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Additional note: You will only see 11volts AFTER the PTO is connected. Before, you will see 150volts, current through the resistor(R140?)? drops the voltage and the zener in the PTO holds it around

He is fantastic!! I have bought different "kits" from him for my L-4B and power supply. Always helpful and the kit instructions are great!! Bob W8RID

One of the shortcomings of the superhetrodyne is images. When you go to double conversion to suppress the images of the primary frequency you can then get images of the second conversion plus effects

I placed my orders for both the Drake and Swan power supply rebuild kits.Just wanted to give a shout out to Jeff at Harbach for great customer service helping me out. Good people to do business with.

Well, don't do that.?? Hi Hi... You are probably using the PTO signal (or its harmonics) as the 1st mixer signal to actually receive on some frequency. With the proper crystal engaged and the

"Electronica"....I didn't see a real name anywhere. Names and callsigns are appreciated here. I have attached a couple of pics that show the power supply wires for the TR-4 PTO. They are pretty much

I have two instances of the R-4C (6HS6 + 6EJ6 mixer) and one R-4B. Each unit exhibits a form of overload on the 40-meter band during the evening when continental broadcast stations become particularly

Hi Chris. Yes. I can help. I'm in Richardson. Good on QRZ. 73 Bob WB9RHW

New member here…. I recently acquired a Drake TR4 – CW and AC-4 power supply. ?However, I’m not able to get the initial bias current to .1 A and a few other things that don’t seem right when

Many thanks for the correlation, Richard. I have the manual - and the CDs, so, despite scary synaptic deceleration, I should be able to reivive my R4-B. It would be sacrilege to abandon it... I learn

ok, i hope you images, many thanks

I am mostly familiar with the R4B, which might be very different from the 2B. I found the most useful tool for adjusting the slugs in the PBT is an alligator clip. It allows me to turn the slug wire

In the R-4B handbook. See pages 35 and 37. P.35 is the procedure for setting the AVC/S-meter, p.37 is a photo of the underside of the chassis showing the locations of adjustments. Note that there is a

Must have missed something.... I would like to get my R4-B near-pristine ... para 6.4.9 with fig. 13 - where to be found, please? Michael 2E0IHW

The ends are intentionally flattened so that they can be torqued. I have had much better luck using an "internal" tweaker: basically an adjustment tool with the flat blade inside the plastic outer

Gary, thanks for the photo. I'm fortunate that the rods are not bent but they are mashed from the use of pliers. I plan to use an X-acto pin vise to grab the rod to turn. The use of pliers to adjust

Awseome! I'm glad you got it up and running. Another prodigal child returns to the flock. I feel your pain, my local noise floor has increased dramatically in recent years. On 80m particularly, S-9+

Jim, I added a 68 R in series with the existing R2303 (which was 47 R). That brought the driver standing current down to about 220 mA, which seems reasonable to me and is more in line with your note.

The 11volts comes from a big wirewound dropping resistor from the 150V.? See the schematic and look for the resistor. Hopefully they didn't remove it for the previous mods. 73, Gary WB6OGD

It’s cool what we found on the various 2-B’s we worked on last year. I had two other ones besides that horrorshow. One of the others sounded obviously like the PBT needed adjustment, so I finally