I have a M head on my Hardinge TM mill. ? I would like to put a quill DRO on the M Head and use the fine feed hand wheel.
If you have done this, could you please share your design (pictures, etc.) or provide a link for a kit?
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Re: Reverse Trip Ball Lever in Backward?
Michael,
Is it possible the feed reverse trip plunger was installed upside
down? Don't know how this would affect removal of the reverse trip
ball lever. Alas I have no further counsel other than penetrating
oil and patience.
Good luck. Keep us posted.
Dan
On 9/15/2023 5:47 AM, reflexermr via
groups.io wrote:
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Gents,
Thanks for the ongoing support and suggestions.
As yet I've had no success in removing the part.
When I move the quill screw the lever does show movement. That, to
me, indicates the part is in tact and not hindered by crusty
grease/oil. I didn't use penetrating oil but will give that a try.
I piloted a #43 hole into the shaft of a 5/16 - 24 hex screw to
use as a drill guide to tap for a 4-40 tap. The idea was to put
enough pressure with the screw to keep the part from spinning
while drilling. No swarf was generated. Either the part was
spinning or it's hardened.
According to H&W it's not a hardened part.
Expoy ---
At another point I cleaned and degreased the part and surrounding
area, cut a piece of thin aluminum to use as a thread protector so
as not to get any epoxy in the threads. I used a small ball
endmill to contour the socket end of a screw hoping to achieve
more surface area for the epoxy;
waited 24 hours and attempted to pull. No Go!
I haven't given up yet.
Thanks again for everyone's help,
Michael
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Re: Reverse Trip Ball Lever in Backward?
Gents,
Thanks for the ongoing support and suggestions.
As yet I've had no success in removing the part.
When I move the quill screw the lever does show movement. That, to me, indicates the part is in tact and not hindered by crusty grease/oil. I didn't use penetrating oil but will give that a try.
I piloted a #43 hole into the shaft of a 5/16 - 24 hex screw to use as a drill guide to tap for a 4-40 tap. The idea was to put enough pressure with the screw to keep the part from spinning while drilling. No swarf was generated. Either the part was spinning or it's hardened.
According to H&W it's not a hardened part.
Expoy ---
At another point I cleaned and degreased the part and surrounding area, cut a piece of thin aluminum to use as a thread protector so as not to get any epoxy in the threads. I used a small ball endmill to contour the socket end of a screw hoping to achieve more surface area for the epoxy;
waited 24 hours and attempted to pull. No Go!
I haven't given up yet.
Thanks again for everyone's help,
Michael
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Re: Reverse Trip Ball Lever in Backward?
I had honestly FORGOTTEN that I had to FIX this as well ,so long ago !? It was indeed BROKEN , and it seems like it FELL out .? Sorry to be of no real help on the issue at hand. I suppose my own mill was just a constant victim of ignorance and simple inattention.
Although I still believe much of the DAMAGE it ever received was done by it's proximity to FORKLIFTS !
Usually I would not give utilization of VACUUM even a millisecond of thought for removal ,but this is retrieving a sort of loose part. Not a screw or interference fit fastener.
I hope some luck falls your way here !
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Re: Reverse Trip Ball Lever in Backward?
good grief......that looks very, err, sad?
On 09/09/2023 16:04, Ron in AZ wrote:
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When I rebuilt my Bridgeport two years ago I had the same issue.?
After watching a half dozen videos o rebuilds and trying several
options, I finally sprayed penetrating into the hole every day for
a week to clear any greases.? Then tried the magnet, tweezers,
blowing air, finally settled on trying my vacuum pump for brakes.
Adapted a piece of tube to fit the hose and pulled down a vacuum
on the pin to hold it and pull out.
I wonder if mine pin is stuck again.
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Re: Reverse Trip Ball Lever in Backward?
When I rebuilt my Bridgeport two years ago I had the same issue.? After watching a half dozen videos o rebuilds and trying several options, I finally sprayed penetrating into the hole every day for a week to clear any greases.? Then tried the magnet, tweezers, blowing air, finally settled on trying my vacuum pump for brakes. Adapted a piece of tube to fit the hose and pulled down a vacuum on the pin to hold it and pull out. I wonder if mine pin is stuck again. 
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For Sale - BP M-head quill housing/belt housing unit complete and running
For Sale - Bridgeport M-head quill housing & belt housing units together, very clean, complete & running (motor is not for sale). Spindle is No. 7 B&S,?set of collets available to go with head. ?Quill housing and belt housing can be separated for easier packing/shipping. ?Located mid-Atlantic/Virginia for regional pick-up or delivery. ?shanksh(at)comcast(dot)net for info, pics, video, price.
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Re: Reverse Trip Ball Lever in Backward?
You could drill through the piston from above, right through the plunger.? That would be easy to replace and not damage the head casting either.? On my 2J2 head, the feed didn't work and everything was crapped up.? I had absolute hell getting the detent ball out of the worm/shifting shaft for forward/reverse feed.? But I eventually got everything apart through perseverance, WD40, penetrating oil, air, solvents, PB Blaster, strong magnets, etc.
