Re: Removing top case cover of Drake L-4B
Thank you Jim.? You are correct.? Obviously I haven't learned how to read yet. Rich W3RJ On 4/4/2024 10:52 PM, Jim Shorney wrote: I'm not sure where you are seeing that. Section 5-4 says simply "remove the screws and lift off the covers". Where you are instructed to remove the bottom cover specifically is related to the L4-PS power supply so that you can disable the high voltage to safely perform some task or to remove the line cord assembly so you can remove the power supply top cover.
73
-Jim
NU0C
On Thu, 4 Apr 2024 21:14:11 -0400
"Rich W3RJ via groups.io" <w3rj@...> wrote:
Got a reply but still confused. Why does the manual clearly say that the
bottom plate must be remover first before the main top cover may be
removed??? Makes no sense to me.? All I want to do is replace the meter
lamps.? Any actual experience here?
Rich W3RJ
-- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com
|
Re: Removing top case cover of Drake L-4B
I'm not sure where you are seeing that. Section 5-4 says simply "remove the screws and lift off the covers". Where you are instructed to remove the bottom cover specifically is related to the L4-PS power supply so that you can disable the high voltage to safely perform some task or to remove the line cord assembly so you can remove the power supply top cover. 73 -Jim NU0C On Thu, 4 Apr 2024 21:14:11 -0400 "Rich W3RJ via groups.io" <w3rj@...> wrote: Got a reply but still confused. Why does the manual clearly say that the
bottom plate must be remover first before the main top cover may be
removed??? Makes no sense to me.? All I want to do is replace the meter
lamps.? Any actual experience here?
Rich W3RJ
|
Removing top case cover of Drake L-4B
Got a reply but still confused. Why does the manual clearly say that the
bottom plate must be remover first before the main top cover may be
removed??? Makes no sense to me.? All I want to do is replace the meter
lamps.? Any actual experience here?
Rich W3RJ
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com
|
Hi Steve,
All good info.? Thanks for you help!
I have some jumpers with EZ hooks.? Heat shrink on a small
screwdriver is a good idea.
The slug heights are exactly as stated in the manual, 9/16", and
there's what looks like red Loctite on the threads. I'll leave them
as is.
I'll try to work on this project over the weekend and check the high
bands to see if I can squeeze anymore power out. Maybe the finals
aren't too tired.
?
73
Stan
KM4HQE
On 4/4/24 12:12, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
via groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
No,
the rotor contact of the switch wafer.? The reasoning is to not
have the various adjustments interact with each other.? You want
the broadest possible tuning.
Using
a screwdriver was probably the best way in 1965 when they first
came up with this procedure.? Since then, many things have
changed -- including affordable test equipment that our peers
would have drooled over 60 years ago. One of the minor things
that got invented since then was the EZ Hook.? I have a bunch of
them for jumpering things and such and they are a much safer way
of detuning each section as you go through the procedure.? I
just leave the other end somewhere where you can't touch it.
The
only part of the adjustment that needs this are the parts where
the front two caps are adjusted. When you adjust the
second-from-front trimmer, you detune the front one, and vice
versa.
I
solved the insulated screwdriver issue a long time ago by using
a regular, small flat-bladed screwdriver and putting a length of
shrink tubing over all but the last 1/16" or so of the shaft.?
That way, you have a tool that can torque a mica trimmer without
bending the blade but also without shorting said blade to the
holes through the chassis.
BTW,
checking the higher bands at the recommended frequencies may
reveal that your finals are better than you think.? That's
pretty good output on 20m.
Pay
attention to the frequencies where each band is set up.? These
are set where they are to give the best output across each
band.? Most of the bands are set up in the phone portions.? Ten
is done at what was the bottom of the phone band and 160 is done
at 1900.? Eighty is set up at 3700.
If
any of your adjustments seem to max out a trimmer, then you can
measure the slug heights.? I wouldn't bother, otherwise, as long
as all of the slugs are at the same height, relative to each
other. The best way to check that is to turn the drive until the
slugs are just at the top of the coil forms.? They should all be
at that height.? I have only ever seen a properly-adjusted
transmitter with different-height slugs on the earliest of the
T-4, T-4X and R-4 sets and that was corrected pretty early on.
If
you need to set a trimmer past max "tight", try moving the rack
down (i.e., more inductance) slightly and try again.? If the
trimmer is past minimum capacitance, try reducing inductance.?
