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Re: 10 amps to drive steppers

Dan Mauch
 

The camtroinc controllers run just fine without a motor connected.
No damage will occcurr with the drivers if a motor is left off.
Never disconnect or connect a stepper motor while the power is on. You will
create an inductive spike which can fry the output chips.
If a stepper in connected to the power supply and the unit is shut off then
the cap will be discharged by the motor. But if you are testing the
ciircuits without a stepper connected then a resisdual charge will be held
on the the electrolytic caps.
Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: Mo <mo@...>
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@... <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Date: Monday, June 14, 1999 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] 10 amps to drive steppers


From: "Mo" <mo@...>


From: Jon Elson <jmelson@...>
A properly designed stepper driver shouldn't be troubled by operating
with no load. Unplugging or plugging in the motor while the driver is
active could cause some arcing that might cause damage, but just running
the driver with no motor connected shouldn't be a problem.
Jon, unfortunately both types of board I have here warn that this is a
certainty
and I believe the Camtronics boards are the same. I have inadvertantly
killed one that way.
It must be in the design, as you say. Where a manufacurer warn specifically
that their design
will be seriously damaged by this - it is good to take the precaution.





Here's what I did, although it is on a servo system, but the problems are
similar. The E-stop signal on my system releases a pair of relays (one
a signal size, the other a power contactor). When these relays are
released, they connect a power resistor to the servo amps power
input, discharging the power supplies. When the relays are engaged,
first the signal relay closes, connecting the same power resistor in
series with the DC supply and the servo amps. Another contact on
this relay connects power through to a time delay circuit. After
a 1 second delay, giving time for the resistor to ramp up the
voltage in the servo amps, the power contactor closes, delivering direct
power to the servo amps. When this relay closes, it also connects
the enable input to the servo amps to +12, turning them on.
This gets rid of all the high DV/DT transients when powering things
up and down, and makes sure that whenever there is a fault, everything
is powered down in a controlled manner.
Perfect power up and enable sequencing. The power bleed resistors are the
absolute
minimum needed for those that do not have a similar set-up and are still in
the process of playing around with their assembly.
Jon do you have a schematic for that set-up - if not I could knock
something
up and put it on Tim's site for members who would like to go that route.


Mo




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Re: New member, something interesting

Dan Mauch
 

I have some low cost thompson 5/8" .200 pitch rolled ballscrews on my mill
drill. They cost .98 and inch from McMaster -Carr and thre ballnuts are $18.
I replaced the .1243 balls with .1248 ball and reduced the b/l to about
.002. They work great on machines like the mill drill and the shoptask.
Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: Jon Anderson <janders@...>
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@... <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Date: Monday, June 14, 1999 3:20 PM
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] New member, something interesting


From: Jon Anderson <janders@...>

Hi, I'm new to the list, thought I'd introduce myself. I presently have
a heavily modified MAXNC and am building a CNC retrofit for my Hardinge
chucker, Omniturn style.
Using Ah-ha software at the moment on the MAX, but I'm going to be
building up a Linux box and giving that a shot.
Modifications to my MAXNC include 198 oz/in PacSci motors, Computmotor
OEM 650 drivers, motor mount plates with preloaded ball bearings to
handle thrust loads, BS&A ActiveCam nuts and 16 pitch screws, a Sherline
spindle assy and DC motor.
Somewhere down the road when I get some free time I'm going to post
drawings of all the mods, making them available at no cost.
If anyone has seen the Flashcut CNC Sherline at the Santa Clara Machine
Tool show a couple years ago, I built it.

