Fully agree, Neutrik is really good stuff. Worth every Cent.
You may also try Hirschmann/Belden connectors. I had good
experience with them, too.
Sometimes you can tell just from the price. If it's too cheap,
don't be surprised if it's not worth more than you paid. If it
comes to coaxial (and other) connectors, I make no more
compromises. Did that when I was as student and had little money.
Often ended up with melted connectors...
Someone said that proper heat is important. I second that. Too
low temperatures of your solding iron are usually worse than too
high. You just have to keep the time short.
Good luck with your next DIN connector!
73, Dieter DL5RDO
Am 09.04.2021 um 18:44 schrieb Jim
Shorney:
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Have you tried Neutrik? I've never used their DIN connectors but other connectors that I have used are primo top-notch stuff.
73
-Jim
NU0C
On Fri, 9 Apr 2021 09:45:26 -0500
"Paul Kraemer" <elespe@...> wrote:
Does anyone know of a good brand of these pesky connectors?? By good I
mean NOT a plastic body that melts at the mere sight of a soldering
iron?? I have soldered more than a few connections in my life but I
really hate having to put one of these together.? Even fine wire and
micro tip with the heat turned down I seem to ruin three to get one good
one made up.? A PTFE body would be excellent but I haven't found them---yet.
Paul K0UYA
|
I hear ya, Mike!
From Central NC and not Westford...
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with ProtonMail Secure Email.
‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ Original Message ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐
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On Friday, April 9, 2021 3:12 PM, Michael McCarthy <lists@...> wrote: I gave up on soldering DIN connectors a long time ago. I just buy a
cable with the correct connectors on each end, cut it in half, and make
the attachments to the wires in a home made break-out box.
Mike, W1NR
On 4/9/2021 10:45 AM, Paul Kraemer wrote:
Does anyone know of a good brand of these pesky connectors?? By good I
mean NOT a plastic body that melts at the mere sight of a soldering
iron?? I have soldered more than a few connections in my life but I
really hate having to put one of these together.? Even fine wire and
micro tip with the heat turned down I seem to ruin three to get one good
one made up.? A PTFE body would be excellent but I haven't found
them---yet.
Paul K0UYA
|
Mike:
Thanks for that.? They're not fully up and running on the site but I did e-mail requesting a quote on the 18Mz 3rd overtone xtal.
de John K8NN
|
N4KZO de K8NN
Thanks for the comprehensive analysis (as always).? I've tweaked L10 a bit but will do a continuity check and them another more extensive tweaking to see if I can get either of the 18Mhz crystals to oscillate.
Roger on the third overtone from all except the 11Mhz 40m xtal.? I can get a response putting a 5V P-P 6Mhz signal in series with the xtal then to the O'scope.? Freq is correct but the voltage output is quite low compared to the large voltage gain seen at resonance on a fundamental freq xtal.? Notice the same on both crystals so that leads me to believe it might be a characteristic of the overtone type of crystal?
Will get back to you after fussing with L10.
de John, K8NN
|
I gave up on soldering DIN connectors a long time ago. I just buy a
cable with the correct connectors on each end, cut it in half, and make
the attachments to the wires in a home made break-out box.
Mike, W1NR
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 4/9/2021 10:45 AM, Paul Kraemer wrote: Does anyone know of a good brand of these pesky connectors?? By good I
mean NOT a plastic body that melts at the mere sight of a soldering
iron?? I have soldered more than a few connections in my life but I
really hate having to put one of these together.? Even fine wire and
micro tip with the heat turned down I seem to ruin three to get one good
one made up.? A PTFE body would be excellent but I haven't found
them---yet.
Paul K0UYA
|
One theory is higher heat and shorter period of time on the junction. Heat the junction quickly and as soon as the solder flows get off of it before the plastic starts to soften. Takes practice.?
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On Apr 9, 2021, at 12:52 PM, Evan via groups.io <k9sqg@...> wrote:
?
As a caution, not all DIN connectors have the same spacing/orientation for a given number of pins. ?Not sure they have distinguishing part numbers.
