Re: Contacting K4OAH For Cd's
Yes, the SK is correct, but the sale and mailing of his CD's has been handled by a family member since then, up until now, apparently. I ordered and received some since he became SK.
Tom? K0SN
On Tue, May 9, 2023 at 7:53?AM Lloyd Cabral < kh6lc@...> wrote: QRZ lists K4OAH as a SK from Feb 2018.
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Re: Contacting K4OAH For Cd's
QRZ lists K4OAH as a SK from Feb 2018.
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Re: Drake 2-B Tuning Shaft Bent???
? I, too, suspect a slightly bent 2-B tuning shaft may be a factory installation of a defective part, occurring at some tiny percentage of production output.
I cannot imagine any kind of damage or force applied in situ - shipping damage, bench top abuse, dropping the radio, etc. - that could cause a steel shaft to go out-of-true but leave everything so delicate and sensitive around it perfect and untouched. This couldn't be the result of damage-in-place. Had to be installed that way.
If one can't just tolerate it and live with knob wobble and occasional dial slippage the only fix is a tear down, attempted straightening and reassembly, and dial restringing. ? Ugh.
Dan
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On May 9, 2023, at 12:38 AM, Pete Doherty W1UO <cqdew1uo@...> wrote:
?On Sun, May 7, 2023 at 09:40 AM, william pinkava wrote:
My 2B also had a bent shaft. ?I unstrung the dial and then tapped the shaft back into alignment with light hammer taps while rolling on a flat surface. ?That was the easy part.
Funny thing, my 1st 2B had the same problem! I pretty much did the same. Remove the shaft, tap is straight, reinstall and restring.? I wonder if it was a bad run? Pete W1UO
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Re: TUning on the lower bands with the MN-2000?
Oh that¡¯s ok, my TW-1 will let me hear the dips, I¡¯ve just been tuning it backward. ?
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On May 8, 2023, at 4:59 PM, Ralph Mowery via groups.io <ku4pt@...> wrote:
The Reactive is the large knob on the Left and the Restive is the large knob on the Right.? The band switch is in the middle of those knobs. So after setting to the correct band which would be middle knob counter clockwise for 80 meters start with the right knob for a dip and the left knob for a slight rise and repeat.
I am not real sure as I do not have the low power version to check now but the large knobs may be reversed on it.??
Ralph ku4pt
On Monday, May 8, 2023 at 05:06:28 PM EDT, Justin Mann via groups.io <w9fyi@...> wrote:
I¡¯m assuming the resistive tuning knob is the large knob on the left, and the reactive tuning knob is on the right, with the band switch in the middle? ? On May 8, 2023, at 3:58 PM, Ralph Mowery via groups.io <ku4pt@...> wrote:
You are at a big disadvantage trying to tune this tuner..? Here is the way it needs to be done.
After setting the band switch tune the Resistive Tuning for a SWR dip. Then turn the Reactive Tuning to the Right a slight amount.? The SWR will increase.? Then tune the Restive tuning for a dip in the SWR.? If lower then repeat the process.? If higher , tune the Reactive tuning to the left and then tune the Resistive tuning for the lowest SWR.? Repeat the process several times if needed.
This seems to be similar to the way a tube transmitter tunes up.
The low power version tunes the same way.
Very different than most tuners I have used.
Ralph ku4pt
On Monday, May 8, 2023 at 04:15:49 PM EDT, Justin Mann via groups.io <w9fyi@...> wrote:
HI Ralph, I don¡¯t have an accessible manual for some one who is blind to use that tuner, so I¡¯ve been tuning for maximum noise, and using my audible tuning aid, a TW-1 made by LDG to try and get the SWR down. ?Can you give me some kind of a synopasys on what I should do? ?The pdfs are scanned, so they are difficult for me to get text extracted from the dockuments.
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Re: 2-B 50kHz Alignment Question
Make sure that you have it on the right pin. I used about a 1V signal and had no trouble.?
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent from Proton Mail for iOS
On Mon, May 8, 2023 at 23:53, n4buq < n4buq@...> wrote: Following the manual, with the BFO and PRODUCT DETECTOR on, I've connected a 50kHz unmodulated signal through a blocking capacitor to V5, Pin 1. While I can hear the signal, if I turn the tuning knob, it changes the zero-beat and that doesn't seem correct to me.
The manual doesn't give any "initial settings" for the alignment so I'm curious how one is to zero beat that oscillator. Is there something wrong with my 2-B such that tuning the VFO changes the zero-beat for this step? If not, I'm unclear how to go about this adjustment and am asking for any advice regarding that.