Something I just ran across that might be of interest to some folks is a
new low cost ball screw from Thomson. They have a design contest going
and are giving out free samples for as long as they last, you can apply
at
Just got mine today. These sure are no substitute for ground or even
precision rolled screws, but they just might have some potential for the
low end HSM CNC. Screw dia is fixed at .380 with a 16 pitch. Lengths
available are 6", 12, 18, 24, 36, and 48".
Nut has no provisions for mounting and is .75 in dia and .775 long.
There is a single return tube held in place by an injection molded cap.
Backlash specs are between .002 to .007, mine came in at .005. It should
be possible to clamp two nuts in a split block with perhaps a spring
washer to help set a light preload (obviously, before the nuts are
clamped).
Mine felt a bit rough, but was dry. A bit of grease helped a lot.
Mounting these on a Sherline would require some significant
modifications, less so for a MAXNC. They might well be a viable option
for a scratch built machine. I saw this in last months Machine Design.
The screw came out of new mfg methods developed for the automotive
industry and mention was made that they could cost as little as $5 ea.
Obviously a qty price, but it ought to give an idea where these might
sit relative to existing ball screws.

Jon

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Re: FAQ etc

 

In a message dated 6/15/99 3:45:25 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
rhj-rbj@... writes:

So come on you lot express yourselves as I am sure I am not the only one.
cheers
There are 201 members on the list this morning, and that means a lot of
lurkers. I hereby give you guys (gals?) permission to join in on the
discussions....... grin.
bill
List Manager


Re: Vaccum Forming

 

Anyone has done a vaccum forming machine for home use?

Mario


THANX

 

Figured out how to use archives...very helpful!!!!!
Tracey


FAQ etc

"Raynor Johnston" <[email protected]
 

Hi guys I think your response to the suggestion is great and certainly appreciated by yours truely but as it would take time for you busy guys to put together it might be a good idea to check out whether all those other lurkers do in fact exist out there and ask them if they would also appreciate the page.
So come on you lot express yourselves as I am sure I am not the only one.
cheers
Raynor J


Re: ball screws Backlash

 

Dan,
I'm not sure how to reply without getting a bunch of the old mail included
sorry.
But about your lead screws, how do I contact Thompson? As far as the
backlash error, if you preload two ballscrews against each other couldn't you
effectively eliminate the backlash? I know the more expensive mills used
backlash eliminators (see page 97 of "Machine Shop Practice" Vol. 2, if I
ever get a scanner I'll send PICS instead of references) with two nuts and
adj. preload on the nuts with acme lead screws. It not only nearly eliminated
backlash but also prevented damage to the cutters servos, etc., when climb
milling with heavy feeds. This was the approach I was going to take with my
mill, however the ball screw setup seems to be a better way to go to cut down
on the drag and size of the servos required.
Tracey DeChambeau


Re: Vac Forming

 

Hi Folks:

I am looking for someone to do some vaccum forming of RC micro heli canopies.
Looking for 10 units at the moment. I provide the plug (s). Please call me
or write to me direct. I do not want to go with a large company because of
the high cost involved for such short order. I am looking for someone that
knows how to vac form and has descent equipment. Someone that does this from
home perhaps? I am pressed for time, otherwise I would vac form the canopies
myself. Material has to be lightest available, styrene or similar clear.

TIA
Mario

773-777-1692


Re: MaxNC modifications

Andrew Werby
 

Jon Anderson <janders@...>
Subject: New member, something interesting

Hi, I'm new to the list, thought I'd introduce myself.

[Welcome aboard, Jon!]

I presently have
a heavily modified MAXNC and am building a CNC retrofit for my Hardinge
chucker, Omniturn style.
Using Ah-ha software at the moment on the MAX, but I'm going to be
building up a Linux box and giving that a shot.

[What is the advantage to using Aha software on the MaxNC, over using their
supplied software?]

Modifications to my MAXNC include 198 oz/in PacSci motors,

[Were these easy to mount, or did you need to machine new mounting plates?
How much were these motors, and did you get them new or surplus?]

Computmotor
OEM 650 drivers,

[Where did these come from? Are they what Aha recommends?]

motor mount plates with preloaded ball bearings to
handle thrust loads,

[Were these something you purchased or built from scratch? ]

BS&A ActiveCam nuts and 16 pitch screws,

[Are these ball-screws, or is this an anti-backlash modification to
standard screws?]

a Sherline
spindle assy and DC motor.
Somewhere down the road when I get some free time I'm going to post
drawings of all the mods, making them available at no cost.
If anyone has seen the Flashcut CNC Sherline at the Santa Clara Machine
Tool show a couple years ago, I built it.

