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Barry, If your TH-28A is anything like the Realistic/Radio Shack HTX-202 and HTX-404 HTs, I replaced the internal tabbed 3 volt Lithium cell used in these rigs with a popular CR2032 coin cell and

I didn't know that could be done as a service like that. We have a Batteries Plus but not sure if they'd do that. Thanks for the tip! Barry - N4BUQ

I've seen some of those but most of them have rather larger and wider-spaced solder tabs. I'm attaching a picture of what's in my radio. I might be able to trim the tabs as it appears that may have

Thanks a million! Sent from my T-Mobile 5G Device Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg> ________________________________ Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2025 12:28:22 AM To: [email protected]

If you have a Batteries-Plus, or Batteries & Bulbs store near you, they might have one. They have the ability to spot-weld tabs on about any battery. [email protected]> wrote:

I found one for my FT-470 on Amazon. Gamers have lots of devices with these sorts of batteries. Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent from [Proton

This is the only amateur radio group of which I'm a member so I'm looking for a bit of help. Is there an appropriate group for older Kenwood hand-helds? I have a TH-28A that needs an internal lithium

Like Mike says, no crystal needed on 80. The 2B is an 80 meter receiver with a crystal controlled converter on the front end for the other bands. 80 meters should be the first position on the left of

The Drake 2B does not have an normal 80 meter crystal (see the 2B manual page 17 for details). 73 Mike W5RKL https://www.w5rkl.com

I see the 2B receiver discussed with a 80m switch and crystal position. My 2B has neither. It also has a modified front panel that has a “overlay” under the main frequency dial and frequency

Looking at the photos that I posted some time ago at /g/DRAKE-RADIO/album?id=252836 it looks like the wires are: White - Audio Red - PTT Shield - audio ground Black - PTT return

With mine it is not a matter of overage, but of leakage. I don't think these paint cans contain oil very well. The one I have with oil has been sitting in the cake box cover drip tray for well over a

Greg, sorry to ask this dumb question, but I think I'm doing this wrong. So the shield is ground the white is PTT and Black is also ground. What is the red cable? I cant get anything on the meter?

I have acantenna type dummy load, made by someone else (blanking on the name).? I bought food grade mineral oil from a tack shop kmeant for horses).? Essentially medical grade but much cheaper.?

I have acantenna type dummy load, made by someone else (blanking on the name).? I bought food grade mineral oil from a tack shop kmeant for horses).? Essentially medical grade but much cheaper.?

No need to worry about printing quantity minimums: *A. GeminiAI: How to Publish a Book Via Print-On-Demand on Amazon* To publish a book via print-on-demand (POD) on Amazon, you'll primarily use Amazon

Richard. In looking at your photo again, I see an unknown device up above the chassis, where the calibrator option is normally plugged in.? Looks like you might have some kind of homebrew or other

With mine, I used mineral oil as the coolant, and had the unit in a plastic pail to catch the "overage".

"Mike Bryce via groups.io" <prosolar@...> wrote: The advantage of the 33C is that someone at Kenwood figured out offset oscillators. That allowed them to use only one crystal per

All this talk about the Cantenna reminded me that I have an unbuilt one somewhere in my garage. Maybe I should list it on “That auction site” and see what it will fetch. Nope, think I’ll build