You can only do this a little bit at a time without losing the
tuning entirely.? It's more important to have the trimmers set
somewhere away from the extremes of their ranges.
This
is probably more than you asked for but I've done lots of these
and once you get the hang of them and know which parts of the
procedures you can change (such as using a scope for carrier
balance adjustment), they become second nature.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with
secure email.
On Thursday, April 4th, 2024 at
12:44 PM, Stan Gammons via groups.io
<buttercup11421@...> wrote:
Hi Steve,
I haven’t tried the 80/75 meter alignment. ?I
don’t have the manual in front of me at the moment but I
seem to recall it says to use an insulated screwdriver to
touch the switch rotor to detune the circuit. ?Do they mean
touch the switch shaft?
73
Stan?
KM4HQE?
On Thu, Apr 4, 2024 at 11:18 AM, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via
groups.io <w1es@...>
wrote:
Have you tried doing the alignment on 80/75
per the manual? ?I believe it is set up pretty high in the
band.
I agree that you’re probably dealing with
old finals based on the high band figures.
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a
banana.
On Thu, Apr 4, 2024 at 12:01 PM, Stan Gammons via groups.io
<buttercup11421@...>
wrote:
I got
around to replacing the grid resistors. I get the
following now.
3.5 Mhz -75 watts
3.98 Mhz - 30 watts
7.2 Mhz - 100 watts
14.2 Mhz - 100 watts
21.2 Mhz - 40 watts
28.7 Mhz - 10 watts
Unsure why the power drops off on the upper end of 80/75
meters. I'm sure the low power on 15 and 10 meters is due
to weak finals.
73
Stan
KM4HQE
On 3/31/24 19:11, Steve
Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io wrote:
Check your other bands.
We need to know if your band oscillator
is kaput.
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a
banana.
On Sun, Mar 31, 2024 at 19:42, Stan Gammons via
groups.io <buttercup11421@...>
wrote:
Halfway between 10 and 0.
Yes, checking the oscillator is next on the to do
list.
73
Stan
KM4HQE
On 3/31/24 18:38, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io
wrote:
> Where is your RF TUNE setting at max?
>
> I'm guessing you have no band oscillator...
>
> Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
>
> Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a
banana.
>
> Sent with Proton Mail secure email.
>
> On Sunday, March 31st, 2024 at 7:14 PM, Stan
Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...>
wrote:
>
>> I have a T-4X which has some odd problems. On
40 meters it will put out
>> 100 watts, but the output on other bands, 80
for example is about 50
>> watts. On 75 meters output is like 10 watts.
Output on higher bands is
>> also low. Weak finals? Yeah, I know it's not
a real test, but the
>> Sylvania tubes check good with my B&K
707. The grid resistors are out of
>> tolerance. One reads 77 ohms and the other
reads 84 ohms. I also found
>> that Drake failed to solder C51 which goes
from V5 pin 1 to ground. But,
>> I doubt replacing the grid resistors and
soldering C51 will fix the
>> problem I have. So, I'm looking at doing an
alignment. My question is
>> what does Drake mean when they say detune T5
and T4 by touching an
>> insulated screwdriver on the rotor of S4A and
S4B? Touch the
>> screwdriver on the switch shaft in front of
those switch wafers?
>>
>> 73
>>
>> Stan
>> KM4HQE
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
|
Kevin I still troubleshooting a couple of things. The receiver in my TR4C just drops dead. I tap the top of the capacitor and it comes alive again. So, I'm not sure I need the VFO assembly. yet. In your collection would you have the electrolytic capacitor for a TR4C and I'm also looking for 2 of the wire clips thar would hold the transmit/ receive relay in place. It's a little piece of thin u-shaped spring wire. I'll let you know about the VFO as soon as I can.
Thanks? Tim KD2SC
On Thursday, March 21, 2024 at 01:38:26 PM EDT, Kevin Kampman <k8kvn@...> wrote:
I have the crystals listed in this pdf file, both new and used. They were WA8SAJ's inventory:
Let me know which you'd be interested in. My email is good on QRZ.?
--
73, Kevin, K8KVN
|
Slightly OT but related are changes to the receiver alignments of the RF trimmers.? Rob Sherwood found that by detuning the rear trimmers in the receivers, you could adjust the others without jumpering anything.? He found this with the C Line but it applies to the older ones, as well.