Something I just ran across that might be of interest to some folks is a
new low cost ball screw from Thomson. They have a design contest going
and are giving out free samples for as long as they last, you can apply
at
Just got mine today. These sure are no substitute for ground or even
precision rolled screws, but they just might have some potential for the
low end HSM CNC. Screw dia is fixed at .380 with a 16 pitch. Lengths
available are 6", 12, 18, 24, 36, and 48".
Nut has no provisions for mounting and is .75 in dia and .775 long.
There is a single return tube held in place by an injection molded cap.
Backlash specs are between .002 to .007, mine came in at .005. It should
be possible to clamp two nuts in a split block with perhaps a spring
washer to help set a light preload (obviously, before the nuts are
clamped).

[Do you think they would fit a stock zero-backlash nut?]

Mine felt a bit rough, but was dry. A bit of grease helped a lot.
Mounting these on a Sherline would require some significant
modifications, less so for a MAXNC. They might well be a viable option
for a scratch built machine. I saw this in last months Machine Design.
The screw came out of new mfg methods developed for the automotive
industry and mention was made that they could cost as little as $5 ea.
Obviously a qty price, but it ought to give an idea where these might
sit relative to existing ball screws.

Jon

[Do you think the 48" screws would be adequate to run a CNC router, or are
they too skinny? Was there any indication of their price in small
quantities (like six each?) I've been thinking about building a "big cube"
router from scratch, and cheapness is definitely a consideration, but I
thought I'd probably need beefier screws than this, or some other kind of
drive mechanism. Any advice is welcome, including thoughts on the control
system and the advisability of using linear motion bearings versus other
systems, (like skateboard wheels rolling on angle-iron rails).]

Andrew Werby

Andrew Werby - United Artworks
Sculpture, Jewelry, and Other Art Stuff


Re: Installing rotary encoders

Jon Elson
 

From: "Ted" <rtr@...>

This procedure isn't difficult, but must be understood to successfully
install a rotary encoder where none have been before.


Then drill and tap for a couple of set screws at 90 degrees to allow you to
indicate it in. Put the indicator near the end of the pin, because that's
where the coupling will fit. The pin doesn't needto stick out more that an
inch when you finish. You can cut it off and file the end when you have it
in place, indicated, and clamped with the set screws. Do thiswork on the
pin gently then indicate it again. Encoders don't like a lot of vibration
so bring it within 3 thousandths or better. I'm always happier if it
comes within one and a half thousandths.
Most encoder warranties are voided by NOT using an appropriate coupling.
I use couplings made from a single piece of metal, slotted helically to provide
radial and axial compliance, but no torsional compliance.


You can connect it with an oldham coupler or similar low inertia couplers.
Surprisingly, if you mount it so the shaft pin and the encoder pin come
within a few thousandths beyond the slop in the system, you can use a piece
of surgical tubing for the coupling. You can add an outer layer of heat
shrink tubing if you think the surgical tubing is too compliant, but I've
never had to. The extra stiffness will transmit more vibration to the
encoder, a bad trade off. There is little friction in good encoder
bearings so the surgical tubing wall thickness is adaquate for a coupling.
Obviously, you can't do this if you need to drive the screw or brake it
through the encoder shaft, a bad idea in any case.
Actually, many good encoders have a fair amount of drag in their
bearings. They use a pair of angular contact bearings with preload, to
stiffly constrain the shaft from any radial movement, which would
show up incorrectly as rotation. They also have at least one, usually
two shaft seals, to keep crud out of the bearings, and grease out
of the optics. That all adds up to inch-ounces of static drag.
I'm using 1000 line encoders, counting all transitions, so that is
4000 counts/rev, or more than a count for every tenth of a degree.
It would be foolish to waste that accuracy with a homemade coupling
that allowed twist to develop. Also, the metal coupling is good for
many years, what if the surgical rubber turned to gum? Do you know
what OIL does to LATEX? Yucck!


