Hi Gary, I did the ground on RFC505 and no change except that the
voltage goes very low of course going through a 100K resistor. The
frequency counter shows 1.3 MHz on the output of the VCO when it
is on 10 or 15 meters. When I switch to 14 MHz it pops up to 65
MHz but it is not connect to the translator board just plugged
into my extenders.? I did a voltage check at the test point off of
CR515, CR516, CR517, and CR518 and here is what I got, Way off.
1.5 MHZ 21.24 VDC Looks like it should be 3 volts. the photocopy
is heard to read.
14.0 MHz 21.20 VDC Looks like it should be maybe 15 volts
21.0 MHZ 21.17 VDC and looks like it should be 6 Volts
29.5 MHZ 21.15 VDC and looks like it should be 14.5 volts
Maybe I am way off Gary but hope that maybe that helps. Almost
looks like something it shorted? I don't know where to go next so
any help appreciated. Thanks.
73, Jim VE1RB
On 2024-12-30 13:42, Gary Follett via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
That is WAY too high!!
The maximum that should be seen at this point is ~15 volts,
the high end of 10 meters. 20 volts here would push the VCO to
its maximum frequency, if it is running at all.?
Is there any RF signal coming out of the VCO? You may have
answered this previously but I seem to have forgotten the
answer. If there IS RF, here, what is its frequency?
Something is telling the PLL phase detector to put out a
voltage thinking that the frequency is too low, which is why the
voltage on RFC505 is so high.
Can you short RFC505 cold end to ground? This SHOULD make the
VCO, if it is operating, go to the low end of its range in
frequency. This point is fed via a 100K resistor from U504B so
this will not hurt anything.
Gary
W0DVN
PS: Not taking into account C516 and C517, I had previously
stated that voltage across the tuning diodes depended one the
voltage at Q504 Drain. This was an error on my part. Those two
capacitors isolate the DC on the tuning diodes from the Drain of
the oscillator FET.
Cn you short?
Gary
I just checked that voltage again with the band switch
on 10 meters and the DC voltage at that RFC505 is 20.52
DC. Hope that helps.
Jim VE1RB
On Sun, Dec 29, 2024
at 8:37?PM Gary Follett via ??<xntrick1948= [email protected]>
wrote:
What is the voltage on RFC 505?
Gary
W0DVN
Worked
on the VCO board today and founds that the
5 volt regulator is working just fine 5.02
VDC. So am thinking about it trying to
decide what I check next. Might make a
chart of voltages on the transistors from
the working one and compare to the non
working section.
73, Jim Ve1RB
On Sat,
Dec 28, 2024 at 11:08?PM Gary Follett
via ??<xntrick1948= [email protected]>
wrote:
The power supply that is the
subject of this issue is the 7805
regulator on the VCO board. That is
the one that denies power to just the
one VCO (high bands, in this case)
when it fails.
Regards,
Gary
W0DVN
On Dec 28, 2024, at
8:28?PM, Tony N5DIM < tony@...> wrote:
The WB4HFN
website has a section with
great information related to
that power supply board. I
just used it to resurrect a
TR7 that was DOA. Good luck.
73 Tony N5DIM?
On
Dec 28, 2024, at
5:52?PM, Gary Follett
via??<xntrick1948=[email protected]> wrote:
?Sounds
like you are on the
right track. Don¡¯t
ocelot the electrolytic
capacitors on that
supply as well.
Gary
W0DVN
Gary,
I found a few
minutes to
work on the
TR7 and
discovered
that the high
VCO is not
working at
all. It does
have the 10
vdc supply
switch?on it
but I don't
know if that
reulagor?is
working or
not. I will
check it out
but have to
work on
getting the
metal shield
off. I Hope
that is the
problem but I
will work on
it maybe
tomorrow.
Thanks for all
your help.
73, Jim
VE1RB
On Fri, Dec 27, 2024 at 9:06?PM Gary Follett via ??<xntrick1948= [email protected]>
wrote:
It is
worth asking,
did the
failure of
your VCO board
(displaying
51.950) occur
on its own?
That is to
ask, did the
radio work
properly and
then just fail
or has it, as
long as you
have had it,
always
operated with
this fault??
