Re: TR7 Service Kit - Extender Boards Needed
Hi John, I have connectors on order for two sets of extenders.? They should arrive tomorrow.? It appears you can use a set right away and could be a way for me to test the first prototype set I make.? I have a few techs in the EU that have requested a set.? I would prefer to test out a set in the USA before shipping outside the country. Call or write if you like so we can make a deal. John WA1ESO? ? WA1ESO@...? ?401-624-4576
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Re: TR7 Service Kit - Extender Boards Needed
Bear in mind also that it is not difficult to power up individual boards "naked" on the workbench to do some basic troubleshooting. 73 -Jim NU0C On Wed, 15 Mar 2023 09:42:02 -0700 "John B" <wb9fhl@...> wrote: Thanks Dave.? I do plan to do a thorough mechanical cleaning before proceeding with troubleshooting board by board.? Just got to get it on the bench first.
73, John
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Re: TR7 Service Kit - Extender Boards Needed
Absolutely correct Peter. I have never manufactured the extenders. 73 -Jim NU0C On Wed, 15 Mar 2023 08:35:37 -0700 "VE7PS" <ve7ps@...> wrote: Mark:
Jim Shorney can check in later after work....but I do not believe he ever
made TR-7 extender cards to sell to others....or even for himself. That
link on Ron's page refers to extender card sets that were made and sold by
Bob, W7AVK. I met him at a PNWVHFS conference in Moses Lake about 10 years
ago and he had stopped making them at that time, though I believe he had a
few sets left then. Bob's e-mail address is on his QRZ site.
Mike made a pretty limited supply of his excellent boards. I have a set
and they are unique in that there is a separate SINGLE extender for each of
the TR-7 boards, unlike the ones Drake (and others) were (are?) offering.
Not sure what the current status of availability is.
73
Peter
VE7PS
On Wed, Mar 15, 2023 at 6:58?AM Mark - WB0IQK <mgilger@...> wrote:
John,
Have you checked with Jim Shorney? He makes the extender boards. Go to
Ron's web page here:
Drake Membervellia (wb4hfn.com)
<>
Mike Bryce, The Heathkit Shop, also has them. Look on page 14 of the
following link on Ron's website.
Microsoft Word - #62 DRAKE TECH EXCHANGE-2022.doc (wb4hfn.com)
<>
73's,
Mark, WB0IQK
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Re: Need help with the planetary drive on T-4XC
How about installing a Jackson Bros 6:1 ball drive on the sub-panel?? You could even use one of the more rare, dual speed ones, for very precise control.? I've used these on homebrew?VHF amps with great success.? I can't think of why it wouldn't work there as well.? The one Drake used was a very cheap version of the same thing. Bean counter influence, no doubt, as they were around back then.
73 Peter VE7PS
Now I see..? the C-line is different from my A and B lines!
If it does depend on pre-load like you say, you just need a big clamp..? and remove the final cage and tubes.
My biggest clam is not big enough but you get the idea.
Or, nobody says you really need a vernier.? My early T-4X and the up to the early R-4A rigs didn't have them.
I even watched a YouTube recently that the guy bragged about the nice fast adjustment on his early rig!
Just freeze the two shafts somehow, maybe JB Weld or squeezing them?
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
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Re: Need help with the planetary drive on T-4XC
Now I see..? the C-line is different from my A and B lines!
If it does depend on pre-load like you say, you just need a big clamp..? and remove the final cage and tubes.
My biggest clam is not big enough but you get the idea.
Or, nobody says you really need a vernier.? My early T-4X and the up to the early R-4A rigs didn't have them.
I even watched a YouTube recently that the guy bragged about the nice fast adjustment on his early rig!
Just freeze the two shafts somehow, maybe JB Weld or squeezing them?
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
|
Re: Need help with the planetary drive on T-4XC
I am really puzzled now. After closer inspection I am back to having no idea how the preload is set. My initial thought of getting the allen screws into the groove on the main shaft while compressing the spring isn't the answer.That connects the two shafts but it doesn't provide?any preload. It looks like Gary's vernier?would?work since it appears from the pic that the preload on the bearings results from the way they are encapsulated in the shell and the set screws simply attached to the main shaft. If I can locate one like that, do all T-4xx verniers work in all T-4xx transmitters?
