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C14 Edge secondary
Hi All, I have recently had the opportunity to work with the Mauna Kea Visitor Center here on the Big Island of Hawaii. ?They have a C14 Edge equipped with Hyperstar that we use for live viewing of DSO's using a Lodestar X2c and Lodestar Live software. ?We only do this two nights a week, so we install and uninstall the Hyperstar each night. ?I noticed the other night that the secondary lens mount is loose on the corrector plate. ?When installing the Hyperstar unit, it continues to turn even though it is seated in it's mounting ring. ?I also noticed that there is a bit of play relative to the corrector plate. ?I suspect this is not right. ?Is there a threaded retaining ring that holds the secondary mount to the corrector plate? ?Is it as simple as holding the outside ring and tightening the inside retaining ring. ?Also, is it important to have the secondary rotated in a certain position relative to the corrector plate? ? Thanks for any help on this. Don |
Hi Don. I'm a visual observer at this stage, and the same thing happens on my non-Hyperstar C14 EdgeHD secondary. I have a Cool Edge OTA cooling unit from Starizona that screws into the Fastar secondary just like a Hyperstar. At times while installing/de-installing there has seemed to occur reverse direction play in the entire secondary assembly. It is disturbing, but my sense is that it's likely common.On Mon, Nov 2, 2015 at 11:49 AM, don@... [C14_EdgeHD] <C14_EdgeHD@...> wrote:
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Lee Gordon +1 (206) 200-9916 (c) +1 (206) 653-0019 (h) |
Gary Jarrette
If the secondary is loose or has turned it is more likely than not that you have compromised your collimation. The amount that you normally have to turn the collimation screws when you are doing your final tweaks to the screws is infinitesimal so it follows that if you rotate the secondary or worse yet it is loose in all likelihood you will have to recollimate once you take care of problem number one. Some washers on the SCTs are fiber and therefore mire prone to slippage. They may over time even dry out a bit. I believe Dean down at Starizona has washers that are more rubberized in their composition and therefore less likely to slip. Starizona has them for all size of scopes. The material they are made of is Zorbathane. It is slightly tacky to the feel. Call Dean and order them and tell him Gary sent you. With that referal and five bucks you can get an over priced cup of coffee at Starbucks. LOL Gary Carpe Noctem Sent from my space ship via my LG V10.
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Hi Don. I'm a visual observer at this stage, and the same thing happens on my non-Hyperstar C14 EdgeHD secondary. I have a Cool Edge OTA cooling unit from Starizona that screws into the Fastar secondary just like a Hyperstar. At times while installing/de-installing there has seemed to occur reverse direction play in the entire secondary assembly. It is disturbing, but my sense is that it's likely common.On Mon, Nov 2, 2015 at 11:49 AM, don@... [C14_EdgeHD] <C14_EdgeHD@...> wrote:
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Gary, if the secondary housing turns, it could compromise collimation in a "situational" sense, yes? In other words, tightening the housing and using the secondary outer ring should be sufficient; then recollimate and confirm during observation. The Cool Edge doesn't use washers; it's a metal device looking exactly an automotive carburetor. The key is that it not be tightened too significantly. It's actually a somewhat delicate operation. It's brilliant and saves for C14 users...On Mon, Nov 2, 2015 at 1:57 PM, Gary Jarrette garyjarrette@... [C14_EdgeHD] <C14_EdgeHD@...> wrote:
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Lee Gordon +1 (206) 200-9916 (c) +1 (206) 653-0019 (h) |
Gary Jarrette
