Re: OT: Looking for help with Kenwood Handheld
When I used to work on computer motherboards, the memory batteries
were of different sizes and shapes.
I found a battery holder source, maybe in China?
As long as it would fit the board it worked fine.
Just make sure of the battery voltage.
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Hello everyone, I’m trying to get a RV-3 and a RV-4 working again. When I put the VFO in receive only it causes the radio to trip into transmit in a cycling manner. ?I cleaned wafer switch very well. Has anyone had this issue before?? ?Thanks for any input. 73 Tony N5DIM
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Re: "I Never Should Have Gotten Rid Of......
I got a note tonight from Terry Perdue K8TP that some of us are ordering his CD through PayPal (me included), and if you use the F&F mode Paypal is not sending him your address. I thought it always sent the sender's address to the funds recipient, but no.
?
So, please include a specific note to Terry with your PayPal payment indicating where you want your CD mailed.
?
Dave
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Sorry, that was supposed to be an off list email.
Stan
On 5/21/25 21:27, Stan Gammons via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Ok.
Do you have a PayPal account?
73
Stan
KM4HQE
On 5/21/25 19:34, Ronnie Hull - W5SUM
via groups.io wrote:
$28?
Ronnie
?
I have an R-4B also. ?I need to go through
the alignment procedure to see if that is what’s causing
the T-4XB to not put out good power when the receiver is
used for frequency control. ?I just thought pairing the
2-B with the T-4XB would be something to try and see how
it worked. ?It won’t transceive but they will work
together. ?Getting them on the same frequency might be a
problem. Using spot should help me get close. ?I can’t
hear any closer than about 100 cycles though.
Thanks to everyone that replied.
73
Stan?
KM4HQE
On Wed, May 21, 2025 at 4:43 PM, K5DH via groups.io < mustang_maniac@...>
wrote:
I agree with Gary.? A nice 2-B and a nice R-4B can
both be bought for around $200.? I own both.? While
the 2-B is a very good receiver and I like it a lot,
the R-4B is even better and I like it even more.? If I
had to settle for just one of those two, it would be
the R-4B.? My R-4B is my go-to receiver to use with
classic and homebrew CW transmitters.?
--
73,
Dean K5DH
Port Charlotte, Florida
|
Ok.
Do you have a PayPal account?
73
Stan
KM4HQE
On 5/21/25 19:34, Ronnie Hull - W5SUM
via groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
$28?
Ronnie
?
I have an R-4B also. ?I need to go through
the alignment procedure to see if that is what’s causing
the T-4XB to not put out good power when the receiver is
used for frequency control. ?I just thought pairing the
2-B with the T-4XB would be something to try and see how
it worked. ?It won’t transceive but they will work
together. ?Getting them on the same frequency might be a
problem. Using spot should help me get close. ?I can’t
hear any closer than about 100 cycles though.
Thanks to everyone that replied.
73
Stan?
KM4HQE
On Wed, May 21, 2025 at 4:43 PM, K5DH via groups.io < mustang_maniac@...>
wrote:
I agree with Gary.? A nice 2-B and a nice R-4B can
both be bought for around $200.? I own both.? While the
2-B is a very good receiver and I like it a lot, the
R-4B is even better and I like it even more.? If I had
to settle for just one of those two, it would be the
R-4B.? My R-4B is my go-to receiver to use with classic
and homebrew CW transmitters.?
--
73,
Dean K5DH
Port Charlotte, Florida
|
Re: Supercapacitors - Possible anti-surge device to protect filaments/ heaters
Not much to do with anti-surge devices, but the supercapacitors reminded me of...
I did something with batteries. I wanted to power a near legal-limit linear
off 125V. So I modified a Panasonic lithium ion battery pack to output
just over 50V. 13S4P. ( 13 in series, four in parallel ).
That's a *lot* of battery for not much cash.
I figured that the battery would discharge during transmit, and recharge during receive.
I abandoned that idea when I found that the linear would output up to 1200W running off a 125VAC socket with
just the power supply. And I decided that it probably wasn't a good idea to keep a bomb in the shack.
- Jerry, KF6VB
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Re: Supercapacitors - Possible anti-surge device to protect filaments/ heaters
I'm not following the intent here.? The power-on surge is a surge in current.? Capacitors are voltage devices, primarily.? Please elaborate.