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with secure email.
On Thursday, April 4th, 2024 at 1:12 PM, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io <w1es@...> wrote:
No, the rotor contact of the switch wafer.? The reasoning is to not have the various adjustments interact with each other.? You want the broadest possible tuning.
Using a screwdriver was probably the best way in 1965 when they first came up with this procedure.? Since then, many things have changed -- including affordable test equipment that our peers would have drooled over 60 years ago. One of the minor things that got invented since then was the EZ Hook.? I have a bunch of them for jumpering things and such and they are a much safer way of detuning each section as you go through the procedure.? I just leave the other end somewhere where you can't touch it.
The only part of the adjustment that needs this are the parts where the front two caps are adjusted. When you adjust the second-from-front trimmer, you detune the front one, and vice versa.
I solved the insulated screwdriver issue a long time ago by using a regular, small flat-bladed screwdriver and putting a length of shrink tubing over all but the last 1/16" or so of the shaft.? That way, you have a tool that can torque a mica trimmer without bending the blade but also without shorting said blade to the holes through the chassis.
BTW, checking the higher bands at the recommended frequencies may reveal that your finals are better than you think.? That's pretty good output on 20m.
Pay attention to the frequencies where each band is set up.? These are set where they are to give the best output across each band.? Most of the bands are set up in the phone portions.? Ten is done at what was the bottom of the phone band and 160 is done at 1900.? Eighty is set up at 3700.
If any of your adjustments seem to max out a trimmer, then you can measure the slug heights.? I wouldn't bother, otherwise, as long as all of the slugs are at the same height, relative to each other. The best way to check that is to turn the drive until the slugs are just at the top of the coil forms.? They should all be at that height.? I have only ever seen a properly-adjusted transmitter with different-height slugs on the earliest of the T-4, T-4X and R-4 sets and that was corrected pretty early on.
If you need to set a trimmer past max "tight", try moving the rack down (i.e., more inductance) slightly and try again.? If the trimmer is past minimum capacitance, try reducing inductance.? You can only do this a little bit at a time without losing the tuning entirely.? It's more important to have the trimmers set somewhere away from the extremes of their ranges.
This is probably more than you asked for but I've done lots of these and once you get the hang of them and know which parts of the procedures you can change (such as using a scope for carrier balance adjustment), they become second nature.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with secure email.
On Thursday, April 4th, 2024 at 12:44 PM, Stan Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...> wrote:
Hi Steve,
I haven’t tried the 80/75 meter alignment. ?I don’t have the manual in front of me at the moment but I seem to recall it says to use an insulated screwdriver to touch the switch rotor to detune the circuit. ?Do they mean touch the switch shaft?
73
Stan? KM4HQE?
On Thu, Apr 4, 2024 at 11:18 AM, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io <w1es@...> wrote: Have you tried doing the alignment on 80/75 per the manual? ?I believe it is set up pretty high in the band.
I agree that you’re probably dealing with old finals based on the high band figures.
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Thu, Apr 4, 2024 at 12:01 PM, Stan Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...> wrote:
I got around to replacing the grid resistors. I get the following
now.
3.5 Mhz -75 watts
3.98 Mhz - 30 watts
7.2 Mhz - 100 watts
14.2 Mhz - 100 watts
21.2 Mhz - 40 watts
28.7 Mhz - 10 watts
Unsure why the power drops off on the upper end of 80/75 meters.
I'm sure the low power on 15 and 10 meters is due to weak finals.
73
Stan
KM4HQE
On 3/31/24 19:11, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
via groups.io wrote:
Check your other bands.
We need to know if your band oscillator is kaput.
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Sun, Mar 31, 2024 at 19:42, Stan Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...>
wrote:
Halfway between
10 and 0.
Yes, checking the oscillator is next on the to do list.
73
Stan
KM4HQE
On 3/31/24 18:38, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io wrote:
> Where is your RF TUNE setting at max?
>
> I'm guessing you have no band oscillator...
>
> Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
>
> Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
>
> Sent with Proton Mail secure email.
