Re: Using a 2B in a vintage station.
My first rig was a Heathkit HX-10 Marauder with a Drake 2-B and a Dow Key relay. I'm pretty sure that the 2-B got muted from the TX rcvr-mute out of the accessory jack. Just a relay that opens the RCVR bias during TX and grounds it on RX. Never had a problem but certainly no break-in keying with this setup.
DX-20 should have a mute output.
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On 2/11/2025 10:03 PM, Ken VE3FIT via groups.io wrote: I'm planning on using a 2B receiver as part of a vintage station along with a DX-20 transmitter (50W input).
I have a Dow-Key coax relay which has auxillary contacts. If I use those contacts to mute the receiver, will
the 2B front end be well-enough isolated to prevent being damaged?
--
73 de Mike, W1NR
THAT was the equation. EXISTENCE!... SURVIVAL... must cancel out... programming!
- Ruk -
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Re: Drake DSR-2 is looking for a new home
Yes, I live in Switzerland. My asking price would be USD 1500.- including shipping. The original paper service manual is included. Freundliche Gr¨¹?e? Fernando
Mobile gesendet?
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Am 12.02.2025 um 09:26 schrieb Doug WA1TUT via groups.io <sparks06524@...>:
? I'd of course be interested. However it depends upon price. Are you in Switzerland? Shipping to the USA would be somewhat costly.
Doug/WA1TUT
On Wednesday, February 12, 2025 at 03:12:42 AM EST, Fenu HE9FER via groups.io <contact@...> wrote:
Dear friends,
I have a wonderful Drake DSR-2 in excellent condition. It works perfectly.
Would anyone be interested in this device?
?
Best Regards
Fenu
?
-- Doug/WA1TUT
<IMG_0854.JPG>
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Re: Drake DSR-2 is looking for a new home
I'd of course be interested. However it depends upon price. Are you in Switzerland? Shipping to the USA would be somewhat costly.
Doug/WA1TUT
On Wednesday, February 12, 2025 at 03:12:42 AM EST, Fenu HE9FER via groups.io <contact@...> wrote:
Dear friends,
I have a wonderful Drake DSR-2 in excellent condition. It works perfectly.
Would anyone be interested in this device?
?
Best Regards
Fenu
?
-- Doug/WA1TUT
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Drake DSR-2 is looking for a new home
Dear friends,
I have a wonderful Drake DSR-2 in excellent condition. It works perfectly.
Would anyone be interested in this device?
?
Best Regards
Fenu
?
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Re: Drake L4-B no Grid Current.
On Thu, Dec 12, 2024 at 01:31 AM, Richard Knoppow wrote:
>If the power supply has "equalizing" resistors across each cap they usually serve the purpose of preventing any charge from remaining any length of time. Modern electrolytic caps don't need them so they are often removed.
Absolute utter? nonsense.? ?The 100k eq resistor across each lytic is to equalize the V drop across each cap.? 2650 vdc / 800k = 3.3 ma of eq current..... = 8.77 watts total or? 1.09 watts per resistor.
Without the 100k across each cap, the vdrop across each cap is all over the map.
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Re: Drake L4-B no Grid Current.
On Wed, Feb 12, 2025 at 03:12 AM, Jake KE8VGU wrote:
<Would that account for the filament transformer with no voltage on the center yellow tap that goes to the bias?
Yes !? ?At the junction of the plate and grid meter..... it goes off to the CT of the fil xfmr...(with the yellow stripe).? From there it goes out either side to the ends of the fil xfmr sec winding, then through the fil choke...and up to the tube socket? cathode pins 1 + 5.? ?Any bias is inserted in that CT lead....and also the bias cut off resistor. On my L4B's? I used? 10 x 1N5408's? in series for bias....mounted on perf board.? ?That results in? 100ma idle current with 2650 vdc, and? 40 ma idle current in the 1900 vdc position.? ?You should have +7 vdc on the CT? with relay engaged, and? bias cut off resistor shunted.? ?On RX, you should have plenty of bias V, like aprx 35-50 vdc. If that .82 ohm? HV fuse opened up.....? you would be reading zero volts for the HV meter.? ? With no B+ present, and drive applied, you will peg the grid meter with very little drive applied.? You might also might have a grid to cathode short? on one or both tubes.? ?You could test the amp with one tube at a time (and temp block the empty socket so u don't lose airflow ).?
