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I guess it depends on where one lives, here in Metro Detroit it is unlikely to sell for more that its scrap value. Even in a machine tool desert, $3500 seems quite high.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/770078051088911/?mibextid=dXMIcH I asked seller for details. Too big for my shop. Lodge and Shipley 18"

Well after taking in all this feedback, I think I'll let this sleeping dog lie...for now...until that time when I'm in a pause between projects and have a month to tend my shop improvements list, and

The bull gear grease lubrication on the 2j head is for life. The grease that is packed in there when it is built doesn't evaporate, doesn't leak out, doesn't burn up and as has been shown the grease

Like modern vehicle transmissions? Seriously. Funny story. I bought a glowing skull plasma display on ebay sold as working. It was shipped in original box and foam but didn't work when I got it. This

You see that type of comment on mechanical stuff a lot? these days- my response is "okay, and how much longer would that life be if you had provided the means to lubricate it?" The other one I like

The placard on my 2J VS head says the “back gears are lubed for the life of the drive” I agree there should be a way to lube the gears especially if they get as crudged up as the op’s photos.

No, no grease fitting at all, not even a screw port, for the bull gear compartment. When you look at the rebuild manuals or even watch the H&W youtube videos it states that this is meant to be good

My mid 80s 2j has a set screw in place of where the zerk fitting is on this older (picture below) The head placard says lubricated for life do not grease instead of providing info on what grease to

Responding to Marty, unfortunately my head has no oil cups or other ports into the bull gear housing…the two cups I have are below that level, as is the grease port on the left side. All are two low

Oh, yeah! Mine is a little quieter than before (maybe), but now the power feeds work, everything is much, much smoother, and oh yeah the new clock spring makes a huge difference over the broken one.

Mine in a cnc head so the motor is under the upper housing and doesn’t need to come all the way off to do this. I suppose that does make it a bit easier.

Guess I didn't get pictures with the cover off or packed with fresh grease... wrote:

The one thing I didn't replace but wish I had are the brake shoes... daniel@...> wrote:

2 hours, really? I...have doubts on that. I completely rebuilt mine and it might take 2 hours just to disassemble it, especially if the housings still have the original pins between top and bottom.

Daniel , I don't think these things were *GREASED* originally. Some possible differences in some later models having some SEALED bearings ?I But the higher - OIL CUP -? is supposed to lube the back

Whoa!? Every cell in my body just smiled in recognition of truth being spoken. Once i have it that far I wonder how much further to take it...what parts are easy and obvious to replace? BTW, are

I have a mid 80s vintage 2J. It’s pretty noisy but it could be that my dry walled garage really amplifies the sound and I am usually machining things with the door closed. I rebuilt the head and

I have a late 80's 2HP 2J mill in my home shop.? The mill is in excellent shape with signs of light use.? The head is pretty quiet, no need for a rebuild, but I've been getting this lil niggling

Where do you guys find the best deals on bulk fasteners? Sometimes we find a good price at Home Repot or Lowes for 25# containers of deck screws, but we've been using a lot of the Timberlok and