On Wed, Mar 15, 2023 at 9:59?AM Bill Leonard N0CU via <billincolo73= [email protected]> wrote: Gary & Steve,
Gary,
1) The 1st pic I sent is the drive disassembled. However,
the only parts missing in the pic are the bearings and
the Allen set screws. Compared to your drive, it does look like it is missing a
cover, however, this style drive does not have the bearings encapsulated.
I just remembered that my R4-C has the same style drive. I
attached a pic to show how it looks fully assembled. This drive is working
fine. I was able to clean the bearings without loosening the set screws so I didn¡¯t
encounter the problem that I am having with the T-4XC drive.
2) The link to the article you referenced no longer works.
The post was from K4OAH (SK). The only info on his website now addresses the service
CD his wife still sells.
3) I figured out what I did wrong with my search of the files
section. I looked over all 184 posts that have the word ¡°vernier¡± and the only
ones that looked like they addressed my problem were also from K4OAH and the
attachments he referenced are no longer shown.
4) The spring is not a work around. It
is what puts the preload on the shafts and bearings so that the small shaft
will turn the large shaft.
Steve,
Since the drive in my R4-C is identical to the one in my
T-4XC, I don¡¯t believe that this one has been worked on. I agree that since
the bearings are unencapsulated, there needs to be a preload to get the
bearings pressed against the race, however, the spring that creates that preload
is so strong that simply pushing against the shaft hardly moves anything. There
needs to be enough force to compress the spring enough so that the set screws
will reach the groove in the main shaft, which is what retains the pre-load on
the entire assembly. I suspect that Drake had some fixture which allowed the
necessary force to be generated. However, this preload needs to be generated with the long shaft (the?one?that moves?the slugs in the coils) attached to the drive since that is the shaft that has the groove which maintains the preload after the Allen screws have been tightened. Where I am stuck is trying to come up with a way to generate the necessary pressure on the spring so that I can tighten the Allen screws. Thanks to both of you for your assistance!
On Wed, Mar 15, 2023 at 6:19?AM Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via <w1es= [email protected]> wrote: That drive looks like it has been worked on before and not properly reassembled. There should be a second part that covers the bearings like in the first photo.
These drives also need a pre-loading, which is why the mounting shaft appears to be at a non 90¡ã angle. The bearings must be pressed against the race for the drive to work.?
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent from Proton Mail for iOS
On Tue, Mar 14, 2023 at 10:02 PM, Bill Leonard N0CU < billincolo73@...> wrote: Gary, Your drive is similar, but noticeably different. Yours appears to have the bearings enclosed in a shell that I am guessing provides the needed pressure to force the outer (larger) shaft to rotate when the inner shaft is rotated. Mine (see pic below) as open bearings. In the current state, the small shaft rotates but does not cause the bearings to rotate, which means the larger shaft does not rotate (pic was taken with the bearings removed). Does the large shaft on your drive rotate when the small shaft is rotated? Earlier I referred to crimp pressure. That is probably not the best way to describe what I was referring to. Inside the large shaft, and at the end of the small shaft there is a spring, which I believe causes the necessary friction to force the ball bearings to rotate. However, it is an extremely stiff spring and I simply cannot get enough force to compress it onto the shaft that moves the slugs in the coils to the point where I can set the Allen screws, so when the small shaft is rotated, nothing happens with the large shaft. The pdf on the drive repair appears to show encapsulated bearings, similar to your drive. I tried searching the files section but didn't find the article you just sent, or any others on vernier drives. What words did you use in your search?
Here is one out of a T-4X. Is yours like this?  ? Gary, I am suspecting that there is a crimp force part to the solution, but if so, I think that the crimp force has to be set with the long shaft attached. That is the shaft that moves the coil slugs. If so, then I wonder if there was a special fixture that Drake used to do it. The reason I say that is as soon as I loosened the Allen set screws, the shafts loosened up and they haven't operated properly since. Hopefully I am not the only one to encounter this problem and that there is a workaround for not having the fixture if one was used. How about some photos. The Drake drive is crimped together by the outside. Getting the crimp force right is the adjustment. 73, Gary WB6OGD ?
Surely there is a youtube video on this somewhere?
