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Re: "Light Bulb" EDM ???

Corey
 

I've built it, it works but VERY slowly. I would only
use it again after eliminating all possible mechanical
solutions.

The light bulbs are to limit peak current (they are in
series). I posted the plans to one of the Yahoo
groups last year, I don't remember which and I no
longer have them on my drive.

c
--- mueller914 <mmueller@...> wrote:
In the latest issue of one of the home shop Machine
mags, they had a
feature with a home built EDM which for some reason
used light bulbs
(controlling the freq. I guess)

anyone have more detailed plans for the electrical
side of this
project or point me in the right direction?

I have a few broken exhaust studs that I'd like to
remove myself

Thanks,

Mike
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Re: "Light Bulb" EDM ???

 

Light bulbs are low cost high wattage and low resistance resistors. I looked
at it quickly and it seems the light bulb was serving as a current limit
resistor for when the electrode shorts out.

Tim
[Denver, CO]

----- Original Message -----


In the latest issue of one of the home shop Machine mags, they had a
feature with a home built EDM which for some reason used light bulbs
(controlling the freq. I guess)

anyone have more detailed plans for the electrical side of this
project or point me in the right direction?

I have a few broken exhaust studs that I'd like to remove myself

Thanks,

Mike


Re: Capacitors for Geckos when using fuses

 

Jim,

I agree with your take on this. Voltage is not mentioned because the norm
with a capacitor is that the cap is rated as high or higher then the maximum
voltage it will be exposed to.

Tim
[Denver CO]

----- Original Message -----
According the the gecko white papers(verbatum), "If a linear regulated or
a switching power supply is used then a large capacitor should be placed
across the output terminals. A 2000uF-10000uF capacitor should do."
That is why I chose a 4700uF cap. for the power supply output terminals...
It's about right in the middle of Mariss' suggestion of a capacitor for a
switching power supply.
He wasnt specific as to what voltage rating for this cap, he was only
specific as to what uF value (2,000-10,000uF)
Your formula for computing the value of a capacitor, I think, is for when
building your own power supply, in conjunction with a bridge rectifier and
transformer.
I dont think this applies to when you are using a regulated or switching
power supply. The cap mentioned above, is placed on the output terminals to
insure that the ripple current stays within the demand of the drivers
current requirements. That is what I get from the papers. I may be wrong
about this though.

Thanks

Regards,
Jim


Re: Capacitors for Geckos when using fuses

Jim Brown
 

According the the gecko white papers(verbatum), "If a linear regulated or a switching power supply is used then a large capacitor should be placed across the output terminals. A 2000uF-10000uF capacitor should do."
That is why I chose a 4700uF cap. for the power supply output terminals... It's about right in the middle of Mariss' suggestion of a capacitor for a switching power supply.
He wasnt specific as to what voltage rating for this cap, he was only specific as to what uF value (2,000-10,000uF)
Your formula for computing the value of a capacitor, I think, is for when building your own power supply, in conjunction with a bridge rectifier and transformer.
I dont think this applies to when you are using a regulated or switching power supply. The cap mentioned above, is placed on the output terminals to insure that the ripple current stays within the demand of the drivers current requirements. That is what I get from the papers. I may be wrong about this though.

Thanks

Regards,
Jim
turbulatordude <davemucha@...> wrote:Hi Jim,

you ask two questions here.

#1 470uF AT THE TERMIANL connector of the Gecko. required if you place
ANYTHING between the main cap and the gecko OR if the lines are longer
than the listed 18 inches.

there are lots of posts that address this. the main thing is that the
switching of the gecko will encounter voltage spikes from the stepper.
the on-board cap on the gecko can handle some of this while the main
cap handles the rest.

and yes, as long as the voltage rating of the cap is well over the
power supply the cap is fine. your 24 volts power supply will operate
fine with a 35V cap.

#2 main capacitor. check the gecko white paper on the cap sizing.
again, as long as the voltage well above the power supply it is fine,
but the cap size needs to be suffiecnt for the amp load of the system.

You didn't list the total amps of all your steppers, but you need to
total all motors for the main cap sizing.

cap uF rating is = (80,000 x total motors amps) / ps voltage

example is if you have 3 steppers at 3 amps. you have 9 amps total

80,000 x 9 = 720,000
720,000 / 24 = 30,000uF
so you would need a total of 30,000uF with a rating of 35 volts.

www.jameco.com has them for low cost, about $5.00 each for 10,000uF/
35volt

the 470uF/35volt are less than $1.00 each.