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Re: Drake UV-3 Bulb replacement?
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Using a 2B in a vintage station.
I'm planning on using a 2B receiver as part of a vintage station along with a DX-20 transmitter (50W input).
I have a Dow-Key coax relay which has auxillary contacts. If I use those contacts to mute the receiver, will
the 2B front end be well-enough isolated to prevent being damaged?
It seems that back in the day, we used TR switches that were certainly not Dow-Key and our receivers survived the ordeal.
I've seen old Drake ads that showed the 2B being used with an electronic TR switch for full break-in. Presumably the RX
wasn't being muted.
Thanks for any advice.
?
Ken, VE3FIT
?
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Re: Drake L4-B no Grid Current.
Would that account for the filament transformer with no voltage on the center yello tap that goes to the bias?
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You¡¯re welcome Ed, it¡¯s a classic amp and they are sought after.
Easy to service, responds well to upgrades, built like a tank.?
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On Feb 11, 2025, at 5:54?PM, Ed KG5UN via groups.io <maikranze@...> wrote:
?
Ed......Do you still have the original owner's manual??
....Dave
?
?
Thanks Tom.
I like that number!
Ed
?
If it¡¯s in 100% condition I would ask $1200?
?
Tom W9TAB?
?
?
Steve,
Unfortunately (or fortunately in my opinion) my stove and dryer are gas appliances so no 240 outlets here.
I really dont?want to mess with wiring or rewiring it so I will take it to someone for testing.
Either way I am prepared to make someone a good deal on it when the time comes, I just want it out of my way.
Ed
?
On Tue, Feb 11, 2025 at 12:05?PM Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via
<w1es= [email protected]> wrote:
That price is valid for an L-4B that is cosmetically decent and which works well.? It doesn¡¯t have to be a museum piece but it must work well with at least 1100-1200W out with the switch set to ¡°SSB¡±.? If there¡¯s no way of testing it, you will
probably need to negotiate heavily.
?
One thing to check is the power supply.? If it has the original boards /caps, that¡¯s going to pull the price down. There are other factors, as well.? It would be a good idea to wire it for 120V to test it if you don¡¯t have 240 available.? Don¡¯t
forget, though, that if you have an electric dryer, you have a 30A 240 source. You¡¯d probably need to install the matching plug. ?
?
Steve Wedge, W1ES
?
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
?
?
?
?
On Tue, Feb 11, 2025 at 11:56 AM, Ralph Mowery via < ku4pt@...> wrote:
?
I have one that I bought about 6 or 8 years ago .? I paid $ 1000 for it and it works fine.? Saw a few at hamfests over the last few years and they seem to go for around the same price.? That was? for the amp and power supply.? ?Now that MFJ seems
to be going out of business the prices? for used amps may be going up some.? ?If I was selling my amp I would start around $ 1200 and see if it sells.? Would not go under $ 1000 even if I had to let it sit for a few years.
?
Ralph ku4pt
?
?
?
On Tuesday, February 11, 2025 at 11:04:34 AM EST, Ed KG5UN via <maikranze= [email protected]> wrote:
?
?
I see.
I have been licensed since 1988, active for most of that time and have never owned or?operated an HF amplifier.
Hopefully I can find someone to help me determine exactly what I have.
Ed
KG5UN
Gulfport, MS
?
Ed,
?
That is a fine amplifier.? Pricing depends on cosmetic condition, output power from the tubes, condition of the power supply, and the condition of all the internal components.? Some mods add to the value, while others detract.
?
73,
?
Evan
?
On Tuesday, February 11, 2025 at 10:39:21 AM EST, Ed KG5UN via <maikranze=
[email protected]> wrote:
?
?
I just picked up a Drake L-4B amplifier.
Looks great, but I have no idea if it works. I dont have 220 volts in the shack to hook it up.
