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Thanks. I found some 201 series pots on Epay, but the price for 2 is what I gave for a 10 piece of the horizontal mount 201 series pot. The R-4B receiver sensitivity and S meter sensitivity pots are

Nice work on the replacement pot! AxMan Surplus in Saint Paul likely has exact replacements but not too likely they would take the trouble to look for them when the selling price is likely around

True. While not the ideal thing to do; here's what I did since I've been unable to find any of the original CTS 201 series pots of the correct value which mount vertically. CTS still has this document

As I have gone back and forth a bunch of times with this R-4C PTO that I needed to put new dials on, I have learned a few new things about these nylon-geared mechanisms. The latest that I learned

That's true. I'm trying to get an EL on 30m as I type this. Of course, 30m is <200W, so I don't use the amp at all. My old FT-1000D was great for 30 as it had 200W output. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Time

I use it for DXCC points and chasing various special events. I don't get the mass of stateside stations happily working each other every day. That's not fun to me. There is a specific skill set that

When I use the amp for digital, it’s usually on 40 or lower. I just don’t have the 150’ dipole. More power adds o signal strength when needed and yes, FT modes are weak signal, NOT QRP… Steve

I have what I believe are (11) on/off switches that mount on the rear of the T-4XC Function switch. At least I have labled the? box as such. They attach? via (3) metal tabs. On the rear insulating

Thats what I have found out as well Jim about FT8, but I do not use it now, once I got the software working and found out what was going on it was just not for me, I like keyboard to keyboard modes.

Forgot the 73, Jim VE1RB

I have just got one of those switches for a KWM-2A I am going to repair I hope. Attached are pictures of the kit. I am currently in Houston Texas and we’ll see how close it is to fitting my Drake

Yeah, 110 watts is my TR7 barefoot. :) It handles it without breaking a sweat. I use higher power when chasing a rare DX that I need. To quote Joe Taylor, FT/JT mode "is not a low power mode, it is a

Of course it is still beneficial to add inrush protection as well as taking measures to avoid mechanical failure. Surge inrush protection can be as simple as adding a NTC thermistor of the type found

*** On my KWM-2, I don't use the switch at all. Instead, I turn the rig on & off with the cheap & available toggle switch on the power supply. - Jerry, KF6VB

Yeah, I run about 600-700 on FT8 from time to time and I have assumed that I'm getting the plates to glow a little but I can't see inside the L7. I've got graphite anodes on mine so it may not show as

Right Jim you have to run the tubes hot enough so the getter works, I can tell with the L7 that that is occurring when the thermostatically controlled fan turns to high speed on the L4B its east to

Bill, many of us thought that the contacts inside the Oak snap-switches were the part that fails most frequently but upon taking these switches apart, a few of us have determined that the main failure

I'd say at least 600W. In practise, it could be more because the power supply is likely a little "beefier" in proportion. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent

I have read that the power switches on the R4 series transmitters and receivers are also hard to find and/or expensive. If so, is there any benefit to installing some type of surge current reduction

I've run my amps at a kilowatt out on CW (with SSB plate voltage of course) with no issues. Digital modes, well, depends on your TX time. Short contest bursts you could probably do at 1 KW. They will