73, Jim W7RY
On 3/14/2023 4:49 PM, Bill Leonard N0CU
wrote:
I was trying to free up the RF Drive by cleaning out the old
grease. Made the mistake of loosening the Allen screws. After
getting the bearings back in their holes, the small center shaft
spins freely without turning the large shaft. I noticed that there
is a spring on the end of the small shaft, but I cannot figure out
how to get enough tension on the center shaft to get it to spin
the outer shaft. What am I missing?
--
Bill N0CU
--
Thanks and 73, Jim W7RY
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Re: TR7 Service Kit - Extender Boards Needed
Mark,
Those are dead ends.? Spoke to Bob the other day and he sold off his lot of extender boards years ago, but didn't remember who bought them.? Other avenues have also dried up.??
73,? John
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Re: TR7 Service Kit - Extender Boards Needed
Thanks Pete,? ?Got to get it up on my bench and do a visual and mechanical inspection...hopefully that may reveal an obvious problem.
73, John
|
Re: TR7 Service Kit - Extender Boards Needed
Thanks Dave.? I do plan to do a thorough mechanical cleaning before proceeding with troubleshooting board by board.? Just got to get it on the bench first.
73, John
|
Re: Need help with the planetary drive on T-4XC
Gary & Steve,
Gary,
1) The 1st pic I sent is the drive disassembled. However,
the only parts missing in the pic are the bearings and
the Allen set screws. Compared to your drive, it does look like it is missing a
cover, however, this style drive does not have the bearings encapsulated.
I just remembered that my R4-C has the same style drive. I
attached a pic to show how it looks fully assembled. This drive is working
fine. I was able to clean the bearings without loosening the set screws so I didn¡¯t
encounter the problem that I am having with the T-4XC drive.
2) The link to the article you referenced no longer works.
The post was from K4OAH (SK). The only info on his website now addresses the service
CD his wife still sells.
3) I figured out what I did wrong with my search of the files
section. I looked over all 184 posts that have the word ¡°vernier¡± and the only
ones that looked like they addressed my problem were also from K4OAH and the
attachments he referenced are no longer shown.
4) The spring is not a work around. It
is what puts the preload on the shafts and bearings so that the small shaft
will turn the large shaft.
Steve,
Since the drive in my R4-C is identical to the one in my
T-4XC, I don¡¯t believe that this one has been worked on. I agree that since
the bearings are unencapsulated, there needs to be a preload to get the
bearings pressed against the race, however, the spring that creates that preload
is so strong that simply pushing against the shaft hardly moves anything. There
needs to be enough force to compress the spring enough so that the set screws
will reach the groove in the main shaft, which is what retains the pre-load on
the entire assembly. I suspect that Drake had some fixture which allowed the
necessary force to be generated. However, this preload needs to be generated with the long shaft (the?one?that moves?the slugs in the coils) attached to the drive since that is the shaft that has the groove which maintains the preload after the Allen screws have been tightened. Where I am stuck is trying to come up with a way to generate the necessary pressure on the spring so that I can tighten the Allen screws. Thanks to both of you for your assistance!
On Wed, Mar 15, 2023 at 6:19?AM Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via <w1es= [email protected]> wrote: That drive looks like it has been worked on before and not properly reassembled. There should be a second part that covers the bearings like in the first photo.
These drives also need a pre-loading, which is why the mounting shaft appears to be at a non 90¡ã angle. The bearings must be pressed against the race for the drive to work.?
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent from Proton Mail for iOS
On Tue, Mar 14, 2023 at 10:02 PM, Bill Leonard N0CU < billincolo73@...> wrote: Gary, Your drive is similar, but noticeably different. Yours appears to have the bearings enclosed in a shell that I am guessing provides the needed pressure to force the outer (larger) shaft to rotate when the inner shaft is rotated. Mine (see pic below) as open bearings. In the current state, the small shaft rotates but does not cause the bearings to rotate, which means the larger shaft does not rotate (pic was taken with the bearings removed). Does the large shaft on your drive rotate when the small shaft is rotated? Earlier I referred to crimp pressure. That is probably not the best way to describe what I was referring to. Inside the large shaft, and at the end of the small shaft there is a spring, which I believe causes the necessary friction to force the ball bearings to rotate. However, it is an extremely stiff spring and I simply cannot get enough force to compress it onto the shaft that moves the slugs in the coils to the point where I can set the Allen screws, so when the small shaft is rotated, nothing happens with the large shaft. The pdf on the drive repair appears to show encapsulated bearings, similar to your drive. I tried searching the files section but didn't find the article you just sent, or any others on vernier drives. What words did you use in your search?