Besides eccentricity in the rotation of the encoder coupling pin, the error
that kills the most encoders is failure to allow enough room between the
ends of these two shafts. All sorts of distortions occur when an axis is
stopped after a rapid movement. Ten thousandths of longitudional slop is
not unusual in a ball screw, more in an acme screw.
I don't know how a precision machine could possibly keep any accuracy
if there is .010" longitudinal movement of the screw! I have a total of
.001" of slack in my mill, and I'd like to find the sources, and reduce it.
But, that is the sum of ALL the sources of slack, like torsion of the
leadscrew, shaft couplings, bowing of the screw, slack in the angular
contact bearings, slop in the anti-backlash ballnut, etc. etc.

Jon


Re: EMC stepper & misc fixes

Tim Goldstein
 

OK, now I am guilty of replying to my own posts.

I found a problem in the new jun-14 build. When in manual mode the first
time you do a jog on an axis it moves at about .5 ipm. After the first move
all subsequent moves are at the rate indicated in the feed rate box. If you
go into another mode and then return to manual the S L O W move returns
for the first move.

I am not quite sure on this one, but I think it occurred. I will try it
again next chance I have at the machine. I believe I ran the Verify on a
file and it showed no errors, but when I ran the part it errored on a G2
command with the traditional "your end and start radius don't match within
an angstrom".

Tim
[Denver, CO]

-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Goldstein [mailto:timg@...]
Sent: Monday, June 14, 1999 11:13 PM
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] EMC stepper & misc fixes


From: "Tim Goldstein" <timg@...>

I downloaded and installed the new build with no problems tonight
and had a
few minutes to play with it. The Verify button is a big improvement in my
mind as we can now at least parse through some code real quickly without
having to run the machine or start up a simulation. I played with
using the
Run From Set Point as Matt suggested, but found that it was a little flaky
about starting at my chosen point. Seemed to work sometimes and
not others.
The Verify button seems easy to use and reliable.

Thanks Fred for the rapid updates!!

Tim
[Denver, CO]

-----Original Message-----
From: Fred Proctor [mailto:proctor@...]
Sent: Monday, June 14, 1999 11:29 AM
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] EMC stepper & misc fixes


From: Fred Proctor <proctor@...>

EMC users,

I just put a new release of the EMC code on the FTP site. This contains
a fix to the following error abort action and some new features. Thanks
to Tim Goldstein for pointing these out. Details:

1. The following error abort code only looked at errors in one
direction. This explains why the following errors only kicked in half
the time. I wonder how this went uncorrected so long. Perhaps we were
blaming hardware?

2. Part program verification. Forget about the "rs274ngc" command-line
utility I mentioned. There is now a "Verify" button on the xemc GUI.
Click this after you've opened a part program and it will run through
checking syntax, cutter comp gouging, limit violations, etc. Let me know
how well this works.

3. Stepper motor setup is less painful, hopefully. In your .ini file,
set the steps-per-unit value in the [AXIS_*] INPUT_SCALE line for each
motor, and the maximum feed rate you want in the [TRAJ] MAX_VELOCITY
line. The cycle time for the stepper task is calculated automatically.
Note that you still have to tune the MAX_VELOCITY so that you don't
exceed your motor capabilities or
run the stepper task so fast you starve everything else.

See the emc/doc/RELEASE_NOTES, aka emc-14-Jun-1999.txt on the FTP site,
for slightly more detail.

Field experiences greatly appreciated. Happy Flag Day.

--Fred>

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Re: FAQ-Volunteer???

Jon Elson
 

WAnliker@... wrote:

From: WAnliker@...

In a message dated 6/14/99 11:37:25 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
rhj-rbj@... writes:

I suspect many others are like me in that regard. It could be good for us '
newbies' if there was a FAQ page somewhere and many of us I think would lap
up a "this is how to it deal" with support from independent list people who
can confirm it all works.
I do not have anyplace to put such a list. If anyone has space, and would
like to run that section of the list, please contact me and we will see what
we can do.
I don't know how much space I can get before people come after me with
pitchforks, but a couple megabytes should be no problem. So, text would
be OK, but if you are thinking pictures, then it could be too much.

