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Steve, The values I need are as follows: C225, C250, C251, C252:? ?0.01 mfd C224: 0.001 mfd C223: 120 pf These need to be about the same physical size as those shown in my RV75 pgoto above. Let me

The "classic" ceramics I have have solid green bodies. They have a code on them like "103" (0.01 uF). I don't think I ever replaced a bad one. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit

I have not seen caps like this before, at least that I know of. I have seen some "computer grade" glass body axials that somewhat resembled signal diodes but were clearly caps (not in Drake gear).

I actually don't recall if there were any Tantalums in the RV75. That was sort of a shot across the bow to the Tantalum haters. They have a bad rap due to chronic misapplication. The fact is they

My ears are burning. I have some tubular ceramic capacitors that are probably either 25 or 50 volt parts. These were used on TTL boards extensively in the 1970s. Let me know what values you need. I

Rick: Aha! OK guess that explains why I couldn't get a decent ohmeter reading on the 10K "resistor"! Also explains why I was having trouble with the schematic as well as you. Thanks for discovering

Jim & Peter (aka "Steve ;-) ) Thanks for your speedy and most helpful replies. Slow learner here due to no prior experience in troubleshooting/repairing electronics of the vintage of the RV75. I

Not really. If it is in the position I think it is on the schematic it looks like a bypass cap. I'm guessing it is not too critical. 73 -Jim NU0C "VE7PS" <ve7ps@...> wrote:

Hmmmmm...so Rick...that "broken resistor(?)" in your RV-75 that we thought was a 10 Kohm.....didn't it have a beige body? This complicates things a bit! 73 Peter VE7PS

Based on what Mr. Google is showing me they are axial ceramic capacitors. I'm thinking now that the pink ones are also. That would explain the schematic discrepancies. I don't think I have ever heard

Identifying RV75 capacitors: The components in the photo below include both resistors and capacitors on the RV75 RF & Analog board, with the capacitors having the beige colored body and are designated

You are absolutely right, Jim. I have never forgotten that warning. And that is just one of the? reasons I was shocked when I got the combo shipment.

This is not ham paranoia. Drake documentation EXPLICITLY STATES that the power supply must be removed from the speaker for shipment or damage will occur. 73 -Jim NU0C "K4GM-George" <k4gm@...>

A follow-up to my previous post “RV75 Issues:” Current status following additional trouble shooting time: ? Burned 150 ohm resistor (R218) in PTO ENABLE line on RF & Analog board: so far no cause

Interesting discussion......! While I don't recommend shipping an AC-4 inside an MS-4, it can be done with reduced risk successfully. I proved that 25 years ago with one shipped that way to a ham in

Jerry: Correct......the load control is always adjusting the LOAD cap as it is rotated, regardless of whether it's pushed in or not. Pushing it in just disconnects the meter as a Plate Current Meter

Listmates, The precautions mentioned about shipping an AC-4 and an MS-4? should be heeded.?? About 20 yrs ago a ham on the west coast shipped to me in Virginia an AC-4 mounted inside of an

Hi Peter, Thanks for these great tips.? Can you help me understand how the Load slide function knob works?? Am I correct that is doesn't matter if pushed in or not, the Load knob remains

Jerry: Yes - the slide switch just switches between Plate Current and Relative Output Power. Rotating the LOAD control changes the loading cap and will result in a change in output....likely lower, if

Hi Peter, I will clean the slide switch and report back.? I have to look at the schematic but does the slide switch only affect meter circuit?? Shouldn't I be able to increase the output on the