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It depends where you want the rigidity when machining. I usually work with smaller tools, lighter cuts so I lock the vertical knee movement to give the work rigidity, only using the dial for vertical

Hey Art , perhaps a big part of this for myself , is that I hardly EVER had a DRO on anything , starting from 1974 . Working on machines from research laboratories, Navy Bases and Ships, to job shops.

Glad that all is good now.

I put a scale on both the knee Z axis and the quill on mine which together with a little serial combiner (add or subtract) box from MachineDRO leaves me free to move whichever I like and maintain the

Hi all, I am looking for some guidance regarding DRO's for a Series 1 BP with 2J head.? For 3 axis DRO's what are the pros and cons of the third axis being on the the Z-axis (knee) or on the W-axis

Thanks George.? I duplicated your instruction and the quill is back to smooth operation.? The lubricant appeared to have polymerized or, at least, thoroughly dried out.? It took more than light

Hey JAMES , I would tend to believe that is the Color. I may have more to share in a bit. But I must caution in case you'd never seen , on the subject of *stripping* the PAINT on these Bridgeports.

Thank you Steve, I'll have a look at that.

Hi Marty, thank you for your reply, so you think Textron used the Blue Grey the American company used? It makes sense as I think I can see something like that in amongst all the flaky layers currently

Hey JAMES , well..... you asked for it , RIGHT !?! I guess these folks are on the right side of the pond for yourself ? I have , well okay..... long tired on the color discussions on mostly VINTAGE

I painted mine with Rust-Oleum? Professional High Performance Protective Enamel in Dark Machine Gray. It looks close to the original paint. Hope this helps

Hi All, Can anyone help? I am the proud new owner of a J head Textron era, British built Bridgeport Series 1 and I am doing a bit of refurb on the head. It's a 1985 machine, does anyone know the

Thanks Marty, I really appreciate the informative description of the "Flaking". Like I said before I observed some journeyman machine assemblers where I worked many years ago hand scraping the

That is a nice machine, it looks like it's possibly been repainted and as Marty said some recent enhancements. From what I have learnt the series 2 was larger and had box ways instead of dovetail

Sorry ,meant to include this shot. It is from DAPRA the company who makes BIAX. Of course they SHOW the Flaker , first ! ?

Don't know if the pic will make it through ? The NEW table as shown today , with the flaking showing on the WAYS and table Top , plus.... The BOAT ANCHOR !? The original multiple speed gearbox ,

Hey Mike , you've seen some videos I presume ? Yes ,I suppose a "SCALEY"? look is close enough! Doing it myself by hand on various things over the years ,It is a "BUMPING" the scraper with the palm

Excuse my ignorance but I am not familiar with the "flaking" thing. Is it the that scaly look? I have observed the process of hand scraping machine ways and thought maybe that was where that look came

Hey Mike , I refer mostly to the * FLAKING * , as others have also noted. Being done on the front surface of the saddle , where it is normally painted. I wonder just a bit , if the *Current* offerings

Welcome. Enjoy the mill. I feel a bit apprehensive any time I do some maintenance to my mill and it is not available on a moment's notice (and I'm just a hobbyist that occasionally does not use the