Re: Searching for AUX-7 boards¡
I am unable to find anything related to ¡°Drake Aux-7¡± on fairradio.com . ? ? joseph n. graif k4jng ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of David Sent: Saturday, February 3, 2024 11:55 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] Searching for AUX-7 boards¡ ? The aux 7 from Fair Radio is the way to go..? the rest of parts you can get from Mouser or other supply houses.i have used about 10 of these with no issues. David Assaf III
W5XU??? VP8RXU ? On Sat, Feb 3, 2024, 10:49 AM Jim Shorney <jimNU0C@...> wrote:
You will pay a premium price for a genuine AUX-7. A workable substitute that gives you WARC and VLF coverage is what I call the "FAUX-7" board available from Far Circuits. It is a reproduction of a diode matrix AUX-7 replacement published in QST July 1982. You buy the bare board from them and you supply the diodes and connectors. There is also an article I think on on building your own AUX-7 board. Neither of these includes the provision for a fixed frequency crystal, but in all my travels I have only seen almost one person who used this.
73
-Jim
NU0C
On Sat, 03 Feb 2024 01:38:55 -0800
"Joseph K4JNG" <jgraif1@...> wrote:
> I am in the hunt for two AUX-7 boards, for my TR7 and R7. Please help if you are able¡
>
> Best 73,
> joe
> K4JNG
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Re: Plate & Load Shift Couplers
Seems to me these springs are found in knobs to fit shafts with flats. Some knobs also have a flat, the spring fits into that and against the flat on the shaft when the knob is installed. I can't remember exactly how the spring is formed and don't have one to look at. My memory is some springs are formed into a partial arc so that one end goes into the knob and, when installed, the bowed up part is against the shaft. I also seem to remember U shaped springs but am less sure of that. The problem with makeshift substitutes is that they can jam making the knob difficult or impossible to remove again. Of course, shafts with flats are also used with knobs having a set-screw, to located them or keep them from turning.
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On 2/5/2024 1:02 PM, wb6ogd wrote: Bob,
Yes, I am talking about the little flat spring.? That must be what you are missing.? Normally
the coupler is so tight you have to pry it loose with a screwdriver against the PA cage.
I did see on one of the groups recently that someone found the little metal cutter that's inside
a dental floss container works perfectly..?? I haven't tried it though.
It is probably the same as the Drake knobs, maybe the knob repro guys have just the spring?
Or you might try a little piece of copper wire stuffed in there.
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998
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Re: Copy of original documents
I placed it back in the original box along with the QC tag.? Date is 3/83 for info. Will store the original box and have it for my heirs.
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Re: Copy of original documents
I believe I may have one or two of these somewhere.? I think with my B Line,? That set came with all of the original boxes, too (and I have them stored!).
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with secure email.
On Monday, February 5th, 2024 at 2:48 PM, wb6ogd <garywinblad@...> wrote:
WOW, nice.? Yeah, send it in... hi hi.
I flipped an old Hallicrafters SX-96 from 1954 that still had the card inside.
?
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
On 02/05/2024 10:13 AM PST K6OXN Bob <bobk6oxn@...> wrote:
?
?
I attach the copy of the original registration card from my recent NIB RV-75 purchase. Wonder if I should send it in.
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Re: Plate & Load Shift Couplers
Bob,
Yes, I am talking about the little flat spring.? That must be what you are missing.? Normally
the coupler is so tight you have to pry it loose with a screwdriver against the PA cage.
?
I did see on one of the groups recently that someone found the little metal cutter that's inside
a dental floss container works perfectly..?? I haven't tried it though.
?
It is probably the same as the Drake knobs, maybe the knob repro guys have just the spring?
Or you might try a little piece of copper wire stuffed in there.
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
?
On 02/05/2024 8:56 AM PST Bob Tragesser <btragesser@...> wrote:
?
?
Well, regardless of whether or not the inserts are lead, there are basically two hunks of relatively soft metal that fit into what appears to be a nylon tube.? Although that could be a way of insulating the rotor from the front shaft, it sort of seems to me that the design used two pieces so that one could be aligned and inserted for the rotor shaft and the other could be aligned to allow the front shaft and front knob to align properly on the front panel. Unfortunately they don't and probably aren't going to come out of the nylon tube with cracking it or deforming the metal inserts.
There were no spring clips on these although I can see that if there were, that would eliminate my problem.?
Gary, I am assuming you are speaking of little (almost flat) spring clips that fit against the flat part of the 1/4" shaft similar to what some of the front panel knobs use rather than set screws.? Anybody know what you call those and / or where to get them?
73
Bob
WB9RHW?
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Re: Copy of original documents
Too bad there is no purchase date on the warranty card Bob.? Or am I just not seeing it?? Existing data on Ron's website puts the manufacturing date between February and May 1983.? Probably close enough for horseshoes anyways.
73 and congratulations...
Peter VE7PS
WOW, nice.? Yeah, send it in... hi hi.
