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I took the advice and did careful measurements. Ordered a 42" pier from ATS. Tried it out last weekend and it is the perfect height for me. This is using a C14 plus AP1200. Any higher and I would have

someone was asking me about whether or not I knew where they could get one of these. Well today there was one on astromart. Note this is for the smaller mounts. rdc #1

adds than Some I think Brian has some great advice there, Ken. I will be happy to photograph my setup with me standing it the picture for a size reference so you can take various measurements etc from

The C-14 is my dream scope. Well, my dreams may be coming true in a couple of month. I have the chance to buy an orange tube, fork mounted C-14. The optics are supposed to be good. At one time it had

Ron Wodaski suggested a method to clean up my background star field in my M82 shot, which was taken through my C14. I had a problem with the background not being flat fielded properly before.

No. I have not seen them. Wayne E. Gondella AFA Engineering Company Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

Ken, I suggest you draw a scale model, especially if you want to mount more than one scope - thats what I did and decided to drop the pier size for my ap900 to 32inch. This sits on jmi wheelie bars,

when Ken, you are in luck. I am 5'9.5" and have a C14/AP1200GTO and do imaging. I find the 48"pier I bought to be too tall for some applications. I bought the tall one originally because in the

Ken, 48" should not be too high. I thought the same thing. However, the scope will actually swing down into some positions where you are are practically sitting down on the ground. I have C14 on a G11

Take a look at the way Roland Christen designed the focuser mechanism for the 10" Mak Cass. Really really nice and very very stable. That, and a cooling fan, would be great additions to a C14. rdc

I have an AP1200 on order to use with the C14. What height pier should I use? The 48" standard seems like it would be too high when you add the 21" of the AP1200. I am 5'-8" and might have a problem

I should what you I bought it second hand. There is one on astromart now for about $7500 or so. The chip is the TK1024 chip which was made by Tektronix until they spun the CCD operation out to be a

Hi Wayne, Actually, I did not expect a good mirror lock to be a simple thing. However, that doesn't mean it shouldn't be done. Once the cost of the C14, guider,AP mount, camera, observatory and

that a system. I will check that. Is the fringe eyepieces? No not yet. What Nagler series usually 7,9 or higher depending on seeing. Further, there is little chance the primary could alignment

I should what you The Dream Machine I bought is one of the first ones made. I purchased it second hand for a fair price (there's one on Astromart right now that's in the right price range). FLI

My recent first light experience using the large format Dream Machine camera showed serious vignetting with the C14. I used an Optec TCF-S focuser attached directly to the back of the scope, followed

The enlarged view shows a really, REALLY nice image!! Kudos rdc! I should ask where you bought the camera, where one can get specs on it and what you paid for it? Also, I must point out that a CM1400

I recently acquired an FLI Dream Machine camera using the TK1024 array. Over the weekend I tried it out with my CM1400/AP1200GTO system. The first results:

The corrector is a very, very weak lens. It doesn't sound right that a small tweek in alignment would noticably alter the color of the system. Does color get worse and worse as you go further off

You won't like my answer: First, to state the obvious, the mirror thimble should have an extremely close tolerance to the central baffle. Only a thin film of grease can fit between. Those who complain