?
Eric
WK3B
|
?
Hey Ronnie,
?
Is that "$28" a reply to my question of how much you want for your 2-BQ?? It seems like a good price.? I do not know what they go for these days, but it seems like even a low price.? If you're selling it, that price fits in my budget and I would be happy to buy it (I assume I pay for shipping, of course).? If your "$28" is referring to something else, then, sorry - excuse me for the interruption.
?
Richard
W2ONE
?
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On May 21, 2025, at 6:02?PM, Stan Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...> wrote:
? I have an R-4B also. ?I need to go through the alignment procedure to see if that is what’s causing the T-4XB to not put out good power when the receiver is used for frequency control. ?I just thought pairing the 2-B with the T-4XB would be something to try and see how it worked. ?It won’t transceive but they will work together. ?Getting them on the same frequency might be a problem. Using spot should help me get close. ?I can’t hear any closer than about 100 cycles though.
Thanks to everyone that replied.
73
Stan? KM4HQE
On Wed, May 21, 2025 at 4:43 PM, K5DH via groups.io < mustang_maniac@...> wrote:
I agree with Gary.? A nice 2-B and a nice R-4B can both be bought for around $200.? I own both.? While the 2-B is a very good receiver and I like it a lot, the R-4B is even better and I like it even more.? If I had to settle for just one of those two, it would be the R-4B.? My R-4B is my go-to receiver to use with classic and homebrew CW transmitters.?
--
73,
Dean K5DH
Port Charlotte, Florida
|
I have an R-4B also. ?I need to go through the alignment procedure to see if that is what’s causing the T-4XB to not put out good power when the receiver is used for frequency control. ?I just thought pairing the 2-B with the T-4XB would be something to try and see how it worked. ?It won’t transceive but they will work together. ?Getting them on the same frequency might be a problem. Using spot should help me get close. ?I can’t hear any closer than about 100 cycles though.
Thanks to everyone that replied.
73
Stan? KM4HQE
On Wed, May 21, 2025 at 4:43 PM, K5DH via groups.io < mustang_maniac@...> wrote:
I agree with Gary.? A nice 2-B and a nice R-4B can both be bought for around $200.? I own both.? While the 2-B is a very good receiver and I like it a lot, the R-4B is even better and I like it even more.? If I had to settle for just one of those two, it would be the R-4B.? My R-4B is my go-to receiver to use with classic and homebrew CW transmitters.?
--
73,
Dean K5DH
Port Charlotte, Florida
|
Re: Another TR-3 s/n 1329
The TR3's 100Khz calibrator signal can be checked at pin 1 of V7.
If your scope can display the frequency of the signal, connect the
scope probe (probe initially set to x10) to pin 1 of V7. Turn the
calibrator
ON and if the calibrator signal is there, the scope should display
the sine wave and 100Khz frequency. If the signal at pin 1 of V7 is
low,
switch the probe to x1.
I found my TR3's calibrator top be right on 100Khz.
Loss of receiver quite often is caused by the VFO not working.
My TR3 had no receive and with the calibrator turned ON, I heard
a very low level tone (SIDE BAND set to "X"). That tone did not
change when tuning the TR3's VFO.
Measure the voltage at the positive terminal of? C145B (see picture
below).
There should be "+250VDC". If you don't see +250VDC at C145B
positive terminal, check R111 3.3K 1/2W resistor. R111 connects
between
the top of the 2 small PC board to the right of can capacitor C145
and next
to the audio transformer. R111 is 3.3K 1/2W, color band
Orange/Orange/Red
with Silver 10% tolerance. If R111 is open then there will be no B+
to
V16 6GX6 (Product Detector/BFO oscillator) and to both stages of
V18. Lost
of +250VDC to the Product Detector/BFO oscillator will result in
loss of
receive.
Measure voltage at C145A, you should see regulated +150VDC (see
location
of C145A in the picture below).
73
Mike W5RKL
On 5/21/25 4:28 PM, n4buq via groups.io
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I had a constant tone when I engaged the Calibrator in my TR-4. It can be caused by the carrier oscillator not being set properly.
Barry - N4BUQ
I find myself with another TR-3 that I was not expecting.
