We have several of them floating around the house and, knock on wood, I've never seen one fail.
Barry - N4BUQ
From: "GARY WINBLAD" <garywinblad@...>
To: "DRAKE-RADIO" <[email protected]>, "n4buq" <n4buq@...>
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2024 11:22:58 AM
Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] K4DPK VFO Stabilizer
Barry,
True, but that was a long time ago.
And I am using the Apple wart to power other things.. (as well as charging my phone).
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
?
On 01/19/2024 9:06 AM PST n4buq <n4buq@...> wrote:
?
?
It used to be that iPhones wouldn't charge on just any 5V USB charger.? There is/was an extra wire that signaled the iPhone it could charge from the charger which essentially meant you had to buy Apple's more expensive charger.? I don't think that's still the case since Apple switched to the smaller charger connector.
?
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
?
From: "GARY WINBLAD" <garywinblad@...>
To: "DRAKE-RADIO" <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2024 9:12:34 AM
Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] K4DPK VFO Stabilizer
Modern switching wall warts are pretty good.
Think about it, they power all kinds of expensive sensitive gadgets.. ie: the $1k iPhone in your pocket!
I especially like the little 1in Apple wart.? I have had one of those powering my Arduino/Si5351 GPSDO for years now and not a problem.
There are counterfeits out there though which have a fraction of the parts inside as the Apple.
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
?
|
Barry,
True, but that was a long time ago.
And I am using the Apple wart to power other things.. (as well as charging my phone).
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
?
On 01/19/2024 9:06 AM PST n4buq <n4buq@...> wrote:
?
?
It used to be that iPhones wouldn't charge on just any 5V USB charger.? There is/was an extra wire that signaled the iPhone it could charge from the charger which essentially meant you had to buy Apple's more expensive charger.? I don't think that's still the case since Apple switched to the smaller charger connector.
?
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
?
From: "GARY WINBLAD" <garywinblad@...>
To: "DRAKE-RADIO" <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2024 9:12:34 AM
Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] K4DPK VFO Stabilizer
Modern switching wall warts are pretty good.
Think about it, they power all kinds of expensive sensitive gadgets.. ie: the $1k iPhone in your pocket!
I especially like the little 1in Apple wart.? I have had one of those powering my Arduino/Si5351 GPSDO for years now and not a problem.
There are counterfeits out there though which have a fraction of the parts inside as the Apple.
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
?
|
For homebrew stuff, and things I've refurbed and worry a bit
about, I have started putting in TVS diodes across the circuit
input, post regulator.? This is sort of a quick & easy poor
man's overvoltage protection method in that the TVS can disipate a
ton of power and in the event of a failing pass transistor in a
regulator can force a primary side fuse to pop.? TVS are cheap and
it's easy to do other than picking the right value.
73/jeff/ac0c
alpha-charlie-zero-charlie
On 1/19/2024 11:06 AM, n4buq wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
It used to be that iPhones wouldn't charge on just any 5V
USB charger.? There is/was an extra wire that signaled the
iPhone it could charge from the charger which essentially
meant you had to buy Apple's more expensive charger.? I don't
think that's still the case since Apple switched to the
smaller charger connector.
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
Modern switching wall warts are pretty good.
Think about it, they power all kinds of expensive
sensitive gadgets.. ie: the $1k iPhone in your pocket!
I especially like the little 1in Apple wart.? I have had
one of those powering my Arduino/Si5351 GPSDO for years
now and not a problem.
There are counterfeits out there though which have a
fraction of the parts inside as the Apple.
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
?
|
As much as I dislike "shotgunning" parts, if there are paper caps, they should all be replaced.? Be aware that Drake used a lot of Sprague caps and that the black tubular ones with red lettering are NOT paper and are usually good "forever".? The TR-3 was made at a time when manufacturers were transitioning away from paper capacitors towards ceramic, poly and other better materials.? These capacitors shouldn't be replaced as part of a restoration.