Here is one out of a T-4X. Is yours like this?  ? Gary, I am suspecting that there is a crimp force part to the solution, but if so, I think that the crimp force has to be set with the long shaft attached. That is the shaft that moves the coil slugs. If so, then I wonder if there was a special fixture that Drake used to do it. The reason I say that is as soon as I loosened the Allen set screws, the shafts loosened up and they haven't operated properly since. Hopefully I am not the only one to encounter this problem and that there is a workaround for not having the fixture if one was used. How about some photos. The Drake drive is crimped together by the outside. Getting the crimp force right is the adjustment. 73, Gary WB6OGD ?
Surely there is a youtube video on this somewhere?
73, Jim W7RY
On 3/14/2023 4:49 PM, Bill Leonard N0CU
wrote:
I was trying to free up the RF Drive by cleaning out the old
grease. Made the mistake of loosening the Allen screws. After
getting the bearings back in their holes, the small center shaft
spins freely without turning the large shaft. I noticed that there
is a spring on the end of the small shaft, but I cannot figure out
how to get enough tension on the center shaft to get it to spin
the outer shaft. What am I missing?
--
Bill N0CU
--
Thanks and 73, Jim W7RY
|
Re: Need help with the planetary drive on T-4XC
On Wed, Mar 15, 2023 at 05:18 AM, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 wrote:
These drives also need a pre-loading, which is why the mounting shaft appears to be at a non 90¡ã angle. The bearings must be pressed against the race for the drive to work.?
I don't think so.? Unless the shaft is worn like shown in the article I attached above. The non 90degree mounting shaft is just so it can fit the hole in the chassis and allow it to be bent as needed by manufacturing tolerances. The one I show in my hand seems to work fine out of the radio without any pre-load.? It does feel like it has a little "notchiness" so its not totally smooth. I think.... 73, Gary WB6OGD
|
Re: TR7 Service Kit - Extender Boards Needed
Mark:
Jim Shorney can check in later after work....but I do not believe he ever made TR-7 extender cards to sell to others....or even for himself.? That link on Ron's page refers to extender card sets that were made and sold by Bob, W7AVK.? I met him at a PNWVHFS conference in Moses Lake about 10 years ago and he had stopped making them at that time, though I believe he had a few sets left then.? Bob's e-mail address is on his QRZ site.
Mike made a pretty?limited supply of his excellent boards.? I have a set and they are unique in that there is a separate SINGLE extender for each of the TR-7 boards, unlike the ones Drake (and others) were (are?) offering.? Not sure what the current status of availability?is.
73 Peter VE7PS
On Wed, Mar 15, 2023 at 6:58?AM Mark - WB0IQK < mgilger@...> wrote: John,
Have you checked with Jim Shorney?? He makes the extender boards. Go to Ron's web page here:
Mike Bryce, The Heathkit Shop,? also has them. Look on page 14 of the following link on Ron's website.?
73's,
Mark, WB0IQK
|
Re: DRAKE MN-2000 Ceramic wafer replacement/repair for Antenna Selector Switch help?
Interesting and timely thread!? I'm working on a homebrew legal-limit antenna tuner that an old friend of mine started building years ago but did not finish before he passed away in 2018.? I need a rotary switch to use as the antenna selector.? I found this one on eBay -- ? -- and it seems like it should do the job.? Would this one be a good choice??
|
Re: TR7 Service Kit - Extender Boards Needed
John,
Have you checked with Jim Shorney?? He makes the extender boards. Go to Ron's web page here:
Mike Bryce, The Heathkit Shop,? also has them. Look on page 14 of the following link on Ron's website.?
73's,
Mark, WB0IQK
|
Re: Need help with the planetary drive on T-4XC
That drive looks like it has been worked on before and not properly reassembled. There should be a second part that covers the bearings like in the first photo.
These drives also need a pre-loading, which is why the mounting shaft appears to be at a non 90¡ã angle. The bearings must be pressed against the race for the drive to work.?
