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FWIW I have used a water soluble acryllic paint stick, color: arctic white, to refurbish the white lines on the knobs for Drake TXany, Collins R390A, and various Icom gear.? Available at artist/craft

Hi Jerry, I've seen something similar to those. There's limited room where these lights are but LEDs with leads might just work. While the picture doesn't reflect it, these LEDs are supposed to be

For such refurbish tasks I have simply taken some colour tins from Revell M5 or SM301 (white, not shiny) from the nearest hobby shop dealing with plastic models. The varnish can be applied into the

Jerry, how did the ultrasonic cleaner treat the metal discs in the knob? I had a really grungy VFO knob and used Simple Green in the cleaner. The knobs came out clean nut the metal looked pretty

Another thing to consider is that if you clean the knobs in an ultrasonic cleaner, the paint will be gone when you’re done. I’ve been using the putty stick to bring the lines and dots back but am

Knobs without set screws are usually push-on.? Held by a flat spring. Can be pulled off. Sometimes takes a strong pull or careful prying.? Be careful the spring does not pull out and get lost.?

Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, I have the following equipment for sale, Hamvention pick up only due to health issues. ?My QTH is about 4 miles west of Greene County Fairgrounds, new home of the

They are called "paintsticks". I use one of these, works well.

[...] *** There are SMD LEDs out there with pre-soldered leads. People use them for dollhouses. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P8PMCCS/ I used them to restore the backlight on an Alinco DR-1200T

They do have set screws. At least all of mine do. 73 -Jim NU0C "jerry-KF6VB" <jerry@...> wrote:

Jerry, Sounds like you are making good progress. As to the knobs, one of the antique radio vendors sells a white "putty stick" which one can rub onto/into the indicator lines on the knobs. ?After

Oh, and, the blue tape is just to hold the PCB to the piece of wood. I may cyanoacrylate them together but, for now, it's just a dirty prototype project. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

Because the factory lighting for the 2-B's dial leaves a bit to be desired - particularly in the center portions of the dial, I tried something a little different and mounted a few SMD LEDs and

So today a care package arrived from Noble Radio. A 450Hz CW filter. A true work of art. I did not delay in installing it. Had to do some cleanup on the filter card; somebody had done a messy remove

4 Line. The 2’s are not the same. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent from Proton Mail for iOS

A little low S-9 on a Drake should be 30 uV.Sent from my Galaxy

I am fairly sure that during the 2 series, S9 is 50 uV. The others here will correct me if I’m wrong. I can’t remember if the 2-A had any paper capacitors (the 2-B has film capacitors that look

I have a very clean (for a 60 year old radio) 2-A that I'm checking out for selling. It has been my bench receiver for years and seems to work fine.? All voltages check out fine.? for a 50 uV signal

Bill, You are absolutely right!?? I screwed up! (That never happens does it?) I see what I did now!!? Late last night I had both schematics on my desktop....? the 2-B? was a DJVU file and the 2-A

My 2B is s/n 2974 and it uses an 8BN8. May 1961 is printed on the S-meter rear cover. Food for thought: if all of the filaments were floating, instead of being grounded on one side, would this