This early design really illustrates the talent of Drake¡¯s engineers and their ability to think differently.?
The calibrator was powered by using the ¡°other¡± 180¡ã rotation of the antenna trimmer. There¡¯s a cam on the shaft which presses on a switch to turn on the calibrator.?
As you mentioned, WWV is marked on the dial and WWV aligns with 10 MHz. Drake didn¡¯t know it at the time, but what is there now is a 6 ham band receiver, as these later 1-A¡¯s cover 30m just fine!
There is no complete schematic of the early 1-A that I have ever found. There is a partial schematic that looks to have been created by OrCad years ago. There are definite differences between the older and newer sets, including tube type changes, calibrator, 10MHz coverage and the translucence of the dial.?
Steve Wedge, W1ES
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Tue, May 27, 2025 at 14:36, Edward J. Smith via groups.io < EDWARDJAMESSMITH52@...> wrote:
I have a 1A, Serial #331, an early one, and another later one with WWV.?
I didn't realize that the original version did not have a crystal calibrator (I knew it didnt have WWV) until I opened them both up for recapping.?
The "newer" one also has a couple of sub boards, the original does not, though the components seem to be there.?
I don't have and cannot find the manual or a schematic? for the older unit, just for the newer one from BAMA.?
My question is does anyone know what the WWV mod, (which could be performed by Drake) consisted of? I assume it was not a difficult mod, and that the bandswitch has another contact for WWV. I have replaced the tuning dial with another I had, which has the WWV marking. Was thinking of adding the calibrator and WWV mod, but since no schematic of original old version its not obvious what was added. I have a third unit Which works but missing knobs and face place, its a shame to use it as spare parts.
?
Thanks,
Ed
W1FU
?
|
Re: Drake 1A receiver Speaker
I found a reference here:
It mentions that the early ones didn¡¯t have a built-in speaker but I don¡¯t think that is correct. I had one that was in the 200¡¯s and it had a built-in speaker.?
The accessory speaker appears to have been just large enough to fit a 5x7¡± oval speaker. That would make it much smaller than the receiver.?
Many of the 1-A speakers seem to have been damaged over the years because the space in the back had no grille cloth. My otherwise excellent 1-A from 1958 has holes in the speaker cone.?
Steve Wedge, W1ES
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Tue, May 27, 2025 at 14:41, Edward J. Smith via groups.io < EDWARDJAMESSMITH52@...> wrote:
i have seen pictures of a matching speaker for the 1A in advertising, but have never actually heard of one. Did they actually produce it? It looked like it used (or would use) the same 1A cabinet. Was thinking of making one as I have another cabinet, but did they actually exist? I use a 2A speaker, which looks good.?
?
Thanks, Ed
W1FU
|
Re: Drake 1A receiver Speaker
IIRC, it¡¯s narrower. Ronnie had one, what say you, Ron?
Steve Wedge, W1ES
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Tue, May 27, 2025 at 14:41, Edward J. Smith via groups.io < EDWARDJAMESSMITH52@...> wrote:
i have seen pictures of a matching speaker for the 1A in advertising, but have never actually heard of one. Did they actually produce it? It looked like it used (or would use) the same 1A cabinet. Was thinking of making one as I have another cabinet, but did they actually exist? I use a 2A speaker, which looks good.?
?
Thanks, Ed
W1FU
|
For sale: Drake L4B and power supply
For sale: Drake L4B and power supply. Very good condition. Eimac 3-500
tubes. 1200 watts output with 100 watts drive. $1,000 shipping extra.
W3RJ
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com
|
I don't know if it will help very much, but I posted a collection of six 1As I had last year.? Maybe some of the later ones will give you some ideas.
I have a 1A, Serial #331, an early one, and another later one with WWV.?
I didn't realize that the original version did not have a crystal calibrator (I knew it didnt have WWV) until I opened them both up for recapping.?
The "newer" one also has a couple of sub boards, the original does not, though the components seem to be there.?
I don't have and cannot find the manual or a schematic? for the older unit, just for the newer one from BAMA.?
My question is does anyone know what the WWV mod, (which could be performed by Drake) consisted of? I assume it was not a difficult mod, and that the bandswitch has another contact for WWV. I have replaced the tuning dial with another I had, which has the WWV marking. Was thinking of adding the calibrator and WWV mod, but since no schematic of original old version its not obvious what was added. I have a third unit Which works but missing knobs and face place, its a shame to use it as spare parts.