Dave



--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "jagco1998" wrote:
I have a few more dumb questions....
I dont want to burn anything up, in using components that are
incapable of handling voltage/currents correctly.
The gecko white papers say that when using a 5A fast-blow fuse to
protect the drivers, that a 470uF 100V cap needs to be placed on
across power leads.

My 1st question is this..Can a 470uF 35V cap be used, instead of
100V as the white papers suggest? I can find them at every elec.
supplier in my small town of residence.

I am only using a 24Vdc/10A switching power supply to power 3 gecko
G201's, and have already placed a 4700uF 35V cap across the PS
outputs(I couldnt find anything larger than 35V. I live in the
sticks!)

Also, is the 4700uF 35V cap going to be sufficient for my PS?
Without the cap, a dig. voltagemeter across the output leads tell me
that the power only fluctuates from 24V to 24.2V no load.

I realize that this probably will become a substantially larger
fluctutation once a load is applied.

Will a spike or short in the power going to the motors damage them
if not protected with a fuse? Would it be wise to also fuse the
lines going to the motors also, or is this necessary?

Any suggestions or comments will be appreciated.
Thanks.

Regards,
Jim


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"Light Bulb" EDM ???

mueller914
 

In the latest issue of one of the home shop Machine mags, they had a
feature with a home built EDM which for some reason used light bulbs
(controlling the freq. I guess)

anyone have more detailed plans for the electrical side of this
project or point me in the right direction?

I have a few broken exhaust studs that I'd like to remove myself

Thanks,

Mike


Update...dropped servo motor fixed

mueller914
 

a while back I dropped one of my servo motors which caused 3 of the 4
magnets to become unglued from the case of the motor.

This morning I glued them back on with Loctite 9414 adhesive
(had a sample of this stuff laying around for some reason)

So far so good, I just ran the motor with 24v for a few minutes
(both directions)

I guess the real test will be tonight when I hook it up to my mill
and put some current into it.

Mike


Off topic Dumb question on the drilling of holes

 

This list is for discussion of CAD, CAM(CNC), EDM and DRO ONLY. The list is
aimed at the construction and use of this equipment in a Home Shop Machinist
environment. It is not moderated normally, but can be, especially for
content. I would hope that the discussion will consist of Links, sources,
progress reports, challenges, innovative solutions, and things of this
nature, on the above four subjects. It not aimed at the commercial
professional systems, and their users in a commercial setting. NOTICE!!!
LIST RULES, SUBJECT TO CHANGE.
Arguments, OT postings, Flaming and Piracy not allowed. Banning will
result. NOTE: This is not a general machining List. It is restricted to the
four subjects of the list only. CAD, CAM(CNC), EDM and DRO. The list is
strictly for the "Do It Yourself Bunch"

Anything else is SPAM.
bill
List Mom


Re: Capacitors for Geckos when using fuses

turbulatordude
 

Hi Jim,

you ask two questions here.

#1 470uF AT THE TERMIANL connector of the Gecko. required if you place
ANYTHING between the main cap and the gecko OR if the lines are longer
than the listed 18 inches.

there are lots of posts that address this. the main thing is that the
switching of the gecko will encounter voltage spikes from the stepper.
the on-board cap on the gecko can handle some of this while the main
cap handles the rest.

and yes, as long as the voltage rating of the cap is well over the
power supply the cap is fine. your 24 volts power supply will operate
fine with a 35V cap.

#2 main capacitor. check the gecko white paper on the cap sizing.
again, as long as the voltage well above the power supply it is fine,
but the cap size needs to be suffiecnt for the amp load of the system.

You didn't list the total amps of all your steppers, but you need to
total all motors for the main cap sizing.

cap uF rating is = (80,000 x total motors amps) / ps voltage

example is if you have 3 steppers at 3 amps. you have 9 amps total

80,000 x 9 = 720,000
720,000 / 24 = 30,000uF
so you would need a total of 30,000uF with a rating of 35 volts.

www.jameco.com has them for low cost, about $5.00 each for 10,000uF/
35volt

the 470uF/35volt are less than $1.00 each.