>
> On Sunday, March 31st, 2024 at 7:14 PM, Stan Gammons via
groups.io <buttercup11421@...> wrote:
>
>> I have a T-4X which has some odd problems. On 40 meters
it will put out
>> 100 watts, but the output on other bands, 80 for
example is about 50
>> watts. On 75 meters output is like 10 watts. Output on
higher bands is
>> also low. Weak finals? Yeah, I know it's not a real
test, but the
>> Sylvania tubes check good with my B&K 707. The grid
resistors are out of
>> tolerance. One reads 77 ohms and the other reads 84
ohms. I also found
>> that Drake failed to solder C51 which goes from V5 pin
1 to ground. But,
>> I doubt replacing the grid resistors and soldering C51
will fix the
>> problem I have. So, I'm looking at doing an alignment.
My question is
>> what does Drake mean when they say detune T5 and T4 by
touching an
>> insulated screwdriver on the rotor of S4A and S4B?
Touch the
>> screwdriver on the switch shaft in front of those
switch wafers?
>>
>> 73
>>
>> Stan
>> KM4HQE
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
|
No, the rotor contact of the switch wafer.? The reasoning is to not have the various adjustments interact with each other.? You want the broadest possible tuning.
Using a screwdriver was probably the best way in 1965 when they first came up with this procedure.? Since then, many things have changed -- including affordable test equipment that our peers would have drooled over 60 years ago. One of the minor things that got invented since then was the EZ Hook.? I have a bunch of them for jumpering things and such and they are a much safer way of detuning each section as you go through the procedure.? I just leave the other end somewhere where you can't touch it.
The only part of the adjustment that needs this are the parts where the front two caps are adjusted. When you adjust the second-from-front trimmer, you detune the front one, and vice versa.
I solved the insulated screwdriver issue a long time ago by using a regular, small flat-bladed screwdriver and putting a length of shrink tubing over all but the last 1/16" or so of the shaft.? That way, you have a tool that can torque a mica trimmer without bending the blade but also without shorting said blade to the holes through the chassis.
BTW, checking the higher bands at the recommended frequencies may reveal that your finals are better than you think.? That's pretty good output on 20m.
Pay attention to the frequencies where each band is set up.? These are set where they are to give the best output across each band.? Most of the bands are set up in the phone portions.? Ten is done at what was the bottom of the phone band and 160 is done at 1900.? Eighty is set up at 3700.
If any of your adjustments seem to max out a trimmer, then you can measure the slug heights.? I wouldn't bother, otherwise, as long as all of the slugs are at the same height, relative to each other. The best way to check that is to turn the drive until the slugs are just at the top of the coil forms.? They should all be at that height.? I have only ever seen a properly-adjusted transmitter with different-height slugs on the earliest of the T-4, T-4X and R-4 sets and that was corrected pretty early on.
If you need to set a trimmer past max "tight", try moving the rack down (i.e., more inductance) slightly and try again.? If the trimmer is past minimum capacitance, try reducing inductance.? You can only do this a little bit at a time without losing the tuning entirely.? It's more important to have the trimmers set somewhere away from the extremes of their ranges.
This is probably more than you asked for but I've done lots of these and once you get the hang of them and know which parts of the procedures you can change (such as using a scope for carrier balance adjustment), they become second nature.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with secure email.
On Thursday, April 4th, 2024 at 12:44 PM, Stan Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...> wrote:
Hi Steve,
I haven’t tried the 80/75 meter alignment. ?I don’t have the manual in front of me at the moment but I seem to recall it says to use an insulated screwdriver to touch the switch rotor to detune the circuit. ?Do they mean touch the switch shaft?
73
Stan? KM4HQE?
On Thu, Apr 4, 2024 at 11:18 AM, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io <w1es@...> wrote: Have you tried doing the alignment on 80/75 per the manual? ?I believe it is set up pretty high in the band.
I agree that you’re probably dealing with old finals based on the high band figures.
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Thu, Apr 4, 2024 at 12:01 PM, Stan Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...> wrote:
I got around to replacing the grid resistors. I get the following
now.
3.5 Mhz -75 watts
3.98 Mhz - 30 watts
7.2 Mhz - 100 watts
14.2 Mhz - 100 watts
21.2 Mhz - 40 watts
28.7 Mhz - 10 watts
Unsure why the power drops off on the upper end of 80/75 meters.
I'm sure the low power on 15 and 10 meters is due to weak finals.
73
Stan
KM4HQE
On 3/31/24 19:11, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
via groups.io wrote:
Check your other bands.
We need to know if your band oscillator is kaput.