73,
Evan, K9SQG
-----Original Message-----
From: wb6ogd <garywinblad@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Fri, Apr 9, 2021 11:10 am
Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] DIN connectors
Yeah, all the DINs I have do melt extremely easily!
The trick I found is to plug them into the socket while soldering.
The problem I saw was the pin alignment drifted, is that what you are
seeing?
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
On 4/9/2021 7:45 AM, Paul Kraemer wrote:
> Does anyone know of a good brand of these pesky connectors?? By good I
> mean NOT a plastic body that melts at the mere sight of a soldering
> iron?? I have soldered more than a few connections in my life but I
> really hate having to put one of these together.? Even fine wire and
> micro tip with the heat turned down I seem to ruin three to get one
> good one made up.? A PTFE body would be excellent but I haven't found
> them---yet.
>
> Paul K0UYA
>
>
>
>
>
>
|
As a caution, not all DIN connectors have the same spacing/orientation for a given number of pins. ?Not sure they have distinguishing part numbers.
73,
Evan, K9SQG
-----Original Message-----
From: wb6ogd <garywinblad@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Fri, Apr 9, 2021 11:10 am
Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] DIN connectors
Yeah, all the DINs I have do melt extremely easily!
The trick I found is to plug them into the socket while soldering.
The problem I saw was the pin alignment drifted, is that what you are
seeing?
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
On 4/9/2021 7:45 AM, Paul Kraemer wrote:
> Does anyone know of a good brand of these pesky connectors?? By good I
> mean NOT a plastic body that melts at the mere sight of a soldering
> iron?? I have soldered more than a few connections in my life but I
> really hate having to put one of these together.? Even fine wire and
> micro tip with the heat turned down I seem to ruin three to get one
> good one made up.? A PTFE body would be excellent but I haven't found
> them---yet.
>
> Paul K0UYA
>
>
>
>
>
>
|
Have you tried Neutrik? I've never used their DIN connectors but other connectors that I have used are primo top-notch stuff. 73 -Jim NU0C On Fri, 9 Apr 2021 09:45:26 -0500 "Paul Kraemer" <elespe@...> wrote: Does anyone know of a good brand of these pesky connectors?? By good I
mean NOT a plastic body that melts at the mere sight of a soldering
iron?? I have soldered more than a few connections in my life but I
really hate having to put one of these together.? Even fine wire and
micro tip with the heat turned down I seem to ruin three to get one good
one made up.? A PTFE body would be excellent but I haven't found them---yet.
Paul K0UYA
|
Yeah, all the DINs I have do melt extremely easily!
The trick I found is to plug them into the socket while soldering.
The problem I saw was the pin alignment drifted, is that what you are seeing?
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 4/9/2021 7:45 AM, Paul Kraemer wrote: Does anyone know of a good brand of these pesky connectors?? By good I mean NOT a plastic body that melts at the mere sight of a soldering iron?? I have soldered more than a few connections in my life but I really hate having to put one of these together.? Even fine wire and micro tip with the heat turned down I seem to ruin three to get one good one made up.? A PTFE body would be excellent but I haven't found them---yet.
Paul K0UYA
|
Does anyone know of a good brand of these pesky connectors?? By good I mean NOT a plastic body that melts at the mere sight of a soldering iron?? I have soldered more than a few connections in my life but I really hate having to put one of these together.? Even fine wire and micro tip with the heat turned down I seem to ruin three to get one good one made up.? A PTFE body would be excellent but I haven't found them---yet.