If it
once worked
for you and
then failed,
then it would
make sense to
see what gets
disconnected
if those pins
are not in
line ?and look
for a way that
same thing
could happen
without the
pin alignment
problem.
The pin
alignment fix
is pretty easy
though, if the
board
alignment is
the cause. It
just SOUNDS
difficult.
That
whole DR7 was
always a
source of
issues due to
its complexity
and difficulty
of
installation.
I don¡¯t know
how a DR7
could even
endure the
stresses of
removal and
reinsertion
more than
once!
Gary?
W0DVN
Thanks
Tom. I printed
that off but
hope that is
not the
problem.
73, Jim
VE1RB
In 2010
there was a
thread
regarding the
Drake TR-7
display
showing
51950.0 on the
old retired
Drakelist.
The
thread is
archived at?
Please
click the link
so the owner
knows that we
find the
archive
useful.
Hope this
helps.
Tom, AG9X
================?
Below are
the posts from
Brian Koontz
WA3ITE, Jim
Shorney NU0C
and Garey
Barrell K4OAH
(SK)?
(just in
case Drake
TR-7 DR-7
problems
outlive the??site)
Re:
[Drakelist]
Almost there:
TR-7 display
issues --
FIXED!
Brian Koontz
Fri, 30 Jul
2010 20:36:54
-0700
Well, the TR-7
from hell is
now a fully
operational
TR-7 from
hell!
In preparation
for some
signal
tracing, I
decided to
extend the
DR-7
board using
the extenders
I have.? To do
this, you have
to unmount the
two voltage
regulators
mounted to the
chassis, and
jumper the
connector
farthest to
the right. ?(I
didn't bother
connecting the
up/down band
buttons.) ?Lo
and behold,
the display
worked!?
Some further
investigation
revealed that
the chassis
has warped
over
the years, so
the two
3-prong
connectors on
the VCO board
were no
longer in a
horizontal
line.? So I
was determined
to make sure
the
board was
fully seated
on all the
connectors.
To do this, I
had to drop
the front
panel.? Not a
major chore,
just
one knob to
remove (the
band knob) and
6 side screws.
With that now
out of the
way, it was an
easy job to
determine if
all the pins
were
where they
belonged.? The
only snag was
that the front
panel, when
canted
downwards,
angles the PTO
can upwards.?
So you have to
hold the
front panel
perpendicular
and steady
with slight
downward
pressure to
fully seat the
board.? Once
all the pins
were visually
confirmed to
be
seated, I
remounted the
front panel,
reattached the
regulators and
all
the
connectors,
and fired the
rig up.?
Everything now
seems to work!
It turns out
the original
DR-7 board was
indeed
defective as
well
(possibly
because it had
been seated
incorrectly).?
And a visual
confirmation
from topside
indicates the
chassis is,
indeed,
warped:
The screw hole
is misaligned
with the
mounting hole
in the board.?
So, for
archival
purposes in
case anyone
else decides
to search for
this problem:
?If the
display if
fixed on
"51950", one
possible cause
is that one or
more DR-7
pins, possibly
the VCO pins,
are not
correctly
seated.? The
best solution
is to drop the
front panel
and
confirm
visually that
the pins are
fully seated.
Now it's time
to get on the
air!
??--Brian/WA3ITE
=================?
Jim
Shorney Fri,
30 Jul 2010
23:17:58 -0700
On Fri, 30 Jul
2010 20:40:52
-0500, Brian
Koontz wrote:
>Well, the
TR-7 from hell
is now a fully
operational
TR-7 from
hell!
>
>Now it's
time to get on
the air!
Congratulations, Brian! You have been assimilated into the collective.
Resistance is
futile.
73
-Jim
=================
?
Garey
Barrell ?k4oah@...?via ?
Sat, Jul 31,
2010, 8:34?AM
to drakelist
Brian Koontz
wrote:
> Some
further
investigation
revealed that
the chassis
has warped
over
> the
years, so the
two 3-prong
connectors on
the VCO board
were no
> longer in
a horizontal
line.? So I
was determined
to make sure
the
> board was
fully seated
on all the
connectors.