?
Thanks,
Ed
W1FU
?
|
For sale: Drake L4B and power supply. Very good condition. Eimac 3-500 tubes. 1200 watts output with 100 watts drive. $1,000 shipping extra.
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com
|
Drake 1A receiver Speaker
i have seen pictures of a matching speaker for the 1A in advertising, but have never actually heard of one. Did they actually produce it? It looked like it used (or would use) the same 1A cabinet. Was thinking of making one as I have another cabinet, but did they actually exist? I use a 2A speaker, which looks good.?
?
Thanks, Ed
W1FU
|
I have a 1A, Serial #331, an early one, and another later one with WWV.?
I didn't realize that the original version did not have a crystal calibrator (I knew it didnt have WWV) until I opened them both up for recapping.?
The "newer" one also has a couple of sub boards, the original does not, though the components seem to be there.?
I don't have and cannot find the manual or a schematic? for the older unit, just for the newer one from BAMA.?
My question is does anyone know what the WWV mod, (which could be performed by Drake) consisted of? I assume it was not a difficult mod, and that the bandswitch has another contact for WWV. I have replaced the tuning dial with another I had, which has the WWV marking. Was thinking of adding the calibrator and WWV mod, but since no schematic of original old version its not obvious what was added. I have a third unit Which works but missing knobs and face place, its a shame to use it as spare parts.
?
Thanks,
Ed
W1FU
?
|
Yep, though the one in this TR-3 is worse.
If you move the meter around by hand, it bounces just as badly.? The closest analogy I can think of is a busted shock absorber.? (I remember driving my TR6 home with both rear shocks blown out and the rear of that car was much like a bouncy meter! ;-)? )
Steve Wedge, W1ES
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with secure email.
On Tuesday, May 27th, 2025 at 11:57 AM, n4buq <n4buq@...> wrote:
Like the one in this topic?
Barry - N4BUQ
From: "John K5MO via groups.io" <johnk5mo@...>
To: "DRAKE-RADIO" <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2025 10:34:34 AM
Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] TR3/4 Meters
This phenomenon is one of the long term mysteries of the various Drake lists.
Somewhere I have a tray of 100 EMICO (I think ) edgewise meters I bought that are visually the same as the drake units, but I'm not sure I know where they are, and I never tested them to see if electrically they were the same FS current. I might launch a search mission, but it will be a day long affair to empty that closet. John
On Tue, May 27, 2025 at 9:45?AM Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via <w1es= [email protected]> wrote: Hi, Craig ¡ª
These solutions have been discussed before. The best we have found is that the bouncing meter problem is entirely mechanical. People have tried swamping with capacitance to no avail. It has something to do with mechanical damping.?
Interestingly, it¡¯s only these edge-reading meters that manifest the bouncing problem. In fact, one can see the problem with no power applied at all and shorting the terminals makes no difference.?
I don¡¯t have a scrap meter that bounces or I¡¯d start to get inside it and see if any sort of adjustment could be made.?
The owner of this set has told me that it¡¯s not important To him but I¡¯d still like to find an answer!
73, Steve Wedge, W1ES
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Tue, May 27, 2025 at 09:20, Craig W8CS via < craig_severson@...> wrote:
I hesitate to offer this as it's not what you're asking for, but if you can't find a direct solution, you might try experimenting with some caps across the meter leads to slow down the time constant of the meter response.?
?
Start by adding something ridiculously large (mF-wise)? to see if it over-compensates and makes the meter "too slow," and then adjust down from there.?
--
Craig/W8CS
Greenville, SC
|
Exactly, Barry!
The conclusion still seems to be that nobody knows.? I think these topics are cyclical...every couple of years since the dawn of the Drake reflector(s)
John K5MO
Like the one in this topic?
Barry - N4BUQ
This phenomenon is one of the long term mysteries of the various Drake lists.
Somewhere I have a tray of 100 EMICO (I think ) edgewise meters I bought that are visually the same as the drake units, but I'm not sure I know where they are, and I never tested them to see if electrically they were the same FS current. I might launch a search mission, but it will be a day long affair to empty that closet. John
On Tue, May 27, 2025 at 9:45?AM Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via <w1es= [email protected]> wrote: Hi, Craig ¡ª
These solutions have been discussed before. The best we have found is that the bouncing meter problem is entirely mechanical. People have tried swamping with capacitance to no avail. It has something to do with mechanical damping.?
