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Hi Group

I have a nema 42 sanyo denki type number 103-8932-0240 stepper motor which I cannot find any data for on the sanyo website. It is a 3.6 volt 6.1 amp 8 wire motor that is probably very big overkill for my router but I already have it. Can anyone offer an educated guess of probable speed with a API CMD-260 controller running between 36 to 72 volts. I would prefer to use maximum microstep for smoothest possible cutting.

Bob Thomas

The Chevalier CNC I used for several years had a manual mode in which
servos were fully disconnected, and no pronies, etc. ALL mills will
occasionally send the table flying if table locks are not employed. The
only time I ever had this happen, it was on a plain screw horizontal
Cincinnati.




At 08:22 PM 10/30/02 -0600, you wrote:

The caveat on using a ballscrew feed in a manual mill is
because the ballscrew provides virtually no friction,
compared to an acme screw feed. You'd want a small prony
brake, or some kind of damper to keep the table from moving
when you took your hand off the crank. Best bet is to
couple the ballscrews to either a servo or stepper (in that
order of preference) as they would effectively hold
position at the end of each move, assuming that they are
controlled by a CNC system.

RayHex

----------

From: C.S. Mo <cs@...>

To bring back a question that has been recently discussed

with Ballscrews

but not Acme rod..

I have roughly .015" backlash in my X and Y travels. I've

heard talk

about "double-nutting" in order to reduce backlash. Has

anyone done this

to one of the little Mill/Drills? Any advice on how to go

about doing it?

I've considered going to ball screws but my

understanding is that ball

screws make it so that the machine can not be used for

manual milling -

is that correct?

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Regards, Hoyt McKagen

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Chris and Dee wrote:

This may get axed as off topic - and if so I apologize and would welcome people to respond off list, its just that I know of no other group that would have good ideas.
When I'm machining manually, I don't mind so much using the squirt bottle for coolant supply. However, I'm not so sure that's going to cut it when I get the CNC running so I wanted to setup an easily controlled flood coolant system (but cheap - since I'm good like that). I was going to try building one using a windshield washer pump. You can basically get them next to free (if not free) at a junkyard and they're easily controlled with a dc relay off the parallel port. Has anybody tried this? Anybody know any good reasons why this may not work? The only concern I have is duty cycle, but if another pump is practically free, maybe its not an issue. THoughts?

You might check out the last picture and text on
I used a 110 V pump from Little Giant. These are normally used for condensate return
in larger air conditioners, but turn up cheap on the surplus market now and then.

Jon

Bubba:
The reason for the cost increase is the linear strips instead of rotary, my
father and I are working on this together and he doesnt like the idea of
using a wire than can slip or stretch when linear scales are available for a
little extra. Since I use my mill/drill for building match-grade rifles,
slippage like could happen with a wire could cause massive problems if a
hole is .001" in the wrong place, X/Y location is critical in most stuff I
do, but depth isnt as critical as most critical parts are through-holes
instead of plunge cuts.

John

Jeff:
Hm, Its probably just the difference in the way the companies describe their
product. Thanks for the info. Even with the increased price I'll probably
go with their scales and encoders.

John

I hear what you're saying about the slop in the drill press. Another idea I
thought of was to mount a hand router stationary above the cross slide.
Aren't routers supposed to be made for lateral pressures?

John

You bet we will. I only completely failed once last year and that was an
older laptop for list mom! Don't you just hate it when that happens!

I don't know the schedule yet for the two seminars that Roland is hosting
but anytime Sunday other than that would be good for me. We could even
spill over to the Motel after they close the arena doors.

BTW (shameless plug) I just received bdi 2.18 and a revised TNG from
Paul. For newbies, BDI is the Brain Dead Install of the Enhanced Machine
Controller. BDI 2.18 includes an abreviated Red Hat 6.2 Linux with RT
Linux real time extensions. TNG, The Next Generation BDI includes a
rather good sampling of Red Hat 7.2 with RTAI real time extensions. Both
include the same very recent EMC and revised html and pdf versions of the
handbook. I'm sending these out on CD's printed with an awesome graphic
done by Rab Gordon and Kevin Urquhart of Rannea Graphics. No beer
coasters here, this is a definite collectors item.<g>

Ray

? ?From: "jmkasunich" <jmkasunich@...>
Subject: Re: NAMES get together

<s>

Question for Ray Henry: ?Will there be BDI installs, etc., at
NAMES next year?

