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Re: Source for inexpensive drivers and stuff

JJ
 

Uh, yea :-)

Thanks,
JJ

Be Kind, Be Careful, Be Yourself

-----Original Message-----
From: turbulatordude [mailto:davemucha@...]
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2002 7:27 AM
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: Source for inexpensive drivers
and stuff


maybe this URL will work better ??




--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "JJ" <jj5412@e...> wrote:
Have a look at www.camtronics.com. I use the same components
(L297/L298)
on boards of my own design and get great results. Rapids go up to
60IPM
(30 is practical on my machine). The best I could get with unipolar
drive was 9IPM.

Regards,
JJ

Be Kind, Be Careful, Be Yourself



-----Original Message-----
From: dgmachinist [mailto:scsm@m...]
Sent: Sunday, October 27, 2002 10:20 PM
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y...
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Source for inexpensive drivers and
stuff




Hello all,

Just joined the group. I've been lurking for a bit now, finally
got
around to it...

I just finished building my CNC Router. (24"x26"x5") It came
out
better than expected. Now that I have it up and running (and
making
money) I am looking at building another, smaller CNC, probably a
Dremel tool type, 12"x12"x3" (for engraving only)

This is my query: On my first machine, I used Gecko's, a nice
power
supply from Microkinetics and some beefy motors. While these all
work
quite well, they tend to drive up the overall cost of the
project.
Would anyone know where I could find some rather inexpensive
motor
drivers? What about a power supply? I'm thinking about using NEMA
23's, which should be more than enough. Whatever I get, it has to
be
simple, inexpensive, and already or mostly assembled. i'm a
machinist, not an electrical engineer. :)


Thanks in advance

Seth



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NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING
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List Mom
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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

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OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com
to reach it if you have trouble.

I consider this to be a
sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there,
for OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
bill
List Mom
List Owner



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to


drifting Off Topic pretty badly................Added a VFD to my CNC mill

 

This is drifting pretty far off topic, please drop it, or being it back the
the list topics,
bill
List Mom


Favourite cnc plasma software? I use Kcam, opinions?

 

Ive tried many options, best seem to me master 5 and Kcam, I really
like the interface on Kcam but still have some problems with order of
cuts etc, what do all the other plasma guys use? anyone else use
Kcam? or any comments on this program?


Re: Source for inexpensive drivers and stuff

turbulatordude
 

maybe this URL will work better ??




--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "JJ" <jj5412@e...> wrote:
Have a look at www.camtronics.com. I use the same components
(L297/L298)
on boards of my own design and get great results. Rapids go up to
60IPM
(30 is practical on my machine). The best I could get with unipolar
drive was 9IPM.

Regards,
JJ

Be Kind, Be Careful, Be Yourself



-----Original Message-----
From: dgmachinist [mailto:scsm@m...]
Sent: Sunday, October 27, 2002 10:20 PM
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y...
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Source for inexpensive drivers and
stuff




Hello all,

Just joined the group. I've been lurking for a bit now, finally
got
around to it...

I just finished building my CNC Router. (24"x26"x5") It came
out
better than expected. Now that I have it up and running (and
making
money) I am looking at building another, smaller CNC, probably a
Dremel tool type, 12"x12"x3" (for engraving only)

This is my query: On my first machine, I used Gecko's, a nice
power
supply from Microkinetics and some beefy motors. While these all
work
quite well, they tend to drive up the overall cost of the
project.
Would anyone know where I could find some rather inexpensive
motor
drivers? What about a power supply? I'm thinking about using NEMA
23's, which should be more than enough. Whatever I get, it has to
be
simple, inexpensive, and already or mostly assembled. i'm a
machinist, not an electrical engineer. :)


Thanks in advance

Seth



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Moderator: jmelson@a... timg@k...
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URL to this group:

OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com
to reach it if you have trouble.

I consider this to
be a
sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are
there,
for OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING
THEM.
DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
bill
List Mom
List Owner



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to


Re: Source for inexpensive drivers and stuff

 

www.ampshop.com is where I bought all my stuff from, board is working
fine in my plasma table, I got the motors from there as well, I
looked everywhere and they seemed the best price for a 2 amp driver.