Paul K0UYA
|
Sorry. Forgot the photo.?
|
Ran across the manual for the L4B I used to have. If anyone in the US is interested in it, email me your address off the group and I’ll send it. When you get it you can see the postage and PayPal it to me
|
John,
It’s not really pointless to adjust the 20 M coil, with L10 used exclusively for 20 M band resonance. ?There is a threshold inductance value that will cause oscillation: correct inductance is essential in this design. ?It is possible, if the coil is so far out of adjustment (or DC open-circuit in the winding), oscillation will not occur, confirmed with no grid leak bias. ?Consider noting the present position of the coil’s adjustment screw, then experimentally adjust this coil, without going beyond the mechanical stops. ?You can always return to the present coil position if an adjustment doesn’t help. ?But, yes, it sounds like point-to-point continuity checks and short-circuit isolation is in order, first. ?(I expect you have already done a close visual inspection.) ?Check the DC continuity through L10, from the junction (node) of C73 and C74 to ground, with the Band switch in the 20 M position; the capacitors should provide a good DC block to the remainder of the oscillator circuit, although you may see some capacitor charging. Then, switch to the 15 M band with the ohmmeter probes in these locations and confirm open circuit.
Do you know that the 18000.00 kHz crystals you have are series resonant, third overtone crystals? ?I have a Tedford Labs HC-6/U crystal in my radio — verifying, there are no markings on the container indicating parallel or series resonance, so I know of no way for you to confirm series resonance at this frequency, unless you have a dedicated test circuit.
If you haven’t already, try lightly tapping on these dysfunctional crystals with a finger nail during in-circuit operational check: this may provide indication of an circuit connection problem within a crystal.
73,
Michael Smith, N4KZO
|
For Sale: Manual for Drake 2C
Hi, I came across my manual for the Drake 2C that has been sitting in the manual stack for many years.? The manual is a reproduction W7FG manual, nice manual, good condition with attached covers, good spiral spine, includes schematic diagram fold out.? ?Asking $14 including free postage. Thanks.? 73, Scott WA9WFA ? ?
|
Thanks for the update Mike
|
New website:
The AF4K Bry Carling crystal business has been purchased by WD8DAS and is taking orders.
?
On Wednesday, April 7, 2021, 11:52:12 AM CDT, John Limbach, K8NN <john@...> wrote:
Thanks Niel.? According to his website he's out of business.
|
Looking for one of the 5595 khz local oscillator crystals (2nd mixer V3) from an R4 (b)? anybody have one ?
Ron K0IDX
|
Thanks, Michael.
Yes, I've done this.? Problem is that there is no neg. voltage on the 20M position so pointless to tweak the 20M coil.? Seems to indicate that the xtal is not oscillating or a bandswitch issue perhaps.? Will check that.? Strange thing happened yesterday.? When I plugged in either of my two 20M xtals, the 15M xtal quit oscillating.? Take the 20M out and 15 starts right up again.? Now that sounds like a switch issue.? This morning while tuned up on 15M and peaked on the noise.? Good neg voltage and lots of noise that peaked on the preselector.? Plugged the 20M xtal in and 15 kept oscillating.? Go figure.? Time for a few resistance measurement on the bandswitch and a bit more DeOxit.
Still not getting either of the 20M xtals to oscillate.
Going to be out of town for a couple days but will let you know what happens in a few days.
|
Thanks Niel.? According to his website he's out of business.
|
Re: Status of the Heathkit shop
Tough sledding Mike. Hang in there. We need your advise and experience. Praying for your best and most comfortable recovery. Ken
Ken Holloway KA5KEN? AFA6EK
kenhol@...
Mobile/Text 512.924.0707
On Wednesday, March 31, 2021, 2:34:38 PM CDT, mike bryce <prosolar@...> wrote:
For all those Drake collectors out there in radio land.
A few weeks ago I temporarily? shut down ‘The Heathkit Shop’ website’ cause I wasn’t feeling so hot. It will be back up sometime this year. I had hoped for sometime this summer.
However, on Friday the 26th of March, my clock stopped. Taken to hospital and had my pipes cleaned and had the roto-rooter run though them. Apparently, I had (have) microvascular angina.
I drove myself to the North Lawrence fired department where they took me to the hospital.
One stint inserted, but the rest of the plumbing seems to be okay.
More doctors to see, and I have enough pills to start my own drug store now
I’m still kicking, just not a high as I was
I could have went sideways.
With a bit of luck, I’ll have the Heathkit Shop up and running later this? year
73
Mike, WB8VGE
|
Jim Shorney
Gary WB6OGD