I already have a web site, which I intend to add a lot more CAD/CAM
info to.

Jon


Re: EMC stepper & misc fixes

Tim Goldstein
 

I downloaded and installed the new build with no problems tonight and had a
few minutes to play with it. The Verify button is a big improvement in my
mind as we can now at least parse through some code real quickly without
having to run the machine or start up a simulation. I played with using the
Run From Set Point as Matt suggested, but found that it was a little flaky
about starting at my chosen point. Seemed to work sometimes and not others.
The Verify button seems easy to use and reliable.

Thanks Fred for the rapid updates!!

Tim
[Denver, CO]

-----Original Message-----
From: Fred Proctor [mailto:proctor@...]
Sent: Monday, June 14, 1999 11:29 AM
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] EMC stepper & misc fixes


From: Fred Proctor <proctor@...>

EMC users,

I just put a new release of the EMC code on the FTP site. This contains
a fix to the following error abort action and some new features. Thanks
to Tim Goldstein for pointing these out. Details:

1. The following error abort code only looked at errors in one
direction. This explains why the following errors only kicked in half
the time. I wonder how this went uncorrected so long. Perhaps we were
blaming hardware?

2. Part program verification. Forget about the "rs274ngc" command-line
utility I mentioned. There is now a "Verify" button on the xemc GUI.
Click this after you've opened a part program and it will run through
checking syntax, cutter comp gouging, limit violations, etc. Let me know
how well this works.

3. Stepper motor setup is less painful, hopefully. In your .ini file,
set the steps-per-unit value in the [AXIS_*] INPUT_SCALE line for each
motor, and the maximum feed rate you want in the [TRAJ] MAX_VELOCITY
line. The cycle time for the stepper task is calculated automatically.
Note that you still have to tune the MAX_VELOCITY so that you don't
exceed your motor capabilities or
run the stepper task so fast you starve everything else.

See the emc/doc/RELEASE_NOTES, aka emc-14-Jun-1999.txt on the FTP site,
for slightly more detail.

Field experiences greatly appreciated. Happy Flag Day.

--Fred>


Re: 10 amps to drive steppers

Tim Goldstein
 

Mo or Jon,

Would love to have a schematic of this setup and would definitely be happy
to get it posted.

Regarding disconnecting a motor on a Camtronics board while it is powered
and running, I inadvertently did this once and the board survived with no
harmful side effects. I may have been lucky as I only had some small NEMA 23
motors set up at about 1 amp.

Tim
[Denver, CO]

-----Original Message-----
From: Mo [mailto:mo@...]
Sent: Monday, June 14, 1999 7:50 PM
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] 10 amps to drive steppers


From: "Mo" <mo@...>


From: Jon Elson <jmelson@...>
A properly designed stepper driver shouldn't be troubled by operating
with no load. Unplugging or plugging in the motor while the driver is
active could cause some arcing that might cause damage, but just running
the driver with no motor connected shouldn't be a problem.
Jon, unfortunately both types of board I have here warn that this is a
certainty
and I believe the Camtronics boards are the same. I have inadvertantly
killed one that way.
It must be in the design, as you say. Where a manufacurer warn
specifically
that their design
will be seriously damaged by this - it is good to take the precaution.





Here's what I did, although it is on a servo system, but the
problems are
similar. The E-stop signal on my system releases a pair of relays (one
a signal size, the other a power contactor). When these relays are
released, they connect a power resistor to the servo amps power
input, discharging the power supplies. When the relays are engaged,
first the signal relay closes, connecting the same power resistor in
series with the DC supply and the servo amps. Another contact on
this relay connects power through to a time delay circuit. After
a 1 second delay, giving time for the resistor to ramp up the
voltage in the servo amps, the power contactor closes, delivering direct
power to the servo amps. When this relay closes, it also connects
the enable input to the servo amps to +12, turning them on.
This gets rid of all the high DV/DT transients when powering things
up and down, and makes sure that whenever there is a fault, everything
is powered down in a controlled manner.
Perfect power up and enable sequencing. The power bleed resistors are the
absolute
minimum needed for those that do not have a similar set-up and
are still in
the process of playing around with their assembly.
Jon do you have a schematic for that set-up - if not I could
knock something
up and put it on Tim's site for members who would like to go that route.