I arrived at my Hamvention booth Saturday morning to find a TR-3 sitting
there.
A fellow booth person who is local to Dayton brought it to me and said $50.
I wasn't looking for one but said OK.
He said he hasn't looked at it in about 15 years and remembers that it
does not work.
I have confirmed that it does not work!
At least no snap, crackle, pop or smoke when powered up.
Tubes and meter lights do light up.
Audio is low to start and after 5 minutes there is almost no audio.
No change in noise when the RF tune knob is rotated on any band.
RF gain does work and s meter responds higher as gain is turned down.
When put in CAL position there is a constant low frequency tone
everywhere on any band.
No RX signals anywhere even with my TS590 at 100 watts into a dummy load
sitting next to it.
When put in X-SSB to tune there is no plate current on any band.
I am using the same power supply as I do with my other TR-3 so that
should be OK.
Time to open it up and look at the tubes first and go from there.
Your thoughts, suggestions and guidance are appreciated as always.
Dave,
KC3AM
|
I agree with Gary.? A nice 2-B and a nice R-4B can both be bought for around $200.? I own both.? While the 2-B is a very good receiver and I like it a lot, the R-4B is even better and I like it even more.? If I had to settle for just one of those two, it would be the R-4B.? My R-4B is my go-to receiver to use with classic and homebrew CW transmitters.?
--
73,
Dean K5DH
Port Charlotte, Florida
|
Re: Another TR-3 s/n 1329
I had a constant tone when I engaged the Calibrator in my TR-4. It can be caused by the carrier oscillator not being set properly.
Barry - N4BUQ
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I find myself with another TR-3 that I was not expecting.
I arrived at my Hamvention booth Saturday morning to find a TR-3 sitting
there.
A fellow booth person who is local to Dayton brought it to me and said $50.
I wasn't looking for one but said OK.
He said he hasn't looked at it in about 15 years and remembers that it
does not work.
I have confirmed that it does not work!
At least no snap, crackle, pop or smoke when powered up.
Tubes and meter lights do light up.
Audio is low to start and after 5 minutes there is almost no audio.
No change in noise when the RF tune knob is rotated on any band.
RF gain does work and s meter responds higher as gain is turned down.
When put in CAL position there is a constant low frequency tone
everywhere on any band.
No RX signals anywhere even with my TS590 at 100 watts into a dummy load
sitting next to it.
When put in X-SSB to tune there is no plate current on any band.
I am using the same power supply as I do with my other TR-3 so that
should be OK.
Time to open it up and look at the tubes first and go from there.
Your thoughts, suggestions and guidance are appreciated as always.
Dave,
KC3AM
|
Re: Another TR-3 s/n 1329
The RV3 socket pins that need to be connected when the RV3 is not
plugged into the
"J2" on the bottom of the TR3, are pins 2 and 8. Look at the TR3
schematic, J2 clearly
shows the dotted lines between pins 2 and 8. Those dotted lines
represent the
male plug with pins 2 and 8 shorted together. I've seen a jumper
wire connected between
pins 2 and 8 on the female socket with the wire routed over the
female socket. Don't know
who came up with that idea but I removed it from my TR3. I use an 8
pin jumper plug with
pins 2 and 8 shorted when my RV3 is not plugged into the bottom of
the TR3.
Shorting pin 2 to 8, pin 8 is "ground", turns the TR3 VFO "ON".
Without the jumper the VFO
doesn't work.
73
Mike W5RKL
On 5/21/25 3:47 PM, Barry KJ5GQM via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Dave,
There's a jumper on the
remote VFO connector on the bottom of the radio that is cut to
enable the radio to work with the remote VFO.? Make sure that
jumper is still there.? It should be under the connector
between two pins.? I don't remember which pins but if you have
a manual look at the section about using the radio with the
remote VFO and it explains it.? Your symptoms sound similar to
how the radio will (not) work without that jumper.?
Barry
KJ5GQM
On Wednesday, May 21, 2025 at 03:33:04 PM CDT, Dave
Stepnowski KC3AM via groups.io
<kc3am@...> wrote:
I find myself with another TR-3 that I was
not expecting.
I arrived at my Hamvention booth Saturday
morning to find a TR-3 sitting
there.