John Kasunich

Keith Bowers wrote:

AD2S90-EB PRODUCTION Evaluation Boards - COMMERCIAL $89.06 AD2S90AP PRODUCTION PLASTIC LEAD CHIP CARRIER 20 COMMERCIAL $29.16

-------
I expect to need a 2-axis resolver to quadratyre board, so I did a bit more checking.

The evaluation board price above is quantity 1.

Unfortunately the above price for the chip is quantity 100 and is not available for online purchase from Analog Devices WEB site.
Pioneer has ad2s90ap in stock with the quantity 1 price as $44.86. You probably want an ad2s99 reference oscillator @$10.73 too, but out of stock.
At a guess a 2-axis board with just quadrature output could probably be hand wired for around $125 with all new parts.

More thinking is in order; such as serial out to a computer.

I have looked at these, and someone finally got smart! The cost for a 12 bit board back in 99 was very high. It took 2 8 bit convertor chips, a special chip to add their outputs together, and a high priced osc. The 8 bit chips were on the order of $300.00 each as I remember, and the adder was about the same.
Bill Higdon

CS,
There are many references on the web:


RichD

"C.S. Mo" wrote:

AD2S90-EB PRODUCTION Evaluation Boards - COMMERCIAL $89.06
AD2S90AP PRODUCTION PLASTIC LEAD CHIP CARRIER 20 COMMERCIAL $29.16

-------
I expect to need a 2-axis resolver to quadratyre board, so I did a bit more
checking.

The evaluation board price above is quantity 1.

Unfortunately the above price for the chip is quantity 100 and is not
available for online purchase from Analog Devices WEB site.

Pioneer has ad2s90ap in stock with the quantity 1 price as $44.86. You
probably want an ad2s99 reference oscillator @$10.73 too, but out of stock.

At a guess a 2-axis board with just quadrature output could probably be hand
wired for around $125 with all new parts.

More thinking is in order; such as serial out to a computer.
--
Keith Bowers - Thomasville, NC

What is a "prony brake"? I have a pair of servo motors but they do not
seem to provide any resistance with the power off. I want to be able to
use the machine for manual machining as well as CNC...

--C.S.

We switched our gantry router design from steppers to servo motors
and now have two ah-ha PS4000 motors for sale ( Pac. Sci. mod #
K42HLHN-LNK-NS-OO)with 35' factory power leads. They have never been
mounted or had power to them . 30% off ah-ha current price.

Please contact me off list
Ken TerBorch
Defense Technologies Inc.

The caveat on using a ballscrew feed in a manual mill is
because the ballscrew provides virtually no friction,
compared to an acme screw feed. You'd want a small prony
brake, or some kind of damper to keep the table from moving
when you took your hand off the crank. Best bet is to
couple the ballscrews to either a servo or stepper (in that
order of preference) as they would effectively hold
position at the end of each move, assuming that they are
controlled by a CNC system.

RayHex

----------

From: C.S. Mo <cs@...>

To bring back a question that has been recently discussed

with Ballscrews

but not Acme rod..

I have roughly .015" backlash in my X and Y travels. I've

heard talk

about "double-nutting" in order to reduce backlash. Has

anyone done this

to one of the little Mill/Drills? Any advice on how to go

about doing it?

I've considered going to ball screws but my

understanding is that ball

screws make it so that the machine can not be used for

manual milling -

is that correct?

Hello,

The scales I have here are 600mm length that I bought for $49 so
something changed price-wise.

The way I understand it, the 25CPMM module actually has 2 light
sources in it that are perfectly offset so as to double the
resolution of the scale it is reading. The 2 light sources then send
the signal out and that's what you can then quadrature.

I am using the parallel port based DRO HW/SW from Art Eckstein. I
have it running on a notebook. I have just got a spare desktop
machine and monitor for in by the lathe so I will probably get one of
Dan's cards soon. I do get 0.01mm resolution and have confirmed the
measurments with both actual items turned and the dials on the
lathe.

TTYL, Jeff

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "John A. McFadden" <mcfadden@c...> wrote:

Jeff:
Its $85 for 600mm, $50 for 166-200mm lengths (asked about that

length range

for my Y and Z axis).
Its a good thing you mentioned EncoderTech, I never did the math on

the

metric scales, and only looked at the 720CPI scales but took them

off my

list of possibles when they said that they did not have any longer

than

3.25". With .0004" resolution and Don Mauch's method for

protecting the

strips, it looks like I am good to go.

