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Hello
I just started trying to use visual mill and have 4 question. Any help would be appreciated.

1. In the help index when you click on create it says there is no page to be found. Is this a bug?
2. Can you resize your cad project bigger or smaller for post processing in visual mill.
3. How can I switch over to millimeters from inchs or is that again specfic to the cad model.
4. how does the different operations i.e roughing, finishing work in the post processor. I have a taig mill which does not have a tool changer, does each operation stop and wait for an operator command or is it continuious. and you have to break up the cam operations.

Thanks
Steve Ross

Hello
I just started trying to use visual mill and have 4 question. Any help would be appreciated.

1. In the help index when you click on create it says there is no page to be found. Is this a bug?
2. Can you resize your cad project bigger or smaller for post processing in visual mill.
3. How can I switch over to millimeters from inchs or is that again specfic to the cad model.
4. how does the different operations i.e roughing, finishing work in the post processor. I have a taig mill which does not have a tool changer, does each operation stop and wait for an operator command or is it continuious. and you have to break up the cam operations.

Thanks
Steve Ross

I looked thrue past postes for rutex but only found chit chat about
it ,, read nothing about how well it works or how the support was.
if anyone could offer some insite to it please do. Thanks Duffy

Paul,
To answer the question of using a mechanical means to
increase encoder resolution, I have seen it used both
with encoders and the older syncro's to increase
resolution. Toothed timing belts aren't as compact as
gears, but they are easier to setup and not have a lot
of backlash. Yes I know they make antibacklash gears,
however they are more expensive and harder to set up.
Bill Higdon

You didn't mention how much backlash was in your XY axis.

A quick estimate is about .005 in each axis. Maybe a little less in
the y-axis.

Any good supplier of metric-bore pullies (with a key notch), or should
I just bore out some english ones? Offhand I'd say I have 16mm
diameter coming off the lead screw with a 5mm wide key. I don't have
my actual pad with the measurements handy.

Anyhow, off to waste some time at the Jets/Vikings game. 4 hours of
my life I won't get back. Heh.

Jake

.0055 slop on a new Chinese made knee mill is pretty good. My enco knee
mill came stock with .020 backlash on the Z axis, .010 on the X and .008
on the Y. Since your backlash is that much I would recommend trying one
of those gas springs to take the backlash out. Alternatively you can do
what I did which was to put a servo motor with a 4/1 ratio on the knee.
I have used this set up for about 4 years with no wear and it is easier
than trying to modify power head.
You didn't mention how much backlash was in your XY axis.
Dan

well after 3 months, i finally have my machine. Overall, i'm pretty
happy with the Grizzly 3102. The main area that I'm unhappy with is
the Z-axis downfeed. The fine adjust seems to take a little more
force to turn than the cracks on the XY table. i'm hoping this will
losen up with some lubrication. the z-axis also has a bit of lash:

Basically, I've got about .0055" of play according to my indicator.
This number was obtained by using the fine feed crank to move the
spindle down mabye 1/2 of the way down. Then, I set the indicator on
a flat portion of the underside where the collet goes. Next, I press
firmly upwards from the same place... And the indicator shows a
little over .005 of movement.

Anyone have any sugestions on how to limit the play between the spur
gear and the rack? It seems to me like .0055 is an issue that needs
to be fixed before I start my CNC conversion.

Anyhow, thanks in advance.
Jake

This has probably been dealt with before but I can't find it in the
archive.
It has been said on this group that encoders should, ideally, have
a resolution 10 times greater than that which you wish to display.
Therefore to display measurements down to 0.0005" (? thou.) the
resolution of the decoder would have to detect movement of 0.00005".
Art Eckstein shows on his webpage how
he used mechanical advantage to double the resolution of his system
when using rotary encoders.
Has anyone succesfully adopted Art's system but, instead of driving
the encoder directly, driven it by a precision toothed belt to give
a mechanical advantage of say 10:1?
Paul

This route is much simpler, and works for me everytime...
Highlight all the code in the editor(being careful not to go outside
of the editor box) and instead of printing to file, just right click
on the highlighted text and copy it. the 1000 line copy message
doesnt appear when i do it this way. Then all I do is paste it into
a new text file renamed to the extention that I need.
And I ve copied up to 14000 line code this way before with no
problems.

