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Re: Just On-board

 

On 8 May 1999 03:12:19 -0000, garfield@... wrote:

Wanted to say hi to all,
Oooooh, golly, my apologies for the lack of wordwrap on my "intro". I'll
be posting from me faithful 'Agent' from now on, so I trust I'll be a
tad less 'long-lined' from now on. B)

Cheers,
Gar


Re: Just On-board

 

In a message dated 99-05-07 23:12:52 EDT, you write:

<<
Anyhoo, look forward to seeing this grow. Anyone else keen on largish
gantry-style routers?
>>

I'm currently constructing a 48" x 96" x 24" gantry style router. I have a
smaller CNC router that I built a while back and am running with some
steppers salvaged from an old HP plotter and a large Toshiba printer, the
machine looks rather like a MaxNC mini mill with a Porter Cable laminate
trimmer as the cutting head.

My controller board is from Dan & co ... one of their 2 amp 3 axis boards..
Gonna get one of the 5 amp boards for my big table soon. I've found that
Bishop Wisecarver makes the least expensive quality linear motion components.

Jonathan Croad
jonty50@...


Re: Power Feed, something different,

james owens
 

Hi Tim,

Yes you are correct in the assumptiom that I am feeling a little frustrated and overwhelmed by this subject, it seems the more that I do the less I know and dealing with "THE PROFESIONAL PEOPLE" is not very productive. I am an engineer with too many years experience in the repair and reconditioning of machinery but little knowledge of electronics or computor programming. I know people who can do these things but it is very difficult to get straight answers.

I have a few of the disks that you refer to and can understand that some may find them almost impossible to remove, I did not mean to put anyone down by my comments. Two wedges driven or pressed together is the only way that such a delicate object could be removed without harm.

Regards,

Terry.

----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Goldstein
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2000 4:00 PM
Subject: RE: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Power Feed, something different,


From: "Tim Goldstein" <timg@...>

Hello Terry,

Welcome to the ranks of a participating member of this list!!

I think you will find a tremendous amount of help and support here and will
never find that the list is short of opinions or suggestions. It sounds as
if you are feeling a little overwhelmed by this whole CNC thing. If there
are specific areas that are causing you problems just post it to the list
and we will all try to get you through them. This post seems a little vague
on the area we can provide assistance with.

Regarding the encoder wheel on the shaft problem, I have enjoyed the thread
and found it interesting. You have to understand that what we are trying to
remove is a disc 2" in diameter that is about .005" thick and has 1000 slots
near the outer circumference. If you just look at them crooked you can bend
the slots or warp the disk. To make it harder they are bonded to the shaft
with a epoxy like substance.

Welcome aboard,


Tim
[Denver, CO]

timg@... <mailto:timg@...>


P.S. you might want to look over my website as it chronicles some of my CNC
adventure. Also check out Camtronics at and
read Dan's Secrets of CNC.


> From: "james owens" <wotisname@...>
>
> wotisname@...
>
> This is my first attempt at a reply to a message posted on a
> discussion group/news group as I have only just discovered the same.
>
> I am in the process of converting my workshop and find it very
> frustrating getting it all to together before it will all work
> and machining can be controlled by computer. The machine hardware
> must be designed and built, then the electronics, followed by the
> hook-ups and finally the software has to be found, learnt and
> installed. It is a great deal to take in from scratch especially
> as obtaining the information is sometimes harder than pulling
> ones own teeth.
>
> My point is that it was nice to have a suggestion that could
> utilize the hardware and get the system up and running before
> frustratision sets in or the cash runs out and the whole thing is
> put on hold with bit and pieces all over the shop.
>
> I could rant on about the simple process of removing an object
> from a shaft but I think enough has been said on this subject.
>
> Regards,
>
> Terry.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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Re: My Intro

Dennis Mino
 

Bob, Can you share the web pages for Space Time Prod. and Boondog? I am
interested in some stepper boards.....
Thanx.

----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Bachman <bobach@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Saturday, May 08, 1999 9:01 AM
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] My Intro


From: Bob Bachman <bobach@...>

Hello Everybody,

Glad to see all the activity on the new list.