Remember that whenever anything is replaced, we all introduce the risk of replacing a good part with a bad one, installing a part wrong or damaging something else whilst you are "in there" (melting with a soldering iron comes to mind here).
I like to leave everything until I have had a chance to see if the rig is working, first.? You need a baseline from whence you go towards improvement.? This is also very true if you're going to do a major (i.e., kitchen sink) cleaning.? You want it working first.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with secure email.
On Friday, January 19th, 2024 at 10:12 AM, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io <w1es@...> wrote:
Dave, the small 10 uF is probably for the cathode of the audio output tube (6AQ5).?It¡¯s a good idea to replace it.?
If the rig is working well, don¡¯t worry about the resistors yet. Just about all of them are 10% parts.?
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Fri, Jan 19, 2024 at 10:04, Dave via groups.io <kc3am@...> wrote: OK everyone,
I am finally starting to look into the TR-3 in depth as has been suggested
I have received the replacement caps from Hayseed Hamfest for my TR-3.
The original can is still in place.
I will replace the can this weekend instead of playing in the new fallen
snow.
I have yet to find where the small 10uf is. Can someone give me an idea
where this cap is?
What style tubular cap is on the stand up boards?
Should they be replaced?
I do not have a capacitor checker.
I have randomly measured some resistors in circuit and there are some
that are off value.
What is the preferred replacement style resistor?
Any other suggestions.
Thanks much,
Dave KC3AM
|
It used to be that iPhones wouldn't charge on just any 5V USB charger.? There is/was an extra wire that signaled the iPhone it could charge from the charger which essentially meant you had to buy Apple's more expensive charger.? I don't think that's still the case since Apple switched to the smaller charger connector.
Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ
From: "GARY WINBLAD" <garywinblad@...>
To: "DRAKE-RADIO" <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2024 9:12:34 AM
Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] K4DPK VFO Stabilizer
Modern switching wall warts are pretty good.
Think about it, they power all kinds of expensive sensitive gadgets.. ie: the $1k iPhone in your pocket!
I especially like the little 1in Apple wart.? I have had one of those powering my Arduino/Si5351 GPSDO for years now and not a problem.
There are counterfeits out there though which have a fraction of the parts inside as the Apple.
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
?
|
FAced with a similar endeavor, I chose not to replace the caps initially, then as I got into it, I eventually had todo?it,? so you are on the correct track.? Look at the audio output tube, I think the 10 micro fd cap is in the cathode circuit.?? The other caps are a variety of paper caps.? I changed all of these as well.? Some I checked were bad, some useable, but my time was more valuable than the angst of dealing with continual issues because I saved a capacitor.? My advice is the change all electrolytic and all paper caps.
Good luck.? My TR3 is back on the to be fixed shelf for other issues, but enjoyed it when I had it running.? Don't forget to address the AC 3 or 4 power supply?unit.? Hayseed can help you with that as well.
David Assaf III W5XU, VP8RXU ?
OK everyone,
I am finally starting to look into the TR-3 in depth as has been suggested
I have received the replacement caps from Hayseed Hamfest for my TR-3.
The original can is still in place.
I will replace the can this weekend instead of playing in the new fallen
snow.
I have yet to find where the small 10uf is. Can someone give me an idea
where this cap is?
What style tubular cap is on the stand up boards?
Should they be replaced?
I do not have a capacitor checker.
I have randomly measured some resistors in circuit and there are some
that are off value.
What is the preferred replacement style resistor?
Any other suggestions.
Thanks much,
Dave KC3AM
|
Dave, the small 10 uF is probably for the cathode of the audio output tube (6AQ5).?It¡¯s a good idea to replace it.?
If the rig is working well, don¡¯t worry about the resistors yet. Just about all of them are 10% parts.?
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Fri, Jan 19, 2024 at 10:04, Dave via groups.io < kc3am@...> wrote: OK everyone,
I am finally starting to look into the TR-3 in depth as has been suggested
I have received the replacement caps from Hayseed Hamfest for my TR-3.
The original can is still in place.