Regards

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Alan Marconett KM6VV <KM6VV@a...> wrote:

List,

This also worked for BobCAD, the last time I tried it.

Alan KM6VV

rsgoldner wrote:

Actually, you can only copy/paste 1000 characters. However, I did
find a workaround to save all of the gcode. Install the Windows
generic printer driver and set it up to print to a file. Surfcam
does allow you to print all of the gcode, just select the generic
printer when printing. You will be prompted for a file name. The
file will contain form feed characters, but that's not a big

deal to

get rid of if your controller doesn't like it.

can anyone suggest good fine finish circuit with no wear charachtristics.

Thanks

lalit



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Thanks guys, you cleared up a bunch and pointed me in good directions as
usual. This list is a smogasboard of info.

Scot

From: "Tim Goldstein" <timg@...>

Try and then pick Super Alloy. It is the

PRECISION

HIGH LUBRICITY POLYMER - BLACK 1500LFH that you will most likely want.

There were a number of people talking about playing with making some of

this

at home. It is basically epoxy with a lot of graphite in it. I believe that
Moglice which is a similar product uses molybdenum disulfide as the
lubricating agent. Don't remember hearing about any results from the home
experimenters.

I used the Phillycast resin in my Grizzley mod posted here a couple years
ago, and on my web pages at I bought it over Moglice
because their smallest container was a bit larger than the Moglice, for
about the same price- about $40 as I recall.

You are correct that the Philly product is based on graphite while Moglice
is based on molybdenum disulfide. I have talked to sales engineers from both
companies about their products- obviously they each think theirs is best. I
think it may be one of what I call a 'blonde vs redhead' question, take your
pick, they are about the same thing.

I also used West brand epoxy (sold for boatbuilding) with powdered graphite,
which they sell for bottom coating of boats, and cast some parts. Although I
did not do any leadscrews and didnt do any serious testing, it sure looks
and feels like the Philly product. I did use it for the seams in the teak
deck of my steamboat where it worked very well.

ron ginger

Hi, Scot:

No, it doesn't work that way. When you put two capacitors in parallel, the
same voltage is dropped across both, so the voltage rating of the
combination doesn't change. It's actually the lowest rated voltage of either
of the capacitors.

If you put the two in series, part of the total voltate is dropped across
each capacitor, resulting in a total allowable working voltage of something
larger than the working voltage of either capacitor. However, it's not
necessarily the sum of the working voltages of the capacitors.

While the theoretical working voltage is twice the working voltage of each
capacitor only when the capacitors have equal value, that holds only when
each capacitor has exactly the same capacitance and working voltage. With
electrolytic capacitors, that's not an easy feat, given the wide tolerances
in capacitance. With a series connection, the voltage across the first
capacitor is Vtotal * (C1 / (C1 + C2)).


-- Jerry

|
|But doesn't the voltage rating drop to half when you run caps in
|series and
|double when you run them in paralell?
|
|Scot

Nope,
When you tye two caps in series you get a voltage rating of VR=V1+V2 and
a capacity rating of CR=(C1*C2)/(C1+C2) if you balance out the voltage by
paralleling resistors across each cap such that the resistance values
R1/(R1+R2) = V1/(V1+V2) and R2/(R1+R2)=V2/(V1+V2). In parallel the Capacity
rating IS additive CR=C1+C2 and the voltage rating is the Minimum Voltage
rating of either Cap.

Hi, well i am no expert but the machine i saw being built they poured the
urethane/concrete like material into the machine once it was at the
customers site. Then final scraping and set-up was done. The material was a
base of Urethane, stone powder and some type of emulsion binder to keep the
viscosity even till it was set-up. The small piece i had didnt bounce when
tossed to the floor but more of a flap-n-thud sound. You really couldnt
damage it with a screwdriver..go to a place where they use those materials
and ask to see how it is used. Maybe they will tell you who's material they
use. cul brian f.

Here's a nice machine made with polymer concrete.



Bill

Hey there list,

I've been lurking on and off on this list for a year or so and I was
wondering if anyone out there has done any research into Polymer concrete
castings for machine bases. I have a CMS GT Sprint cnc lathe and the >base

is>made of the stuff. It's actually really neat stuff. It has all of >the
good quaities of real stone and vibration & dampening charactheristics >that
are up to 30 times stronger than conventional materials. I.E. Steel &

Granite. My main objective is to find out the most common ingredients and
proportions for mixes that would be good for small scale industrial

machine >bases. Any info would really help. I want to play around with the
stuff.