>
>
>
> So, for
archival
purposes in
case anyone
else decides
to search for
> this
problem: ?If
the display is
fixed on
"51950", one
possible cause
> is that
one or more
DR-7 pins,
possibly the
VCO pins, are
not
> correctly
seated.? The
best solution
is to drop the
front panel
and
> confirm
visually that
the pins are
fully seated.
>
Brian -
Congratulations!! ? It's always nice when one 'comes together'.
Just as an
aside, someone
suggested
earlier (and
correctly)
that the
"51950"
problem may
indicate a
loss of the
500 kHz
reference
signal.?
You might find
it interesting
that the
left-most
three pin
connector on
the VCO board
is the 500 kHz
reference
signal!
Those pins on
the bottom of
the DR-7 are
ALWAYS a
problem, ya'
just
can't see
'em!!
Your 'trials'
have been an
interesting
'trip' for
others, thanks
for
documenting it
for us all.
73, Garey -
K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake 2-B,
4-B,
C-Line&
?TR-4/C
Service
Supplement CDs
<>
=================
?
Search
terms to make
this post
easier to
find:? Drake
TR-7 TR7 DR-7
DR7 display
frozen locked
stuck ?
51950??
51,950?? 51
950?? 5195?
51950.0 ?
51,950.0 ? 51
950 0
???
|
Re: TR-5 BPF AMP Board Oddness
Thanks Stan. So yours is 69 units newer than mine, and has the
standard board. I wonder how I ended up with this one? Hopefully
a few more data points will come in and help settle this (whether
it's a one-off).
The radio I got from Steve came with a box loaded with replacement
boards. It included a replacement for nearly every board in the TR-5.
But not that one :-P
If there had been a replacement, I could have swapped boards, and
then traced out the oddball. Alas ...
But there are more pressing matters at hand. Namely, figuring out
why the tx logic is being illogical. Switching to Key Lock does
nada, which is hopeful. It points the finger at the source of the
TX voltage rail being absent. Hopefully an easy one to track down.
--lyndon
|
One of my rules is to never leave vintage gear running unattended, even for "just a minute". On Mon, 30 Dec 2024 21:42:45 -0500 "Jay W6CJ via groups.io" <lastradioman@...> wrote: note to self: if leaving the room, turn
stuff off -- 73 -Jim NU0C
|
Re: L4B replacement potentiometer
Stan,
You have some great ideas!
Happy New Year,
Evan, K9SQG
Hi Evan,
Happy New Year to you and everyone on the group!
Maybe my old post to the group will be useful
/g/DRAKE-RADIO/message/33242?? Both parts are still
available.
73
Stan
KM4HQE
On 12/30/24 13:27, Evan via groups.io
wrote:
Fellow Drake
Enthusiasts,
Happy New Year to
all!!!
A while
back somebody had mentioned that Mouser part number?313-1601F-100K
was a
direct replacement for the L4B pot, right resistance,
with a push pull switch. ?However, that particular pot
does not have a shaft that is long enough for the L4B.
?Might I have the part number wrong?
I already have some
pots that are direct replacements after I machine the
mounting collar to the right length. ?However, if there
are direct replacements it would save me some time.
Can you help?
73,
Evan, K9SQG
|
Re: L4B replacement potentiometer
Hi Evan,
Happy New Year to you and everyone on the group!
Maybe my old post to the group will be useful
/g/DRAKE-RADIO/message/33242?? Both parts are still
available.
73
Stan
KM4HQE
On 12/30/24 13:27, Evan via groups.io
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Fellow Drake
Enthusiasts,
Happy New Year to
all!!!
A while
back somebody had mentioned that Mouser part number?313-1601F-100K
was a
direct replacement for the L4B pot, right resistance,
with a push pull switch. ?However, that particular pot
does not have a shaft that is long enough for the L4B.
?Might I have the part number wrong?
I already have some
pots that are direct replacements after I machine the
mounting collar to the right length. ?However, if there
are direct replacements it would save me some time.
Can you help?
73,
Evan, K9SQG
|
Sorry if my keying logic was inverted.?? The open key would sometimes close long enough to produce a dit or dah, or long enough to slag my T4XC finals (note to self: if leaving the room, turn stuff off). Didn't notice all this until I plugged the key into a HW-16. The key was a Nye-Viking Master key, with the contacts enclosed inside the base. I may replace it with a Vibroplex bug or Bencher straight key.? Anyone tried the Vibroplex straight key? 73 Jay
? ? You are probably right but I was puzzled.