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent from Proton Mail for iOS
On Tue, Mar 14, 2023 at 10:02 PM, Bill Leonard N0CU < billincolo73@...> wrote: Gary, Your drive is similar, but noticeably different. Yours appears to have the bearings enclosed in a shell that I am guessing provides the needed pressure to force the outer (larger) shaft to rotate when the inner shaft is rotated. Mine (see pic below) as open bearings. In the current state, the small shaft rotates but does not cause the bearings to rotate, which means the larger shaft does not rotate (pic was taken with the bearings removed). Does the large shaft on your drive rotate when the small shaft is rotated? Earlier I referred to crimp pressure. That is probably not the best way to describe what I was referring to. Inside the large shaft, and at the end of the small shaft there is a spring, which I believe causes the necessary friction to force the ball bearings to rotate. However, it is an extremely stiff spring and I simply cannot get enough force to compress it onto the shaft that moves the slugs in the coils to the point where I can set the Allen screws, so when the small shaft is rotated, nothing happens with the large shaft. The pdf on the drive repair appears to show encapsulated bearings, similar to your drive. I tried searching the files section but didn't find the article you just sent, or any others on vernier drives. What words did you use in your search?
Here is one out of a T-4X. Is yours like this?  ? Gary, I am suspecting that there is a crimp force part to the solution, but if so, I think that the crimp force has to be set with the long shaft attached. That is the shaft that moves the coil slugs. If so, then I wonder if there was a special fixture that Drake used to do it. The reason I say that is as soon as I loosened the Allen set screws, the shafts loosened up and they haven't operated properly since. Hopefully I am not the only one to encounter this problem and that there is a workaround for not having the fixture if one was used. How about some photos. The Drake drive is crimped together by the outside. Getting the crimp force right is the adjustment. 73, Gary WB6OGD ?
Surely there is a youtube video on this somewhere?
73, Jim W7RY
On 3/14/2023 4:49 PM, Bill Leonard N0CU
wrote:
I was trying to free up the RF Drive by cleaning out the old
grease. Made the mistake of loosening the Allen screws. After
getting the bearings back in their holes, the small center shaft
spins freely without turning the large shaft. I noticed that there
is a spring on the end of the small shaft, but I cannot figure out
how to get enough tension on the center shaft to get it to spin
the outer shaft. What am I missing?
--
Bill N0CU
--
Thanks and 73, Jim W7RY
|
Re: What are the differances between the T4X and the T4XB
The bottom line was that this was not documented. One would need to insert the new??layout of the switch onto the latest T-4X schematic. It would probably be simpler to take the B schematic and redo the PTO as the older?bipolar transistor circuit.?
I can remember writing ECO¡¯s back in the day and changing the vellum master schematics, which it appears is how Drake also did changes.?
The filters, although different, looked the same on either schematic.?
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent from Proton Mail for iOS
On Wed, Mar 15, 2023 at 00:33, wb6ogd < garywinblad@...> wrote: Very interesting Steve.
I happen to have 3 T-4X's here.? Each one has a different mode switch!
They seem to be from 3 different production runs.
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
?
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Re: TR7 Service Kit - Extender Boards Needed
If it counts up but eventually stops, it could be the transformer core (T2101) on the power supply regulator board.? Its a two piece core and I have had the top half fall out, which kills the +24V power supply.
|
Re: What are the differances between the T4X and the T4XB
Very interesting Steve.
I happen to have 3 T-4X's here.? Each one has a different mode switch!
They seem to be from 3 different production runs.
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
?
|
Re: Need help with the planetary drive on T-4XC
Bill,
I just searched for "vernier".
Look for this one:
Repair and Fabrication of a Preselector Vernier Drive
Shows how one guy fixed his which must have looked like yours.
I am guessing that the T-4XC is the same as my T-4X and T-4XB however.
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
On 03/14/2023 10:02 PM Bill Leonard N0CU <billincolo73@...> wrote:
Gary,
Your drive is similar, but noticeably?different. Yours appears to have the bearings enclosed in a shell that I am guessing provides the needed pressure to force the outer (larger) shaft to rotate when the inner shaft is rotated. Mine (see pic below) as open bearings. In the current state, the small shaft rotates but does not cause the bearings to rotate, which means the larger shaft does not rotate (pic was taken with the bearings removed). Does the large shaft on your drive rotate when the small shaft is rotated?
Earlier I referred to crimp pressure. That is probably not the best?way to describe what I was referring to. Inside the large shaft, and at the end of the small shaft there is a spring, which I believe causes the necessary friction to force the ball bearings to rotate. However, it is an extremely stiff spring and I simply cannot get enough force to compress it onto?the shaft that moves the slugs in the coils to the point where I?can set the?Allen screws, so when the small shaft is rotated, nothing happens with the large shaft.