Re: Source for inexpensive drivers and stuff

JJ
 

Have a look at www.camtronics.com. I use the same components (L297/L298)
on boards of my own design and get great results. Rapids go up to 60IPM
(30 is practical on my machine). The best I could get with unipolar
drive was 9IPM.

Regards,
JJ

Be Kind, Be Careful, Be Yourself

-----Original Message-----
From: dgmachinist [mailto:scsm@...]
Sent: Sunday, October 27, 2002 10:20 PM
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Source for inexpensive drivers and stuff




Hello all,

Just joined the group. I've been lurking for a bit now, finally got
around to it...

I just finished building my CNC Router. (24"x26"x5") It came out
better than expected. Now that I have it up and running (and making
money) I am looking at building another, smaller CNC, probably a
Dremel tool type, 12"x12"x3" (for engraving only)

This is my query: On my first machine, I used Gecko's, a nice power
supply from Microkinetics and some beefy motors. While these all work
quite well, they tend to drive up the overall cost of the project.
Would anyone know where I could find some rather inexpensive motor
drivers? What about a power supply? I'm thinking about using NEMA
23's, which should be more than enough. Whatever I get, it has to be
simple, inexpensive, and already or mostly assembled. i'm a
machinist, not an electrical engineer. :)


Thanks in advance

Seth



Addresses:
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List owner: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-owner@..., wanliker@...
Moderator: jmelson@... timg@...
[Moderator]
URL to this group:

OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com
to reach it if you have trouble.

I consider this to be a
sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there,
for OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
bill
List Mom
List Owner



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to


Re: Source for inexpensive drivers and stuff

 

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "Dave Rigotti" <drigotti@a...> wrote:
Seth,
How about Hobby CNC? www.hobbycnc.com
Dave,

PERFECT!

I was looking at your plan-set. why do you not recommend faster
travel speeds? Rigidity? dremel tool can't keep up?

Thanks a lot,
Seth


Re: Source for inexpensive drivers and stuff

Dave Rigotti
 

Seth,
How about Hobby CNC? www.hobbycnc.com

Regards,
Dave Rigotti
Hobby CNC

----- Original Message -----
From: "dgmachinist" <scsm@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Sunday, October 27, 2002 10:19 PM
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Source for inexpensive drivers and stuff




Hello all,

Just joined the group. I've been lurking for a bit now, finally got
around to it...

I just finished building my CNC Router. (24"x26"x5") It came out
better than expected. Now that I have it up and running (and making
money) I am looking at building another, smaller CNC, probably a
Dremel tool type, 12"x12"x3" (for engraving only)

This is my query: On my first machine, I used Gecko's, a nice power
supply from Microkinetics and some beefy motors. While these all work
quite well, they tend to drive up the overall cost of the project.
Would anyone know where I could find some rather inexpensive motor
drivers? What about a power supply? I'm thinking about using NEMA
23's, which should be more than enough. Whatever I get, it has to be
simple, inexpensive, and already or mostly assembled. i'm a
machinist, not an electrical engineer. :)


Thanks in advance

Seth



Addresses:
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List owner: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-owner@..., wanliker@...
Moderator: jmelson@... timg@... [Moderator]
URL to this group:

OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it if
you have trouble.


I consider this to be a
sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for OT
subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
bill
List Mom
List Owner



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to


Re: Force for foam cutting

galt1x
 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Les Newell" <les@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2002 12:05 AM
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Force for foam cutting


Very little force is needed. We often cut shapes out of 2" foam in one
pass
at 4.8 m/min (approx 190ipm) with a 1/2" cutter spinning at 18000 rpm.
Dust
extraction is essential otherwise the whole room will have an even coating
of foam dust!
If the cutter is sharp you end up with a finish at least as good as hot
wire.