My info:

I have a small shop here in mid-Michigan which my wife and I operate. (We
are semi-
retired.) Current projects are an EMCO-MAIER CNC lathe with an inoperable
control,
some DRO ideas, and a retrofit of a bp clone cnc mill. The mill had a
Crusader II
control on which I have thrown in the towel. The mill has servo motors and
scales.
I'll retrofit to a pc control of some sort - maybe Dan Mauch's setup or
AHHA or ??
Been experimenting with a stepper driver board from Simon at Space-Time
Prod. and
a parallel port board from Boondog.

Oh ya, trying to learn Intellicad too! Not enough hours in a
day/week/year.

Happy Tinkering,

Bob




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Re: Digest Number 1 & homebrew DRO

Steve Lindsay
 

I didn't know that US Digital had a PC inerface card. This would
be the way to go for a dro. Life is probably much similar this way rather
than
using my program.
Mine will work fine but some people have a heck of the time getting the lpt
port right to work with the program. I would think an interface card
would be faster
and US Digital is probably doing a lot of the work on the hardware/interface
that
I was doing in code.
Steve


PS.... What a great group!

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 07:46:17 -0400
From: rmcilvaine@...
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1 & homebrew DRO

Well I got the digest #1 last night (the second digest, since there was
a digest #0). Since my introduction was labeled message #1, anyone who
signed up after it was posted didn't see it (unless they signed up for
digested as well), so I included it below.

As I noted below, I'm in the process of doing my own DRO. Resolution of
the encoders is probably biggest $ consideration. In other words, the
more resolution you want the more $ you need.

US Digital can provide linear encoders that will provide resolution of
.0006". These cost around $50 bucks each, depending on length, shorter =
cheaper. The are also manufacturers that have linears with .0001"
resolution, they'll cost around $500 for an 18" version.

I got the US Digital PC interface card. It has 4 channels, so, while I'm
only using 2, one for X and one for Y, I can expand to a Z axis if
necessary. At this point I don't know what I'd do with a 4th dimension,
speed I suppose.

The actual display was cheap, that old PC that been gathering dust since
the last upgrade was free!

I wrote the software, so I can make it do what ever I want. Currently,
it displays X and Y travel as well as feed rate. It can do presets,
zeros...the usual stuff.


Re: intro update

James P Crombie <[email protected]
 

Looking forward to seeing your web pages on this. I just gor a brochure for a small tap remover from Taiwan but havn't got a
price on it yet. take a look at

I worked in a mold shop that had a Camman tap buster, it used molybdenum tubing for the electrode and a milky colored dialectric
coolant fluid. I had used it to remove everything from a 2-56 tap to stuck 2" shcs.
These things can save a lot of parts and I wouldn't mind making one for myself .
Jon Elson wrote:

From: Jon Elson <jmelson@...>

Oh, yes, one other thing mentioned that I did recently --

I had some broken off taps in parts I was making, and decided one
weekend to see what I could do about that. I threw together a low
power EDM system from a large assortment of miscellaneous
parts. I made an electrode from a piece of 1/16" brazing rod
with one end brazed into a socket head cap screw. I threaded
the screw into a big nylon spacer I had, and mounted that in my
milling machine's Jacobs chuck. I was able to use the CNC
mill's positioning system to move the electrode just where I
wanted it. For EDM fluid, I first tried tap water, but that foamed
and sputtered away quickly. I then went to alum-tap tapping
fluid, which worked fantastically as an EDM fluid. I set up
for about 30 V open circuit, and started the mill in the slowest
backgear range (80 RPM). With the brazing rod almost perfectly
straight, it orbited about .010 - .015", clearing out a bigger hole
in the tap than the diameter of the rd, itself.

I programmed the CNC to advance the spindle at about .006
to .01" per minute, and used the feed override to keep EDM
current between .25 and .5 Amp. I replenished the fluid as needed,
and raised the electrode and cleaned out the hole when progress
stopped (about every .020"). I got rid of each tap in about 10
to 25 minutes, depending on how much of the tap was left down
in the hole. Mostly, after the EDM operation, all that was left of
the tap was the very tip of the flutes, and they could be picked
out with a fine needle. All the holes were later tapped and
the parts used. An earlier attempt to burn the taps out with
Nitric Acid was not very successful, and left the aluminum
slightly stained, but the EDM did no damage to the workpiece
at all.

I plan to put all this, including diagrams and photos on my
web pages.