I doubt I will keep it so I was wondering if I were to sell it what I should ask for it.
I will find someone to test it before I actually try to sell it.
?
Ed
KG5UN
Gulfport, MS
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
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Ed......Do you still have the original owner's manual??
....Dave
?
?
Thanks Tom.
I like that number!
Ed
?
If it¡¯s in 100% condition I would ask $1200?
?
Tom W9TAB?
?
?
Steve,
Unfortunately (or fortunately in my opinion) my stove and dryer are gas appliances so no 240 outlets here.
I really dont?want to mess with wiring or rewiring it so I will take it to someone for testing.
Either way I am prepared to make someone a good deal on it when the time comes, I just want it out of my way.
Ed
?
On Tue, Feb 11, 2025 at 12:05?PM Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via <w1es= [email protected]> wrote:
That price is valid for an L-4B that is cosmetically decent and which works well.? It doesn¡¯t have to be a museum piece but it must work well with at least 1100-1200W out with the switch set to ¡°SSB¡±.? If there¡¯s no way of testing it, you will probably need to negotiate heavily.
?
One thing to check is the power supply.? If it has the original boards /caps, that¡¯s going to pull the price down. There are other factors, as well.? It would be a good idea to wire it for 120V to test it if you don¡¯t have 240 available.? Don¡¯t forget, though, that if you have an electric dryer, you have a 30A 240 source. You¡¯d probably need to install the matching plug. ?
?
Steve Wedge, W1ES
?
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
?
?
?
?
On Tue, Feb 11, 2025 at 11:56 AM, Ralph Mowery via < ku4pt@...> wrote:
?
I have one that I bought about 6 or 8 years ago .? I paid $ 1000 for it and it works fine.? Saw a few at hamfests over the last few years and they seem to go for around the same price.? That was? for the amp and power supply.? ?Now that MFJ seems to be going out of business the prices? for used amps may be going up some.? ?If I was selling my amp I would start around $ 1200 and see if it sells.? Would not go under $ 1000 even if I had to let it sit for a few years.
?
Ralph ku4pt
?
?
?
On Tuesday, February 11, 2025 at 11:04:34 AM EST, Ed KG5UN via <maikranze= [email protected]> wrote:
?
?
I see.
I have been licensed since 1988, active for most of that time and have never owned or?operated an HF amplifier.
Hopefully I can find someone to help me determine exactly what I have.
Ed
KG5UN
Gulfport, MS
?
Ed,
?
That is a fine amplifier.? Pricing depends on cosmetic condition, output power from the tubes, condition of the power supply, and the condition of all the internal components.? Some mods add to the value, while others detract.
?
73,
?
Evan
?
On Tuesday, February 11, 2025 at 10:39:21 AM EST, Ed KG5UN via <maikranze= [email protected]> wrote:
?
?
I just picked up a Drake L-4B amplifier.
Looks great, but I have no idea if it works. I dont have 220 volts in the shack to hook it up.
I doubt I will keep it so I was wondering if I were to sell it what I should ask for it.
I will find someone to test it before I actually try to sell it.
?
Ed
KG5UN
Gulfport, MS
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
|
Thank you much, Steve!
Scott
|
Those are fibre washers, Scott. ?A little difficult to find but probably available. ?The panel is easy to remove. Keep track of which knobs have no setscrews and return those to the same shafts afterwards. ?Don¡¯t lose 5he little flat springs inside. ?Remove the remaining knobs. The small cover for the relative power out pulls off. Sometimes, you have to use a little oomph. The PTO knob has two setscrews and sits on the skirt via a plastic bushing that has enough give to allow you to hold the skirt whilst turning the knob, to set the frequency. ?You may need to replace it if it has hardened too much. ?Undo the hex nuts found on any controls
Put the rig with the front panel pointing up over a light towel and undo the four corner screws. ?Pull the panel straight up and look at the back of the panel before setting it aside (sometimes the washers/spacers stick to the back of the panel.