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Sun, Mar 31, 2024 at 19:42, Stan Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...>
wrote:
Halfway between
10 and 0.
Yes, checking the oscillator is next on the to do list.
73
Stan
KM4HQE
On 3/31/24 18:38, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io wrote:
> Where is your RF TUNE setting at max?
>
> I'm guessing you have no band oscillator...
>
> Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
>
> Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
>
> Sent with Proton Mail secure email.
>
> On Sunday, March 31st, 2024 at 7:14 PM, Stan Gammons via
groups.io <buttercup11421@...> wrote:
>
>> I have a T-4X which has some odd problems. On 40 meters
it will put out
>> 100 watts, but the output on other bands, 80 for
example is about 50
>> watts. On 75 meters output is like 10 watts. Output on
higher bands is
>> also low. Weak finals? Yeah, I know it's not a real
test, but the
>> Sylvania tubes check good with my B&K 707. The grid
resistors are out of
>> tolerance. One reads 77 ohms and the other reads 84
ohms. I also found
>> that Drake failed to solder C51 which goes from V5 pin
1 to ground. But,
>> I doubt replacing the grid resistors and soldering C51
will fix the
>> problem I have. So, I'm looking at doing an alignment.
My question is
>> what does Drake mean when they say detune T5 and T4 by
touching an
>> insulated screwdriver on the rotor of S4A and S4B?
Touch the
>> screwdriver on the switch shaft in front of those
switch wafers?
>>
>> 73
>>
>> Stan
>> KM4HQE
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
|
Hi Steve,
I haven’t tried the 80/75 meter alignment. ?I don’t have the manual in front of me at the moment but I seem to recall it says to use an insulated screwdriver to touch the switch rotor to detune the circuit. ?Do they mean touch the switch shaft?
73
Stan? KM4HQE?
On Thu, Apr 4, 2024 at 11:18 AM, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io < w1es@...> wrote: Have you tried doing the alignment on 80/75 per the manual? ?I believe it is set up pretty high in the band.
I agree that you’re probably dealing with old finals based on the high band figures.
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Thu, Apr 4, 2024 at 12:01 PM, Stan Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...> wrote:
I got around to replacing the grid resistors. I get the following
now.
3.5 Mhz -75 watts
3.98 Mhz - 30 watts
7.2 Mhz - 100 watts
14.2 Mhz - 100 watts
21.2 Mhz - 40 watts
28.7 Mhz - 10 watts
Unsure why the power drops off on the upper end of 80/75 meters.
I'm sure the low power on 15 and 10 meters is due to weak finals.
73
Stan
KM4HQE
On 3/31/24 19:11, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
via groups.io wrote:
Check your other bands.
We need to know if your band oscillator is kaput.
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Sun, Mar 31, 2024 at 19:42, Stan Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...>
wrote:
Halfway between
10 and 0.
Yes, checking the oscillator is next on the to do list.
73
Stan
KM4HQE
On 3/31/24 18:38, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io wrote:
> Where is your RF TUNE setting at max?
>
> I'm guessing you have no band oscillator...
>
> Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
>
> Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
>
> Sent with Proton Mail secure email.
>
> On Sunday, March 31st, 2024 at 7:14 PM, Stan Gammons via
groups.io <buttercup11421@...> wrote:
>
>> I have a T-4X which has some odd problems. On 40 meters
it will put out
>> 100 watts, but the output on other bands, 80 for
example is about 50
>> watts. On 75 meters output is like 10 watts. Output on
higher bands is
>> also low. Weak finals? Yeah, I know it's not a real
test, but the
>> Sylvania tubes check good with my B&K 707. The grid
resistors are out of
>> tolerance. One reads 77 ohms and the other reads 84
ohms. I also found
>> that Drake failed to solder C51 which goes from V5 pin
1 to ground. But,
>> I doubt replacing the grid resistors and soldering C51
will fix the
>> problem I have. So, I'm looking at doing an alignment.
My question is
>> what does Drake mean when they say detune T5 and T4 by
touching an
>> insulated screwdriver on the rotor of S4A and S4B?
Touch the
>> screwdriver on the switch shaft in front of those
switch wafers?
>>
>> 73
>>
>> Stan
>> KM4HQE
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
|
Have you tried doing the alignment on 80/75 per the manual? ?I believe it is set up pretty high in the band.