Thanks in advance,
Scot

Someone was asking a while back about a compact R8 spindle.

is a current auction on eBay for such a spindle with three bearings.
There is no housing, nor do I see any provision for securing the
bearings. This has the look of someone that is making these for sale, it
sure doesn't look to me like it came out of any existing machine. Might
be worth looking and asking questions for anyone needing a short R8
spindle...

Jon

I have enjoyed this thread on proper wiring. As a way of helping to make
sure I understand all the issues, I have compiled this document from all
of the recent posts on this subject. This work therefore, is the result
of many posts on this list. Enjoy and be safe! - Eric

WIRING CONNECTIONS -- WHAT DO THE WIRES MEAN AND DO?

N = NEUTRAL CONNECTION (white wire, sometimes called "Common")
The neutral should be connected to your neutral connection in your breaker
box, which is a return line to the transformer. Without it you may get
some strange voltages.

The reason that the white wire is called a neutral instead of a ground is
because that is what it is. It may not necessarily be at ground potential.
It is the ground reference for the transformer but it may not be a ground.
If you have a clamp on amp meter put it on the neutral wire coming from
your house to the transformer on the pole. You will probably get a reading
on the neutral wire. It carries the difference between the 2 hot legs to
your house. If you have 15 amps on one hot leg and 10 amps on the other
hot leg then you will have 5 amps on the neutral. If you are between that
neutral and a better ground than the transformer has that 5 amps will pass
through you to ground. I personally do not want 5 amps of current passing
through me, it is certainly more than enough to cause a 60 cycle heart
failure.

The neutral and the ground wires are not interchangeable.

When wiring a receptacle, The NEUTRAL wire (WHITE) is to be connected to
the SILVER colored screw which connects to the Wider/Higher of the two
blades in the socket.

DO NOT GROUND THE WHITE WIRE AT THE APPLIANCE!! If you do this and reverse
a two prong cord at the outlet or if your outlet is wired incorrectly,
you will end up with a live case !


L = LINE VOLTAGE (black wire, sometimes called "Hot")

When wiring a receptacle, The LINE (HOT) wire (BLACK) is to be connected
to the BRASS colored screw which connects to the Narrower/Shorter of the
two blades in the socket. NOTE: LINE Can legally be any color but white.
{Exception} being if it is a switched receptacle and it is a white feeding
from the switch, but it should be marked with black tape.

G = GROUND (green wire in USA and Green w/ yellow stripe in Europe)
The green case ground should go to a good hard ground, such as a driven
ground rod.

The Ground wire does not "normally" conduct any current. It is present
for "safety". If there is a "short circuit" in the machinery from "L"
(aka "hot") to the chassis, etc., this Green wire, then, conducts this
current to GROUND, [hopefully-] blowing the breaker or fuze. Oh, it might
also serve to "drain" EMI nasties, but not really much "measurable"
current would be involved in that.

You can hook the Ground (Green) wire to a water pipe also, anything that
is well grounded. It is called a case ground for a good reason, it grounds
the case of the equipment. If there is a short to the case of the
equipment it takes it to ground instead of to you the first time that you
touch (it. People used to get killed that way, that is why there is a 3
wire system now instead of the old 2 wire system.)

You pays your money and you takes your chances as they say, to you it may
not be worth the effort of running a ground wire, to me it would be a no
brainer. I've been doing Power Co work for over 40 years, I expect to
retire next year with no burn marks on me after working with everything
from 110 volts to 34500 volts on a daily basis.

Personally, I'd rely more on getting the green wire back to the fuse box
and connecting it to the neutral/ground buss bar. From
there, you should have a connection to either a water pipe (be sure to put
a bypass wire around the meter) or to a good earth ground.

When wiring a receptacle, The GROUND wire (GREEN) is to be connected to
the screw with the GREEN tab, which connects to the round connector below
the Neutral and Line blades of the socket.

The neutral and the ground wires are not interchangeable.

NEVER fail to USE the GROUND WIRE properly!