Mo




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Re: electrical help needed: kinda ot

 

Ted,
Check out e-bay. When I searched on transformers I was flooded with a list
of thousands of those darned toys that switch from a car to a robot...after
wading through them there are a few links here - note shipping will be a
@*!@'^1 though sea shipping should be reasonable.
You can e-mail the advertisers to get more info obviously it's ultimately
for you to check out the suitability of whatever you see.

If you are real hungry check this out
!!!!!

there are smaller units which may be suitable:




Mo

I didnt make it clear, the problem is that most all the
control, heaters, transformers, would have to be changed some 440 some
110(DC)
hardinge is tring to find a wiring diagram, they said not to hold my
breath. thats why they said a step up transformer from 220
to 440 would be the way to go just hook it up


Re: EMC C code - Real Time DOS and Win 3.1

James Eckman
 

From: Jon Elson <jmelson@...>
Well, it is not so simple, because EMC is not a single program, but a
combination of several.
I never claimed it would be, but it could be done because it has been
done in the past.

The final nail in the coffin of these OSs is that
they offer NO PROTECTION to any program component! That
means any mistake could cause the machine to run away! Very
dangerous.
Linux can be unstable also, although the kernal has been greatly cleaned
up over the years. A true benefit of open source.

The problem with nailing this coffin is some customers insist on certain
tools and OSes being used, even if there is a better alternative.

P.S. I have started looking for a used laptop to run Linux/EMC on,
anybody
done this yet? I'll probably use steppers driven through the parallel
port
in some combination. The only problem could be is an X windows driver
for
a particular laptop combined with a non-standard parallel port. What is
the minimum umph the CPU needs to run EMC with steppers? I would assume
this would blow off the servo loops and unload quite a bit of CPU time.

Jim Eckman


Re: electrical help needed: kinda ot

Ted
 

rtr@...
You have three phase coming in so you need to find a three phase
transformer to go from 220 to 440 or you need three single phase 220 to 440
transformers. If you can get two transformers that put out about double
the required current (see below), and you have a ghost phase coming in,
that is, there are really only two transformers on the pole stepping down
from the higher voltage lines to the 220 three phase coming into your shop,
you can use just these two heavier duty transformers on the real phases
coming in.

You need about twice the capacity on these two transformers because the
current for the ghost phase is still going through these two transformers.
You can usually discover with a voltmeter and a clamp on ammeter which is
the ghost phase. When you load it with this machine or any other, if you
are loading the ghost phase, the three voltages on the primary will be
further out of balance than if you are not loading the ghost phase.

The shop may be wired with a delta off which the main phase is split so you
get 120 volts on each end of that phase to the center of that phase, which
is grounded. When you look at the power pole, the large transformer is
providing that phase. You hook up one transformer across that to get two
legs of 440v. Then you hook up the stinger, the 208 volt to ground to
either leg of the main phase you already identified. Record your readings,
then disconnect from the main phase transformer and reconnect to the other
end of the main phase transformer. Record your readings again and, if it
is now more balanced than when hooked to the other leg, leave it.
Otherwise, disconnect it anc reconnect to the other leg.

Not as easy as the first two solutions.

The other way, and you are going to have to do this anyway if the
manufacturer can't find the prints, is to trace out the circuits. Time
consuming, but you can't really troubleshoot properly without a print, so
if you can't get one you must make one. Experienced people who do any more
than very simple troubleshooting without prints often burn up machines.

This sounds complicated, but it isn't electronics, it doesn't require a
scope, and it submits to any reasonably intelligent person for the price of
only a few pints of blood.