Les


How much force does it take to cut foam with a CNC router? I've
searched the web but only found references for hot wire cutters. I
would like to get a handle on just how beefy you have to make a foam
router, I suspect a lot less than a wood router. It seems that wire
cutters don't take much beef. Any experience or thoughts?

Roger


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URL to this group:

OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it if
you have trouble.


I consider this to be a
sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for OT
subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
bill
List Mom
List Owner



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to



Re: Force for foam cutting

Les Newell
 

Very little force is needed. We often cut shapes out of 2" foam in one pass
at 4.8 m/min (approx 190ipm) with a 1/2" cutter spinning at 18000 rpm. Dust
extraction is essential otherwise the whole room will have an even coating
of foam dust!
If the cutter is sharp you end up with a finish at least as good as hot
wire.

Les

How much force does it take to cut foam with a CNC router? I've
searched the web but only found references for hot wire cutters. I
would like to get a handle on just how beefy you have to make a foam
router, I suspect a lot less than a wood router. It seems that wire
cutters don't take much beef. Any experience or thoughts?

Roger


Re: "Light Bulb" EDM ???

John
 

Rust dissolving fluid is tartanic acid based. It's _exactly_ the same stuff
in the coke your kids and I drink too much of. I don't know if there's a
high enough concentration of it to work in coke though. I bought some from
an auto shop and it's a greeny coloured gel. You just paint it onto the
areas, leave it for ten or so minutes, then agitate it with a scouring pad,
toothbrush or paintbrush. You can then leave it a while longer or wipe it
off and apply a new layer. After a little while the gel looses it's
dissolving ability.

For light scaling of rust it might take one go to get it clean and another
to shiny. For really heavy rust it'll take a few. The more you can scrub off
first the better. Although it doesn't attack the clean metal like it does
the rust, it seems to leave a slightly dull appearance on the surface.

All the best,
John H.


Franco,
Please enlighten us further. What is the name of the
rust-disolving fluid? Do you know if it's available
internationally? This is probably, now an O.T. post, so
please respond to me directly:

RayHex jnr@...

----------
From: Franco Candido <candidomold@...>

Hello Mike I have two full size EDM's Japax, plus
mills. But when it
comes to taking out exhaust manifold studs that are
really rusted in there.
I have found a rust disolving solution that is fantastic.
All you do is heat
it .......
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URL to this group:

OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it if
you have trouble.


I consider this to be a
sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for OT
subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
bill
List Mom
List Owner



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to


Re: Source for inexpensive drivers and stuff

stevenson_engineers
 

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "dgmachinist" <scsm@m...> wrote:
Have a look at
They do a 3 axis ready built bipolar driver setup for $90.00
Max of 35 volt and 2.5 Amp output. More than enough for small 23
steppers. Far cheaper than any of the kits I have seen and as I
mentioned ready built which means it's quicker and less of a headache.
I have bought a few of these for a product I do and I'm very
impressed with them.
I only need 2 axis but at this price it's cheaper to just not connect
one axis up
They have also indicated they are going to do a seperate one axis
card for about $30.00 if you need to go the 4th Axis route.

John S.


Hello all,

Just joined the group. I've been lurking for a bit now, finally got
around to it...

I just finished building my CNC Router. (24"x26"x5") It came out
better than expected. Now that I have it up and running (and making
money) I am looking at building another, smaller CNC, probably a
Dremel tool type, 12"x12"x3" (for engraving only)

This is my query: On my first machine, I used Gecko's, a nice
power
supply from Microkinetics and some beefy motors. While these all
work
quite well, they tend to drive up the overall cost of the project.
Would anyone know where I could find some rather inexpensive motor
drivers? What about a power supply? I'm thinking about using NEMA
23's, which should be more than enough. Whatever I get, it has to
be
simple, inexpensive, and already or mostly assembled. i'm a
machinist, not an electrical engineer. :)


Thanks in advance

Seth


Re: Force for foam cutting

 

At 12:52 AM 10/28/02 -0000, you wrote:
How much force does it take to cut foam with a CNC router?
Not a bit more than it takes to move the table. The foam melts away before
the wire touches it if your heat and feed is right.