I will replace the can this weekend instead of playing in the new fallen
snow.
I have yet to find where the small 10uf is. Can someone give me an idea
where this cap is?
What style tubular cap is on the stand up boards?
Should they be replaced?
I do not have a capacitor checker.
I have randomly measured some resistors in circuit and there are some
that are off value.
What is the preferred replacement style resistor?
Any other suggestions.
Thanks much,
Dave KC3AM
|
Modern switching wall warts are pretty good.
Think about it, they power all kinds of expensive sensitive gadgets.. ie: the $1k iPhone in your pocket!
I especially like the little 1in Apple wart.? I have had one of those powering my Arduino/Si5351 GPSDO for years now and not a problem.
There are counterfeits out there though which have a fraction of the parts inside as the Apple.
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
?
|
OK everyone,
I am finally starting to look into the TR-3 in depth as has been suggested
I have received the replacement caps from Hayseed Hamfest for my TR-3.
The original can is still in place.
I will replace the can this weekend instead of playing in the new fallen snow.
I have yet to find where the small 10uf is. Can someone give me an idea where this cap is?
What style tubular cap is on the stand up boards?
Should they be replaced?
I do not have a capacitor checker.
I have randomly measured some resistors in circuit and there are some that are off value.
What is the preferred replacement style resistor?
Any other suggestions.
Thanks much,
Dave KC3AM
|
Not sure but good point.?
I used to disconnect the 9V battery when I wasn¡¯t using it but have discovered that I¡¯ll get at least a year out of a battery even if I just leave it, so that¡¯s how I¡¯m doing it now.?
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Fri, Jan 19, 2024 at 09:49, Dan < pitfit@...> wrote: ?Curious if your bad experience was with a switching or linear wall wart???
Dan WB4GRA On Jan 19, 2024, at 9:22?AM, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io <w1es@...> wrote:
? I will no longer use any wall warts to supply DC to anything that¡¯s sensitive. I learned the hard way with one of my old Trac CMOS keyers. I had to replace all eight chips and a transistor when the wart failed.?
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Thu, Jan 18, 2024 at 21:45, Evan via groups.io < k9sqg@...> wrote:
As to DC ?wall cubes, test first. ?Some of them have high onset voltage until the regulator kicks in, and some of them are prone to RFI altering the output voltage.
On Thursday, January 18, 2024 at 02:17:48 PM EST, Paul Christensen <w9ac@...> wrote:
I¡¯ll soon be installing a K4DPK VFO stabilizer in my TR-4Cw.? The stabilizer works on 10-14 VDC.? Since there¡¯s no low voltage in the TR-4Cw, I¡¯m curious how others have attempted the supply voltage dilemma,.? Here are some options: ? - Use the 12.6VAC filament line and use a well filtered half-wave rectifier and Zener diode.? The stabilizer draws relatively low current so ripple shouldn¡¯t be too difficult to manage;
- Use a filtered full-wave bridge rectifier on the 12.6VAC line for better ripple suppression. ?Note that one side of the 12.6VAC winding from the AC-4 power supply is grounded/bonded to the chassis.? As such, a standard two-diode full wave rectifier isn¡¯t easily managed here;
- Or as Drake engineers loved, consider hot, power-hungry wire wound resistors to drop voltage on one of the B+ lines.? Frankly, it¡¯s not an option to add even more cabinet heat to a problem that is heat generated in the first place;
- External DC wall cube.? This throw-in-the-towel solution and #3 above just aren¡¯t viable for me.? ?
? Other options come to mind?? I¡¯m not keen on anything that uses DC-DC switching regulators no matter how well they¡¯re filtered.? ? Paul, W9AC
|
? Curious if your bad experience was with a switching or linear wall wart???
Dan WB4GRA
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 19, 2024, at 9:22?AM, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io <w1es@...> wrote:
? I will no longer use any wall warts to supply DC to anything that¡¯s sensitive. I learned the hard way with one of my old Trac CMOS keyers. I had to replace all eight chips and a transistor when the wart failed.?