Dave

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "jagco1998" <jagco1998@y...> wrote:
I have a few more dumb questions....
I dont want to burn anything up, in using components that are
incapable of handling voltage/currents correctly.
The gecko white papers say that when using a 5A fast-blow fuse to
protect the drivers, that a 470uF 100V cap needs to be placed on
across power leads.

My 1st question is this..Can a 470uF 35V cap be used, instead of
100V as the white papers suggest? I can find them at every elec.
supplier in my small town of residence.

I am only using a 24Vdc/10A switching power supply to power 3 gecko
G201's, and have already placed a 4700uF 35V cap across the PS
outputs(I couldnt find anything larger than 35V. I live in the
sticks!)

Also, is the 4700uF 35V cap going to be sufficient for my PS?
Without the cap, a dig. voltagemeter across the output leads tell me
that the power only fluctuates from 24V to 24.2V no load.

I realize that this probably will become a substantially larger
fluctutation once a load is applied.

Will a spike or short in the power going to the motors damage them
if not protected with a fuse? Would it be wise to also fuse the
lines going to the motors also, or is this necessary?

Any suggestions or comments will be appreciated.
Thanks.

Regards,
Jim


Re: Center tapped transformer

Dave Dillabough
 

this will work but will not increase the current capacity of the secondary as the max current must pass through each winding. It does save you 2 diodes though.

At 01:17 AM 10/23/02 -0600, you wrote:
Matt,

Been a while since I have noticed you posting. Hope all is well?

So if I connect as drawn what is the ratio of the ac voltage to the
resulting dc voltage? I would have to assume that it is different than
what I get with a bridge.

Tim
[Denver, CO]


-----Original Message-----

I'm going to assume you want to make a DC supply:

(horrible ascii scematic follows - view in fixed width editor
like emacs)

----|>|-----------+
) |
) |
) |
---o MINUS_DC +---o PLUS_DC
) |
) |
) |
----|>|-----------+

Basically, the center tap is the negative pole of the DC
supply and the two
ends of the secondary winding are connected to the anodes of
two rectifier
diodes. The cathodes of the rectifires are tied together and
that is the
positive pole. You could flip both diodes around to reverse
the polarity if
you want to...

you'll need a filter cap as well...

Matt

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Re: Center tapped transformer

Dave Dillabough
 

Look at the center tap wire. If it is a loop or 2 wire ends then you can split them apart to get 2 30 volt windings which can be paralleled to double the secondary current. To make sure that you get the phasing of the 2 windings right connect a light bulb in series with the primary to limit the current. Parallel the secondary windings and apply power with no load. If the bulb lights the seconday windings are out of phase, reverse them and try again. You should get the proper voltage on the secondary with the bulb unlit.

At 12:55 AM 10/23/02 -0600, you wrote:
I have a transformer that is center tapped on the secondary. Voltage
from the center tap to either end is 30 v. from end to end it is 60
volts. I know that if I want 60 volts I just connect the ends to the
bridge and tape off the center tap. How do I connect it if I want 30
volts at the maximum amperage possible? I realize I can connect from one
end to the center and get the 30 volts, but it seems like I am missing
out on amperage by not somehow using the other half of the coil.

Tim
[Denver, CO]


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Re: Dumb question on the drilling of holes

Dave Dillabough
 

If you end mill is not ground for center cutting you will need a pilot hole.

At 11:15 PM 10/22/02 -0700, you wrote:
Jon,
Thanks for your input. My spindle is tight, so are the bearings, and
the 1/4" end mill is held in a pretty new collet. When I tried plunging the
end mill through an 1/8" wall aluminum extrusion, I could feel resistance on
the quill. Then I realized that, as the cut started, the chips built up
between the end flutes, and caused some galling and hole distortion, since
the chips, unlike a fluted drill which gets rid of it's own chips, had no
place to go. I'll try to do some testing, and document my findings, to
arrive at the best solution.

Marv Frankel
Los Angeles

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Elson" <elson@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 10:25 PM
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Dumb question on the drilling of holes




Marv Frankel wrote:

Tim,
I'm pretty familiar with reaming holes for proper fit, but the
holes
I'm talking about, are sometimes so misshapen, they almost look
triangular.
They're 1/4" holes, and I've even tried cutting them through with an end
mill, and that wasn't great either.