Good Luck,
Ted


----------
From: mike grady <mgrady@...>
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...; rtr@...
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] electrical help needed: kinda ot
Date: Monday, June 14, 1999 7:32 PM

From: mike grady <mgrady@...>

I didnt make it clear, the problem is that most all the
control, heaters, transformers, would have to be changed some 440 some
110(DC)
hardinge is tring to find a wiring diagram, they said not to hold my
breath. thats why they said a step up transformer from 220
to 440 would be the way to go just hook it up

Ted wrote:

From: "Ted" <rtr@...>

rtr@...
That's a control transformer, It takes line voltage and reduces it to
control voltage. Depending on the year, the secondary winding on the
transformer is typically 110, 12, 24, or 48 vac. Other voltages are
sometimes found. Just look at the devices fed by that transformer.
They
will be marked with the control voltage used on that machine. Of
course
it's easier if you have a copy of the wiring diagrams. Manufacturere
will
usually sell you a copy from their archives, though they sometimes will
give you a copy. If the primary uses four amps you will need a
220/240
or 208 volt (depending on your own mains) transformer that takes 8 amps
on
the primary. If it is the secondary winding that provides 4 amps, then
it
still only needs to provide 4 amps at the secondary voltage.

Don't forget that overload protection and full voltage coils must be
changed to handle the halved voltage and the doubled current. Control
circuits do not require any changing.

Any normal industrial electrical supplier should be able to provide a
transformer.

Ted Robbins.
----------
From: mike grady <mgrady@...>
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] electrical help needed: kinda ot
Date: Monday, June 14, 1999 6:28 PM

From: mike grady <mgrady@...>

there is a lot of electrical/electronic knowledge on this list
so I thought I would ask here
I have a hardinge hct chucker that is 440v 3 ph
hardinge recommended using a transformer to convert it to
220 instead of rewiring the control box
on 440 it uses no more than 4 amps
where can i get a transformer, hopefully cheap
It mite get converted to cnc but I have to get it running first

thanks
mike



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Re: 10 amps to drive steppers

 

I was asked recently by another member about how to size up a suitable size
of smoothing capacitor for the linear power supply that most steppers use,
the linear type with a transformer, bridge rectifier etc.and if there is a
formula.

The answer is heavily dependent on the current load demanded by the stepper
driver(s) that the supply must service.
Recently there was a thread here where Dan Mauch gave some guidance in
quantifying the current load on the supply.
When you have the current load look at the specs for the capacitors and you
will gerally see a spec that indicates the max current at a frequency of
120Hz or 100Hz and then another at 20KHz.
The one that most interests us is the one at 120Hz or 100Hz.
When you rectify the AC voltage from the transformer through a full wave
bridge diode, you will get the negative going half cycle flipped positive so
we get two positive peak - so our 60Hz AC frequency has become a 120Hz
varying DC frequency countries which use 50Hz AC will result in a 100Hz
rectified frequency.
So the spec will indicate the max current suppliable at frequency.

For thsoe interested in a formula to derive the capacitance themselves, it
is :
Vripple = I load / ( f x C)
or C= I load / (f x Vripple)

you need to decide what level of ripple voltage you will accept.
As the voltage waveform reaches a peak then falls off, the capacitor will
start to discharge into the load acting as a reservoir during the dip in
rectifier output. Whilst discharging, the capacitor's voltage will drop
until the rectifier volatge rises again and starts to recharge the capacitor
this causes a not so constant final voltage but one with a ripple. The
ripple voltage is the difference between the highest and lowest ebb of the
smoothed voltage.
if you require a capacitor value C to allow a max ripple of say 2 volts, and
need to supply 8A at a rectified frequency f of 120Hz
the calculation would be:
C=8A / (120Hz x 2V)
C= 33,000 uF
The current in the above formula is assumed to be constant which of course a
stepper chopper load is not and as the voltage drops the driver will hold
the phases on just a tad longer until it gets to the trip current for the
chopper but armed with an averaged value for load current with greatest
nummber of phases driven as in Dans message should be a good start - if the
cost difference is not too great then go one size up e.g 47,000 but at least
you have a calculated value range to work with now.