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Thu, Jan 18, 2024 at 21:45, Evan via groups.io < k9sqg@...> wrote:
As to DC ?wall cubes, test first. ?Some of them have high onset voltage until the regulator kicks in, and some of them are prone to RFI altering the output voltage.
On Thursday, January 18, 2024 at 02:17:48 PM EST, Paul Christensen <w9ac@...> wrote:
I¡¯ll soon be installing a K4DPK VFO stabilizer in my TR-4Cw.? The stabilizer works on 10-14 VDC.? Since there¡¯s no low voltage in the TR-4Cw, I¡¯m curious how others have attempted the supply voltage dilemma,.? Here are some options: ? - Use the 12.6VAC filament line and use a well filtered half-wave rectifier and Zener diode.? The stabilizer draws relatively low current so ripple shouldn¡¯t be too difficult to manage;
- Use a filtered full-wave bridge rectifier on the 12.6VAC line for better ripple suppression. ?Note that one side of the 12.6VAC winding from the AC-4 power supply is grounded/bonded to the chassis.? As such, a standard two-diode full wave rectifier isn¡¯t easily managed here;
- Or as Drake engineers loved, consider hot, power-hungry wire wound resistors to drop voltage on one of the B+ lines.? Frankly, it¡¯s not an option to add even more cabinet heat to a problem that is heat generated in the first place;
- External DC wall cube.? This throw-in-the-towel solution and #3 above just aren¡¯t viable for me.? ?
? Other options come to mind?? I¡¯m not keen on anything that uses DC-DC switching regulators no matter how well they¡¯re filtered.? ? Paul, W9AC
|
I will no longer use any wall warts to supply DC to anything that¡¯s sensitive. I learned the hard way with one of my old Trac CMOS keyers. I had to replace all eight chips and a transistor when the wart failed.?
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Thu, Jan 18, 2024 at 21:45, Evan via groups.io < k9sqg@...> wrote:
As to DC ?wall cubes, test first. ?Some of them have high onset voltage until the regulator kicks in, and some of them are prone to RFI altering the output voltage.
On Thursday, January 18, 2024 at 02:17:48 PM EST, Paul Christensen <w9ac@...> wrote:
I¡¯ll soon be installing a K4DPK VFO stabilizer in my TR-4Cw.? The stabilizer works on 10-14 VDC.? Since there¡¯s no low voltage in the TR-4Cw, I¡¯m curious how others have attempted the supply voltage dilemma,.? Here are some options: ? - Use the 12.6VAC filament line and use a well filtered half-wave rectifier and Zener diode.? The stabilizer draws relatively low current so ripple shouldn¡¯t be too difficult to manage;
- Use a filtered full-wave bridge rectifier on the 12.6VAC line for better ripple suppression. ?Note that one side of the 12.6VAC winding from the AC-4 power supply is grounded/bonded to the chassis.? As such, a standard two-diode full wave rectifier isn¡¯t easily managed here;
- Or as Drake engineers loved, consider hot, power-hungry wire wound resistors to drop voltage on one of the B+ lines.? Frankly, it¡¯s not an option to add even more cabinet heat to a problem that is heat generated in the first place;
- External DC wall cube.? This throw-in-the-towel solution and #3 above just aren¡¯t viable for me.? ?
? Other options come to mind?? I¡¯m not keen on anything that uses DC-DC switching regulators no matter how well they¡¯re filtered.? ? Paul, W9AC
|
>"Paul, what's the current requirement for that VFO stabilizer board? 73/jeff/ac0c"
Jeff,
No spec but the stabilizer has four CMOS chips and one LED with the LED drawing the most current.? So, 15-20 mA.? Either a 78L10 or 1/2W 10V Zener should be fine.? The 78Lxx devices are good to a max current of 100mA.? Rather than one 'lytic filter cap, I'll use four in parallel after the half-wave rectifier.
Paul, W9AC??
|
I'll take the filter. PM the details off line.