A fellow booth person who is local to
Dayton brought it to me and said $50.
I wasn't looking for one but said OK.
He said he hasn't looked at it in about 15
years and remembers that it
does not work.
I have confirmed that it does not work!
At least no snap, crackle, pop or smoke
when powered up.
Tubes and meter lights do light up.
Audio is low to start and after 5 minutes
there is almost no audio.
No change in noise when the RF tune knob is
rotated on any band.
RF gain does work and s meter responds
higher as gain is turned down.
When put in CAL position there is a
constant low frequency tone
everywhere on any band.
No RX signals anywhere even with my TS590
at 100 watts into a dummy load
sitting next to it.
When put in X-SSB to tune there is no plate
current on any band.
I am using the same power supply as I do
with my other TR-3 so that
should be OK.
Time to open it up and look at the tubes
first and go from there.
Your thoughts, suggestions and guidance are
appreciated as always.
Dave,
KC3AM
|
Re: Another TR-3 s/n 1329
Dave, There's a jumper on the remote VFO connector on the bottom of the radio that is cut to enable the radio to work with the remote VFO.? Make sure that jumper is still there.? It should be under the connector between two pins.? I don't remember which pins but if you have a manual look at the section about using the radio with the remote VFO and it explains it.? Your symptoms sound similar to how the radio will (not) work without that jumper.?
Barry KJ5GQM
On Wednesday, May 21, 2025 at 03:33:04 PM CDT, Dave Stepnowski KC3AM via groups.io <kc3am@...> wrote:
I find myself with another TR-3 that I was not expecting.
I arrived at my Hamvention booth Saturday morning to find a TR-3 sitting
there.
A fellow booth person who is local to Dayton brought it to me and said $50.
I wasn't looking for one but said OK.
He said he hasn't looked at it in about 15 years and remembers that it
does not work.
I have confirmed that it does not work!
At least no snap, crackle, pop or smoke when powered up.
Tubes and meter lights do light up.
Audio is low to start and after 5 minutes there is almost no audio.
No change in noise when the RF tune knob is rotated on any band.
RF gain does work and s meter responds higher as gain is turned down.
When put in CAL position there is a constant low frequency tone
everywhere on any band.
No RX signals anywhere even with my TS590 at 100 watts into a dummy load
sitting next to it.
When put in X-SSB to tune there is no plate current on any band.
I am using the same power supply as I do with my other TR-3 so that
should be OK.
Time to open it up and look at the tubes first and go from there.
Your thoughts, suggestions and guidance are appreciated as always.
Dave,
KC3AM
|
Re: Another TR-3 s/n 1329
Dave,
is the RV3 jumper plug with pins 2 and 8 shorted, plugged into the
bottom of the TR3's RV3 socket? Some TR3s have a solid wire
soldered to pins 2 and 8 with the wire routed across the female
side of the RV3 socket. I removed that wire then made up a
jumper plug with pins 2 and 8 shorted together.
Check at C145B and R111 for +250VDC LV.
Check pin 1 of V20 OA2 for +150VDC.
Loss of either those 2 voltages and the missing RV3 jumper plug
with pins 2 and 8 shorted will result in no receive and no transmit
and a constant low level tone with the Calibrator turned ON and no
zero beat tone at 100Khz dial intervals when tuning the VFO.
Also, check for broken wires on the RV3 socket on the bottom of
the TR3. You will have to remove the 2 long sheet metal screws
and hollow metal supports to rotate the RV3 socket to check for
broken wires. I found 2 broken/missing wires in my TR3 on the RV3
socket.
73
Mike W5RKL
On 5/21/25 3:32 PM, Dave Stepnowski
KC3AM via groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I find
myself with another TR-3 that I was not expecting.
I arrived at my Hamvention booth Saturday morning to find a TR-3
sitting there.
A fellow booth person who is local to Dayton brought it to me and
said $50.
I wasn't looking for one but said OK.
He said he hasn't looked at it in about 15 years and remembers
that it does not work.
I have confirmed that it does not work!
At least no snap, crackle, pop or smoke when powered up.
Tubes and meter lights do light up.
Audio is low to start and after 5 minutes there is almost no
audio.