I've
searched the web but only found references for hot wire cutters. I
would like to get a handle on just how beefy you have to make a foam
router, I suspect a lot less than a wood router. It seems that wire
cutters don't take much beef. Any experience or thoughts?

Roger



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URL to this group:

OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it if
you have trouble.


I consider this to be a
sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for
OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
bill
List Mom
List Owner



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to



Regards, Hoyt McKagen

To prevent virus propogation, don't put this addy in your book
Belfab CNC -
US Best MC -
Camping/Caving -
Two-Wheel-Tech List -
If you torment a serpent, it will cough up a dead rat


Re: Added a VFD to my CNC mill

 

Country Bubba wrote:

However, I cannot find reference to this information in the NEMA file listed above:{( Also, nobody that I have talked with can tell me WHY the belted rate is lower than the direct drive rate???
Two possible reasons. One, is that V-belts will not stay on pulleys above a certain speed. they
will flip over and flay themselves in minutes. This is somewhat diameter-dependent, as the
smaller pulleys generate more centrifugal force as the belt whips around the smaller radius,
for the same linear belt velocity.

Second is the belt puts a radial load on the bearings, heating them more.

Jon


Re: Force for foam cutting

Doug Fortune
 

vrsculptor wrote:

How much force does it take to cut foam with a CNC router?
Practically ZERO, its like moving the tool through the air.

To prove it to yourself, grab a dremel (I use a heavier
Sears Die grinder), mount a ballnose bit (I use up to a 1.5" dia),
and take a few manual swipes by hand through a hunk of foam.

I'll bet you can't tell whats air and what is foam!

Doug Fortune


























.


Re: Added a VFD to my CNC mill

 

Dan Mauch wrote:

I am going to figure out how to use the analog signal from DeskwinNC to
turn on and off my VFD and set the speed from computer via the G code. I
think that would really be a nice to automatically turn on the spindle
motor and set the speed via the program. So far I can heartily recommend
the Mitsubishi FR200E series inverters. BTW I have been told these
normally sell for around $800 but got mine New off ebay for a fraction
of that. It sure is nice not to have to change pulleys all the time.
Last I would like to know how to calculate the maximum safe speed that I
can run the spindle at. I would think that the 3500 RPM 50 Hz motor
would cause the spindle pulley to explode if run at 400 Hz.
Yes, VFD's are really nice! I'll never go back to a static phase converter.

I suspect these motors can be pretty safely operated at twice the rated speed. There was some serious
discussion about higher speeds on rec.crafts.metalworking, and people with contacts in the woodworking
industry indicated that it was fairly common to run 60 Hz motors at 400 and even 800 Hz, and that
motor manufacturers had told them that 400 hz (2 and 4 pole) motors were built with the exact same
materials in the rotor as the 60 Hz motors. I am pretty skeptical of all that, and would rather see
this first before believing it. I suspect a solid (meaning no spokes) pulley is capable of taking at
least twice rated speed. Bridgeport J heads are available with dual speed motors or the high-speed
option, to go to 4250 RPM. With the cost of good spindle bearings, I really would not want to
exceed that. Now, taking that standard head, and running a 60 Hz motor at 400 Hz, you'd be
running the spindle at 28333 RPM. While the spindle probably would not explode at that speed,
the pulleys would, indeed, be at dangerous speeds for their construction. I can't imagine the belt
would handle this at all, though. V-belts tend to flip over when run at excessive speeds, and then
shred themselves in minutes.

Truly calculating the max safe speed involves computing radial loads from centrifugal force, and
then also analyzing the natural vibrational frequencies of the parts, and making sure you don't
operate at a speed where the rotational rate and the bending natural frequency coincide. That
is the first critical speed, and resonance can develop into fantastic explosive force in just a few
revolutions. It requires a pretty detailed mechanical analysis to figure out where these resonances
will occur. 28333 RPM = 472 revs/sec, which is not an unreasonable natural frequency for some
of these components.

