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I have tried 2 different sets of tubes. Both were matched sets and seem to work perfect in my friends L4B.. Bob

This has been going on for a while, so please excuse me if I ask if you have tried different tubes. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent with [Proton

I use multiple Alpha Delta 4-port and 2-port switches. Good isolation and have handled legal limit for over 17 years. Good up to 2 meters, but I only run 100 watts on 2 meters. Rob, NC0B

Yes, pse measure the uh when u have a chance.? ?BTW, that extra 15 uh is effectively out of the circuit.? Once you add the bypass caps at the base of the main plate choke, it's then game over.?

I have looked very closely at the tuning caps and cannot find any areas of arcing. It now seems that the problem is the TR relay is hanging up with some contact not releasing. I am going to remove it

Sounds to me like big vhf parasitic oscillation … to start with you need to get the hv supply power reduced for testing without destruction …. A very handy thing to have is a high power series

I don't recall the symptoms you are having, but have you checked the plate tuning cap for any signs of arcing? Bill N0CU [email protected]> wrote:

Another option: https://mgs4u.com/product/rfk-6396-high-speed-spdt-rf-switching-relay/ You'd need two of them, but they're only $15 each. Fast enough for QSK. They can pass 200W, but only hot-switch

Sorry folks, I should have been more specific. I'm looking for a mechanical switch, not a relay. And it needs to handle at least a couple of hundred watts. --lyndon

Those switches have F connectors on them and are intended for Satellite TV or similar use. They might be good for a few watts but nothing more. They might be very handy for switching circuitry inside

https://www.jfwindustries.com/product/75s-111-75-ohm-electro-mechanical-switch/ Apparently they're 75-ohm switches. Move along, nothing to see here... Apologies. Barry - N4BUQ

Here's the listing to which I was referring: https://www.ebay.com/itm/315269547557 Caveat: These may not take much power and, with the "Static Sensitive" label, that might also rule them out. Perhaps

Well, I am at my wits end. I replaced the 47 ohm carbon resistors with 47 ohm 5 watt metal oxide film resistors and now the same thing is happening. Got the indication that there was an arc and then

These are going for ridiculously cheap on eBay. "N" connectors? The SPDT might not work for what you're wanting to do but maybe. JFW 75S-111 Barry - N4BUQ

You might have a look on EBay for RCL Electronics S-3170 RF transfer relay for $39.95 (used). New these switches go for $150 to $400. Vendor has quantity available. Looks like BNC connectors and will

I'm putting together a 6m tuner so I can get the TR-6 back on the air. I want to be able to bypass the tuner, but I have no idea what would make a suitable switch. Anyone have a recommendation?

No, I did not. I will get around to that when I get the amp on the bench. I was more interested in the performance of the circuit in place so I was measuring referenced to the chassis. I will note

For issues like these, the tube tester isn’t very useful, as they test either at DC or at line frequency. Especially for low-gain at higher frequencies, substitution is the only way to go. Steve

Ok Steve I think it's worth passing this on to him.? Thanks for the added info.? I did check all tubes before bring it to him, but anything is possible and sometimes it does turn out to be that

There is also a small chance that the driver tube is going bad. Strangely, I’ve never seen a bad one with Drake equipment but Kenwood owners seem to have them fail more. All tubes eventually “wear