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Jim - I would challenge your claim of the 1st blue TR-7.? I would think that belongs to Triumph Motors, 3 years before the Drake!? ;-) TRIUMPH TR7 BUYER'S GUIDE | Classics World 73 Peter VE7PS

None of us know everything. ‘Murch’ is an old school brand of basic, well built, tuners. Much better, and beefier than many current tuners. 73 de Steve, NR4M

I know you're going for the look, but if you just want to get on 160 cheaply, pick up one of the MFJ-986 or similar - the differential T-Tuner.? A fast and easy to use legal limit option, usually

I didn’t word that quite right. I don’t intend to mod the SP-75. Just the ends of the cable connectors. — Steve, W?PZ

It's another brand of antenna tuner made by Murch Electronics.

Did the SP-75 originally come with 4-pin XLR connectors? If so, are there any “gotchas” in converting to TRS on both sides so as to plug a Shure 444 in one side of the SP-75, and plug in to a

At the appearance of being incredibly dumb, what is a 'Murch'? Joe - W7RKN

I have several tuners, including the Murch.? It was popular because the roller inductor Ultimate Transmatch had huge popularity in the late '70s. In the end, that roller was a pain, and not really

This is the tech behind the Murch. And also why you find homebrew variants. http://www.arrl.org/files/file/Technology/tis/info/pdf/7007024.pdf 73 -Jim NU0C "AC9PA via groups.io"

I found a nice little Drake PRN 1000 locally. Nice rich sound and looks good too. Only paid $100.00 for it. Nice add to my twins.

Good point on the resistor values. I had to increase them substantially for my blue display. 73 -Jim NU0C "Joe Pyles" <epyles@...> wrote:

Multiplexed means that each of the seven segments of each display is connected to the same segment of all of the displays. The segments for a given number is turned on and then the correct digit is

Well if where talking tuners ! Ten Tec L tuner works but cost is high .

Strobing or multiplexing of LED displays is a common method of reducing parts count and average power consumption. Have a look at the schematic. Resistors R9077 through R9083 are the current limiting

In my experience the only area of the DR7 that is prone to shorting is the left rear corner where a set on Moolex pins reside. It's possible to push it down too far. I solved that problem with some

More likely it is a broken trace than anything else. The display board is a nasty bugger to unsolder. The LEDs are a standard off the shelf pinout, you could replace them if bad. Not that I am

Thanks Joe By multiplexed do you mean the bank of resistors (I think 100k) going between the KHz segment and the Mhz? Will look at those as well. Kind Regards Mike G3ZCC

My Murch is green. But it's not a "B" model. Someone had butchered it with cheapo verniers that were worn out. I actually found a pair of period correct knobs molded in green plastic to restore it

Hi Gary Funnily enough I made a strip out of clear acrylic which I put on the shelf where the? bulb clips on. Also put one over the lower level cover and cut out holes for the wires etc. By bad foil