Jon

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Answer: ONElist. Check out our homepage for details!
------------------------------------------------------------------------
welcome to CAD/CAM/EDM/DRO@..., an unmodulated list for the discussion of shop built systems in the above catagories.
--
---------------------------------------------------------------------

James P Crombie
Summerside PEI Canada

My Astronomy stuff
RhinoCad 3D Stuff

---------------------------------------------------------------------


Re: Digest Number 2

Andrew Werby
 

Gar <garfield@...> wrote:

Subject: Just On-board

Wanted to say hi to all, and specially to those who've helped me in past,
such as Dan Mauch. Hi Dan. Hi the rest of yous CNC guys from RCM. Also
special thanks to Bill for "janitoring" the group (that's a term of respect
on some other groups I've been part of, so take it as a compliment B).

My ongoing projects:

CNC'd Sherline's (the usual lathe and mill stuff)

4' X 8' X 24"+ CNC bed router for alum/urethane foam contour routing for
eXperimental aircraft and automotive stuff. Guides built around surplus
Thomson shafting, bearing, and ball-screws.

Both powered by Dan's small and large motor-controllers, respectively,
along with the usual AHHA Artisan & PC interface, etc. All the step-motors
for both of the above I also got from Dan. Am I a Mauch mooch or what? Heh.

Love to learn about and eventually get into CNC'd hot-wire styro cutters,
small-scale EDM, and FINALLY discover with the group some encoders that
would make nice inexpensive (<$100/axis) linear DRO's feasible. Dang, why
doesn't HP make some of their linears with the right resolution! Their
rotary's are perfecto. Grumble.

Anyhoo, look forward to seeing this grow. Anyone else keen on largish
gantry-style routers?

Gar Willis
Merced, CA

[I've been dreaming about a large gantry router for a while now. It seems that
surplus parts exist that would facilitate the construction of one of these,
but no
one source seems to have all the parts I'd need, and I'm hesitant to invest in
a pile of parts that might not ultimately be the right size. Any words of
wisdom
on the best parts to look for? I'd like it to be heavy-duty enough to cut
parts out
of wood- foam doesn't appeal to me much, although I realize that urethane
foam prototyping board makes good patterns (but is brutally expensive.)
I'd be
interested in discussing the pros and cons of other machinable materials.
I've
got a pile of surplus I-beams that I was thinking of using as a
super-structure,
because the compaint about most of these gantries is lack of rigidity in the
traveling beam. But these things are heavy, so I'd have to find
correspondingly
bigger motors, I suppose. The main reason I'm considering building instead of
buying one of these (aside from basic skinflintery) is because the
available units
I've seen never have much z-axis- they all seem to be made for sign-makers.
But
with extra z-axis comes another problem- how to find end-mills long enough to
reach? And even if they can extend far enough, are they going to be stiff
enough
to work? Has anybody dealt with this, and come up with a solution? How far
along
is your router project- any pictures yet?]

Andrew Werby


Andrew Werby - United Artworks
Sculpture, Jewelry, and Other Art Stuff


Re: Power Feed, something different,

james owens
 

wotisname@...

This is my first attempt at a reply to a message posted on a discussion group/news group as I have only just discovered the same.

I am in the process of converting my workshop and find it very frustrating getting it all to together before it will all work and machining can be controlled by computer. The machine hardware must be designed and built, then the electronics, followed by the hook-ups and finally the software has to be found, learnt and installed. It is a great deal to take in from scratch especially as obtaining the information is sometimes harder than pulling ones own teeth.

My point is that it was nice to have a suggestion that could utilize the hardware and get the system up and running before frustratision sets in or the cash runs out and the whole thing is put on hold with bit and pieces all over the shop.

I could rant on about the simple process of removing an object from a shaft but I think enough has been said on this subject.

Regards,

Terry.

----- Original Message -----
From: wanliker@...
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2000 11:57 PM
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Power Feed, something different,


From: wanliker@...

I think everyone missed the point of what I was trying to get done. I am
trying to get the lurkers out and talking, and thought maybe that showing
them that steppers would make a good manual, potentiometer, controlled power
feed would be helpful to a lot of folks, especially if there equipment does
not have it built in.
And once they had the power feed, then it would be easy to hook up the
computer for a full blown CAM system. We need more variety on the CAD_CAM__
list.