I agree that you’re probably dealing with old finals based on the high band figures.
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Thu, Apr 4, 2024 at 12:01 PM, Stan Gammons via groups.io < buttercup11421@...> wrote:
I got around to replacing the grid resistors. I get the following
now.
3.5 Mhz -75 watts
3.98 Mhz - 30 watts
7.2 Mhz - 100 watts
14.2 Mhz - 100 watts
21.2 Mhz - 40 watts
28.7 Mhz - 10 watts
Unsure why the power drops off on the upper end of 80/75 meters.
I'm sure the low power on 15 and 10 meters is due to weak finals.
73
Stan
KM4HQE
On 3/31/24 19:11, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
via groups.io wrote:
Check your other bands.
We need to know if your band oscillator is kaput.
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Sun, Mar 31, 2024 at 19:42, Stan Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...>
wrote:
Halfway between
10 and 0.
Yes, checking the oscillator is next on the to do list.
73
Stan
KM4HQE
On 3/31/24 18:38, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io wrote:
> Where is your RF TUNE setting at max?
>
> I'm guessing you have no band oscillator...
>
> Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
>
> Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
>
> Sent with Proton Mail secure email.
>
> On Sunday, March 31st, 2024 at 7:14 PM, Stan Gammons via
groups.io <buttercup11421@...> wrote:
>
>> I have a T-4X which has some odd problems. On 40 meters
it will put out
>> 100 watts, but the output on other bands, 80 for
example is about 50
>> watts. On 75 meters output is like 10 watts. Output on
higher bands is
>> also low. Weak finals? Yeah, I know it's not a real
test, but the
>> Sylvania tubes check good with my B&K 707. The grid
resistors are out of
>> tolerance. One reads 77 ohms and the other reads 84
ohms. I also found
>> that Drake failed to solder C51 which goes from V5 pin
1 to ground. But,
>> I doubt replacing the grid resistors and soldering C51
will fix the
>> problem I have. So, I'm looking at doing an alignment.
My question is
>> what does Drake mean when they say detune T5 and T4 by
touching an
>> insulated screwdriver on the rotor of S4A and S4B?
Touch the
>> screwdriver on the switch shaft in front of those
switch wafers?
>>
>> 73
>>
>> Stan
>> KM4HQE
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
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I got around to replacing the grid resistors. I get the following
now.
3.5 Mhz -75 watts
3.98 Mhz - 30 watts
7.2 Mhz - 100 watts
14.2 Mhz - 100 watts
21.2 Mhz - 40 watts
28.7 Mhz - 10 watts
Unsure why the power drops off on the upper end of 80/75 meters.?
I'm sure the low power on 15 and 10 meters is due to weak finals.
73
Stan
KM4HQE
On 3/31/24 19:11, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
via groups.io wrote:
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Show quoted text
Check your other bands.?
We need to know if your band oscillator is kaput.?
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Sun, Mar 31, 2024 at 19:42, Stan Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...>
wrote:
Halfway between
10 and 0.
Yes, checking the oscillator is next on the to do list.
73
Stan
KM4HQE
On 3/31/24 18:38, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io wrote:
> Where is your RF TUNE setting at max?
>
> I'm guessing you have no band oscillator...
>
> Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
>
> Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
>
> Sent with Proton Mail secure email.
>
> On Sunday, March 31st, 2024 at 7:14 PM, Stan Gammons via
groups.io <buttercup11421@...> wrote:
>
>> I have a T-4X which has some odd problems. On 40 meters
it will put out
>> 100 watts, but the output on other bands, 80 for
example is about 50
>> watts. On 75 meters output is like 10 watts. Output on
higher bands is
>> also low. Weak finals? Yeah, I know it's not a real
test, but the
>> Sylvania tubes check good with my B&K 707. The grid
resistors are out of
>> tolerance. One reads 77 ohms and the other reads 84
ohms. I also found
>> that Drake failed to solder C51 which goes from V5 pin
1 to ground. But,
>> I doubt replacing the grid resistors and soldering C51
will fix the
>> problem I have. So, I'm looking at doing an alignment.
My question is
>> what does Drake mean when they say detune T5 and T4 by
touching an
>> insulated screwdriver on the rotor of S4A and S4B?
Touch the
>> screwdriver on the switch shaft in front of those
switch wafers?
