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When you say "both" meters, you are referring to both the Ip and S meters, correct? Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

Garey Barrel told me once that both TR3 meters were 85 ohms, and TR4-all were 200 ohms.? I have always found that to be true as well.? Not sure if that has anything to do with this thread, but

I just checked and I have about 50 NOS of the uL 923 Fairchild J-K flip flop in the round epoxy case with gold plated leads that is used in the frequency divider for the R4B. I can send you 2 for 15$

i have a pair of nice tr4 meters. john k9dx jbattin@...

Hi, Turned on my R4B calibrator, bad hum, them puff. Bad 1000 uf electrolytic in the 12v. line. Changed it, voltage ok, but dead. Suspect IC. Been looking, but cant find them. Anyone know a source?

?Cable glands are indeed wonderful things. I use them exclusively today. I prefer 18 AWG SVT profile cables for all my receiver work and pretty much in general. Heyco manufactures an array of sizes

Steve, It quite possible one of the side band sockets has shorted to melt the filament fusible link. Mark needs to start at the side band sockets first. That where the problem started. If the power

It is likely that the centre contacting of the bulb connector is touching something that’s grounded. It’s crowded in that area! Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a

Mark, I disagree using the dim bulb test. You clearly said you tested your power supply with another TR4C and it worked fine. That test was enough to eliminate the power supply as the source of your

Glad you understand it now. Sorry I couldn't be more help last night but I was with my grandkids and on my cell phone. I only had a couple minutes to send that DBT suggestion. *Ken* *WA2LBI*

I did some more reading about the dim bulb tester and I agree that it is a good method to prevent my filament fuse wire from opening and instead make a light bulb glow! Now that I have a better

Thanks Jim, I will do it this evening but it quite strange that it is happening the same issue in both SPR4,s that I have. I have come across with other advice, a 11 meg ohm input meter will drag the

I usually use a chassis punch for 1/2 inch or greater holes. ?Trying to drill a hole that big without a drill press can be difficult, if not dangerous. ?I’ve found Greenlee chassis punches on

Cable glands are a wonderful thing, I replaced the squish and smash strain relief on my Alpha 76 when I put a new power cord in with a suitable size gland. Easy-peasy and no stress on the wires.

Ill take a look at this tomorrow with my 27” monitor :1) Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent from [Proton Mail](https://proton.me/mail/home) for iOS

Thanks, Mike. I have the install tool somewhere in my stockroom. 18 is probably fine I’ll need to look this up. To do a 1/2” round hole, I’ll likely see if I can use a reamer to get it almost to

For those who don't know how the TR4/TR4C/TR4CW filament circuit is fused, I have all 4 Drake TR3, TR4, TR4C, and TR4CW HF series transceiver manuals on my website for downloading. Click the following

How about something like this? https://www.platt.com/p/0303520/mencom/pg-9-cable-gland-0157-to-0315-black/menpcg09b "Michael Smith via groups.io" <tw8kcabpilot@...> wrote: -- 73 -Jim

It should be obvious that where you messed with the bulb is the cause of the current problem.? Look for the obvious first. If the fuse didn't blow quickly, the short you caused may have removed

I'd be surprised if the're not D'Arsonval meters. If you see a moving coil it's a D'Arsonval meter. 73 de Andrew/N5ASE [email protected]> wrote: