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Re: [C14] New scope owner soon
Joline and Alvin S.
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýFirst off-go MAPLELEAFS- NOW BACK TO THE 14- YOU
WILL BE AMAZED AT THE VIEWS ,ESPECIALLY SMALL? GALAXIES AND GLOBULARS.LOOK
AT M51, NGC 4565, NGC 891-YOULL SEE WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT. pRACTICE SET UP
SEVERAL TIMES DURING THE DAY AND WATCH WHEN LIFTING THE TUBE ONTO THE
MOUNT!!!!
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Re: [C14] Digest Number 109
W. Gondella
Ed,
You have me curious. I wonder if "C" has made minor changes or variations over the years? My C14 was purchased from Astronomics around 2/01, and when I screw and unscrew my lock-knobs, I do not feel any gap where the screw is free of the rear casting or mirror frame. In fact, it feels like one long continuous hole. The next time I have the chance, I will try to take a peek back there and also try threading a cap screw in there to see what happens and I will report my findings. Wishing you all dew free nights, Wayne E. Gondella AFA Engineering Company Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 23:11:39 -0700<snip> After that section passes completely through the rear cell it entersEd |
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New scope owner soon
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýMy apologies in
advance of receiving a new C14 this Friday as we all?know - it'l be cloudy
for the next 3 weeks minimum here in the Great Lakes - specifically the Toronto
area.
?
I know nothing of
using a SCT as I have been an ardent user of Newts and Refractors for a number
of years, so if any of you can share some of the common mistakes I can avoid, I
would very much appreciate it.? I will be mounting it on the Williams
Optics GT-ONE HD GOTO mount.? I have a telrad and Tele Vue Starbright
ordered with it.? Any suggestions on what else I may wish to get right
away.
?
Thanking all of you
in advance and wishing clear skies to all.
?
Jim
Anderson
Toronto,
Canada |
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Re: [C14] Digest Number 108
Ed Joganic
Wayne & Paul, I have to agree with you mostly. If you are using the
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correctly machined screw from Celestron, the threaded section is only 3/8" long. After that section passes completely through the rear cell it enters an open space just a little longer than 3/8" with the mirror full back. It is then free to enter the threaded hole in the aluminum mirror support without interference. No problem. However, if you substitute a fully threaded bolt then the bolt can only enter the mirror support if the support position is spaced from the cell by focus knob to an integer x .05" (20TPI) unless the structure bends. I don't know if they attempt to tap both holes simultaneously or not. With my mirror full back I cannot run a standard 1" x 1/4-20 bolt through both pieces unless I nudge the mirror forward ~ 1/2 turn of the focus knob. Perhaps yours line up in phase by chance or mine is out of phase by defect? I've only had my mirror out once a while ago and I recall copious orange "adhesive" around the back side of the mounting hole. You're right, "cement" doesn't really describe it correctly. Most of this structure is well documented in a series of photos in the files section for anyone that doesn't want to disassemble to get a look or is contemplating disassembly. Hope my comments were not too misleading - welcome the corrections. Ed ----- Original Message -----
From: "W. Gondella" <gondella@...>some defect in your ota. Please check with Celestron on this to confirm. Whytube. There is a silicone rubber caulk inside the hole to act as a cushioningof the threads on the holes tapped into the rear casting or focus thimble, as |
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Re: [C14] Digest Number 106
As I was going to a Star Party this week I had to pack my scope yesterday. ?I simply turned the focus knob in the correct position until the mirror came to a stop. ?Then I ?simply screwed in the retaining knobs until they were just snug. ?I did not have to do any further adjustments of any kind. ?Everything seemed fine, so I am going to have to agree with Wayne on this.
Paul Atkinson |
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Re: [C14] Digest Number 106
W. Gondella
Ed, this procedure you describe is totally unnecessary unless you have some
defect in your ota. Please check with Celestron on this to confirm. Why would you need to move the mirror and focus knob a little at a time as you screw in the locks? This implies you must do the reverse to disengage the mirror as well. Also, the mirror is not cemented. It is held by a large flange nut which threads over the mirror from the front of the baffle tube. There is a silicone rubber caulk inside the hole to act as a cushioning agent so as to protect from glass breakage (glass to metal contact). The mirror can be removed from the aluminum casting. Also, any screw of the right dimensions could be substituted for the miror lock screw as long as the thread is the same. Changing the screw would not affect the "phase" of the threads on the holes tapped into the rear casting or focus thimble, as these were tapped together, as I said before, as one contiguous thread. Wayne E. Gondella AFA Engineering Company Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 08:29:59 -0700focus knob (CW) until it just contacts the screws and start them into the mirorof the scope. You have to use the origional screws with a section of thethreads in the cell will likely be out of phase withe the back casting threads andall the way back. My screws are 1" long. |
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Re: [C14] Mirror Lock screws
W. Gondella
You need to focus the mirror completely backward (focus knob turned C.W.
till it stops). By screwing the mirror lock screws all the way in till they hit bottom on the rear casting of the scope, they are where they have to be to lock down the mirror. You usually do not feel anything (pretty impressive Celestron!) as the hole in the casting and the hole in the mirror focus frame are tapped for threads contiguously. Once in a while I feel a slight rub as the screw goes into the mirror frame. Do not forget to back out the screws after mounting the OTA and before touching the focuser. These screws should be unscrewed until the small threaded section at the end of the thin shaft begins to show in the hole. They should not and need not be removed from the scope, which is probably how the other fellow lost his and is now wanting to plug those holes. Wayne E. Gondella AFA Engineering Company Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 11:06:23 EDTor backward before screwing in the restraining knobs? Also, how will youknow they are where they need to be? Will you feel the screws hit the back ofthe mirror? |
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Re: [C14] Digest Number 106
Ed Joganic
Paul, You will need to move the mirror forward a little to insert the
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screws. Turn them them until the threaded section of the screw is fully through the back and spins freely. Then move the mirror back with the focus knob (CW) until it just contacts the screws and start them into the miror cell. Move the mirror a little at a time until the screws are full in and the mirror cell is fully back. The mirror is mounted (cemented) to an aluminum casting with taped holes that line up with the holes in the back of the scope. You have to use the origional screws with a section of the threads cut off near the head. A regular screw will not work as the threads in the cell will likely be out of phase withe the back casting threads and without the threadless section you will not be able to draw up the cell. You are exactly right. There is glass exposed at the bottom of the screw holes - the mirror - but the back surface is 2 1/4" down when the mirror all the way back. My screws are 1" long. Ed Joganic. ----- Original Message -----
From: paulatkinson22@...or backward before screwing in the restraining knobs? Also, how will youknow they are where they need to be? Will you feel the screws hit the back ofthe mirror? |
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Re: [C14] Mirror Lock screws
W. Gondella
Mark, those screws are not surperfluous. Yes, they are used for shipping,
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but also should be used anytime the OTA is handled. Unless that scope stays mounted 100% of the time, get replacements from Celestron. Without them, the full weight of that enormous mirror is held only by the focus worm on a machined tube full of slippery grease. Screwed in, those missing knobs screw right into the casting at the base of the primary and distribute the load of the primary evenly around the mirror thimble. Wayne E. Gondella AFA Engineering Company Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 19:56:28 -0000 |
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Re: [C14] Digest Number 104
Ed Joganic
There should be 2 holes and they are taped 1/4" - 20 TPI.
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Ed Joganic Mirror Lock screws
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Re: Mirror Lock screws
mbungart
Good idea, Thanks!
Mark In C14@y..., paulatkinson22@a... wrote: Mark,that you can snap into the holes. They are typically in the specialtyhardware section, come in all sizes, are cheap, and are used just for thesetypes of things. |
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Mirror Lock screws
mbungart
Hi,
My club has a C14 that is missing the 3 locking screws on the back. These are used to lock the mirror is place during shipping,etc. We'd like to plug these holes up with similar ( but shorter) screws to prevent insects from getting in the tube. Any know the screw size used? Thanks Mark |
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Re: [C14] Check out this credit card site
W. Gondella
Yes, well not all people have had problems with their credit, past or
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present. It's called fiscal responsibility. You don't spend what you can't afford to repay! BTW, what the hell does this have to do with C14s anyway? Wayne E. Gondella AFA Engineering Company Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 08:42:46 -0000 |
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CI-700/C14 Options
delproposto
I have been considering options of upgrading to Celestrons CM-1400 and
CM-1400 GT. I have noticed comments on couple of users groups regarding problems with the mount CI700 and 14 inch ota. Are the problems confined to early models? The Specifications for CM-1400 GT mount and CM1400 appear to be different? Worm gear..ect Has anyone used the CM-1400 GT, has it even shipped ? Best, Dan |
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Re: [C14] CI-700/C14 Options
Dan,
I know that Celestron has made some improvements on the CI mounts but I still do not believe it is good enough for a scope the size of the C14. ?When I was purchasing my C14 I spoke with a lot of people, including dealers. ?They said that at a minimum I would want at least a G11 as it was a beefier version of the CI that Losmandy makes. ?I am glad I did. ?I can say that visually the G11 works great. ?However, I can also say that the C14 with accessories is pushing the limit of the mount and in this configuration CCD might be tough. ?In fact a perfect setup would be at least an AP900 if I could afford it. ?I strongly encourage you to look around, ask people, and see for yourself. ?There would be nothing worse than buying the CI and then being unhappy with it and having to move up anyway. Paul Atkinson |
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Check out this credit card site
dnndd8iuh
Like most people, I've had some trouble with credit in the past. For
a long time I haven't been able to find a company that would give me a credit card at all. I found this site and I just had to share it with the rest of the group. It has all sorts of credit cards, some are guaranteed to be approved no matter what your credit history is like. Also, they have gold and platinum cards and offer free services for credit reports. You got to see this site. |
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Re: [C14] Interesting trade for C14 OTA
W. Gondella
Ya, I'd say. . . It's not every day you'll find someone who wants to trade
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even his 6" TMB APO for a 4" TMB (or other) APO. Worse, an AP traveler and a C14 are as different as hamburger vs. a hotdog. I'd never sell my C14, for it kills on deep sky, but it'll never show me what I saw of Jupiters moons last night in my 6" TMB! Wayne E. Gondella AFA Engineering Company Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania ----- Original Message -----
From: <C14@...> To: <C14@...> Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 3:55 AM Subject: [C14] Digest Number 100 Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 15:20:26 -0000 |
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