On Wed, Sep 6, 2023 at 7:53?PM Dan Beeker < debeeker@...> wrote:
Michael,
Old oil/grease has likely solidified. Magnet won't work until
things are moving rather freely. Apply penetrating oil to the
reverse trip ball lever and pick on it occasionally. If the feed
reverse trip plunger doesn't move apply penetrating oil and pick
on it occasionally as well. They should eventually loosen up
unless the parts are bound up from being assembled backwards.
If all else fails one could edm the plunger and trip lever. Would
cost a little money but the cost will be much less than a new J
head.
As a last resort, if you have to resort to drilling/milling out
something I think I would drill/mill the plunger from the front of
the head. Don't think you can get to it from the top without
drilling through the housing. Drilling from the front, the plunger
won't spin on you. You'll end up drilling through the reverse trip
ball lever as well but it may be easier to remove in pieces
anyway. The hole left shouldn't have any effect on the operation.
Or you can plug it if it bothers you.
Dan
On 9/3/2023 6:27 AM, reflexermr via
wrote:
Hi Dan,
Good advice! Since it's still operational I'm in no rush.
I like your idea and will keep it in mind.
I did try the magnet technique but the part didn't even move a
little.
Michael
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Re: Reverse Trip Ball Lever in Backward?
Michael,
Old oil/grease has likely solidified. Magnet won't work until
things are moving rather freely. Apply penetrating oil to the
reverse trip ball lever and pick on it occasionally. If the feed
reverse trip plunger doesn't move apply penetrating oil and pick
on it occasionally as well. They should eventually loosen up
unless the parts are bound up from being assembled backwards.
If all else fails one could edm the plunger and trip lever. Would
cost a little money but the cost will be much less than a new J
head.
As a last resort, if you have to resort to drilling/milling out
something I think I would drill/mill the plunger from the front of
the head. Don't think you can get to it from the top without
drilling through the housing. Drilling from the front, the plunger
won't spin on you. You'll end up drilling through the reverse trip
ball lever as well but it may be easier to remove in pieces
anyway. The hole left shouldn't have any effect on the operation.
Or you can plug it if it bothers you.
Dan
On 9/3/2023 6:27 AM, reflexermr via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi Dan,
Good advice! Since it's still operational I'm in no rush.
I like your idea and will keep it in mind.
I did try the magnet technique but the part didn't even move a
little.
Michael
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Re: Reverse Trip Ball Lever in Backward?
Hi Dan,
Good advice! Since it's still operational I'm in no rush.
I like your idea and will keep it in mind.
I did try the magnet technique but the part didn't even move a little.
Michael
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Re: Reverse Trip Ball Lever in Backward?
Cliff,
Yep, that's the part.
I seems there is a better chance of getting the part free if it's broken. The part
in my machine is still in one piece, just installed backward.
Just spitballing here, not that I'd do it but I'm wondering if I were to drive the plunger the part may break making the removal easier.
Michael
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Re: Reverse Trip Ball Lever in Backward?
Is that This?
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Sep 2, 2023, 8:48 AM by reflexermr@...:
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I did a search for "reverse trip ball lever" and read all the messages.
Non addressed my issue.
I got my J head Series 1 BP about seven years ago. Outside of a few minor issues it's been working beautifully.
I made a micrometer quick nut and when I went to disassemble the quill screw I found that the reverse trip ball lever was installed
backward. The threaded end of the lever is not accessible.
I figure I could try to drill and tap the part although it may spin around. I am not sure if it's hardened.
Has anyone else had this happen? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Re: Reverse Trip Ball Lever in Backward?
I wouldn't even try to drill it. At best it will spin in the hole. At worst you will bugger up the trip lever leaving more crud in the hole.?
I just rebuilt a j head. Was my first and was a real learning experience. The trip lever was stick in its hole. Initially I couldn't move it at all. Wouldn't wiggle, wouldn't move. The screw was broken off so couldn't just grab it and pull it out. I flooded it with penetrating oil and occasionally blew the hole out with air to get the gunk out. Then flooded it with more oil. I poked at it with a dental pick until it started wiggling a little. It took a while - I picked at it in my spare time over a couple of days. Eventually was able to pop it out. Don't remember whether I popped it out with the dental pick or whether I used a small diameter cylindrical neodymium magnet.
From the pictures I do see there is a short cylindrical section before the ball on the unthreaded end. If you can get it to wiggle, perhaps you can grab onto it with a small pair of tweezers? Or maybe a piece of tygon/rubber tubing over the cylinder? If not perhaps you can drill out the end of a brass tube very slightly smaller than the cylinder's radius and pull it out? Or, if you can get the cylindrical end clean enough, use a very small epoxy to glue the brass rod (now drilled to be slightly larger than the cylindrical end) to the trip lever. But try everything else first. The last thing you need is to gum up the hole even more. Don't force anything. Patience in such cases has (almost) always worked for me. Brute force never works for me unless I just want to be done with something and take it to the scrap dealer.