But, all that is meaningless, because bearing life of some of the smaller bearings in the head
would be reduced to minutes. Even with the best oil, the spindle bearings would be toast
(literally) in a few hours, tops. I have heard of people running Bridgeport and similar spindles
up to 7500 RPM or so on occasion, but it seems a bad idea.

If you have a real need for high spindle speed, why not put in an auxilliary direct-drive spindle?
I picked up a Rockwell/Precise spindle that can run up to 45,000 RPM, and it is DESIGNED
for that use. I got it for a song on eBay!

Jon


Re: Best benchtop 3D CNC milling machine

 

Andrew Werby wrote:

[By "high speed", are you referring to the spindle speed, the feedrate, or
the whole process? True High Speed Machining really can only be done with a
very rigid and heavy Vertical Milling Centers- the kind that are enclosed in
a shower-stall type closet, so coolant can be blasted at the part without
making a big mess. They have very powerful spindles too- in the 5hp and up
range, and cost upwards of $50,000. Benchtop machines, much as I love them,
are not really in the same league.
Yes, I read a book on high speed machining. The grand finale was a report by a group at Boeing,
I think, that had modified a Cincinnatti gantry bed mill with a 75 Hp, 75,000 RPM spindle.
The were running a 1/2" end mill at 75,000 RPM, and used up all the spindle HP when they were
removing aluminum at a rate of 600 Cu In/minute! They did not use any coolant, as the whole
idea of high speed machining is that the WORKPIECE becomes the coolant! The spray of chips
from this process eroded and broke through a cinderblock wall during their tests! Definitely out
of the range of the home shop, I decided!

Jon


Re: Source for inexpensive drivers and stuff

Jim Brown
 

Why not stick with Gecko's?
You cant go wrong with them and thier customer support is the best in the industry, not to mention that there products are very reliable and precise.
Myself, I wouldnt skimp on the drivers. After all, thats the heart of any good CNC stepper system or servo system.
Just my two cents worth.
Regards,
Jim
dgmachinist <scsm@...> wrote:

Hello all,

Just joined the group. I've been lurking for a bit now, finally got
around to it...

I just finished building my CNC Router. (24"x26"x5") It came out
better than expected. Now that I have it up and running (and making
money) I am looking at building another, smaller CNC, probably a
Dremel tool type, 12"x12"x3" (for engraving only)

This is my query: On my first machine, I used Gecko's, a nice power
supply from Microkinetics and some beefy motors. While these all work
quite well, they tend to drive up the overall cost of the project.
Would anyone know where I could find some rather inexpensive motor
drivers? What about a power supply? I'm thinking about using NEMA
23's, which should be more than enough. Whatever I get, it has to be
simple, inexpensive, and already or mostly assembled. i'm a
machinist, not an electrical engineer. :)


Thanks in advance

Seth



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OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
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Machine fully running!!! now programming problems :(

mueller914
 

I finally got all 3 axis of my Shoptask servo motor CNC conversion
finished and running properly.

I tried to make a NC file using Vector to create the G codes...it
sorta works. Basicly I want 5 holes .215 diameter and two holes .50
square. My bit is 3/16's and using cutter comp(or trying), the small
holes still come out to about .320 and the large square holes are .6+
and one side of the square holes is not being cut, I get an upside U.

Also with Vector, do I have to manually enter my Z values? When I ran
the program, it was only one plane and I don't remember gettign
propted to enter a depth.

Does cutter comp get entered into the code or the machine?
I see a prompt in TCNC, but I've never seen the format it is asking
for.

turbocnc is my nc driver

mueller914@...


Re: Wiring of gecko drives in a CNC controller Im Building

Alan Matheson
 

Subject carefully chosen so I'm within the groups area!

I have 4 Gecko 201 drives in a controller Im building. Does anyone know if I
can connect all the Disable inputs together and switch them to ground using
one set of contacts or must I switch the Disable line from each drive to
ground using a separate set of contacts.

I'm a little concerned in case the drives interact with each other if I just
join all the Disable lines together and let them float during normal
operation.

Alan Matheson