? ? Both Lionel and ARH keys are good keys, easy to clean. J-38 keys
were made by several manufacturers but these two, and Radio Specialties,
which is evidently the same as ARH, are the most common.
On 12/30/2024 3:18 PM, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via wrote:
> Low resistance when the contacts are open, is what I¡¯m assuming what is
> being described.
>
> I have a T-4 that went stuck in transmit but I lucked out ¡ª it wasn¡¯t
> putting out full power.? I¡¯m going to check my J-38 this evening.? It¡¯s
> conceivable for this to have picked up some schmutz over 80 years¡
>
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998
|
I have probably seen maybe 3 tubes that have failed the gas test on a tube tester.?
The remainder have taken me on various journeys through some really interesting territory. The one that really opened my eyes was one that Ronnie had sent me. I chased that AGC problem over hill and Dale. Even swapped the whole board. I then replaced all the tubes at once with ones from my known good desk R-4B. I believe there were at least two gassy tubes ¡ª which is why I was chasing my tail by replacing one at a time.?
Because of how this radio taught me that the problem can easily be more than one tube, I now do a full replacement and then put the old tubes back in, one at a time.?
Since then, I¡¯ve found that many failures of R-4C¡¯s To pass the S meter calibration have been due to gassy tubes.?
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 20:03, Richard Knoppow via groups.io < 1oldlens1@...> wrote: Same here. Garry said it was gassy tubes, I didn't believe him but
tried new tubes anyway. Fixed it. The amount of gas is so slight it
doesn't show up on most tube tester gas tests. My TV-7 instructions
explain that the gas test is really not a valid test and show up only
the most extreme tubes.
Garry has been gone a long time now but I still miss him. We had
some private correspondence, he was not only extremely knowledgeable but
also a refined gentleman, an all around good guy.
On 12/30/2024 4:56 PM, Gary WB6OGD via groups.io wrote:
> YES, even my 13 tube R-4A had fast AVC with a gassey tube! (only until
> Garey told me I had a
> gassey tube!).
>
> But, the best tubes in an R-4B will still give the too fast AVC.? You
> can tell if an R-4B is stock by
> watching the s-meter on YouTube videos.
> 73,
> Gary
> WB6OGD
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998
|
Re: TR-5 BPF AMP Board Oddness
Hi Lyndon, On 12/30/24 14:20, Lyndon VE7TFX wrote: I popped the other one open, and it has the expected board (see
attached). So it would appear that something changed between #1024
and #1051. But in my rather limited searching I can't find any
documentation related to this. If any of you have a TR-5 in the
s/n range 1025-1050 and are inclined towards doing a bit of detective
work, I'd appreciate it if you could pop off the bottom panel and
let me know which version of the board you have.
--lyndon Mine is a later S/N, 1120.? Here's a no so up close pic of the board in mine. 73 Stan KM4HQE
|
|
|
Same here. Garry said it was gassy tubes, I didn't believe him but tried new tubes anyway. Fixed it. The amount of gas is so slight it doesn't show up on most tube tester gas tests. My TV-7 instructions explain that the gas test is really not a valid test and show up only the most extreme tubes.
Garry has been gone a long time now but I still miss him. We had some private correspondence, he was not only extremely knowledgeable but also a refined gentleman, an all around good guy.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 12/30/2024 4:56 PM, Gary WB6OGD via groups.io wrote: YES, even my 13 tube R-4A had fast AVC with a gassey tube! (only until Garey told me I had a
gassey tube!).
But, the best tubes in an R-4B will still give the too fast AVC.? You can tell if an R-4B is stock by
watching the s-meter on YouTube videos.
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998
|
YES, even my 13 tube R-4A had fast AVC with a gassey tube! (only until Garey told me I had a gassey tube!).
But, the best tubes in an R-4B will still give the too fast AVC.? You can tell if an R-4B is stock by watching the s-meter on YouTube videos. 73, Gary
WB6OGD
On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 4:49?PM Richard Knoppow via <1oldlens1= [email protected]> wrote: ? ? ?You have my sympathy with your move. My least favorite thing is
moving. Done it too often in the past. Right up there with surgery but
at least with surgery someone else does it for you.