Oh well the best laid plans of mice and men.
bill

------------------------------------------------------------------------------



------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Welcome to CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...,an unmoderated list for the discussion of shop built systems in the above catagories.
To Unsubscribe, read archives, change to or from digest.
Go to:
Log on, and you will go to Member Center, and you can make changes there.
For the FAQ, go to
bill,
List Manager


My Intro

Bob Bachman
 

Hello Everybody,

Glad to see all the activity on the new list.

My info:

I have a small shop here in mid-Michigan which my wife and I operate. (We
are semi-
retired.) Current projects are an EMCO-MAIER CNC lathe with an inoperable
control,
some DRO ideas, and a retrofit of a bp clone cnc mill. The mill had a
Crusader II
control on which I have thrown in the towel. The mill has servo motors and
scales.
I'll retrofit to a pc control of some sort - maybe Dan Mauch's setup or
AHHA or ??
Been experimenting with a stepper driver board from Simon at Space-Time
Prod. and
a parallel port board from Boondog.

Oh ya, trying to learn Intellicad too! Not enough hours in a day/week/year.

Happy Tinkering,

Bob


Re: Burning out taps in a milling machine

Russell Dunn <[email protected]
 

Hi Jon,

There is one part of your description that is, I think, missing and it is
the part I would like more info on please. How did you route the electric
current from it's source to the brazing rod electrode, and how many amps are
we talking about here please.

I would think that you did not pass the current through the machine bearings
and your alternative path is of real interest to me.

Kind regards,
Russell Dunn
near Newman,
Western Australia

----------
From: Jon Elson[SMTP:jmelson@...]
Sent: Saturday, 8 May 1999 12:58
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...; jmelson@...
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] intro update

From: Jon Elson <jmelson@...>

Oh, yes, one other thing mentioned that I did recently --

I had some broken off taps in parts I was making, and decided one
weekend to see what I could do about that. I threw together a low
power EDM system from a large assortment of miscellaneous
parts. I made an electrode from a piece of 1/16" brazing rod
with one end brazed into a socket head cap screw. I threaded
the screw into a big nylon spacer I had, and mounted that in my
milling machine's Jacobs chuck. I was able to use the CNC
mill's positioning system to move the electrode just where I
wanted it. For EDM fluid, I first tried tap water, but that foamed
and sputtered away quickly. I then went to alum-tap tapping
fluid, which worked fantastically as an EDM fluid. I set up
for about 30 V open circuit, and started the mill in the slowest
backgear range (80 RPM). With the brazing rod almost perfectly
straight, it orbited about .010 - .015", clearing out a bigger hole
in the tap than the diameter of the rd, itself.

I programmed the CNC to advance the spindle at about .006
to .01" per minute, and used the feed override to keep EDM
current between .25 and .5 Amp. I replenished the fluid as needed,
and raised the electrode and cleaned out the hole when progress
stopped (about every .020"). I got rid of each tap in about 10
to 25 minutes, depending on how much of the tap was left down
in the hole. Mostly, after the EDM operation, all that was left of
the tap was the very tip of the flutes, and they could be picked
out with a fine needle. All the holes were later tapped and
the parts used. An earlier attempt to burn the taps out with
Nitric Acid was not very successful, and left the aluminum
slightly stained, but the EDM did no damage to the workpiece
at all.

I plan to put all this, including diagrams and photos on my
web pages.

Jon


------------------------------------------------------------------------
Who offers the richest group communications tools on the Internet?

Answer: ONElist. Check out our homepage for details!
------------------------------------------------------------------------
welcome to CAD/CAM/EDM/DRO@..., an unmodulated list for the
discussion of shop built systems in the above catagories.


[Fwd: Wire EDM]

Charles Brumbelow
 

More CAM . . .

Richegge@... wrote:


As I recall there has been some discussion of wire EDM's. I use mine to make
aluminum reindeer. Please take a look at
Richard Egge
Atl


Introduction and CAD Question

Roger Mason
 

Hi,

I've been directed towards this list from the modeleng-list. I
recognise a number of the names of contributors to this list as being
folk who also post to the model engineering list.

My main interest is tools and machinery, although steam & clocks
are also interests. I was tempted to come and lurk on this list as
the idea of being able to control a lathe or milling machine from a
computer has obvious benifits. If only I could work out how to do
it. Hopefully I will learn by "reading the mail".