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
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The S meter in the 2-B is identical to all of the S meters used in the R-4 series, and they¡¯re mechanically and electrically identical to the plate meter. Normally, these meters rest at S-1 or 0 mA (depending on scale).?
I have seen these meters test at points above that. There are ¡°tricks¡± one can do with locating small magnets around the meter¡¯s enclosure but aside from that, there is no zero adjust.?
It has been mentioned by many that these meters were cheap.?
The good news is that they¡¯re fairly easy to find and fairly easy to replace.?
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent from Proton Mail for iOS
On Tue, May 9, 2023 at 00:15, < ve3fit@...> wrote: Is it normal for the 2B S meter to sit at about S3 with power off??
I can zero it OK with power on, but it always rests at S3 when the?
power is turned off.?
Ken, VE3FIT
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You have learned well, padawan! :D 73 -Jim NU0C On Mon, 08 May 2023 20:25:46 -0700 "Paul Ellis via groups.io" <paulz67@...> wrote: +1 on using the +3 with the amplifier circuit.? I have one of these on my Kenwood hybrid rig and have gotten nothing but great reports with it.
73,
Paul
KA0JQF
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Re: Drake 2-B Tuning Shaft Bent???
On Sun, May 7, 2023 at 09:40 AM, william pinkava wrote:
My 2B also had a bent shaft. ?I unstrung the dial and then tapped the shaft back into alignment with light hammer taps while rolling on a flat surface. ?That was the easy part.
Funny thing, my 1st 2B had the same problem! I pretty much did the same. Remove the shaft, tap is straight, reinstall and restring.? I wonder if it was a bad run? Pete W1UO
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I don't have a 2B but have an R4B and? T4XB and a TX-4, all meters sit at zero with power off. Not sure how to mechanically zero these meters but that is whats needed.?
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-------- Original message -------- From: ve3fit@... Date: 5/8/23 9:15 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: [DRAKE-RADIO] 2B S meter
Is it normal for the 2B S meter to sit at about S3 with power off?? I can zero it OK with power on, but it always rests at S3 when the? power is turned off.? Ken, VE3FIT
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Ken good evening.
I just looked over my shoulder at the 2B on the shelf and the S meter is resting at S-0.? Granted, it has been unplugged for a few weeks.
Hope this helps
73 de ki5o joe
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Is it normal for the 2B S meter to sit at about S3 with power off??
I can zero it OK with power on, but it always rests at S3 when the?
power is turned off.?
Ken, VE3FIT
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2-B 50kHz Alignment Question
Following the manual, with the BFO and PRODUCT DETECTOR on, I've connected a 50kHz unmodulated signal through a blocking capacitor to V5, Pin 1. While I can hear the signal, if I turn the tuning knob, it changes the zero-beat and that doesn't seem correct to me.
The manual doesn't give any "initial settings" for the alignment so I'm curious how one is to zero beat that oscillator. Is there something wrong with my 2-B such that tuning the VFO changes the zero-beat for this step? If not, I'm unclear how to go about this adjustment and am asking for any advice regarding that.
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
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+1 on using the +3 with the amplifier circuit.? I have one of these on my Kenwood hybrid rig and have gotten nothing but great reports with it.
73,
Paul
KA0JQF
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On Mon, 08 May 2023 16:36:14 -0700 "jerry-KF6VB" <jerry@...> wrote: Another item that the manual says I need to do an alignment is a VTVM.
Don't have one of those. This manual was written before DMMs with very high input impedance became common and cheap. A good DMM will work fine. I use a Fluke 8050A or Fluke 289. For reading audio level in dB and for watching for tuning peaks have a Helper sinadder 3 that works dandy. I obtained a 450Hz CW filter from Noble Radio and installed it. Now
we have viable CW! If you are a CW man you will want to have a look at this: Also, point of trivia: Drake did CW exactly the opposite of everyone else. The general convention is to have the dial display the zero beat frequency and the RX is offset to hear the signal. The TR7 offsets the TX, leaving the dial where it is. So you need to tune the dial low by the amount of your CW offset, usually 800 Hz, to be zero beat with the desired station. I'm planning to build an AUX7 card. There is ample information on the
Web and in the TR7 service manual to do that. I use the QST article boards from Far Circuits. Cheap easy to build. "WARC AND LF ON THE TR-7" 73 -Jim NU0C
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It' pretty simple. See attached schematic. Disconnect the white center conductor wire of the shielded audio cable at the right side of the drawing. Also disconnect the yellow hot wire from the cartridge at R12. Connect the wire from the cartridge to the center conductor of the shielded audio line. The mic cartridge will be on all the time with this change so VOX will work if you desire to use it. However, you might want to consider actually use the amplifier. While I normally discourage the use of amplified mics the +3 is unique in that it has an amplifier with compression. Our vintage Drakes have no audio processing at all so a compressor will help increase your average output a bit and give you a little more "punch". Keep the gain control at around 10 o'clock. I use a Lafayette badged all black +3 on my TR7 and get glowing audio reports. VOX will not work but could be enabled with another simple wiring change and using the relay/electronic switch on the bottom to break the PTT line. Either way, use pin 1 on the TR7 for mic audio. 73 -Jim NU0C On Mon, 08 May 2023 13:58:47 -0700 "Billy Pickering" <pickeringw@...> wrote: So I have picked up a Turner Plus Three microphone. It looks like the one they made for Drake with the 7075 except it is amplified. I remember seeing somewhere that all that can by bypassed and use as a non-amplified microphone. I'm wanting to put it with my TR7 or possibly change out the plug to use with my T-4XC and TR-4C. Does anyone know about doing this?