I would think that yes you are registering on one side of the secondary holder against glass, this in a perfect world should be sufficient to collimate the Telescope but because the primary might be at a slight angle to the axis of the scope the three collimation adjusting screws on the secondary are necessary to tilt the secondary in order to achieve perfect collimation. I would be concerned if there was not a washer under the nut as turning the nut against glass would make me nervous. Because the secondary is now setting at an angle rotating the housing will cause the collimation to be off. Think of it like procession. Rotating the secondary causes the axis of the secondary to wobble. So the rubber washer keeps the secondary from rotating and voil¨¢ collimation is preserved. I do not have the cooler fan but am sure it does a good job of equalizing the temperature. I do have a Hyperstar secondary holder so I must be careful to not turn too hard when reinstalling the secondary mirror nut. On Nov 2, 2015 5:53 PM, "Lee Gordon jleegordon@... [C14_EdgeHD]" <C14_EdgeHD@...> wrote:
> > ? > > Gary, if the secondary housing turns, it could compromise collimation in a "situational" sense, yes? In other words, tightening the housing and using the secondary outer ring should be sufficient; then recollimate and confirm during observation. > > The Cool Edge doesn't use washers; it's a metal device looking exactly an automotive carburetor. The key is that it not be tightened too significantly. It's actually a somewhat delicate operation. It's brilliant and saves for C14 users... > > > > However a loose secondary housing can complicate things... > > Carpe Noctem > > > > On Mon, Nov 2, 2015 at 1:57 PM, Gary Jarrette garyjarrette@... [C14_EdgeHD] <C14_EdgeHD@...> wrote: >> >> ? >> >> If the secondary is loose or has turned it is more likely than not that you have compromised your collimation. The amount that you normally have to turn the collimation screws when you are doing your final tweaks to the screws is infinitesimal so it follows that if you rotate the secondary or worse yet it is loose in all likelihood you will have to recollimate once you take care of problem number one. >> >> Some washers on the SCTs are fiber and therefore mire prone to slippage. They may over time even dry out a bit. I believe Dean down at Starizona has washers that are more rubberized in their composition and therefore less likely to slip. Starizona has them for all size of scopes. The material they are made of is Zorbathane. It is slightly tacky to the feel. >> >> Call Dean and order them and tell him Gary sent you. With that referal and five bucks you can get an over priced cup of coffee at Starbucks. LOL >> >> Gary >> >> Carpe Noctem >> >> Sent from my space ship via my LG V10. >> >> ? >> >> Hi Don. >> >> I'm a visual observer at this stage, and the same thing happens on my non-Hyperstar C14 EdgeHD secondary. I have a Cool Edge OTA cooling unit from Starizona that screws into the Fastar secondary just like a Hyperstar. At times while installing/de-installing there has seemed to occur reverse direction play in the entire secondary assembly. It is disturbing, but my sense is that it's likely common. >> >> Nevertheless, I too will be very interested in user comments. >> >> Lee >> >> On Mon, Nov 2, 2015 at 11:49 AM, don@... [C14_EdgeHD] <C14_EdgeHD@...> wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> >>> Hi All, >>> >>> >>> I have recently had the opportunity to work with the Mauna Kea Visitor Center here on the Big Island of Hawaii.? They have a C14 Edge equipped with Hyperstar that we use for live viewing of DSO's using a Lodestar X2c and Lodestar Live software.? We only do this two nights a week, so we install and uninstall the Hyperstar each night.? I noticed the other night that the secondary lens mount is loose on the corrector plate.? When installing the Hyperstar unit, it continues to turn even though it is seated in it's mounting ring.? I also noticed that there is a bit of play relative to the corrector plate.? I suspect this is not right.? Is there a threaded retaining ring that holds the secondary mount to the corrector plate?? Is it as simple as holding the outside ring and tightening the inside retaining ring.? Also, is it important to have the secondary rotated in a certain position relative to the corrector plate? ? >>> >>> >>> Thanks for any help on this. >>> >>> >>> Don >> >> >> >> >> -- >> >> >> >> Lee Gordon >> +55 (21) 3942-3430 (Skype) >> +1 (206) 200-9916 (c) >> +1 (206) 653-0019 (h) > > > > > -- > > > > Lee Gordon > +55 (21) 3942-3430 (Skype) > +1 (206) 200-9916 (c) > +1 (206) 653-0019 (h) > > |
Thanks, Gary and Lee.