A properly sharpened drill bit will not do this except on very thin
sheet. A dull drill bit can
sure do things like this. End mills generally make VERY round and
smooth holes, even when
plunged. If you are trying to plunge an HSS end mill into tool steel,
however, that could cause
deflection. Are you sure your spindle is solid? A bad spindle bearing
or loose quill could
do this. I hope you aren't holding a 1/4" end mill in a Jacob's chuck.
That really won't work,
and isn't safe, either!

Jon


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Re: Dumb question on the drilling of holes

Dave Dillabough
 

You can get 3 flute drill bits that will do almost as good a job as drill/ream in one pass. There was a thread about this on alt.machines.cnc recently.

At 03:24 PM 10/22/02 -0700, you wrote:
Tim,
I'm pretty familiar with reaming holes for proper fit, but the holes
I'm talking about, are sometimes so misshapen, they almost look triangular.
They're 1/4" holes, and I've even tried cutting them through with an end
mill, and that wasn't great either.

Marv Frankel
Los Angeles


----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Goldstein" <timg@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 2:36 PM
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Dumb question on the drilling of holes


Drill bits are well know for making off size and irregular holes. That is
why you should use a reamer if the fit is important.

Of course this is easier with CNC when you can get back to the same spot
so
you don't have to keep switching tools.

Tim
[Denver CO]
----- Original Message -----


Guys,
I'm following this subject with great interest. One of the
reasons
I
subscribe to this group, is to learn enough to convert my mill to CNC. I
have been fabricating some parts on a mill, using the DRO, and have run
into
problems drilling holes. Using certain drill bits, many of the holes
have
come out oversize, and some completely out-of-round. Changing bits has
helped, especially if I use a shorter length bit, but I'm going to
investigate using the 135 degree, or other similar drills. I'm looking
forward to a CNC conversion, when I intend to center drill the holes
before
using the correct drill bit.

Marv Frankel
Los Angeles


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Re: vexta stepper/driver

Alan Marconett KM6VV
 

Hi Zafar,

You might want to check, The 5-phase Vexta I have is CW/CCW, and 100V.
Yes, I ran it off a VARIAC, and made a special version of my controller
program to do CW/CCW. Some glue logic could probably also convert
step/dir to CW/CCW. The NEMA #34 was a little big for my uses.

Alan KM6VV

Zafar Salam wrote:


Hi all,
Going through the old posts here, I noticed that a few members are using the vexta 5-phase steppers/drivers. I have my eyes on a set of Super Vexta drivers and vexta PH599H-A steppers that are going cheep. Could you guide me on their performance and which software are you using to drive them. These are 0.72 degrees and 2.4A Nema 32 motors. I couldn't find the specs of the motors on the web. Oriental motors web site doesn't seem to have these numbers. Is there any other place should I look in.

Regards,
Zafar


Re: A few questions: 3:1 ratio okay for accuracy? is my setup correct?

mueller914
 

I happen to have one of the encoders right here....
part # E2-500-197-G, so it's a 500 CPR with a 5mm shaft

I'll try your recommened setting tonight, thanks

Mike

is 500--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "Tim Goldstein" <timg@k...> wrote:
I think that you do not have the proper numbers entered even if it
may be
giving the correct steps per inch. I am assuming that you do not
have 25
line encoders which is what you would need to get 25 steps/rev.
What we
really need to know is the line count of the encoders and what
multiplier
ratio you have the G340 set for. Then with the other information we
can
figure it all out.
Steps per revolution will equal 4 x the lines on the encoder. So if
you have
a 250 line encoder (far more likely than 25) you will get 1000
encoder
counts which = steps with this drive after you divide by the pulse
multiplier setting. So if the pulse multiplier is set to 1 X (no
multiplication) than you have 1000 steps per rev. If it is set to
10 than
you would have 100 steps per rev (way to low, but it is an example).
You should have 0 in microstepping as the drive does not microstep.

The way you have it configured I would guess that you really have a
500 line
encoder and that the drive is set to 10 x pulse multiplication.
That means
that the motor really has 2000 steps per rev and the drive is then
reducing
it to 200 which equals the 100 step per rev then doubled by 2 x
microstep.
Works, but not my idea of optimum. I think I would set the drives
to 5 x
pulse multiplication and then use the settings of 400 steps per
rev, no
microstep and keep the reduction and TPI you have. You may also
want to play
with the 2 x pulse multiplier setting and then use 1000 steps per
rev.