GROUND RODS
There is a safety concern with machinery having large expanses of metal to
lay your hand on. A ground rod separate from the rest of the electrical
system is 'illegal', as the rod may or may not make good contact with
conductive earth.

GROUND FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTER (GFI)
GFI Equipped wiring has a "Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor", usually a
strange-looking duplex-outlet with a couple of
funny push-buttons between 'em, in the "main bath", where one plugs in
electric shavers and/or hair-dryers. THAT "GFI" has an ELECTRONIC sensor
built into it which COMPARES the current ("amperage") flowing IN via the
"hot" or "L", to that flowing OUT via the "N" Neutral, back to the
[ground] in the electrical panel box where all the "breakers" are. If a
VERY FEW milliamperes more current flows IN than flows OUT, it means SOME
of the current is "escaping" "outside the circuit", such as when you drop
your dryer in the bathtub and kill the child therein, etc. The GFI then
instantly OPENS the circuit (as does a current overload which would blow
the fuze), and this (hopefully) saves the child in the bathtub who pulled
his AC-powered radio into the bath, while attempting to change the hip-hop
station.

There IS a reason for that "green wire", and, while most appliances WILL
operate if it is not connected, doing so is VERY DANGEROUS and "19th
Century mentality."

Further: GROUNDING the "box" or "chassis" of your appliance (or the metal
body of your hand-held power-drill, etc.!) will certainly NOT "smoke" your
just-purchased toy, but may-well SAVE YOUR LIFE!!!!

If your electrical outlets have only TWO conductors to each outlet, you do
not have this protection.


More on Grounding:
A power supply will almost certainly work without the ground, but if there
is a malfunction that bridges the insulation of the power supply, you
could get zapped. I tend to be pretty cavalier about a lot of stuff, but
at least when I get stuff permanently installed, I make sure the safety
grounds are properly done. Don't trust a separate ground rod, because
when a real short develops, it may have to sink hundreds of amps until the
breaker blows, and if you are touching the machine at the time, you'll get
the voltage drop across your body. Only a solid metal conductor running
all the way back to the transformer neutral can guarantee that such a voltage drop will be
small.

How to test for ground on an appliance: You should be able to see if G is
ground just by what it is connected to and the trace routing. Usually,
the ground is connected to the outside case so it you get zero resistance
between G and the case, that should be that.

If it is AC input, it really won't matter which goes where. If it has a
switch on it, generally the black wire coming from the wall socket is
switched and the white is common. Again, the white should be the N or
neutral, and L the black or Live. But just in case, see if the L goes
thru the switch (if any) and that should say something.

On Saturday 19 October 2002 11:19 am, you wrote:

Okay I'm retarded. I just realized that I was mixing up resistors and
capacitors. Duh.

On Saturday 19 October 2002 11:17 am, you wrote:

That's right. Then the capacitance drops when the caps are in paralell,
right?

Scot,
The voltage ratings of Caps in series is the sum of
their individual ratings, and in parallel it's the same
as the lowest rating of the individual caps.
Bill Higdon

On Friday 18 October 2002 09:45 pm, you wrote:

But doesn't the voltage rating drop to half when you run caps in series
and double when you run them in paralell?

Scot

SO, say two 33k resistors in series would equal to 66k resistance?

And two 1000uF capacitors in parallel would equal 2000uF
capacitance??

Regards,
Jim

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "Lloyd Leung" <lloyd@l...> wrote:

So:
- Resistors are in series [to gain resistance]
- Capacitors are in parallel [to gain uF]

I really should remember that, but I've only use it maybe once in

23

years [once in my life thus far]



-----Original Message-----
From: wanliker@a... [mailto:wanliker@a...]
Sent: October 18, 2002 11:16 PM
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y...
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Capacitors, no CAD, EDM, DRO

content but

maybe CNC

In a message dated 10/18/2002 5:15:26 PM Mountain Daylight Time,

lloyd@l... writes:

Btw, I forget if that was in series or parallel, it's been a few
months

Always in parallel to add values..............Often, makes a nicer
package
depending on the dimensions......
bill

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OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

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Scot,
Try this web site: . It was one I got for
casting leadscrew nuts, but I noticed they also had materials for casting
machine bases.

Marv Frankel
Los Angeles