The pdf on the drive repair appears to show encapsulated bearings, similar to your drive.
I tried searching the files section but didn't find the article?you just sent, or any others on vernier drives. What words did you use in your search?
Here is one out of a T-4X.? Is yours like
this?
 ?Sent from my iPhone
Gary,
I am suspecting that there is a crimp force part to the solution, but if so, I think that the crimp force has to be set with the long shaft attached. That is the shaft that moves the coil slugs. If so, then I wonder if there was a special fixture that Drake used to do it. The reason I say that is as soon as I loosened the Allen set screws, the shafts loosened up and they haven't operated properly since. Hopefully I am not the only one to encounter this problem and that there is a workaround for not having the fixture if one was used.
How about some photos.
The Drake drive is crimped together by the
outside.? Getting the crimp force right is the?
adjustment.
73,
Gary?
WB6OGD?
Surely there is a youtube video on this somewhere?
73, Jim W7RY
On 3/14/2023 4:49 PM, Bill Leonard N0CU wrote:
I was trying to free up the RF Drive by cleaning out the old grease. Made the mistake of loosening the Allen screws. After getting the bearings back in their holes, the small center shaft spins freely without turning the large shaft. I noticed that there is a spring on the end of the small shaft, but I cannot figure out how to get enough tension on the center shaft to get it to spin the outer shaft. What am I missing?
--?
Bill N0CU
--
Thanks and 73, Jim W7RY
|
Re: Need help with the planetary drive on T-4XC
Bill,
It looks like you are missing half of your drive!
Your photo looks like mine when dissassembled and half is gone.
Look in the Files section, there is an article on how someone fixed his by building the parts
you are missing in plastic (I think).
Your spring must be someones work-around to sort of fix it.
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
On 03/14/2023 10:02 PM Bill Leonard N0CU <billincolo73@...> wrote:
Gary,
Your drive is similar, but noticeably?different. Yours appears to have the bearings enclosed in a shell that I am guessing provides the needed pressure to force the outer (larger) shaft to rotate when the inner shaft is rotated. Mine (see pic below) as open bearings. In the current state, the small shaft rotates but does not cause the bearings to rotate, which means the larger shaft does not rotate (pic was taken with the bearings removed). Does the large shaft on your drive rotate when the small shaft is rotated?
Earlier I referred to crimp pressure. That is probably not the best?way to describe what I was referring to. Inside the large shaft, and at the end of the small shaft there is a spring, which I believe causes the necessary friction to force the ball bearings to rotate. However, it is an extremely stiff spring and I simply cannot get enough force to compress it onto?the shaft that moves the slugs in the coils to the point where I?can set the?Allen screws, so when the small shaft is rotated, nothing happens with the large shaft.
The pdf on the drive repair appears to show encapsulated bearings, similar to your drive.
I tried searching the files section but didn't find the article?you just sent, or any others on vernier drives. What words did you use in your search?
Here is one out of a T-4X.? Is yours like
this?
 ?Sent from my iPhone
Gary,
I am suspecting that there is a crimp force part to the solution, but if so, I think that the crimp force has to be set with the long shaft attached. That is the shaft that moves the coil slugs. If so, then I wonder if there was a special fixture that Drake used to do it. The reason I say that is as soon as I loosened the Allen set screws, the shafts loosened up and they haven't operated properly since. Hopefully I am not the only one to encounter this problem and that there is a workaround for not having the fixture if one was used.
How about some photos.
The Drake drive is crimped together by the
outside.? Getting the crimp force right is the?
adjustment.
73,
Gary?
WB6OGD?
Surely there is a youtube video on this somewhere?
73, Jim W7RY
On 3/14/2023 4:49 PM, Bill Leonard N0CU wrote:
I was trying to free up the RF Drive by cleaning out the old grease. Made the mistake of loosening the Allen screws. After getting the bearings back in their holes, the small center shaft spins freely without turning the large shaft. I noticed that there is a spring on the end of the small shaft, but I cannot figure out how to get enough tension on the center shaft to get it to spin the outer shaft. What am I missing?
--?
Bill N0CU
--
Thanks and 73, Jim W7RY
|
Jim Shorney
Gary WB6OGD