Interestingly, it¡¯s only these edge-reading meters that manifest the bouncing problem. In fact, one can see the problem with no power applied at all and shorting the terminals makes no difference.?
I don¡¯t have a scrap meter that bounces or I¡¯d start to get inside it and see if any sort of adjustment could be made.?
The owner of this set has told me that it¡¯s not important To him but I¡¯d still like to find an answer!
73, Steve Wedge, W1ES
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Tue, May 27, 2025 at 09:20, Craig W8CS via < craig_severson@...> wrote:
I hesitate to offer this as it's not what you're asking for, but if you can't find a direct solution, you might try experimenting with some caps across the meter leads to slow down the time constant of the meter response.?
?
Start by adding something ridiculously large (mF-wise)? to see if it over-compensates and makes the meter "too slow," and then adjust down from there.?
--
Craig/W8CS
Greenville, SC
|
Re: Drake SPR-4 50 Khz IF and 50 Khz Filter alignment
Hello Jim,
Quite sure that the alignment tool is not just spinning or there is a cracle ferrite core broken, this transformer has a clever desing and can be tweaket from the bottom too.
?
This evening have tried with the L11 coil, no movement at all in the voltmeter, same as before. I can heard clearly the 50,8 Khz tone and by ear I have adjust it at maximum peak. I have not gone further with the other coils since this has not sense at all.
?
Of course not movement in the S-meter too.
?
|
Like the one in this topic?
Barry - N4BUQ
From: "John K5MO via groups.io" <johnk5mo@...>
To: "DRAKE-RADIO" <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2025 10:34:34 AM
Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] TR3/4 Meters
This phenomenon is one of the long term mysteries of the various Drake lists.
Somewhere I have a tray of 100 EMICO (I think ) edgewise meters I bought that are visually the same as the drake units, but I'm not sure I know where they are, and I never tested them to see if electrically they were the same FS current. I might launch a search mission, but it will be a day long affair to empty that closet. John
On Tue, May 27, 2025 at 9:45?AM Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via <w1es= [email protected]> wrote: Hi, Craig ¡ª
These solutions have been discussed before. The best we have found is that the bouncing meter problem is entirely mechanical. People have tried swamping with capacitance to no avail. It has something to do with mechanical damping.?
Interestingly, it¡¯s only these edge-reading meters that manifest the bouncing problem. In fact, one can see the problem with no power applied at all and shorting the terminals makes no difference.?
I don¡¯t have a scrap meter that bounces or I¡¯d start to get inside it and see if any sort of adjustment could be made.?
The owner of this set has told me that it¡¯s not important To him but I¡¯d still like to find an answer!
73, Steve Wedge, W1ES
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Tue, May 27, 2025 at 09:20, Craig W8CS via < craig_severson@...> wrote:
I hesitate to offer this as it's not what you're asking for, but if you can't find a direct solution, you might try experimenting with some caps across the meter leads to slow down the time constant of the meter response.?
?
Start by adding something ridiculously large (mF-wise)? to see if it over-compensates and makes the meter "too slow," and then adjust down from there.?
--
Craig/W8CS
Greenville, SC
|
This phenomenon is one of the long term mysteries of the various Drake lists.
Somewhere I have a tray of 100 EMICO (I think ) edgewise meters I bought that are visually the same as the drake units, but I'm not sure I know where they are, and I never tested them to see if electrically they were the same FS current. I might launch a search mission, but it will be a day long affair to empty that closet.
John
On Tue, May 27, 2025 at 9:45?AM Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via <w1es= [email protected]> wrote: Hi, Craig ¡ª
These solutions have been discussed before. The best we have found is that the bouncing meter problem is entirely mechanical. People have tried swamping with capacitance to no avail. It has something to do with mechanical damping.?
Interestingly, it¡¯s only these edge-reading meters that manifest the bouncing problem. In fact, one can see the problem with no power applied at all and shorting the terminals makes no difference.?
I don¡¯t have a scrap meter that bounces or I¡¯d start to get inside it and see if any sort of adjustment could be made.?
The owner of this set has told me that it¡¯s not important To him but I¡¯d still like to find an answer!