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Hello All,
My "ebay-INOP" TR-7 is mostly working. The problems were mostly in the connectors. The remaining problem is
occasional loss of lock. It happens at random times, a few times a day. A quick poke on the "RCV FIX" button fixes it. An appropriately named button!
I still haven't cleaned the connectors on the cards under the shield panel that is under the DR-7 display board. Maybe that will fix it up.
Also planning to do a full alignment, starting with the 10V - which I suspect is now 9V. At least, that's what's reaching the fan, from a pair of homebrew-added wires departing into the guts of the radio. Preparatory
to that, I discovered I needed a frequency counter. And it had to be reasonably sensitive. So I ordered - and
received about an hour ago - an HP 5385A. Supposed to be good down to 15mV RMS. Not wanting to pull out serious
instruments to check it out, I grabbed my Millen grid dip oscillator off the shelf, wound a clip lead around the coil and patched it up to a BNC. Yup, it's plenty sensitive. It measured the RF on my clip lead with the loop about an inch away from the GDO coil. And the Millen is well calibrated....for a GDO.
Another item that the manual says I need to do an alignment is a VTVM. Don't have one of those. Well, I'm
pretty sure there's an HP410B hiding in the junk somewhere, but darned if I can find it. Pretty sure I can
manage with an oscilloscope. But just for yuks, I ordered a Heathkit V7B on Ebay.
I replaced the trim pots on the power supply board with 10-turn units. The original pots had their pins in a triangular pattern; the 10-turn ones in my junkbox had the three pins all in a row. No problem - bend these that way a bit, and bend the middle one the other way, and they plug right in, tilted up a bit for easy tweaking. But the pots are sort of in mid-air hanging off their pins. And when you fuss with it - plugging the board in & out - they get bent out of position. Then you put them back, but you don't get to do that too many times before the pin breaks off - especially the leftmost pot. Reinforcement? I cut a strip of phenolic perfboard to a size just right to lay across the sides of
all the pots. Applied accelerant to the pots, cyanoacrylate cement to the perfboard and glued it to the pots. Now they're still hanging in midair, but in order to push one out of line, you have to push all of them, and it's a lot stronger.
I obtained a 450Hz CW filter from Noble Radio and installed it. Now we have viable CW! I decided to also get a 2.7 kHz SSB filter for better intelligibility. Also got a patch card and extender cards.
I'm planning to build an AUX7 card. There is ample information on the Web and in the TR7 service manual to do that. It will get me full WARC band coverage without cutting the "transmit anywhere" trace. Ebay yielded up
three baggies of 4-pin female Molex connectors ( P/N 09-62-3041 ). These are higher quality connectors than what Drake used - they have selective gold plating on the connection. More than I need, but I always get spares.
Also got some Augat machine sockets to connect & make the individual band modules. Plan to wire it up with 30gauge Kynar "wire wrap" wire, of which I have a good supply.
I did the mod to control the SSB power with the carrier level pot. Seems to work. I still can't use it with
my linear though; Need to figure a way to get band data out of the transceiver, OR - modify the linear to have its own bandswitch. I have resisted doing that because the LDMOS device is expensive and would be a genuine
PITA to replace. But it is protected; the linear has two tandem matches, one before its LPF, the other after.
- Jerry, KF6VB
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I had found that R50 (the 15M RF GAIN pot) in 2-B No. 2 read 26M.? I checked the pot in 2-B No 1 (the parts receiver) and it was 20M.? No. 3 also reads 20M and adjusts easily, to I decided to pull the pot from the parts rig and install it into No.2.
NOTHING WORKED RIGHT.
Traced wires and triple-checked all connections.? The RF GAIN control was doing nothing.