Tim
[Denver, CO]


Re: CAM Software Options

Fred Smith
 

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Chris L <datac@l...> wrote:

I could get to liking VectorCams toolpath creation more with MINOR
improvements. 1. IF it would automatically place offset toolpaths for
countouring operations instead of me having to draw them first,
and more importantly,
In a recent build, Vector has added a new function to the Pocket X-Z
profile. If no curve profile is specified, it is assumed to be
linear. The angle can be 0 and has the effect of automatically
offsetting and making straight or angular passes to depth. Works
great for auto offsetting, tool comped tapered cuts, or for creating
V-tip offset cuts too. (This is being released with the new 9.4 CD)

2. IF it had a dialog that allowed you to install a specific
feedrate and plunge rate for the particular toolpath/cam action you
are attempting to do. I can make it Ask me what
feedrate for every line, (takes forever) and then I have to watch
carefully because it also throws in plunge rate when applicable. OR,
the better option, it sticks in a default text ( i use FR for
feerate, PR for plunge rate, then do I find replace in the editor.
Use an NC script. It allows you to place a BMP image and up to 15
dialog items on an interactive dialog. Allows math functions and
formatting into the CNC program. Set it up however you want. Works
great for just about any kind of canned cycles too.

Customize your setup so it only puts plunge rates and feed along
rates where you want them. There should be no need to edit your
programs with Vector. Put your needs on our user forum, in a posting
with exactly how you would like the code to be and you will probably
be surprised how easy it is to set up.

Additionally it couldn't hurt to allow better toolbars so
simple "drawing tools" are easier to get at and not multimenus deep.
It
doesn't seem like rocket science.... and I can't imagine why the
developers feel these are not crucial additions. It is an incredibly
capable program, no doubt about that, and I learn more everytime I
use it.
The new Vector programmable, Macro Toolbars should take care of any
needs for this. Since we are doing a public beta test program on
this, it is even available for free for the time being. You can
easily automate your feedrate edits that you mentioned above.

If they could finish those items, they could get the money I could
have spent on TC ! Maybe they will come back to that when they are
done fiddling with Nurbs, Something as best I can tell, I do not
really need.
Nurbs are the basis for most 3D organic surface modeling systems.
IGES files rely heavily on the use of nurbs curves and surfaces.
Rhino is entirely Nurbs based. Vector 3D surfaces now map directly
to the same forms. We didn't go the Open Nurbs route (yet) because
IGES covers more territory for less development.

Solid models are converted to trimmed Nurb surfaces in IGES files.
By adding Nurbs capability to VectorCam, we have made the entire
modern design world available to our customers, at a very low cost.
In the latest versions of Vector, the 3D surfacing option enables the
creation of Tru-type text outlines as Nurb curves. Imagine a letter
with one or 2 entities, instead of hundreds of tiny little splines.
The independent axis scaling is also applied to nurb curves. (Who
knows we might even see node editing some day.)


Best Regards, Fred Smith- IMService

Listserve Special discounts and offers are at:


Re: A few questions: 3:1 ratio okay for accuracy? is my setup correct?

 

I think that you do not have the proper numbers entered even if it may be
giving the correct steps per inch. I am assuming that you do not have 25
line encoders which is what you would need to get 25 steps/rev. What we
really need to know is the line count of the encoders and what multiplier
ratio you have the G340 set for. Then with the other information we can
figure it all out.
Steps per revolution will equal 4 x the lines on the encoder. So if you have
a 250 line encoder (far more likely than 25) you will get 1000 encoder
counts which = steps with this drive after you divide by the pulse
multiplier setting. So if the pulse multiplier is set to 1 X (no
multiplication) than you have 1000 steps per rev. If it is set to 10 than
you would have 100 steps per rev (way to low, but it is an example).
You should have 0 in microstepping as the drive does not microstep.

The way you have it configured I would guess that you really have a 500 line
encoder and that the drive is set to 10 x pulse multiplication. That means
that the motor really has 2000 steps per rev and the drive is then reducing
it to 200 which equals the 100 step per rev then doubled by 2 x microstep.
Works, but not my idea of optimum. I think I would set the drives to 5 x
pulse multiplication and then use the settings of 400 steps per rev, no
microstep and keep the reduction and TPI you have. You may also want to play
with the 2 x pulse multiplier setting and then use 1000 steps per rev.

Tim
[Denver, CO]

----- Original Message -----

A few questions: 3:1 ratio okay for accuracy? is my setup correct?

