Re: New Bridgeport Owner

#19867

As Mr. Wroclawski notes, this is a Series 1 machine, with 2Hp head. The head is clearly a "more recent" unit, with the slow/fast cover casting on the front. I have a Series 1 2J machine as well, but it has the earlier exposed dial on the front of the head. I notice your machine also appears to have only one X-axis table lock on the front, whereas the (again) "more recent" machines, say mid-1980's, are equipped with two X-axis lock screws on the front. I don't have a deep knowledge of when these transitions may have occurred at the Bridgeport factory, but my machine is dated around 1985, if I recall correctly, and does have two X-lock screws.

?

Your machine looks to be in pretty good shape. As far as the table flaking, it can be strictly an appearance thing, but if it's done reasonably well, it is also an aid in reducing friction for moving heavy tooling or workpieces around on the table. "Done reasonably well" in this case means that the table is still flat.;-)

?

As Marty notes, the Series 2 machines are much larger, and would either be outfitted with a 4HP head, or in the case of Series 2 Special, a 2 HP head like the one you have. There are files on this website that will give you info on machine dating vs. serial number when you get the machine. You can then (possibly) know if you have different vintages of head vs. machine base.

Re: New Bridgeport Owner

#19866

Looks pretty nice.? ?My 2J was quite a bit cheaper but neglected,? some things not working,? etc.?

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On Sun, Mar 9, 2025, 10:33?AM mikeirion via <mikeirion=[email protected]> wrote:

Thanks for the input George. The sales person I spoke with said it is 2 hp. I haven't heard it run yet because I haven't recieved it yet but I will let you know when I do.

Re: New Bridgeport Owner

#19865

Thanks for the input George. The sales person I spoke with said it is 2 hp. I haven't heard it run yet because I haven't recieved it yet but I will let you know when I do.

Re: New Bridgeport Owner

#19864

"It might have a couple..... "RECENT" , shall we say *Enhancements* ? "

?

Thanks Marty for the input. What might the enhancements you refer to be?

Re: New Bridgeport Owner

#19863

Series 1 with a 2J head and a Servo power feed.

The number on the top front of the knee will give you the year it was made.

Two questions. The horsepower of the head?

How does the head sound?

George Wroclawski
Service Manager
McDaniel Machinery Inc.?

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On Sat, Mar 8, 2025, 12:00?PM mikeirion via <mikeirion=[email protected]> wrote:

Hi All, I had the fortunate opportunity to be able to use the company machine shop equipment before retiring but now I really miss it. I just purchased a used Bridgeport mill from a company that buys and sells equipment in Connecticut and am not completely sure which model I have coming. Can you help me identify it and maybe comment on its visible condition. I think it is a 2J based on the Vari-Speed I can see. I can't tell if the tag on front says “Series 1” or “Series 2”. I am told it is 2 hp. It includes a new VFD, a new DRO, R8 collets, vise, hold downs, power feed and misc cutters. Paid $4500 plus $500 to ship to Michigan.

?

Re: New Bridgeport Owner

#19862

Well it appears you got a pretty decent machine.

It might have a couple..... "RECENT" , shall we say

*Enhancements* ?? ?To me , a "FLAKED Table" is

basically ridiculous. Done for appearances,

sake at best. For DISTRACTION and trying to hide

flaws in the worst case.

On the subject of a " SERIES 2 " , it really had multiple meanings anymore.? It often simply

means a * LATER? MODEL * 2J machine.

Your picture at first distracted me and put me in

A real SERIES 2 frame of mind ! ?

The LIGHT HOUSING laying over the table ,made

me think the KNEE was deeper ,like an ACTUAL

Series 2 !? Those machines had a bigger....well

everything .? The KNEE travel is 16 " compared to

12" and they had like 58" x 11" tables . The RAM

is longer and travels is about 4" inches more .

They usually had 4 hp motors. But for the?

Average User they are wickedly HEAVY ! They

are like 5000 pounds versus the 1900 or so most

Bridgeport Mills weigh.? They also had square

flat ways for support rather than the dovetails.

I believe they had a different drive for the QUILL ?