I think the secondary mount should not rotate, and doing so would definitely affect the collimation. ?That's why there's a registration notch, so the secondary will have the same position when put back. ?I looked at the cross section of the C14 Edge and it appears that the secondary mount is secured by a threaded lock ring on the inside of the corrector plate. ?I don't see a washer, but there might be one. ?If the washer is an elastomeric material, it could take a set and cause the looseness. ?I still have the same questions. ?Is the secondary mount tightened by simply holding the lock ring and turning the exterior cylindrical mount, and it the orientation of the secondary important, putting aside the collimation issue? Thanks, Don |
Gary Jarrette
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýDon At this point I will defer to Dean the owner of Starizona but will add these comments. Please allow me to pontificate. First in order to replace the washer you will have to remove the corrector. It can be done with added difficulty by not removing the corrector but you could scratch the corrector coatings which is not a good thing to say the least. This is a task that should not be taken lightly. On the Edge as well as on other SCT models the corrector is centered, actually moved into position, in the scope front tube end ring and this is not always the exact center of the front tube ring hence the need for shimming, screws, etc, and alignment. In the real world there is also a little matter of a thing called ¡°coplanarity¡±. Everything you manufacture has a certain flatness and each plain has a certain ?alignment with regards to other ?plains on other components of an assembly. This applies to lenses surfaces and the surfaces to which lenses are mated with. Now you throw in a big aluminum tube with holes in the periphery which are aligned with holes in the end housings of the scopes. You see where this is going. This is why mounting rings etc. have to be twisted and turned so as to allow for the most perfect coplanarity of all components. Now you throw in ¡°axial¡± alignment and you begin to see the complexity of optical systems. Not even say the secondary mirror back surface which is flat may be perpendicular to the focal point axis of the curved mirror so collimation takes care of this also. Not all scopes are created equal. Sometimes in the manufacturing process or components or in assembly all the errors cancel out each other and you have a perfect scope. On other occasions you have the ¡°combination¡± of errors working against you, this is what is known as a ¡°lemon¡± and you get a fair scope. Yes they are still within the acceptable design criteria but not as good as the ¡°Perfect¡± scope. It is just a matter of luck sometimes. Sometimes we play these errors against one another in an assembly to our advantage and it is done a lot. In manufacturing there is a thing called Geometric Tolerancing. It is a method by which all parts are made so as alignment with other parts in complex assemblies will be insured. It is different than simple part print tolerancing and is necessary in complex assemblies. In a perfect world everything would be flat, round, concentric, perfect in axial alignment, etc. and the list goes on. Optical alignment is a pesky thing. In the early days corrector alignment was accomplished with cork shims, which eventually shrunk, and of course this was done on an optical bench, as they still do. The alignment of the corrector can be done to a degree, and I use the term degree in a comparative nature, by eye. This however in no way, compared with the alignment accuracy needed for astrophotography, is acceptable. This applies many times over for Edge Scopes. With the edge you are paying for as nearly as possible perfect optics and superior alignment. This is what you paid for. There is a white paper on the Edge scopes and it can be found here and I suggest you read it as it is very good information for anyone. It mentions the set screws used for corrector alignment. Once again everything depends on the user or what you are willing to settle for.