No change in noise when the RF tune knob is rotated on any band.
RF gain does work and s meter responds higher as gain is turned
down.
When put in CAL position there is a constant low frequency tone
everywhere on any band.
No RX signals anywhere even with my TS590 at 100 watts into a
dummy load sitting next to it.
When put in X-SSB to tune there is no plate current on any band.
I am using the same power supply as I do with my other TR-3 so
that should be OK.
Time to open it up and look at the tubes first and go from there.
Your thoughts, suggestions and guidance are appreciated as always.
Dave,
KC3AM
|
I find myself with another TR-3 that I was not expecting.
I arrived at my Hamvention booth Saturday morning to find a TR-3 sitting there.
A fellow booth person who is local to Dayton brought it to me and said $50.
I wasn't looking for one but said OK.
He said he hasn't looked at it in about 15 years and remembers that it does not work.
I have confirmed that it does not work!
At least no snap, crackle, pop or smoke when powered up.
Tubes and meter lights do light up.
Audio is low to start and after 5 minutes there is almost no audio.
No change in noise when the RF tune knob is rotated on any band.
RF gain does work and s meter responds higher as gain is turned down.
When put in CAL position there is a constant low frequency tone everywhere on any band.
No RX signals anywhere even with my TS590 at 100 watts into a dummy load sitting next to it.
When put in X-SSB to tune there is no plate current on any band.
I am using the same power supply as I do with my other TR-3 so that should be OK.
Time to open it up and look at the tubes first and go from there.
Your thoughts, suggestions and guidance are appreciated as always.
Dave,
KC3AM
|
Re: Hanvention tradition...broken
Evan,
Yes, great weather all weekend. I arrived Wednesday night and was at Nick's for dinner Thursday night.
The wind was a little bit to take but we all survived.
I followed this up by a spending Monday at the Air Force museum.
Sorry I missed you Evan. I'll be at booth's 1003 - 1004 again next year.
I also ended up with another TR-3 for $50.
?
Dave KC3AM
|
Supercapacitors - Possible anti-surge device to protect filaments/ heaters
I have been reading about them for electric vehicles (boost and regen braking etc.) so I thought of using them to take the switch-on surge and divert the surge from the filaments.
You would need a high current silicon rectifier, but check that spec for surge current.
I have not put this through tests yet, to montoir the current profile over time to the filaments - just an idea at this stage.
They have a 2.7 volt rating, so 3 in series (8.1V) at 3F each gives you a very small 1F (one Farad) capacitor at 8.1V.?
I bought a 1F 16V electrolytic from a car audio (boom boom) shop for ?10 several years ago. ? I also put a 0.5 ohm resistor in series to limit the current. ? I thought it would stiffen my PS7, but the PS7 was plenty stiff enough.
Nigel Patterson
|
Using a Drake 2B receiver with a T4/T4X<any> transmitter, the
front panel
PASS BAND setting must be in the correct setting otherwise you won't
be
on the same Side Band as the station or ground you are wanting to
join.
The 2B manual discusses the PASS BAND setting on USB or LSB.
Tune in the station or group so they sound natural in the 2B
receiver.
Set the transmitter to SPOT and adjust the VFO so your voice sounds
natural in the 2B receiver as the distant station or group sounds.
Using CW, setting the PASS BAND is the same. Tune in the station and
adjust the PASS BAND (CW is typically in USB) so the tone is how you
want it. Turn on SPOT and adjust the transmitter so the SPOT signal
is
the same tone as the distant station. Do NOT adjust the receiver
so the distant station's tone drops to zero, no beat note in the
receiver's
speaker. Doing that will result in the distant station not hearing
you.
Zero Beat means exactly as it says, the receiver's tuning is
adjusted to
the point where the distant stations receive tone frequency
decreases
to zero, no beat note heard in the speaker. The typical CW beat note
receiver tuning is 700 to 800hz.
Always allow your transmitter and receiver to warm up for at least
30
minutes.
73
Mike W5RKL
On 5/21/25 5:47 AM, Paul Lukosius via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I used a 2-B with a T-4X in the 60s. Worked fine. Didn't
transceive, but back then spotting the transmitter in the
receiver was common.
?
73
Paul, N9PL
|
Ronnie Hull - W5SUM