Something like a separate DC Motor unit ?

But your machine looks like the fairly typical unit,

with the Oiler on the side as expected.

It likely has SEALED BEARINGS as So many now

do. I think I see one hole where an OIL CUP

would have been on the head.?

Myself ...... I am USED to the "Droolers" ! ?

My 1956 Bridgeport is definitely the definition of

*Total Loss Oiling* , as it was designed to be.

? Speaking of which , it can't

hurt to see/verify that ALL the oil ports are flowing,also so the "HIDDEN PORT" in the table. Some mills have had a line added to the oil

system to lube the LIFTING gear the middle.

But there is a PIPE PLUG in one of the bolt slots

to handle that originally.

My own mill was wretchedly abused on the LUBRICATION front probably all it's life.? So by?

all means verify and keep that unit pristine !

It looks like you have quite a good start . ?

?

New Bridgeport Owner

#19861

Hi All, I had the fortunate opportunity to be able to use the company machine shop equipment before retiring but now I really miss it. I just purchased a used Bridgeport mill from a company that buys and sells equipment in Connecticut and am not completely sure which model I have coming. Can you help me identify it and maybe comment on its visible condition. I think it is a 2J based on the Vari-Speed I can see. I can't tell if the tag on front says “Series 1” or “Series 2”. I am told it is 2 hp. It includes a new VFD, a new DRO, R8 collets, vise, hold downs, power feed and misc cutters. Paid $4500 plus $500 to ship to Michigan.

?

Re: Quill Stuck

#19860

The quills and housings are honed and matched to each other for a very tight fit. I don’t think penetrant would make it in, nor would it flush anything out. Never tried it, though…

Re: Quill Stuck

#19859

I have a similar machine but never had the need to dismantle the head, ?I think Georges way is defiantly the best option but it may well be worth trying to introduce a release agent and allow plenty of time for it to penetrate, some days maybe and keep applying it. Also some heat with a hot air gun -- careful not too and damage the paint !

Worth a try maybe ?

John

Re: Quill Stuck

#19858

I recently was called to repair a Bridgeport with a similar issue. His quill was getting very difficult to move. I removed the belt housing and the back gear housing as a assembly. Then the cradle for the quill downfeed drive was removed. Finally the micrometer quill stop.

I turned the quill housing on its side and tapped the quill out. Inspected it all but found nothing wrong. Cleaned it all up. Put the quill back in and it floated in the housing superbly.

Reassembled and it was good to go. A couple of hours work.

George Wroclawski
Service Manager
McDaniel Machinery Inc.
Mobile : 1-205-937-2066

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On Mon, Feb 10, 2025, 4:18?PM Art Beck via <beck.art=[email protected]> wrote:

Hello,

?

I have a Bridgeport Series 1 mill which I purchased new in 1974? (#172.064).? I later swapped the head for a 2J (#39231).? It has been inactive and in climate controlled storage for the past 20 years.? I am retired now and am re-activating this hobby machine.? LPS rust preventative was effective but challenging to remove.? All appears to be functioning as intended with the exception of the quill.? The quill is stuck in the up position.? It is possible that the previous quill lubricant has dried out causing the problem. About ?” of quill is exposed and lubricant had turned to a varnish like coating which I removed by applying solvent.

?

I took out the quill clockspring to expose the pinion but that was not enough.? How should I proceed to resolve this?? Will removal of the motor and head expose the quill and rack and pinion such that some loosening solvent can be applied?

?

Any experience will be appreciated.? Many thanks,

?

Art

Quill Stuck

#19857

Hello,

?

I have a Bridgeport Series 1 mill which I purchased new in 1974? (#172.064).? I later swapped the head for a 2J (#39231).? It has been inactive and in climate controlled storage for the past 20 years.? I am retired now and am re-activating this hobby machine.? LPS rust preventative was effective but challenging to remove.? All appears to be functioning as intended with the exception of the quill.? The quill is stuck in the up position.? It is possible that the previous quill lubricant has dried out causing the problem. About ?” of quill is exposed and lubricant had turned to a varnish like coating which I removed by applying solvent.