If the washers are still on the chassis, just lower the new panel onto them and reattach. ?Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
You may want to wash the new panel and knobs. ?Soap and water. ?Use a toothbrush to clean out the PTO knob¡¯ ridges.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Tue, Feb 11, 2025 at 5:32 PM, Scott N1IA via groups.io < soakland5@...> wrote:
Hello, I have chance to get a new T4XB front panel to replace the one I have which is scratched some.
Is it difficult, and what should I watch out for?? I have the bottom cover off for another reason and see what look like spacers. I'd imagine these are easily dropped inside?
Any advice appreciated.
Thanks
Scott N1IA
|
Replacing that panel is pretty easy, just don¡¯t lose those spacers. Of course you need to remove all of the knobs, and the 4 slotted screws on the corners, but that¡¯s pretty obvious.
The clear plastic dial window will fall away if you remove the front panel with the radio lying down. You should also find a wave washer on the red adjustment peg - don¡¯t lose this either.
Getting the red pointer off the Tune shaft just requires gentle prying but don¡¯t bend it. Use nothing more damaging than a fingernail. Pry a little on one side, then the other
Reassembly is easiest with the radio standing on its back so that gravity holds everything in place. Once you have successfully removed the red Tune pointer, the procedure for putting it back on it will be obvious...
Gary
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On Feb 11, 2025, at 4:32?PM, Scott N1IA via groups.io <soakland5@...> wrote:
Hello, I have chance to get a new T4XB front panel to replace the one I have which is scratched some.
Is it difficult, and what should I watch out for?? I have the bottom cover off for another reason and see what look like spacers. I'd imagine these are easily dropped inside?
Any advice appreciated.
Thanks
Scott N1IA
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Re: Good audio - T4XC and R4C
I am now putting together a T4XB and R4B twin station....and I paired it with a NOS Shure 444D. Looking forward to operating some old school.
73
Scott N1IA
|
Hello, I have chance to get a new T4XB front panel to replace the one I have which is scratched some.
Is it difficult, and what should I watch out for?? I have the bottom cover off for another reason and see what look like spacers. I'd imagine these are easily dropped inside?
Any advice appreciated.
Thanks
Scott N1IA
|
Ed......Do you still have the original owner's manual??
....Dave
On 02/11/2025 3:26 PM EST Ed KG5UN via groups.io <maikranze@...> wrote:
?
?
Thanks Tom.
I like that number!
Ed
?
If it¡¯s in 100% condition I would ask $1200?
?
Tom W9TAB?
?
?
Steve,
Unfortunately (or fortunately in my opinion) my stove and dryer are gas appliances so no 240 outlets here.
I really dont?want to mess with wiring or rewiring it so I will take it to someone for testing.
Either way I am prepared to make someone a good deal on it when the time comes, I just want it out of my way.
Ed
?
On Tue, Feb 11, 2025 at 12:05?PM Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via <w1es= [email protected]> wrote:
That price is valid for an L-4B that is cosmetically decent and which works well.? It doesn¡¯t have to be a museum piece but it must work well with at least 1100-1200W out with the switch set to ¡°SSB¡±.? If there¡¯s no way of testing it, you will probably need to negotiate heavily.
?
One thing to check is the power supply.? If it has the original boards /caps, that¡¯s going to pull the price down. There are other factors, as well.? It would be a good idea to wire it for 120V to test it if you don¡¯t have 240 available.? Don¡¯t forget, though, that if you have an electric dryer, you have a 30A 240 source. You¡¯d probably need to install the matching plug. ?
?
Steve Wedge, W1ES
?
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
?
?
?
?
On Tue, Feb 11, 2025 at 11:56 AM, Ralph Mowery via < ku4pt@...> wrote:
?
I have one that I bought about 6 or 8 years ago .? I paid $ 1000 for it and it works fine.? Saw a few at hamfests over the last few years and they seem to go for around the same price.? That was? for the amp and power supply.? ?Now that MFJ seems to be going out of business the prices? for used amps may be going up some.? ?If I was selling my amp I would start around $ 1200 and see if it sells.? Would not go under $ 1000 even if I had to let it sit for a few years.
?
Ralph ku4pt
?
?
?