Mo


Re: electrical help needed: kinda ot

mike grady
 

I didnt make it clear, the problem is that most all the
control, heaters, transformers, would have to be changed some 440 some 110(DC)
hardinge is tring to find a wiring diagram, they said not to hold my breath. thats why they said a step up transformer from 220
to 440 would be the way to go just hook it up

Ted wrote:

From: "Ted" <rtr@...>

rtr@...
That's a control transformer, It takes line voltage and reduces it to
control voltage. Depending on the year, the secondary winding on the
transformer is typically 110, 12, 24, or 48 vac. Other voltages are
sometimes found. Just look at the devices fed by that transformer. They
will be marked with the control voltage used on that machine. Of course
it's easier if you have a copy of the wiring diagrams. Manufacturere will
usually sell you a copy from their archives, though they sometimes will
give you a copy. If the primary uses four amps you will need a 220/240
or 208 volt (depending on your own mains) transformer that takes 8 amps on
the primary. If it is the secondary winding that provides 4 amps, then it
still only needs to provide 4 amps at the secondary voltage.

Don't forget that overload protection and full voltage coils must be
changed to handle the halved voltage and the doubled current. Control
circuits do not require any changing.

Any normal industrial electrical supplier should be able to provide a
transformer.

Ted Robbins.
----------
From: mike grady <mgrady@...>
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] electrical help needed: kinda ot
Date: Monday, June 14, 1999 6:28 PM

From: mike grady <mgrady@...>

there is a lot of electrical/electronic knowledge on this list
so I thought I would ask here
I have a hardinge hct chucker that is 440v 3 ph
hardinge recommended using a transformer to convert it to
220 instead of rewiring the control box
on 440 it uses no more than 4 amps
where can i get a transformer, hopefully cheap
It mite get converted to cnc but I have to get it running first

thanks
mike



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------------------------------------------------------------------------
welcome to CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@..., an unmodulated list for the
discussion of shop built systems in the above catagories.
To Unsubscribe:

bill, List Manager
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Re: electrical help needed: kinda ot

Ted
 

rtr@...
That's a control transformer, It takes line voltage and reduces it to
control voltage. Depending on the year, the secondary winding on the
transformer is typically 110, 12, 24, or 48 vac. Other voltages are
sometimes found. Just look at the devices fed by that transformer. They
will be marked with the control voltage used on that machine. Of course
it's easier if you have a copy of the wiring diagrams. Manufacturere will
usually sell you a copy from their archives, though they sometimes will
give you a copy. If the primary uses four amps you will need a 220/240
or 208 volt (depending on your own mains) transformer that takes 8 amps on
the primary. If it is the secondary winding that provides 4 amps, then it
still only needs to provide 4 amps at the secondary voltage.

Don't forget that overload protection and full voltage coils must be
changed to handle the halved voltage and the doubled current. Control
circuits do not require any changing.

Any normal industrial electrical supplier should be able to provide a
transformer.

Ted Robbins.
----------
From: mike grady <mgrady@...>
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] electrical help needed: kinda ot
Date: Monday, June 14, 1999 6:28 PM

From: mike grady <mgrady@...>

there is a lot of electrical/electronic knowledge on this list
so I thought I would ask here
I have a hardinge hct chucker that is 440v 3 ph
hardinge recommended using a transformer to convert it to
220 instead of rewiring the control box
on 440 it uses no more than 4 amps
where can i get a transformer, hopefully cheap
It mite get converted to cnc but I have to get it running first

thanks
mike



------------------------------------------------------------------------
Having difficulty getting "in synch" with list members?

Try ONElist's Shared Calendar to organize events, meetings and more!
------------------------------------------------------------------------
welcome to CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@..., an unmodulated list for the
discussion of shop built systems in the above catagories.
To Unsubscribe:

bill, List Manager