I actually made components for three Thermal Emission Spectrometers for three Mars missions and some of the tolerances on mating surfaces were a PIA and all this was to insure the least amount of mechanical alignment in the final assembly. My parts are still circling he planet on the Mars Global Surveyor some setting on the planet on two subsequent mission¡¯s instruments, and yes I have bragging rights that is why I am blowing this horn. LOL LOL It is all that an old guy like me can hope for these days. I am not an optical engineer by an stretch just an old Tool & Die maker but like an old ship I have picked up a few barnacles along the way. I have a ¡°fair¡± degree of understanding of the esoteric, and the emphasis is on the word ¡°fair¡± only because of my many years in the trade and I might add that sometimes I am wrong. ¡°To err is human.¡± Actually the only time I was wrong when I said I was wrong but was not! LOL LOL LOL By the way as mentioned in the article it says ¡°The instruments designer¡± actually not true! It is the matter of the ¡°s¡±. I was ¡°a instrument designer¡± not that instruments designer. Sometimes reporters make errors. I am sure that burned the butts of many at JPL. LOL LOL Unfortunately worlds may come and go but the Internet lives on forever. LOL I have done a few corrector removals and reinstallations on Celestron scopes but not Edge scopes as I was shown how to do this by Dean down in Tucson. I know just enough to be dangerous. LOL The alignment by eye and is subjective at best especially by the great unwashed. With Dean he can do a good job because he has done thousands. On a regular Celestron and for eye piece viewing this may be acceptable depending on whether or not you are a purist. By the way for full disclosure I have a 14¡± Edge Celestron Scope. I bought mine before they were released and had to wait 4 months for them to be delivered. Now on the Edge. This alignment of the corrector is done by set screws located around the periphery. This insures no shrinkage because shims are not used and a more precise location method was needed. With screws also comes inherent risks as you are screwing screws against the edge of the corrector. Now to be honest if you remove just enough set screws to free the corrector and leave in three you could theoretically remove the corrector do your work and then reinstall it pushing it to one side against the screws that you did not disturb but one would never know for sure that you had attained the alignment you had before that was done on an optical bench. And of course it goes without saying that the corrector has to be put back ?in at the exact same rotational alignment as it was before it was removed. So you see the magnitude of the problem, there are caveats in any endeavor. Depending upon your level of skill and ¡°boldness¡±, read ¡°cojones¡±, as Robert Frost would say, ¡°Two Roads Diverged in a Yellow Wood, and sorry I could not travel both. And be one traveler, long I stood¡±. The choice is yours ¡°Should I stay or should I go¡±? ? Choose wisely but talk to Dean he is the master short of the factory and will give you the best advice. If you are within driving distance perhaps a road trip is in order besides I always learn when I go there even just to chat. You never know who you might meet there as Tucson is a hot spot for many astronomers. You will not meet a finer man than Dean at Starizona, his crew, and of course his charming wife Donna and you can take that to the Bank. Sorry I pontificated but you were warned and I never fail to abuse a captive audience! All this because of a washer! Yikes! LOL Read the White Paper it is an interesting read. Gary Carpe Noctem
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Thanks, Gary.
I spoke with Dean at Starizona and he was very helpful. ?The secondary mount can be tightened without removing the corrector by rotating the baffle tube with the secondary mirror removed and sticking your hand through the opening. ?It is important to make sure the mirror notch is in the right orientation and that the mounting ring is concentric with the corrector plate and primary mirror. ?The older Celestrons had the notch always positioned at 3 o'clock, but the recent ones can be anywhere, so he suggested to align the Fastar logo with the scope. ?With the notch in the proper orientation, the baffle tube should be rotated CCW as viewed and tightened as tight as you can. ?You can see if it's concentric by viewing the opening four or five feet in front of the scope. ?Dean sells a better rubber gasket that will eliminate future loosening, but the corrector plate must be removed. ?There are how to videos on the Starizona website for the Hyperstar conversion kit install that describe some of these actions in more detail. Thanks, again for your input and suggestions. ?I'll do a follow up in case others have the same issue. Don |
Gary Jarrette
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýDon ? Yes you can align by the method Dean suggests and I have him seen him do it in person. It requires a bit of skill as l have and said you have to stand back just the right distance and center the baffle tube in your field of view. The trick is to get just the right distance from the scope so the outer edge of the primary is just visible as you look directly into the scope it is a bit of a trick but it can be done. It is harder to explain then it is to do however. ? Good Luck and I hope Dean lived up to my praise. He is a great guy and a fair guy. ? Regards, ? Gary ? Carpe Noctem ? From: C14_EdgeHD@... [mailto:C14_EdgeHD@...]
