooks. Heat shrink on a small screwdriver is a good idea. The slug heights are exactly as stated in the manual, 9/16", and

Kevin I still troubleshooting a couple of things. The receiver in my TR4C just drops dead. I tap the top of the capacitor and it comes alive again. So, I'm not sure I need the VFO assembly. yet. In

Slightly OT but related are changes to the receiver alignments of the RF trimmers. Rob Sherwood found that by detuning the rear trimmers in the receivers, you could adjust the others without jumpering

No, the rotor contact of the switch wafer. The reasoning is to not have the various adjustments interact with each other. You want the broadest possible tuning. Using a screwdriver was probably the

Hi Steve, I haven’t tried the 80/75 meter alignment. I don’t have the manual in front of me at the moment but I seem to recall it says to use an insulated screwdriver to touch the switch rotor to

Have you tried doing the alignment on 80/75 per the manual? I believe it is set up pretty high in the band. I agree that you’re probably dealing with old finals based on the high band figures. Steve

I got around to replacing the grid resistors. I get the following now. 3.5 Mhz -75 watts 3.98 Mhz - 30 watts 7.2 Mhz - 100 watts 14.2 Mhz - 100 watts 21.2 Mhz - 40 watts 28.7 Mhz - 10 watts Unsure why

Tom, No Smoking. No pets in Radio Shack. No repaint. No Mods except repaired shaft for Resistive Knob. No external Balun. I have the TR7 and PS and several peripherals. I am selling the TR7 soon. And

Ok bill curiosity Exposed to pets smoke dampness. Any cover repaints. Any mods. B-1000 balun available Last worked with all functionality Why selling. Ur qth. Talk later. TU. Tom in mass.

Someone was seeking a Drake SL1800 Filter for the R7 or TR7, I have one. They are going for $80 to $90 on the bargain site. Mine is $70 shipped in CONUSA. Gary W0DVN