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Re: Anyone have an R4B dial?
I have one that is also toasted, so not much use.? We need someone here who is skilful with transferring images to other media (plastic) to create some new dials.? I would gladly buy a couple to have on-hand, as well as some correct dials for the C Line. Yes, I said it.? The C Line dials that have been for sale are not acceptable for use as such.? The hole patterns are off but worse is that the 100s dial has tick marks at the same spacing as the 10s dial.? This was a major mistake that renders the 100s dial useless.? If anyone knows the owner of the company providing these, perhaps we could get it fixed. And yes... I would buy a couple of sets to use as spares. 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
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On Tuesday, January 7th, 2025 at 10:43 AM, John K5MO via groups.io <johnk5mo@...> wrote:
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TR7 Replacement LED modules ebay seller FYI
Just an FYI the ebay seller "sell my stuff now" never shipped or responded to my November LED module purchase for the TR7 replacement frequency readout LEDs.? Ebay just refunded my purchase but I wanted the item so just an FYI to others.? Hope the op is okay as don't think anything malicious seller just vanished. |
Re: Mn2000 broken insulator
I'd get one made out of Lexan, Teflon, nylon, etc. from eBay.
On Tuesday, January 7, 2025 at 11:10:00 AM EST, Paul N5NEN via groups.io <n5nen@...> wrote:
The ceramic insulator is 5/8 in. 16mm tall, threaded each end. ?Diameter could vary. Surplus sales does not list one that length. Just 3/4 in. ?The break seems to be old and parts of the ceramic have been lost, so there is little chance I could repair with epoxy. ?Likely hard to remove the screws without further damage. ?Possibly could make new ones with fiberglass dowel. ?3D print??
any other ideas? |
Re: Mn2000 broken insulator
The ceramic insulator is 5/8 in. 16mm tall, threaded each end. ?Diameter could vary. Surplus sales does not list one that length. Just 3/4 in. ?The break seems to be old and parts of the ceramic have been lost, so there is little chance I could repair with epoxy. ?Likely hard to remove the screws without further damage. ?Possibly could make new ones with fiberglass dowel. ?3D print?? any other ideas? |
Anyone have an R4B dial?
My R4B has a "toasted" dial. I've seen them turn out this way when it's left in the sun, but usually only that section that is exposed. This one seems darkened throughout.
Anyone have an extra for sale?? I see Radio Daze has repro's for the C line but not the B. Thanks and HNY John |
Re: Using the PLJ-6LED digital display with the R4C
Hi Bob.? Yes, I discovered that early on.? At 20 meters and above, however, peaking the preselector didn't solve the problem.? While I had carefully aligned the R4C using the Drake recommended technique (soldering in the resistors, etc.), I decided to revisit the alignment this time using Rob Sherwood's suggested technique.? After doing that, the counter works perfectly up to 10 meters, where the injection signal is still apparently too weak.? Next I'll try a buffer amp before the input to the counter.? At any rate, I suggest that anyone using one of these counters with the R4C use Rob's alignment procedure and resolve any issues you find along the way in that procedure.
?
73, Floyd - K8AC |
Re: Using the PLJ-6LED digital display with the R4C
Hi Guys.
I installed the aforementioned freq counters for displays on both a n T-4XC and an R-4C probably 10 years ago. At the risk of pointing out the obvious, you have to re-peak the pre-selector after band changes ( or large frequency changes). If the preselector is detuned, the injector signal is much lower. On my units I lost the display when I changed bands only to have the display return to service after the preselector was tuned. Other than that, they worked and looked great (matter of opinion , I know). Please forgive me if this is overly obvious, but I would have felt bad if I knew the answer and let you guys struggle lol. 73 & Good Luck, Bob. N0GGO |
Re: R-4 AM detector 1N625
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Re: Using the PLJ-6LED digital display with the R4C
On 2025-01-06 14:18, Floyd - K8AC via groups.io wrote:
Thanks, Frank. Most of that I already had, but the charts showing theThis reminds me of a frequency counter I built in high school. It was a simpler age. Lots of 7490 decade counters. My counter was extremely insensitive. I tried to get it more sensitive by biasing the input near the TTL crossing voltage. That worked...to a point. If I got it right at the threshold, it would just go nuts. I came to understand that one of the main things that separates the men from the boys in the world of counters is sensitivity. I was recently tempted by a Chinese AWG with a built-in counter. I cancelled that order when I discovered that the counter needed a couple volts of input AC. Wound up buying an HP5385A. - Jerry, KF6VB |
Re: TR-7A issues part II
If the pushbutton for the PBT is REALLY dirty, you would get something like what you see. Try a bit of contact cleaner on the PBT button and exercise it a few dozen cycles.
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Gary W0DVN On Jan 6, 2025, at 7:37?PM, Jim Shorney via groups.io <jimNU0C@...> wrote: |
Re: TR-7A issues part II
As already mentioned, that suggests that the fixed passband pots are not doing their job. You may be losing voltage somewhere. The service manual does a very good job of explaining how everything works.
On Mon, 06 Jan 2025 17:01:55 -0800 "Craig W8CS via groups.io" <craig_severson@...> wrote: With the PBT button out, the receiver is "dead" and I cannot adjust the values per alignment procedure with the blue pots on top of the PS board. Those have no effect on the frequency I read on the BFO pin 40. -- 73 -Jim NU0C |
Re: Tr7 reduced signal tr7
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI used 1N4007 to replace the pin diodes in the TR7 I have.? They work fine.73 Stan KM4HQE On 1/6/25 09:05, Mike Davidsohn G3ZCC
via groups.io wrote:
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Re: TR-7A issues part II
Jim-
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I think you're on to something.?
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I have carrier that persists after I open the key on CW, and I have carrier being transmitted on SSB. Only a couple of watts of output, sounds awful.?
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The "BFO" pin 40 on the PBT board reads a normal 5.645 MHz reading with the PBT button in, (receive is normal) and it reads 5.6369 MHz with the PBT button out.?
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With the PBT button out, the receiver is "dead" and I cannot adjust the values per alignment procedure with the blue pots on top of the PS board. Those have no effect on the frequency I read on the BFO pin 40.?
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All of the other alignment frequencies are on, i.e. 40.0MHz and 53.695 MHz.?
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Going down this route of logic...thanks for your suggestions!
--
Craig/W8CS
Greenville, SC |
Re: AFG/RFG controls R4C (W1ES)
Yep -- I got that. Looks like there's one of the AF GAIN ones currently on eBay but no concentric one. eBay is where you're going to find them, eventually... Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
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On Monday, January 6th, 2025 at 7:07 PM, Rob Sherwood via groups.io <rob@...> wrote: It was Kurz Kasch who made the knobs for me. ?No longer available.? |
Re: Mn2000 broken insulator
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