On Tuesday, February 11, 2025 at 11:04:34 AM EST, Ed KG5UN via <maikranze= [email protected]> wrote:
?
?
I see.
I have been licensed since 1988, active for most of that time and have never owned or?operated an HF amplifier.
Hopefully I can find someone to help me determine exactly what I have.
Ed
KG5UN
Gulfport, MS
?
Ed,
?
That is a fine amplifier.? Pricing depends on cosmetic condition, output power from the tubes, condition of the power supply, and the condition of all the internal components.? Some mods add to the value, while others detract.
?
73,
?
Evan
?
On Tuesday, February 11, 2025 at 10:39:21 AM EST, Ed KG5UN via <maikranze= [email protected]> wrote:
?
?
I just picked up a Drake L-4B amplifier.
Looks great, but I have no idea if it works. I dont have 220 volts in the shack to hook it up.
I doubt I will keep it so I was wondering if I were to sell it what I should ask for it.
I will find someone to test it before I actually try to sell it.
?
Ed
KG5UN
Gulfport, MS
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
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Well sometimes a break from the task and coming back with fresh eyes helps. ?I didn¡¯t realize it but my function switch was on x-CE closing my transmit relay. I had the radio upside down and never heard it and it¡¯s hard to tell the setting with the radio upside down and no knobs or faceplate on it. ?Good news is my TR-3 has a beautiful passband on either side of the carrier now in my spectrum analyzer. I¡¯m cautiously optimistic about this transplant operation.?
On Tuesday, February 11, 2025 at 03:09:52 PM CST, Barry KJ5GQM via groups.io <chasbg@...> wrote:
I resurrected this thread because I've got a couple of nice TR-3s? with not so good soup can xtal filters.? I also have a wrecked TR-4, mid to early production, with the single filter box.? I think it's made by Network Sciences or something like that.? It's NOT the soup can.? I've made an attempt to transplant this filter into one of the TR-3s.? Specifically I transplanted the filter, selector switch, and both the T-6 and T-13 trimmers with the same resistor across the trimmer posts on the filter side of the trimmers.? On the opposite side of the trimmers I've left everything intact on the TR-3.? There are two leads off the selector switch that are the same as the those from the soup can and connect to the band switch in the same place on both radios.??
?
With this done the radio powers up, there's the usual wait for the tubes to warm, then the familiar sound of receive static starts to emerge from the speaker and then... nothing.? Something in the receive chain shuts down.? The selector lights function and follow the position of the selector switch as they should.? I can power the radio off and turn it back on and get the same series of events.??
?
Not sure where to take this experiment from here.? I have no way of knowing if the TR-4 filter is even any good.? Looking for suggestions or, better yet, some comments from someone that has done this upgrade.
?
Barry
KJ5GQM
|
I resurrected this thread because I've got a couple of nice TR-3s? with not so good soup can xtal filters.? I also have a wrecked TR-4, mid to early production, with the single filter box.? I think it's made by Network Sciences or something like that.? It's NOT the soup can.? I've made an attempt to transplant this filter into one of the TR-3s.? Specifically I transplanted the filter, selector switch, and both the T-6 and T-13 trimmers with the same resistor across the trimmer posts on the filter side of the trimmers.? On the opposite side of the trimmers I've left everything intact on the TR-3.? There are two leads off the selector switch that are the same as the those from the soup can and connect to the band switch in the same place on both radios.??
?
With this done the radio powers up, there's the usual wait for the tubes to warm, then the familiar sound of receive static starts to emerge from the speaker and then... nothing.? Something in the receive chain shuts down.? The selector lights function and follow the position of the selector switch as they should.? I can power the radio off and turn it back on and get the same series of events.??
?
Not sure where to take this experiment from here.? I have no way of knowing if the TR-4 filter is even any good.? Looking for suggestions or, better yet, some comments from someone that has done this upgrade.
?
Barry
KJ5GQM
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Drake UV-3 Bulb replacement?
Is there an approved or recommended procedure or do I have to wing it.
?
Thanks
?
George K4MLB
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Jim Shorney
Thomas W9TAB
Ed KG5UN
Scott N1IA