? ? ?I found the AVC on my 4B is sensitive to gassy tubes. If gassy the
AVC acts as you describe rather than hanging.
On 12/30/2024 4:29 PM, Gary WB6OGD via wrote:
> Richard,
> I think the Product Detector mod is quite worthwhile.
> If you've ever used an R-4 or R-4A(13 tube) you will notice its? VERY
> nice and slow AVC on ssb.
> You can see the s-meter virtually hang on the highest audio peaks.
> Drake eliminated the tube product detector and went to two diodes in the
> 11 tube R-4A and kept it to the last R-4C (I believe).
> It was simpler, solid state but it caused detected audio to get back
> into the AVC, making it into a Fast (or medium) AVC.
> You can watch the s-meter dance around on sylables and hear the harsher
> audio as noise is allowed in between sylables.
> Rob also found problems like the signal exceeding the BFO on AVC attack
> (if I recall correctly) and that may be.. but that's
> above my pay grade, I never noticed that.? But now my R-4B sounds like
> my old 13 tube R-4A with its slow AVC.
> I gave away a lot of boards, someone may be able to give you one.? I
> might have a few more if I can find them after my move.
> My board is SMD.? The NE-602/SA-612(?) is now obsolete, you might have
> to get some from china?
> 73,
> Gary
> WB6OGD
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998
|
You have my sympathy with your move. My least favorite thing is moving. Done it too often in the past. Right up there with surgery but at least with surgery someone else does it for you.
I found the AVC on my 4B is sensitive to gassy tubes. If gassy the AVC acts as you describe rather than hanging.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 12/30/2024 4:29 PM, Gary WB6OGD via groups.io wrote: Richard,
I think the Product Detector mod is quite worthwhile.
If you've ever used an R-4 or R-4A(13 tube) you will notice its? VERY nice and slow AVC on ssb.
You can see the s-meter virtually hang on the highest audio peaks.
Drake eliminated the tube product detector and went to two diodes in the 11 tube R-4A and kept it to the last R-4C (I believe).
It was simpler, solid state but it caused detected audio to get back into the AVC, making it into a Fast (or medium) AVC.
You can watch the s-meter dance around on sylables and hear the harsher audio as noise is allowed in between sylables.
Rob also found problems like the signal exceeding the BFO on AVC attack (if I recall correctly) and that may be.. but that's
above my pay grade, I never noticed that.? But now my R-4B sounds like my old 13 tube R-4A with its slow AVC.
I gave away a lot of boards, someone may be able to give you one.? I might have a few more if I can find them after my move.
My board is SMD.? The NE-602/SA-612(?) is now obsolete, you might have to get some from china?
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998
|
Richard,
I think the Product Detector mod is quite worthwhile.
?
If you've ever used an R-4 or R-4A(13 tube) you will notice its? VERY nice and slow AVC on ssb.
You can see the s-meter virtually hang on the highest audio peaks.
?
Drake eliminated the tube product detector and went to two diodes in the 11 tube R-4A and kept it to the last R-4C (I believe).
It was simpler, solid state but it caused detected audio to get back into the AVC, making it into a Fast (or medium) AVC.
You can watch the s-meter dance around on sylables and hear the harsher audio as noise is allowed in between sylables.
?
Rob also found problems like the signal exceeding the BFO on AVC attack (if I recall correctly) and that may be.. but that's
above my pay grade, I never noticed that.? But now my R-4B sounds like my old 13 tube R-4A with its slow AVC.
?
I gave away a lot of boards, someone may be able to give you one.? I might have a few more if I can find them after my move.
My board is SMD.? The NE-602/SA-612(?) is now obsolete, you might have to get some from china?
?
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
?
?
|
Good on you, Craig.? Glad you got your honey back singing! David Assaf III W5XU, VP8RXU ?
On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 6:17?PM Craig W8CS via <craig_severson= [email protected]> wrote: Victory! I now have keyed CW output on all bands.?
?
- The main culprit was the switched +5V bias regulator U2301 on the final amp board. No + output from this 7805 and switched +13.6V going into it. This was relatively easy to find after I started checking voltages and seeing nothing on the bias circuitry.?