Tnx.?
On Thursday, January 18, 2024 at 03:36:17 PM EST, George Rybicki <atomant@...> wrote:
I have a used one I can let go for $50 if anyone still needs one. 
|
As to DC ?wall cubes, test first. ?Some of them have high onset voltage until the regulator kicks in, and some of them are prone to RFI altering the output voltage.
On Thursday, January 18, 2024 at 02:17:48 PM EST, Paul Christensen <w9ac@...> wrote:
I¡¯ll soon be installing a K4DPK VFO stabilizer in my TR-4Cw.? The stabilizer works on 10-14 VDC.? Since there¡¯s no low voltage in the TR-4Cw, I¡¯m curious how others have attempted the supply voltage dilemma,.? Here are some options: ? - Use the 12.6VAC filament line and use a well filtered half-wave rectifier and Zener diode.? The stabilizer draws relatively low current so ripple shouldn¡¯t be too difficult to manage;
- Use a filtered full-wave bridge rectifier on the 12.6VAC line for better ripple suppression. ?Note that one side of the 12.6VAC winding from the AC-4 power supply is grounded/bonded to the chassis.? As such, a standard two-diode full wave rectifier isn¡¯t easily managed here;
- Or as Drake engineers loved, consider hot, power-hungry wire wound resistors to drop voltage on one of the B+ lines.? Frankly, it¡¯s not an option to add even more cabinet heat to a problem that is heat generated in the first place;
- External DC wall cube.? This throw-in-the-towel solution and #3 above just aren¡¯t viable for me.? ?
? Other options come to mind?? I¡¯m not keen on anything that uses DC-DC switching regulators no matter how well they¡¯re filtered.? ? Paul, W9AC
|
Bob thank you again for your thoughts. The potentiometer did fail completely so I'm on the hunt fo a 15M linear potentiometer. Best I've found so far is 5M from mouser who should be fine. If anyone out there has another option please let me know.
For now, I had a 10k pot extra from the 2BQ repair that I soldered in today. Relay is back to normal operation for now and not getting stuck. The delay is obviously very quick, essentially QSK between letters. Hope the 5M will be enough range to lengthen the delay a bit more.
Joe ki5o?
|
Re: TR7 fails to PLL when turned on
Good point. The 78L24 is a known failure point. Also C2108, which causes strange problems when (not IF) it fails. Replace it if today is a day that ends in the letter Y. The -5 will be around -3 to -4 and is only used to back bias the PIN diodes on the IF filter board. 73 -Jim NU0C On Thu, 18 Jan 2024 13:05:59 -0800 "Steven KE2AXS" <sosborne8270@...> wrote: I had this same problem. Found the core fell out of the T2101 transformer on the power supply / regulator board. Found it in the bottom of my TR7. Tied that back in place and all was well. Check that you are really seeing a full 24VDC and about -5 VDC from that board. Strangely even with half the core laying in the bottom of the radio, it would work after about a 5 min warm up!
-- 73 -Jim NU0C
|
Paul, what's the current requirement for that VFO stabilizer board?
73/jeff/ac0c
alpha-charlie-zero-charlie
www.ac0c.com
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 1/18/2024 4:28 PM, Jim Shorney wrote: There are LDO versions of the 317 series. Fixed regulators can also benefit from a protection diode. The risk is if the input voltage falls below the output voltage. Diodes are cheap. I have a tendency to add one if I have to replace a regulator.
73
-Jim
NU0C
On Thu, 18 Jan 2024 15:25:49 -0500
"Paul Christensen" <w9ac@...> wrote:
Jim,
I don't believe the 317T is a low-drop-out regulator. There won't be much
In-Out margin on the 12.6 VAC string during a brown-out condition with
half-wave rectification. It also requires (or strongly suggested by the
OEMs) use of protection diodes across the I/O terminals and output.
Considering the low current draw and wide supply range of the K4DPK
stabilizer, 78L10 or 78L12 should be sufficient.