I notice that the heading of this list includes "CAD". I am
trying to teach myself how to use AutoCad in my spare time. I
haven't got very far with it, but can produce simple two
dimensional, dimensioned, drawings. I have what ought to be a
simple question, but I cannot seem to find the answer. How can you
copy items (lines, text, dimensions, etc.) from one layer to
another? All my attempts just duplicate the items on the original
layer! Can it be done? If so how?

I hope this is not too far outside the brief of this list. If it
is please let me know, and I will resume the lurk mode!


Cheers,


Roger Mason, in Hong Kong


[Fwd: Drawing Gears]

Charles Brumbelow
 

Take a look at these pages . . . Charles

Edward Haas wrote:


--My friend Bryan Mumford is using Corel Draw as I recall. The
main advantage is that he's figured out a way to get the part from drawing
to cut metal with his home-brew cnc rig. He's using it to cut clock gears
from brass and if you want to see more of same, link over to:

--Quite an incredible page actually and he's usually up to
something remarkable..

"Steamboat Ed" Haas : To err is human
Check out my latest road trip! : To moo is bovine...

---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---


intro update

Jon Elson
 

Oh, yes, one other thing mentioned that I did recently --

I had some broken off taps in parts I was making, and decided one
weekend to see what I could do about that. I threw together a low
power EDM system from a large assortment of miscellaneous
parts. I made an electrode from a piece of 1/16" brazing rod
with one end brazed into a socket head cap screw. I threaded
the screw into a big nylon spacer I had, and mounted that in my
milling machine's Jacobs chuck. I was able to use the CNC
mill's positioning system to move the electrode just where I
wanted it. For EDM fluid, I first tried tap water, but that foamed
and sputtered away quickly. I then went to alum-tap tapping
fluid, which worked fantastically as an EDM fluid. I set up
for about 30 V open circuit, and started the mill in the slowest
backgear range (80 RPM). With the brazing rod almost perfectly
straight, it orbited about .010 - .015", clearing out a bigger hole
in the tap than the diameter of the rd, itself.

I programmed the CNC to advance the spindle at about .006
to .01" per minute, and used the feed override to keep EDM
current between .25 and .5 Amp. I replenished the fluid as needed,
and raised the electrode and cleaned out the hole when progress
stopped (about every .020"). I got rid of each tap in about 10
to 25 minutes, depending on how much of the tap was left down
in the hole. Mostly, after the EDM operation, all that was left of
the tap was the very tip of the flutes, and they could be picked
out with a fine needle. All the holes were later tapped and
the parts used. An earlier attempt to burn the taps out with
Nitric Acid was not very successful, and left the aluminum
slightly stained, but the EDM did no damage to the workpiece
at all.

I plan to put all this, including diagrams and photos on my
web pages.

Jon


Just On-board

 

Wanted to say hi to all, and specially to those who've helped me in past, such as Dan Mauch. Hi Dan. Hi the rest of yous CNC guys from RCM. Also special thanks to Bill for "janitoring" the group (that's a term of respect on some other groups I've been part of, so take it as a compliment B).

My ongoing projects:

CNC'd Sherline's (the usual lathe and mill stuff)

4' X 8' X 24"+ CNC bed router for alum/urethane foam contour routing for eXperimental aircraft and automotive stuff. Guides built around surplus Thomson shafting, bearing, and ball-screws.

Both powered by Dan's small and large motor-controllers, respectively, along with the usual AHHA Artisan & PC interface, etc. All the step-motors for both of the above I also got from Dan. Am I a Mauch mooch or what? Heh.

Love to learn about and eventually get into CNC'd hot-wire styro cutters, small-scale EDM, and FINALLY discover with the group some encoders that would make nice inexpensive (<$100/axis) linear DRO's feasible. Dang, why doesn't HP make some of their linears with the right resolution! Their rotary's are perfecto. Grumble.

Anyhoo, look forward to seeing this grow. Anyone else keen on largish gantry-style routers?

Gar Willis
Merced, CA


Re: Digest Number 1

Scott S. Logan
 

[Um, could someone start from the beginning and tell us what NAMES is or
was? Was that a machine show? I happen to be a discount online distributor
_N_orth
_A_merican
_M_odel
_E_ngineering
_S_ociety

They organize an annual exposition of Models and Model Building, also Model
related vendors.