I am also a little confused by the math, the US Digital encoders

and strips

can only quadrature out, giving the resolution as four times the

lines per

inch of the scales, but Encoder Tech's encoders double the

resolution and

then quadrature it? Seems a little strange to me, but if it works,

it

works. What are you using to read the output of the encoder? Are

you

getting .01mm resolution?

John

Raymond Heckert wrote:

I was planning to use a windshield washer, in conjunction
with a '555' timer circuit to give me adjustable spurts of
coolant, instead of flooding,

Ray, the pump on the windshield washer will burn up after about 5
minutes of continuous use. They aren't built for anything close
to continuous use.

JerryK

I was planning to use a windshield washer, in conjunction
with a '555' timer circuit to give me adjustable spurts of
coolant, instead of flooding, 'cause, some jobs, I have a
wet-vac that I use to suck up chips as they're being cut...
getting the swarf outa there keeps the finish better, and
extends the life of the cutting edge. as far as being O.T.,
I plan on using my M07 relay output for the intermittent,
and M08 for continuous, with M09 shutting off both relays.

RayHex

----------

From: Chris and Dee <brunoblazer@...>

This may get axed as off topic - and if so I apologize

and would

welcome people to respond off list, its just that I know

of no other

group that would have good ideas.

When I'm machining manually, I don't mind so much using

the squirt

bottle for coolant supply. However, I'm not so sure

that's going to

cut it when I get the CNC running so I wanted to setup an

easily

controlled flood coolant system (but cheap - since I'm

good like

that). I was going to try building one using a

windshield washer

pump. You can basically get them next to free (if not

free) at a

junkyard and they're easily controlled with a dc relay

off the

parallel port. Has anybody tried this? Anybody know any

good

reasons why this may not work? The only concern I have

is duty

cycle, but if another pump is practically free, maybe its

not an

issue. THoughts?


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URL to this group:

OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:

aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru
Google.com to reach it if you have trouble.

I

consider this to be a sister site to the CCED group, as
many of the same members are there, for OT subjects, that
are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN

BY POSTING THEM. DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT
THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........

bill
List Mom
List Owner



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

I've tried it, but could only get it to work with the mill module.
Seems to work well.

The lathe module never worked for me, but if anyone knows a way to get
it to work, please share.

I sent in a request for support, but haven't got a reply in about 3
weeks now. But it's free, so I can't complain.

Cheers.

Hi C.S.,

Firstly I have a concern about your band saw and mill stands.
Although your welds look very good, you still should consider adding
braces to the legs! As you raise and lower your saw head you're

The bandsaw stand is boxed so I wouldn't worry about that. The mill stand
is 2x2 1/4" wall square steel tube - you could park a truck on it....

----

To bring back a question that has been recently discussed with Ballscrews
but not Acme rod..

I have roughly .015" backlash in my X and Y travels. I've heard talk
about "double-nutting" in order to reduce backlash. Has anyone done this
to one of the little Mill/Drills? Any advice on how to go about doing it?
I've considered going to ball screws but my understanding is that ball
screws make it so that the machine can not be used for manual milling -
is that correct?

--C.S.

'dspinnett', A leadscrew that's, say, 12.004" instead of
12.000" for "x" pitches would be, more than likely, 3.001
at 3.000, 6.002 at 6.000, and 9.003 at 9.000. Very rarely,
due to the mfg processes used, do the actual pitches vary
back & forth. So, if you're lucky, you can use your
software to compensate for the 0.00033 per inch
discrepancy. Good Luck!

RayHex

----------

From: dspinnett <dspinnett@...>

My work envelope at one shot is rarely over 6" anyway.

Would that

justify .001 screws and anti-backlash? I'd like to be

accurate over

6" within a couple thou if practical.

Final goal is to make mini running engines, and probably

a full size

engine too. The 'Griz' doesn't seem too bad overall -

better quality

that the lathe anyway. (both are brand new).

I've been using a 2.5 gallon parts washer on my Bandsaw very
successfully.. The only real problem I have with it is I haven't had time
to make a decent cover for it so the coolant evaporates very quickly.
I've also been meaning to make a real drip pan - for now I just clamped
the parts washer underneath the bandsaw table with a bit of overhang on
both sides. The parts washer cost me $30 and I picked up a couple 1/4"
NPT connectors and a valve at Home Despot for another $5. Not quite free
but pretty cheap... Runs on 110..etc.

--C.S.