1)I am running a 3:1 ratio for my servos, will this have an effect on
accuracy since my step increment will be .00033333333 inches and is
not a nice even number such as .0001 or even .0005.

2)I have no idea of the "Steps per Rev" of my motor. I just played
with different numbers until "100" gave me the motion I wanted.

I also played with the "Microstepping" input as well, so I am not
sure which number is correct or if I was just lucky.

This is my setup:
Steps per rev: 100
TPI of screw: 5
Microstepping: 2
Reduction: 3

Motors are Litton 420oz brush DC servos (bought from Camtronics many
moons ago)

I did spin the motor manually and counted 22 "detents"...does this
mean anything? I'd like to be as accuate as possible with my setup
and I am not sure if 100 SPR is okay or not, just 'cause it works,
does not mean it's correct....

I'm running Gecko 340's as well.

Thanks


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Balls in tube DRO Resolver to Digital

vrsculptor
 

A while back there was discussions about using ball bearings in a
tube for a DRO scale. The reader used several excited loops to read
its position? I'm not an analog type but would the resolver to
digital converter metioned previously:



allow you to build a ball encoder? Is it easy or a stretch? Any
volunteers to design one? Cost seems reasonable, I'd be happy to
spend $89 for the possibility of an arbitrary length DRO.

AD2S90-EB PRODUCTION Evaluation Boards - COMMERCIAL $89.06
AD2S90AP PRODUCTION PLASTIC LEAD CHIP CARRIER 20 COMMERCIAL $29.16


Roger


Balls in tube DRO Resolver to Digital

vrsculptor
 

A while back there was discussions about using ball bearings in a
tube for a DRO scale. The reader used several excited loops to read
its position? I'm not an analog type but would the resolver to
digital converter metioned previously:



allow you to build a ball encoder? Is it easy or a stretch? Any
volunteers to design one? Cost seems reasonable, I'd be happy to
spend $89 for the possibility of an arbitrary length DRO.

AD2S90-EB PRODUCTION Evaluation Boards - COMMERCIAL $89.06
AD2S90AP PRODUCTION PLASTIC LEAD CHIP CARRIER 20 COMMERCIAL $29.16


Roger


Capacitors for Geckos when using fuses

jagco1998
 

I have a few more dumb questions....
I dont want to burn anything up, in using components that are
incapable of handling voltage/currents correctly.
The gecko white papers say that when using a 5A fast-blow fuse to
protect the drivers, that a 470uF 100V cap needs to be placed on
across power leads.

My 1st question is this..Can a 470uF 35V cap be used, instead of
100V as the white papers suggest? I can find them at every elec.
supplier in my small town of residence.

I am only using a 24Vdc/10A switching power supply to power 3 gecko
G201's, and have already placed a 4700uF 35V cap across the PS
outputs(I couldnt find anything larger than 35V. I live in the
sticks!)

Also, is the 4700uF 35V cap going to be sufficient for my PS?
Without the cap, a dig. voltagemeter across the output leads tell me
that the power only fluctuates from 24V to 24.2V no load.

I realize that this probably will become a substantially larger
fluctutation once a load is applied.

Will a spike or short in the power going to the motors damage them
if not protected with a fuse? Would it be wise to also fuse the
lines going to the motors also, or is this necessary?

Any suggestions or comments will be appreciated.
Thanks.

Regards,
Jim


A few questions: 3:1 ratio okay for accuracy? is my setup correct?

mueller914
 

A few questions: 3:1 ratio okay for accuracy? is my setup correct?

1)I am running a 3:1 ratio for my servos, will this have an effect on
accuracy since my step increment will be .00033333333 inches and is
not a nice even number such as .0001 or even .0005.

2)I have no idea of the "Steps per Rev" of my motor. I just played
with different numbers until "100" gave me the motion I wanted.

I also played with the "Microstepping" input as well, so I am not
sure which number is correct or if I was just lucky.

This is my setup:
Steps per rev: 100
TPI of screw: 5
Microstepping: 2
Reduction: 3

Motors are Litton 420oz brush DC servos (bought from Camtronics many
moons ago)

I did spin the motor manually and counted 22 "detents"...does this
mean anything? I'd like to be as accuate as possible with my setup
and I am not sure if 100 SPR is okay or not, just 'cause it works,
does not mean it's correct....

I'm running Gecko 340's as well.

Thanks