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Tue, May 27, 2025 at 09:20, Craig W8CS via < craig_severson@...> wrote:
I hesitate to offer this as it's not what you're asking for, but if you can't find a direct solution, you might try experimenting with some caps across the meter leads to slow down the time constant of the meter response.?
?
Start by adding something ridiculously large (mF-wise)? to see if it over-compensates and makes the meter "too slow," and then adjust down from there.?
--
Craig/W8CS
Greenville, SC
|
Hi, Craig ¡ª
These solutions have been discussed before. The best we have found is that the bouncing meter problem is entirely mechanical. People have tried swamping with capacitance to no avail. It has something to do with mechanical damping.?
Interestingly, it¡¯s only these edge-reading meters that manifest the bouncing problem. In fact, one can see the problem with no power applied at all and shorting the terminals makes no difference.?
I don¡¯t have a scrap meter that bounces or I¡¯d start to get inside it and see if any sort of adjustment could be made.?
The owner of this set has told me that it¡¯s not important To him but I¡¯d still like to find an answer!
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Tue, May 27, 2025 at 09:20, Craig W8CS via groups.io < craig_severson@...> wrote:
I hesitate to offer this as it's not what you're asking for, but if you can't find a direct solution, you might try experimenting with some caps across the meter leads to slow down the time constant of the meter response.?
?
Start by adding something ridiculously large (mF-wise)? to see if it over-compensates and makes the meter "too slow," and then adjust down from there.?
--
Craig/W8CS
Greenville, SC
|
Wes ...
I heard that thing about neutralization x RCA, and this was the
main reason I asked here about brands. PP5MS from Hamplus arise
this "neutralization issue" not on Drake rigs but at some Yaesus.
Ok about matching. I'll not buy matched trios anyway. As you said,
there are all those PA components tolerances involved so ...
Thanks for the tips.
73
Marcus PY2PLL
Em 27/05/2025 09:59, Steve Wedge,
W1ES/4 via groups.io escreveu:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Any
one of the three are good.? I have heard that RCAs in a trio
(TR3/4) may need additional capacitance in the neutralising cap.
They
really don't need to be matched.? All of the parts used in the
PA circuit are 10% (resistors) and 20% (capacitors); I am not
sure what the tolerance is for the chokes.? I have used
same-brand tubes in lots of Drake transmitters that were not
matched and they have worked fine.? Yes, you can precisely match
them and all of the components of the PA and have ideal
conditions but, in practical terms, it's very much a diminishing
return for time and money spent.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with secure email.
On Tuesday, May 27th, 2025 at 7:41
AM, Marcus PY2PLL <py2pll@...> wrote:
Hi Steve;
Yes, will be all the same brand but not a matched trio. But
all NOS. I guess GE is a good option too.
73
Marcus PY2PLL
Em 26/05/2025 15:17, Steve Wedge,
W1ES/4 via groups.io escreveu:
From
my experience, stick to GE or Sylvania. Do not mix brands
unless you can spot the differences in the internal frame.
There are two or three different frame types.
Steve Wedge, W1ES
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a
banana.
Sent with
secure email.
On Monday, May 26th, 2025 at
1:26 PM, David via groups.io <david.w5xu@...>
wrote:
I would stay with one brand. Do not mix. RcA also
sells a longer version of the tube that will not fit
so make sure you are getting the shorter version.
David Assaf III
W5XU VP8RXU
Gentleman:
For a TR-4C, is there any difference between
6JB6A brands? I'm buying 3 of them and there's
some well known brands available such as
Sylvania, GE and RCA. RCA a bit cheaper. All
NIB/NOS.
Any recommendations?
73
Marcus PY2PLL + PY3CRX
GG66rf
|
I hesitate to offer this as it's not what you're asking for, but if you can't find a direct solution, you might try experimenting with some caps across the meter leads to slow down the time constant of the meter response.?
?
Start by adding something ridiculously large (mF-wise)? to see if it over-compensates and makes the meter "too slow," and then adjust down from there.?
--
Craig/W8CS
Greenville, SC
|
I'm working on a TR-3 with the dreaded "bouncy meter".? I have one plate amperes meter.? These can't be swapped because they're mirror image of each other but noticed that the deflection is different in each.
Does anyone know what these meters are calibrated to (i.e., what is FS current for each)?