?

I took out the quill clockspring to expose the pinion but that was not enough.? How should I proceed to resolve this?? Will removal of the motor and head expose the quill and rack and pinion such that some loosening solvent can be applied?

?

Any experience will be appreciated.? Many thanks,

?

Art

Re: Lagun Mill

#19856

I'd replace the bearings with sealed bearings if the right ones are made.

On Tuesday, June 11, 2024 at 05:27:13 PM PDT, twoconnguy <cep2@...> wrote:

Does it rattle when in low range (back gear engaged)? I bought a used J head for my old round ram, and the face splined parts that engage when in high range made a clattering noise. I replaced those parts and it’s now quiet.?

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On Jun 11, 2024, at 11:30?AM, Rod Miller <rod@...> wrote:

?I'm the second owner of a lightly used Lagun FT-1 mill. I am continuing the original owner's business of making scale models so the mill is used on the average about an hour a week mostly cutting brass. This question may be appropriate for this group because I have heard that the head/spindle are compatible with the Bridgeport.

I'm noticing a rattling sound when the spindle is down and locked. The noise doesn't occur if the spindle is down and not locked and when the spindle is up. The bottoms and sides of cuts are smooth to the eye if that indicates anything. Is this something to live with until it worsens or should it be fixed now?

Lastly, the previous owner lubricated the spindle (two small reservoirs at the top) with 30 weight motor oil which I've continued. I bought some spindle oil but am nervous that changing the lubricant after all this time might not be a good idea. Please advise.

Re: Lagun Mill

#19855

开云体育

Does it rattle when in low range (back gear engaged)? I bought a used J head for my old round ram, and the face splined parts that engage when in high range made a clattering noise. I replaced those parts and it’s now quiet.?

Show quoted text

On Jun 11, 2024, at 11:30?AM, Rod Miller <rod@...> wrote:

?I'm the second owner of a lightly used Lagun FT-1 mill. I am continuing the original owner's business of making scale models so the mill is used on the average about an hour a week mostly cutting brass. This question may be appropriate for this group because I have heard that the head/spindle are compatible with the Bridgeport.

I'm noticing a rattling sound when the spindle is down and locked. The noise doesn't occur if the spindle is down and not locked and when the spindle is up. The bottoms and sides of cuts are smooth to the eye if that indicates anything. Is this something to live with until it worsens or should it be fixed now?

Lastly, the previous owner lubricated the spindle (two small reservoirs at the top) with 30 weight motor oil which I've continued. I bought some spindle oil but am nervous that changing the lubricant after all this time might not be a good idea. Please advise.

Lagun Mill

#19854

I'm the second owner of a lightly used Lagun FT-1 mill. I am continuing the original owner's business of making scale models so the mill is used on the average about an hour a week mostly cutting brass. This question may be appropriate for this group because I have heard that the head/spindle are compatible with the Bridgeport.

I'm noticing a rattling sound when the spindle is down and locked. The noise doesn't occur if the spindle is down and not locked and when the spindle is up. The bottoms and sides of cuts are smooth to the eye if that indicates anything. Is this something to live with until it worsens or should it be fixed now?

Lastly, the previous owner lubricated the spindle (two small reservoirs at the top) with 30 weight motor oil which I've continued. I bought some spindle oil but am nervous that changing the lubricant after all this time might not be a good idea. Please advise.

Re: BP elevating shaft pinion gear not going in far enough

#19853

Mine does not have a nut on the end you can adjust the backlash by loosening off a grubscrew that tightens on the keyway

?

BP elevating shaft pinion gear not going in far enough

#19852

This shouldn't be so hard to figure out. Pulled everything apart only replaced the 2 bearings,? replaced with the exact same gears. When I install the shaft assembly and tighten up part #88 (dial holder)? it snugs up the bearing to the shoulder in the elevating shaft and pulls the whole assembly out away from the elevating screw gear

. Before I start screwing around with spacers I'm hoping for some insight from the experts. I measured how far out it is from being engaged with a bit of backlash and it's about .250. I had a new set of gears so I replaced them but no difference.