See for details and photos.

Next year's show will be the last weekend in April, same place, longer hours
(till 8PM Saturday).

--
Message from Scott Logan Support the anti-Spam amendment
ssl@... Join at


DRO /Lindsay

 

I just checked the Lindsay DRO page, and all links are operational now.
Thanks Steve. This is the one I posted before, but it had a few problems.
Also be sure to spell Angelfire correctly if you type it. Wrong and you get
XXX site.

<A href=">DRO SOFTWARE
</A>

bill


NAMES PRIME

 

Here are the links for Names and Prime for anyone that might not know what
they are.
Bill

<A href=">NAMES Show Info</A>

<A href=">PRIME Exhibition Home: Pacific Rim
International Model Engineering Society
</A>


Re: Digest Number 1 & homebrew DRO

Marshall Pharoah
 

I've been looking at this for some time as I would like to add it to a
miniature vertical mill I have. Questions I have are:

It appears that the scales are a flexible mylar. How do you attach
them, with some sort of light spring arrangement maybe?

What about temperature stability? My shop is not heated.

COuld you post some pictures in the drop box showing your mounting
schemes?

Maybe you should do an article on this for HSM.

My background:
While I can and have written some windows software, my real area of
expertise is in the area of microcontroller programming for control of
telephony devices, (real time control). I am familiar with the
6802/68HC11/68705/PIC processors. I muck with woodworking and
metalworking.

Thanks for the info.

rmcilvaine@... wrote:


From: rmcilvaine@...

Well I got the digest #1 last night (the second digest, since there was
a digest #0). Since my introduction was labeled message #1, anyone who
signed up after it was posted didn't see it (unless they signed up for
digested as well), so I included it below.

As I noted below, I'm in the process of doing my own DRO. Resolution of
the encoders is probably biggest $ consideration. In other words, the
more resolution you want the more $ you need.

US Digital can provide linear encoders that will provide resolution of
.0006". These cost around $50 bucks each, depending on length, shorter =
cheaper. The are also manufacturers that have linears with .0001"
resolution, they'll cost around $500 for an 18" version.

I got the US Digital PC interface card. It has 4 channels, so, while I'm
only using 2, one for X and one for Y, I can expand to a Z axis if
necessary. At this point I don't know what I'd do with a 4th dimension,
speed I suppose.

The actual display was cheap, that old PC that been gathering dust since
the last upgrade was free!

I wrote the software, so I can make it do what ever I want. Currently,
it displays X and Y travel as well as feed rate. It can do presets,
zeros...the usual stuff.

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 08:14:47 -0400
From: rmcilvaine@...
Subject: Starting point

Hi all,

I subscribed to the digested list and have not received the first
digest. Therefore I don't know what, if anything, has been discussed.

Maybe a good starting point would be for those who were at NAMES, to
tell those of us who weren't, about the conversation that
brought about
the creation of this list.

Are we going to talk about homebrew EDM/DRO?

If so I'm in the process of mounting X & Y .0001" res. encoders to my
Bridgeport. These are connected to two channels of a US Digital 4
channel encoder interface card in an old 286 PC.
I wrote the software for this card.

Are we going to talk about CAD?

I've had the dubious honor of spending the better part of the last 25
years in the CAD industry.

Are we going to talk CAM?

I started my computer career designing CAM machinery for the ancient
technology of wire wrapped digital circuit boards. We used small
computers back then, they were only 6 ft. high in a 19 inch wide rack
cabinet, with the latest storage media available...paper tape readers!

So, let the games begin!

Mac
Homebrewer and tinker by choice, Computer geek by trade.

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------------------------------------------------------------------------
welcome to CAD/CAM/EDM/DRO@..., an unmodulated list for the discussion of shop built systems in the above catagories.
--
Marshall Pharoah
Software Engineer
Adirondac Software


Re: Hello

Dan Mauch
 

www.seanet.com/~dmauch
Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Fairey <bfairey@...>
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@... <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Date: Thursday, May 06, 1999 1:36 PM
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Hello


Dan, there you are, what is the URL of your web page?
Brian, Ont, Canada.
Dan Mauch wrote:

Looks like in time this will be a good site.Dan