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From what I have read the plate circuit will be slightly more efficient if you use the CW position if you only want to run around 500 or so watts instead of the full power.?? It is true that when

Tim, the sole reason for the CW position, at the time of manufacture, was to keep within the power regulations that were in place, in the USA, at the time. The limitation was 1000 watts input power,

HI Steve, Well just before you wrote today's reply, I pulled 2x 12ba6's from my tr4c and put them in the r4b, it improved the symptom a little bit, but still the zero pot needs to be all to way to the

Let me? make sure I have this correct. I have two L7's and one L4B. Am I right that everyone is stating to tune these amps in the SSB position and just leave the amp in the SSB position all the time?

Those are okay. If you don’t have extra tubes, try swapping around the 12BA6’s and see if anything changes. Also look at the AGC circuit and make sure that the transistor (can’t remember if

$5.95 for 2 inch knob, 1/16” set screw https://mgs4u.com/product/fluted-original-tuning-knob-2/

That is a particularly nice implementation. I'll do this when I get my L7 out of service. Great writeup too. John K5MO

When the set is powered up, you should be able to see it go to S1 with no signal. Unlike the meters in the Twins, these meters do have a mechanical zero setting BUT you will need to remove it from the

I was seeing a little arcing from the power switch contacts and installed the SSR with perfect results.? I could tell there was a little arc because the lightning detector on my weather station, only

Okay they resistors measure as follows: Both liftet from PCB R41=837 OHMS R89=557 OHMS So not horrible out of tolerances I guess. [email protected]> wrote:

Ok Jim, Adam

You can measure the +24V from the bottom side of the radio at the pins of the PS board. However, if the radio is operating normally from an RF standpoint, i.e., the PLL is locked and stable in the ham

Hi Jim, thanks for chiming in. Forgive my ignorance, I am not looking at the radio right now, I assume the regulator is 3 pin, which leads do I test for the 24VDC or no 24VDC? Thanks, Adam

No need to overthink it for a change. Check the output of that 24v regulator. 0v is no good. I know that there a few experts on here. But the radio is pretty simple.

Lyndon.....you have an HT-45 too! Mine is operational with the original PS, but needs a decent T/R relay setup. I have it positioned to use with my Kenwood hybrid gear. I need to get the T/R setup

Is the radio operating normally otherwise? In the correct band and stable? That will help localize the problem area. 73 -Jim NU0C "Adam W4AJF" <adamf@...> wrote:

If you're talking about an SSR for the L-4, here's an example of a "How-to" http://www.w8zr.net/vintage/amplifiers/Drake%20L4B%20Modification/Drake%20L-4B%20Modification.htm -- *73/Rick* *W4XA * *

Thanks Bob, I am going to resolder the pins first, if no luck I’ll replace that part. Thanks! Adam W4AJF

I would be interested in one of these for my L4 any suggestions? Mike W8flt Thanks in advance

That S meter is so close to useless that it simply does not matter where it rests at zero signal. It simply tells you, “This guy is loud” and “That guy is not loud”. Gary W0DVN