Paul, W9AC
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Jim Shorney
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2024 3:10 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] K4DPK VFO Stabilizer
Even better, use a 317T regulator *with recommended external caps*. Better
specs and you can set the voltage to exactly what you want.
73
-Jim
NU0C
On Thu, 18 Jan 2024 11:52:15 -0800
"jerry-KF6VB" <jerry@...> wrote:
On 2024-01-18 11:17, Paul Christensen wrote:
I'll soon be installing a K4DPK VFO stabilizer in my TR-4Cw. The
stabilizer works on 10-14 VDC. Since there's no low voltage in the
TR-4Cw, I'm curious how others have attempted the supply voltage
dilemma, *** I had a similar requirement for my KWM-2. I used a half-wave
rectifier off the filament circuit, feeding a TO-92 three-terminal
regulator.
Which
has far better ripple rejection than a zener diode.
Actually, I wound up using two half-wave rectifier circuits; one for
a BHI noise reduction module inserted in the audio stream, and the
other for a DC fan.
In the case of the KWM2, there was an empty tube socket on the
chassis, meant for a noise blanker option. This had most of the
signals I needed, including a switch closure for the "NB" position on
the front panel. So now when I click to "NB", the band noise goes
down. I mostly leave it in "NB".
- Jerry, KF6VB
|
Also marketed as LED drivers. I have an adjustable one driving the +20v PLL power source in a Uniden scanner as the original dead chip was unobtanium at the time. It's been working well for a couple of years now. 73 -Jim NU0C On Thu, 18 Jan 2024 20:31:19 +0000 "nigel patterson G3YDT" <wnigelpatterson@...> wrote: There are very cheap DC to DC converters (sometimes called regulators or
step up or step down (buck) but are adjustable for output voltage) from
China on the internet, for $5. -- 73 -Jim NU0C
|
There are LDO versions of the 317 series. Fixed regulators can also benefit from a protection diode. The risk is if the input voltage falls below the output voltage. Diodes are cheap. I have a tendency to add one if I have to replace a regulator. 73 -Jim NU0C On Thu, 18 Jan 2024 15:25:49 -0500 "Paul Christensen" <w9ac@...> wrote: Jim,
I don't believe the 317T is a low-drop-out regulator. There won't be much
In-Out margin on the 12.6 VAC string during a brown-out condition with
half-wave rectification. It also requires (or strongly suggested by the
OEMs) use of protection diodes across the I/O terminals and output.
Considering the low current draw and wide supply range of the K4DPK
stabilizer, 78L10 or 78L12 should be sufficient.
Paul, W9AC
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Jim Shorney
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2024 3:10 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] K4DPK VFO Stabilizer
Even better, use a 317T regulator *with recommended external caps*. Better
specs and you can set the voltage to exactly what you want.
73
-Jim
NU0C
On Thu, 18 Jan 2024 11:52:15 -0800
"jerry-KF6VB" <jerry@...> wrote:
On 2024-01-18 11:17, Paul Christensen wrote:
I'll soon be installing a K4DPK VFO stabilizer in my TR-4Cw. The
stabilizer works on 10-14 VDC. Since there's no low voltage in the
TR-4Cw, I'm curious how others have attempted the supply voltage
dilemma, *** I had a similar requirement for my KWM-2. I used a half-wave
rectifier off the filament circuit, feeding a TO-92 three-terminal
regulator.
Which
has far better ripple rejection than a zener diode.
Actually, I wound up using two half-wave rectifier circuits; one for
a BHI noise reduction module inserted in the audio stream, and the
other for a DC fan.
In the case of the KWM2, there was an empty tube socket on the
chassis, meant for a noise blanker option. This had most of the
signals I needed, including a switch closure for the "NB" position on
the front panel. So now when I click to "NB", the band noise goes
down. I mostly leave it in "NB".
- Jerry, KF6VB
-- 73 -Jim NU0C
|
Gary WB6OGD
David
Paul Christensen
Jim Shorney