Long story short (for I'm being called to supper!), the wiper of the pot from the parts rig had a high resistance short to the case (and thus, to ground).
I cleared it with contact cleaner and it's okay now.? Meanwhile, I put the original pot back in with a 22M resistor in parallel with the terminals.? Receiver No. 2 is now aligned and ready for its bath tomorrow.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with secure email.
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Re: TUning on the lower bands with the MN-2000?
The Reactive is the large knob on the Left and the Restive is the large knob on the Right.? The band switch is in the middle of those knobs. So after setting to the correct band which would be middle knob counter clockwise for 80 meters start with the right knob for a dip and the left knob for a slight rise and repeat.
I am not real sure as I do not have the low power version to check now but the large knobs may be reversed on it.??
Ralph ku4pt
On Monday, May 8, 2023 at 05:06:28 PM EDT, Justin Mann via groups.io <w9fyi@...> wrote:
I¡¯m assuming the resistive tuning knob is the large knob on the left, and the reactive tuning knob is on the right, with the band switch in the middle? ?
On May 8, 2023, at 3:58 PM, Ralph Mowery via groups.io <ku4pt@...> wrote:
You are at a big disadvantage trying to tune this tuner..? Here is the way it needs to be done.
After setting the band switch tune the Resistive Tuning for a SWR dip. Then turn the Reactive Tuning to the Right a slight amount.? The SWR will increase.? Then tune the Restive tuning for a dip in the SWR.? If lower then repeat the process.? If higher , tune the Reactive tuning to the left and then tune the Resistive tuning for the lowest SWR.? Repeat the process several times if needed.
This seems to be similar to the way a tube transmitter tunes up.
The low power version tunes the same way.
Very different than most tuners I have used.
Ralph ku4pt
On Monday, May 8, 2023 at 04:15:49 PM EDT, Justin Mann via groups.io <w9fyi@...> wrote:
HI Ralph, I don¡¯t have an accessible manual for some one who is blind to use that tuner, so I¡¯ve been tuning for maximum noise, and using my audible tuning aid, a TW-1 made by LDG to try and get the SWR down. ?Can you give me some kind of a synopasys on what I should do? ?The pdfs are scanned, so they are difficult for me to get text extracted from the dockuments.
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I have 4 pieces of index card stock painted with Rustoleum "Satin Black, 7777" cut to fit each upper surface of the final cage.? Installed a computer fan on the back panel, exhausting out.? This pulls air up through the perforated metal bottom of the T4X-C final compartment, past the tube pin seals and around both tubes then out the back of the radio.?
It works wonderfully!? Have had the same set of finals in the radio for 15 years + and it still puts 140W to the antenna.
The T4X-C fan switches on with the radio.? On the TR4-CW, it turns on manually.? With the extra final and higher output, cooling the pin seals and envelope with everything off, including the filaments is a feature noted on every tube (and some solid-state) AM or FM broadcast transmitter I've ever come across.? Plus, when in the USCGR, we must have had 70 Collins HF-80's in various COMMSTA's and they were worked extremely hard, making several 3-1/2 hour-long WEFAX transmissions.
Chuck Rippel K8HU
-- Chuck Rippel, K8HU
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Re: TUning on the lower bands with the MN-2000?
I¡¯m assuming the resistive tuning knob is the large knob on the left, and the reactive tuning knob is on the right, with the band switch in the middle? ?
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On May 8, 2023, at 3:58 PM, Ralph Mowery via groups.io <ku4pt@...> wrote:
You are at a big disadvantage trying to tune this tuner..? Here is the way it needs to be done.
After setting the band switch tune the Resistive Tuning for a SWR dip. Then turn the Reactive Tuning to the Right a slight amount.? The SWR will increase.? Then tune the Restive tuning for a dip in the SWR.? If lower then repeat the process.? If higher , tune the Reactive tuning to the left and then tune the Resistive tuning for the lowest SWR.? Repeat the process several times if needed.
This seems to be similar to the way a tube transmitter tunes up.
The low power version tunes the same way.
Very different than most tuners I have used.
Ralph ku4pt
On Monday, May 8, 2023 at 04:15:49 PM EDT, Justin Mann via groups.io <w9fyi@...> wrote:
HI Ralph, I don¡¯t have an accessible manual for some one who is blind to use that tuner, so I¡¯ve been tuning for maximum noise, and using my audible tuning aid, a TW-1 made by LDG to try and get the SWR down. ?Can you give me some kind of a synopasys on what I should do? ?The pdfs are scanned, so they are difficult for me to get text extracted from the dockuments.
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Jim Shorney
Chuck Rippel - K8HU and ex - NMN