Sent: Tuesday, November 3, 2015 10:29 AM To: C14_EdgeHD@... Subject: Re: [C14_EdgeHD] Re: C14 Edge secondary ? ? Thanks, Gary. ? I spoke with Dean at Starizona and he was very helpful. ?The secondary mount can be tightened without removing the corrector by rotating the baffle tube with the secondary mirror removed and sticking your hand through the opening. ?It is important to make sure the mirror notch is in the right orientation and that the mounting ring is concentric with the corrector plate and primary mirror. ?The older Celestrons had the notch always positioned at 3 o'clock, but the recent ones can be anywhere, so he suggested to align the Fastar logo with the scope. ?With the notch in the proper orientation, the baffle tube should be rotated CCW as viewed and tightened as tight as you can. ?You can see if it's concentric by viewing the opening four or five feet in front of the scope. ?Dean sells a better rubber gasket that will eliminate future loosening, but the corrector plate must be removed. ?There are how to videos on the Starizona website for the Hyperstar conversion kit install that describe some of these actions in more detail. ? Thanks, again for your input and suggestions. ?I'll do a follow up in case others have the same issue. ? Don |
>Also, is it important to have the secondary rotated in a certain position relative to the corrector plate??
YES, it is. The primary has usually got a very good figure because it is Spherical and easier to make, but the Schmidt Corrector often has various flaws. Celestron hand null the Secondary mirror with polishing material to make the system near perfect. But if the Corrector has Astigmatism (I have seen it happen on CN for example) then Celestron hand polishes the reverse Astigmatism into the secondary to null it out. Astigmatism of the system then depends on rotational alignment of secondary to corrector. With the older conventional SCT's there was a serial no. near the edge of the glass of the corrector plate at the 3 o'clock position as seen from the front of the OTA (must read correctly, not be backwards). There is a line on the back of the secondary mirror which must also point in the same direction. That orientates the secondary to the corrector and the corrector to the tube. Fastar Edge HD OTA's IIRC have a gasket which looses elasticity / shrinks, causing the problem of unwanted secondary rotation. Starizona have a replacement Sorbothane gasket which seems to work rather better. Best Regards, Alistair G. |
Don, these instructions are for all HD's correct? Not only in relation to Hyperstar usage? Also, can it be assumed the secondary notch will be properly oriented with the baffle tube fully tightened (and with "the Fastar logo aligned with the scope"? I ask this because this orientation may not be in the fully tightened position. It's easy to feel play in the tube, versus when it's "tight".Thanks for gathering this useful information. Lee On Tue, Nov 3, 2015 at 10:28 AM, don@... [C14_EdgeHD] <C14_EdgeHD@...> wrote:
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Lee Gordon +1 (206) 200-9916 (c) +1 (206) 653-0019 (h) |
Gary,
Dean is quite knowledgeable and helpful. ?I have dealt with him before. ?We had a bad thread on the Hyperstar camera adapter and he sent me a new one, no charge, and didn't even want the old one back. He also told me that if I needed more help with the adjustment to call him and he would walk me through it. Thanks again for all your help. Don |
Gary Jarrette
You are quite welcome. I hope all works out well for you. Gary Carle Noctem
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Lee,
I believe this would apply to all Celestron HD scopes, and doesn't matter if you use a Hyperstar or not. ?The secondary shouldn't be loose or turn. ?It will mess up your collimation and as Allister pointed out will affect scope performance. To tighten properly, you need to hold the exterior sleeve with the notch in it's proper position. ?Then tighten the interior baffle tube. ?If you go on the Starizona website and look at the instructions for their Hyperstar conversion kit, you will see similar parts and setup. It may be a little tricky, because you need to have the assembly concentric as well as tight. ?Dean said it might take several tries to get it right. If you have questions, it may be best to speak with Dean at Starizona. Don |
Thanks for the guidance, Don. I'll give the scope a check. Lee On Tue, Nov 3, 2015 at 3:36 PM, don@... [C14_EdgeHD] <C14_EdgeHD@...> wrote:
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Lee Gordon +1 (206) 200-9916 (c) +1 (206) 653-0019 (h) |