I flipped an old Hallicrafters SX-96 from 1954 that still had the card inside.
?
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
?
?
I attach the copy of the original registration card from my recent NIB RV-75 purchase. Wonder if I should send it in.
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Re: Copy of original documents
WOW, nice.? Yeah, send it in... hi hi.
I flipped an old Hallicrafters SX-96 from 1954 that still had the card inside.
?
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
On 02/05/2024 10:13 AM PST K6OXN Bob <bobk6oxn@...> wrote:
?
?
I attach the copy of the original registration card from my recent NIB RV-75 purchase. Wonder if I should send it in.
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Yes Mike, I have 4 of these UV3's in different option offerings. The RF sections (boards) are hard wired in so I too only see the way for troubleshooting/part changes on those boards is dismantle, unsolder the harness, remove board(s) etc. So have lived/living that pain. Got the single bander 2M and dual bander 2M/440 working. Got the tribander on the bench but keep getting interruptions so that one keeps losing momentum, the too many projects problem. Here is the link to Roger Bloom, who back in the day did engineering at Drake (TR7, UV3) and I have had contact with him regarding the UV3 (although its been years). I recall he has been on the the Drake boards with comments:
Paul - W2NMI
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Copy of original documents
I attach the copy of the original registration card from my recent NIB RV-75 purchase. Wonder if I should send it in.  
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Re: Plate & Load Shift Couplers
I have 3 couplers for sale if anyone is interested. ? Doug ? Free Climbing - The ultimate test of strength and endurance ?
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±Ê²¹³Ü±ô¡
I have the factory service manual, but for the life of me, I find it almost impossible to get to the RF modules without gutting the entire rig. The plug in cards are easy enough, but whoa, those RF boards.
The PLL is wacky, too. The signals run all over the place.
Mike wb8vge
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On Feb 5, 2024, at 12:10 PM, Paul Dulaff via < pdulaff@...> wrote:
Hi Mike. No factory training here sorry. Just fixing them as needed and time permits. Typical failures are tantalum caps shorting so sorting thru that issue can get some level of progress. Are they worth the time and effort to fix ? Depends. Some units have the 220 Mhz option so can offer an opportunity for those folks wanting 220. Receiver front end on 440 uses helical resonators so by todays standards the front end is pretty crunch proof as compared to what hams buy now. Has crystal filters on both the 10.7 and 455 Khz IF sections. No integrated PL so that is a negative and they are physically large, partly the result of using leaded parts that are fairly easy to service generally. These are good for link receivers/transmitters for example. Do you have all the service documentation and the card extender,? I have it the documentation and I recall the Drake site has it also.
Paul - W2NMI
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Hi Mike. No factory training here sorry. Just fixing them as needed and time permits. Typical failures are tantalum caps shorting so sorting thru that issue can get some level of progress. Are they worth the time and effort to fix ? Depends. Some units have the 220 Mhz option so can offer an opportunity for those folks wanting 220. Receiver front end on 440 uses helical resonators so by todays standards the front end is pretty crunch proof as compared to what hams buy now. Has crystal filters on both the 10.7 and 455 Khz IF sections. No integrated PL so that is a negative and they are physically large, partly the result of using leaded parts that are fairly easy to service generally. These are good for link receivers/transmitters for example. Do you have all the service documentation and the card extender,? I have it the documentation and I recall the Drake site has it also.
Paul - W2NMI
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Re: Plate & Load Shift Couplers
Well, regardless of whether or not the inserts are lead, there are basically two hunks of relatively soft metal that fit into what appears to be a nylon tube.? Although that could be a way of insulating the rotor from the front shaft, it sort of seems to me that the design used two pieces so that one could be aligned and inserted for the rotor shaft and the other could be aligned to allow the front shaft and front knob to align properly on the front panel. Unfortunately they don't and probably aren't going to come out of the nylon tube with cracking it or deforming the metal inserts.
There were no spring clips on these although I can see that if there were, that would eliminate my problem.?
Gary, I am assuming you are speaking of little (almost flat) spring clips that fit against the flat part of the 1/4" shaft similar to what some of the front panel knobs use rather than set screws.? Anybody know what you call those and / or where to get them?
73
Bob
WB9RHW?
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Hi everyone!
I said I¡¯d never work on one of these things again. EVER!
But here we are¡. The one has ?the 2M and the 440 bands. I had repaired the two meter part, but the 440 module looks like it won¡¯t be down for breakfast. I would sure like to know if anyone on this list used to do factory repairs on these things?
I have 6 of theses in the collection, One, that I use everyday has only the 2m module. It looks great sitting on top of the PS3 power supply.
This, one, with 2M and 440, and two more fully loaded that will never operate again. The last one is strictly a parts pig.?
The cost of time and labor exceeds the value of these radios.