- After replacing this 7805, still no output. I could see that the regulator was producing switched +5V but not getting to the rest of the board. I had to get to the lower traces of the PA board which was a chore since I did not see that the final amp transistors had TWO small allen head screws attaching them. You have to bend some parts out of the way to get to them and release the board from the heat sink.?
- Once the board was liberated, I could see that I didn't have a "trace" issue, the output of the regulator was apparently not soldered down correctly so a heating of the joint from the bottom side cured that.?
Really cool to be able to put this dude back into service after a twenty year lay-off. That receiver is so sweet.?
?
Thanks for the hand, everyone.?
--
Craig/W8CS
Greenville, SC
|
Victory! I now have keyed CW output on all bands.?
?
- The main culprit was the switched +5V bias regulator U2301 on the final amp board. No + output from this 7805 and switched +13.6V going into it. This was relatively easy to find after I started checking voltages and seeing nothing on the bias circuitry.?
- After replacing this 7805, still no output. I could see that the regulator was producing switched +5V but not getting to the rest of the board. I had to get to the lower traces of the PA board which was a chore since I did not see that the final amp transistors had TWO small allen head screws attaching them. You have to bend some parts out of the way to get to them and release the board from the heat sink.?
- Once the board was liberated, I could see that I didn't have a "trace" issue, the output of the regulator was apparently not soldered down correctly so a heating of the joint from the bottom side cured that.?
Really cool to be able to put this dude back into service after a twenty year lay-off. That receiver is so sweet.?
?
Thanks for the hand, everyone.?
--
Craig/W8CS
Greenville, SC
|
Re: TR-5 BPF AMP Board Oddness
That is the cover I took off with the hole itn it near the back of the chassis. Sorry I will take the bottom cover off again and try to do better hi hi
Jim Ve1RB
Jim, you're looking at the wrong board.? The picture you sent is
of the pre-mixer board.? The board you want is accessed through the
bottom of the chassis.? Open the radio on its back, with the rear
panel facing you.? The BPF Amp board is on the left side, above the
compartment where the output filters live.
See the picture on page 5-9 of the manual.
--lyndon
|
Found your file and downloaded it to my Drake file.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 12/30/2024 3:24 PM, Gary WB6OGD via groups.io wrote: [Edited Message Follows]
Richard,
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998
|
No, I never got a board. I am familiar with Rob's upgrades for the R4C but didn't know about the B. The B is really a very good receiver and doesn't seem to need much help but I am always interested in improvements.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 12/30/2024 3:19 PM, Gary WB6OGD via groups.io wrote: Richard,
Look in the Files section for my file:
"Product Detector board instructions.doc"
(I should have put a better title on it!)
This was for my version of Rob's board and how I installed it in my R-4B.? I think its a little easier
than Rob's method, I left all Drake parts in place and just cut one small Drake trace.
My pcb is slightly smaller than Rob's too, so it fit in really nicely. I sent out my extra boards, maybe
you got one?
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
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Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998
|
You are probably right but I was puzzled.
Both Lionel and ARH keys are good keys, easy to clean. J-38 keys were made by several manufacturers but these two, and Radio Specialties, which is evidently the same as ARH, are the most common.
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On 12/30/2024 3:18 PM, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io wrote: Low resistance when the contacts are open, is what I¡¯m assuming what is being described.
I have a T-4 that went stuck in transmit but I lucked out ¡ª it wasn¡¯t putting out full power. ?I¡¯m going to check my J-38 this evening. ?It¡¯s conceivable for this to have picked up some schmutz over 80 years¡
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998
|
Richard,
Look in the Files section for my file:
?
"Product Detector board instructions.doc"
(I should have put a better title on it!)
?
This was for my version of Rob's board and how I installed it in my R-4B.? I think its a little easier
than Rob's method, I left all Drake parts in place and just cut one small Drake trace.
My pcb is slightly smaller than Rob's too, so it fit in really nicely.? I sent out my extra boards, maybe
you got one?
?
NOTE: there is another file "MouserParts.xls"? that has the parts list for my board.
I am not sure why these files are not in their own folder..?
?
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
?
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Jim Shorney
Jay W6CJ
Gary WB6OGD
David
Craig W8CS