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThe lore on the old non-edge C14 was that the secondary mirror was hand-polished into a non-symmetric shape to correct small errors in the primary mirror and corrector plate, so that there was a rotational orientation to the secondary mirror, and the optics were a matched set. No idea if that would apply to the Edge scopes.-Charlie Lasnier On Nov 3, 2015, at 2:27 AM, C14_EdgeHD@... wrote:
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" the secondary mirror was hand-polished into a non-symmetric shape to correct..." Does anyone truly know?this for a fact? I doubt it.??That is an expensive operation requiring significant time of skilled optician. It would be easier and cheaper to toss a bad corrector, of which there?should be very few given the robust fabrication method. Non-spherical primaries should be?rare and easily intercepted prior to incorporation into the OTA because a spherical concave mirror?is easy to figure?and easy to test. Stan |
Gary Jarrette
Well if you read the white paper this is what it says:
If the combined optics set shows any slight residual under-or over-correction, zones, astigmatism, upturned or downturned edges, holes, or bulges, the optician marks the Foucault test shadow transitions on the secondary mirror, then removes the secondary mirror from the test fixture and translates these markings into a paper pattern. The pattern is pressed against a pitch polishing tool, and the optician applies corrective polishing to the secondary mirror¡ªas we show in Figure 11¡ªuntil the optical system as a whole displays a perfectly uniform illumination (no unwanted zones or shadows) under the double-pass Foucault test and smooth and straight fringes under the double pass Ronchi test. The in-focus Airy disk pattern is evaluated for roundness, a single uniform diffraction ring, and freedom from scattered light. In addition, the intra- and extra-focal diffraction pattern must display the same structure and central obscuration on both sides of focus, and it must appear round and uniform. To me it looks like there is some pretty precise polishing to specific areas. I don¡¯t think that they just make mirrors and if they are not perfect they just keep chucking them into a pile in the corner of the room. By the time they get to the testing stage there is already a good amount of time and money in each secondary. So yes I believe they test, polish out the deficiencies by hand, and test again. This hand polishing is done on the large telescope mirrors like the one in the Hubble and many other very large mirrors. It is common practice. I have read somewhere but cannot lay my hands on it that sometimes they just put a little lapping compound on their thumb and rub ever so lightly in very specific areas to bring a mirror into spec. I will check with Dean Ketelsen. He ran the mirror lab down at University of Arizona in Tucson but is retired. He still keeps his hand in though. He and I went down to the mirror lab one day after I brought down a custom pier I made for him and he walked out on one of the mirrors they were polishing, it was at least 50 feet in diameter. I am sure he can shed some light on the subject. No pun intended. I know they are not tossing many of these! I have been down to the lab twice but the latest was a private tour with Dean about 2 years ago. I brought down the pier to his house and he had to go check on a mirror that was being polished so he said ¡°let¡¯s go¡±. There was one mirror standing on edge that they were blasting out the cores after they casted it with high powered water jets. We walked out om a scaffold and the mirror was on edge it was 20 feet below me and another 20 feet above me. Gary Carpe Noctem From: C14_EdgeHD@... [mailto:C14_EdgeHD@...] Sent: Wednesday, November 4, 2015 8:22 AM To: C14_EdgeHD@... Subject: [C14_EdgeHD] Re: C14 Edge secondary " the secondary mirror was hand-polished into a non-symmetric shape to correct..." Does anyone truly know this for a fact? I doubt it. That is an expensive operation requiring significant time of skilled optician. It would be easier and cheaper to toss a bad corrector, of which there should be very few given the robust fabrication method. Non-spherical primaries should be rare and easily intercepted prior to incorporation into the OTA because a spherical concave mirror is easy to figure and easy to test. Stan |
" read the white paper " ?? link please "mirrors and if they are not perfect they just keep chucking them into a pile " They would be sent back to the fine grinding stage.? Much cheaper than hand figuring. That supports my contention that hand polishing is prohibitively expensive. "... He and I went down to the mirror lab one day? ..." I have also toured several optical labs; e.g. UCO at UCSC (Keck), Star Instruments (RCOS).? That is the source of my skepticism. Stan ? |