Also, if anyone has a spare S meter, please let me know if you're interested in selling it.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with secure email.
|
Re: Current meter does not move when setting load during tune up.
This is JMHO but I don't bother with the "push to read relative power" load thing. I just use an external wattmeter, which is what you're already using.?
--
Craig/W8CS
Greenville, SC
|
Any one of the three are good.? I have heard that RCAs in a trio (TR3/4) may need additional capacitance in the neutralising cap.
They really don't need to be matched.? All of the parts used in the PA circuit are 10% (resistors) and 20% (capacitors); I am not sure what the tolerance is for the chokes.? I have used same-brand tubes in lots of Drake transmitters that were not matched and they have worked fine.? Yes, you can precisely match them and all of the components of the PA and have ideal conditions but, in practical terms, it's very much a diminishing return for time and money spent.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with secure email.
On Tuesday, May 27th, 2025 at 7:41 AM, Marcus PY2PLL <py2pll@...> wrote:
Hi Steve;
Yes, will be all the same brand but not a matched trio. But all
NOS. I guess GE is a good option too.
73
Marcus PY2PLL
Em 26/05/2025 15:17, Steve Wedge,
W1ES/4 via groups.io escreveu:
From
my experience, stick to GE or Sylvania. Do not mix brands
unless you can spot the differences in the internal frame.
There are two or three different frame types.
Steve Wedge, W1ES
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with secure email.
On Monday, May 26th, 2025 at 1:26
PM, David via groups.io <david.w5xu@...>
wrote:
I would stay with one brand. Do not mix. RcA also sells
a longer version of the tube that will not fit so make
sure you are getting the shorter version.
David Assaf III
W5XU VP8RXU
Gentleman:
For a TR-4C, is there any difference between 6JB6A
brands? I'm buying 3 of them and there's some well
known brands available such as Sylvania, GE and RCA.
RCA a bit cheaper. All NIB/NOS.
Any recommendations?
73
Marcus PY2PLL + PY3CRX
GG66rf
|
Yes this tubes was designed for TV sweep
circuits, so 6JS6, 6KD6, PL509 etc and fortunately can serve as RF
pwr amps.
I'm already retired and after 50 years of license finally I was
able to get a functional TR-4C. I never forget the fascination
this rig create at a 14 yo boy when he (me) visited a local ham
shack back then and this guy literally cloned a TR-4C. He gave me
a hand made diagram, chassis drawing etc but It was too much for
me. I barely was able to assemble a 6DQ6 choke modulated AM TX.
51 years in the future and the "sound of a Drake receiver" still
in the memory. And then I got this one last year. And a month ago
a second one with RV-4C, untouched internally, noise blanker on
place, only the finals are a bit tired and C145 needed to be
restored as some of the power supply elet as well (all originals).
Thanks for the tips.
73
Marcus PY2PLL
Em 27/05/2025 09:22, David via
groups.io escreveu:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The tube was first made for TV use
? The shorter envelope was first and all other
brands copied that.? ?It was later that the long tube came
out.? Note the tube was invented for TV use not drake radio
use.? ?I learned of the longer version the hard way when I put
new tubes in a TR4.? The plate caps were just over the edge of
the cage and shorted out.??
Good luck and hope you stay with the drake line
forever.? I have about 35 pieces in varying stages of use.
David Assaf III
W5XU??? VP8RXU
Hi David:
Yes, they're will not be mixed. All from the same brand,
but not matched (from RF Parts). Interesting that on RCA
tube description they say:? "For
Horizontal-Deflection-Amplifier. For use in Drake
Equipment.". May be ok on "T4" but not on TR(x)? U$35. But
they have GE as well (U$39).
73
Marcus PY2PLL
Em 26/05/2025 14:26, David via escreveu:
I would stay with one brand. Do not mix.? RcA also
sells a longer version of the tube that will not fit
so make sure you are getting the shorter version.
David Assaf III
W5XU??? VP8RXU
Gentleman:
For a TR-4C, is there any difference between 6JB6A
brands? I'm buying 3 of them and there's some well
known brands available such as Sylvania, GE and
RCA. RCA a bit cheaper. All NIB/NOS.
Any recommendations?
73
Marcus PY2PLL + PY3CRX
GG66rf
|
Marcus PY2PLL
Craig W8CS