>>
>> 73
>>
>> Stan
>> KM4HQE
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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Re: Drake MN 2700 Matching Network for sale
Tom,
No Smoking. No pets in Radio Shack. No repaint. No Mods except repaired shaft for Resistive Knob. No external Balun.
I have the TR7 and PS and several peripherals. I am selling the TR7 soon. And all the peripherals. The MN2700 was in use last month and for the previous 15 years. On and off.
SC?
73
Bill
W4WCS
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Re: Drake MN 2700 Matching Network for sale
Ok bill curiosity? Exposed to pets smoke dampness.? Any cover repaints. ? Any mods.? B-1000 balun available? Last worked with all functionality? Why selling. ?Ur qth.? Talk later. ? ?TU. ? Tom in mass. ?
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On Apr 3, 2024, at 15:19, Bill via groups.io <billnopic@...> wrote:
?Drake MN 2700 Matching Network In very good condition. Maybe a little Windex may help. I am the second owner, No need for me to describe this "tuner". Drake guys are familiar.:-) $300 plus shipping. Also have original manual in perfect condition. $30. BillNoPic@...    
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Someone was seeking a Drake SL1800 Filter for the R7 or TR7,
I have one.
They are going for $80 to $90 on the bargain site.
Mine is $70 shipped in CONUSA.
Gary
W0DVN
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Drake MN 2700 Matching Network for sale
Drake MN 2700 Matching Network In very good condition. Maybe a little Windex may help. I am the second owner, No need for me to describe this "tuner". Drake guys are familiar.:-) $300 plus shipping. Also have original manual in perfect condition. $30. BillNoPic@...    
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Not that I recall. I would loosen the lower cover screws so you can get the top cover to come away easily.
Gary
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On Apr 2, 2024, at 5:30?PM, Rich W3RJ via groups.io <w3rj@...> wrote:
Do you really have to remove the bottom cover before the top part of the case can be removed (so you can get to and replace the meter lamps)?
W3RJ
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Do you really have to remove the bottom cover before the top part of the case can be removed (so you can get to and replace the meter lamps)?
W3RJ
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Joe's answer is correct, but it is worth pointing out that the accuracy of any digital frequency counter display is going to be +/- 1 count. So technically your are still close to spec. With careful adjustment you can get to where the count flips to the next digit very near the right frequency but you still have the accuracy spec. To make it simple, when your display reads 14279.9 that means that you are somewhere between 14279.900... and 14279.9999... and 14280.0 means that you are somewhere between 14280.000... and 14280.0999.... That's not to say that you should not strive for accuracy. Quite the contrary. I reference my frequency counter to a Rubidium standard when I want to get serious and a GPSDO is in my future plans. But we also need to be aware of the limitations of the display. 73 -Jim NU0C On Tue, 2 Apr 2024 07:23:42 -0500 "Dan K9DTC" <k9dtc@...> wrote: Can someone tell me what to adjust on a TR-7 when the freq is slightly off?
My radio tunes 14.279.9 for instance on SSB instead of 14.280.
Dan K9DTC
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Thanks Joe I thought that might be it but I wasn't sure.
Sent from Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
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-------- Original message -------- From: Joe Pyles <epyles@...> Date: 4/2/24 9:31 AM (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] TR-7 freg adjustment
If the rest of the radio is in alignment, adjust L1001 on the
PBT/Reference board which adjusts the 40 mhz oscillator which is divided
down to 500 khz for the display time base.
73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD
At 08:23 AM 4/2/2024, you wrote:
Can someone tell me what to
adjust on a TR-7 when the freq is slightly off? My radio
tunes?? 14.279.9 for instance on SSB instead of
14.280.
?
?
Dan K9DTC
?
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If the rest of the radio is in alignment, adjust L1001 on the
PBT/Reference board which adjusts the 40 mhz oscillator which is divided
down to 500 khz for the display time base.
73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD
At 08:23 AM 4/2/2024, you wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Can someone tell me what to
adjust on a TR-7 when the freq is slightly off? My radio
tunes?? 14.279.9 for instance on SSB instead of
14.280.
?
?
Dan K9DTC
?
|
Can someone tell me what to adjust on a TR-7 when the freq is slightly off? My radio tunes???14.279.9 for instance on SSB instead of 14.280. ? ? Dan K9DTC ?
|
Jim Shorney
Bill
NU2W