Dan
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Show quoted text
On 9/2/2023 8:48 AM, reflexermr via groups.io wrote: reverse trip ball lever
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Reverse Trip Ball Lever in Backward?
I did a search for "reverse trip ball lever" and read all the messages.
Non addressed my issue.
I got my J head Series 1 BP about seven years ago. Outside of a few minor issues it's been working beautifully.
I made a micrometer quick nut and when I went to disassemble the quill screw I found that the reverse trip ball lever was installed
backward. The threaded end of the lever is not accessible.
I figure I could try to drill and tap the part although it may spin around. I am not sure if it's hardened.
Has anyone else had this happen? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Re: V2 XT head lubrication
Red drip??? I am guessing some one used an automotive? red wheel
bearing packing? grease like the Shell I use on my tractor.??? It?
drips red.
On 7/10/23 8:22 PM, Pathwizard wrote:
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I have a series 1 V2 XT that drips a bit of red oil, which seems
to be coming from the gear changer handle.? The manual says that
this head is lubricated for life and that? the back gears use
Sunoco 741 EP or Mobillux No 1 EP.? These seem to be a 90 weight
gear lub, not a red oil.? Maybe someone put ATF in the gearbox
before I got it?
My concern is that it may now be low on oil, as I've had this
machine around 3 years, and it drips a few drops every day.? Is
there a way to drain this oil or add new?
Thanks
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Re: V2 XT head lubrication
It's it possible someone put a red marine grease in the head? When grease gets old it separates.? George Wroclawski
Service Manager
McDaniel Machinery Inc.
On Mon, Jul 10, 2023, 7:22 PM Pathwizard < willg@...> wrote: I have a series 1 V2 XT that drips a bit of red oil, which seems to be coming from the gear changer handle.? The manual says that this head is lubricated for life and that? the back gears use Sunoco 741 EP or Mobillux No 1 EP.? These seem to be a 90 weight gear lub, not a red oil.? Maybe someone put ATF in the gearbox before I got it?
My concern is that it may now be low on oil, as I've had this machine around 3 years, and it drips a few drops every day.? Is there a way to drain this oil or add new?
Thanks
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I have a series 1 V2 XT that drips a bit of red oil, which seems to be coming from the gear changer handle.? The manual says that this head is lubricated for life and that? the back gears use Sunoco 741 EP or Mobillux No 1 EP.? These seem to be a 90 weight gear lub, not a red oil.? Maybe someone put ATF in the gearbox before I got it?
My concern is that it may now be low on oil, as I've had this machine around 3 years, and it drips a few drops every day.? Is there a way to drain this oil or add new?
Thanks
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Re: OT big lathe in Texas
I was in the Balt/DC area of MD and had to lower the price of my Cincinnati 17"x54" to $1000 to get a taker. It was between 3000 and 4000 lbs. That was about 4 yrs ago.
Good luck with the sale.
wm
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Re: OT big lathe in Texas
Yeah , at $3500 I have no doubt that ol' booger will SIT there and how about that Leadscrew shifter !
I saw it has that 4 jaw chuck but the spindle mount could be a variety of things in that era. It doesn't look like a typical LONG TAPER mount. Many younger guys may have never seen anything but Cam-Lock mounts for lathe chucks. ?
?With that motor adapter on the top , this machine is old enough to have been originally driven from a LINE SHAFT , indeed.....the remnants of the STEAM era.?
With Cast Iron at $210 a TON and steel at $225 ?
600 - 700 hundred bucks of scrap maybe , but I can't see anyone buying that lathe for even that price.
But it was why I bought my American Pacemaker , 20 years ago at One Thousand dollars. Cost me another grand to get it home !? 16-18 inch lathe with lots of JUNK and ¡ãChucks¡ã and faceplates in it's 100lb. chip pan.? Being one of the heavy lathes of the day ,it was something like 6800+ lbs on the truck scale.? The trailer wheel collapsed part of my driveway when backing it into my shop.
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Re: OT big lathe in Texas
Absolutely location matters.? In southern NM, you won't find much of anything without patience and luck.? I bought my 11" Sheldon and South Bend vertical mill from NMSU surplus property auctions after looking for years at the sparse listings.? Ironically, I bought my 8" Logan shaper from a guy who lives in Las Cruces years after I moved to San ANtonio.? He just happened to list it in the shapers group right before I was going back to visit parents for Thanksgiving.
Here in San Antonio, I bought my Series 1 2J2 from a place literally on the corner 1/8mi from my office.? It was sitting on their loading dock and I finally made the effort to call them.
OTOH, this is an 18" lathe, which are far less common than a 9-11" most of us have.
On Thu, May 25, 2023 at 5:46?AM aribert2 < aribert@...> wrote:
I guess it depends on where one lives, here in Metro Detroit it is unlikely to sell for more that its scrap value.? ? Even in a machine tool desert, $3500 seems quite high.
I asked seller for details.? ?Too big for my shop. Lodge and Shipley 18"
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Marty
Ron in AZ
Nick Andrews