I¡¯m Mike, WB8VGE The Heathkit shop
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Re: Plate & Load Shift Couplers
Bob, I re-read your OP. ?Your rig should have the moulded couplings and I can¡¯t think of how those could fail under normal conditions. ?However, Drake used screwless knobs for these two controls. ?Make sure that each knob has a spring retainer and that it is firmly pushed onto the shaft.
The other knobs with the setscrews will work on these.
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Sun, Feb 4, 2024 at 4:53 PM, Bob Tragesser < btragesser@...> wrote: What suggestions does the group have on the best way to resolve slop and play apparently caused by wear and tear on the lead inserts in the shaft couplers on the Plate & Load controls?
This happens to be in a TR-4C but I imagine they are about the same in any of the transmitters.?
Bob
WB9RHW
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Re: Plate & Load Shift Couplers
The early couplers were round and had a straight spring piece in them. Later ones are moulded. ?I¡¯m guessing you have the older type, missing the spring piece or with a piece that is no longer arced.?
If reposting them onto both shafts doesn¡¯t help, look for replacements. ?Sometimes, Nationwide will have them.?
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Sun, Feb 4, 2024 at 9:14 PM, wb6ogd < garywinblad@...> wrote: The insert is not lead but...
Have you lost the spring piece inside?? They shouldn't have play.? Every one I have seen is actually really tight, hard to get loose to
remove the cage.
They probably should be insulated between shafts, I think.? There are nylon couplers with screws, that might be a good substitute.
Or if they don't have to insulate, there are brass ones.
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
?
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TR7A Service manual serching.
Hello dear Drake specialist.
At this time i was not able to found the service manual or or pdf version for TR7A!
I Have an original version for TR7 ( 1979) and i read somewere that a version dec 1980 exist including schematics for TR7A
May be someone could help me
best regards 73" F1FPG Fran?ois....( sorry for my poor english from old time school courses!)
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Re: RV-75 Function Switch
HP test equipment has had problems with hardened lubricant on switch shafts.? The 8640B's bandswitch operates a cam that rotates in on two bushings.? When that lubricant hardens on those bushings, it's very difficult if not almost impossible to rotate that switch.? As you say, cleaning the old lubricant and using some light oil does the trick.
Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ
From: "K6OXN Bob" <bobk6oxn@...>
To: "DRAKE-RADIO" <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, February 4, 2024 8:31:01 PM
Subject: [DRAKE-RADIO] RV-75 Function Switch
I have seen several reports that stored RV-75's have reported Function Switches that are frozen. In my purchase of a NIB RV-75 and having the Function Switch seized, I decided to look into it after replacing the switch with my spare. What I found was the shaft was frozen and you could not move it. After a complete disassembly I was able to carefully remove the switch shaft and found hardened grease on the shaft.? Cleaned with some alcohol and lubricated with fine machine oil. Reassembled the switch and it now works perfectly. The unit I bought had been stored since mid 80's so probably almost 40 years. I suspect whomever Drake was using as a supplier for switches did not know this. I think you might be able to soak the switch in some alcohol and that should loosen up the switch. Hope this might make it easier for those with stuck switches in the future.
73? Bob
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Re: RV-75 Function Switch
K6OXN Bob writes: y spare. What I found was the shaft was frozen and you could not move it. A=
fter a complete disassembly I was able to carefully remove the switch shaft=
and found hardened grease on the shaft.=C2=A0 Cleaned with some alcohol an=
d lubricated with fine machine oil. Reassembled the switch and it now works=
perfectly. The unit I bought had been stored since mid 80's so probably al= Well ain't that interesting. A while back I picked up a Yaesu FTV-250 transverter with a frozen solid bandswitch. I popped the lid, and it was immediately obvious the unit had been dropped (hard) on its backside. Enough to bend the vertical part of the rear chassis. I had assumed the same G forces had jammed up the switch. But this 250 also looked to be a store demo, and likely sat in storage for a few decades before I acquired it. I'm beginning to wonder now if the banged up chassis is a red herring. I have to remove the bandswitch anyway, to make room to try and straighten out the chassis. So while I have it out, I will try your attack on it. Who knows? This could be simpler thn tracking down a replacement. --lyndon
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I have seen several reports that stored RV-75's have reported Function Switches that are frozen. In my purchase of a NIB RV-75 and having the Function Switch seized, I decided to look into it after replacing the switch with my spare. What I found was the shaft was frozen and you could not move it. After a complete disassembly I was able to carefully remove the switch shaft and found hardened grease on the shaft.? Cleaned with some alcohol and lubricated with fine machine oil. Reassembled the switch and it now works perfectly. The unit I bought had been stored since mid 80's so probably almost 40 years. I suspect whomever Drake was using as a supplier for switches did not know this. I think you might be able to soak the switch in some alcohol and that should loosen up the switch. Hope this might make it easier for those with stuck switches in the future.
73? Bob
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Joseph K4JNG
Gary WB6OGD
Bob Tragesser
Fran?ois F1FPG