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uBitxV6 -by transmitting resets-


 

Ted,
Side note on display current:
I also suspect you are correct here Ted, with the display backlight being the main unnecessary power hog.? The display module was designed to run at 3.3V, not 5V.? ?My kludge was to run both the display and Nano at 3.3V (Nano is out of spec at 16 MHz).? Regulator's heat sink is now at 44C at 24C ambient, and the current draw in RX for the whole uBITX is 0.20A at 13.70V input. Reduced from 0.32A.? (37.5% reduction, 47% change). ?I did not isolate the Nano's portion to that current reduction.? I was hunting for birdies, not looking for ways to reduce power.
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My approach to reduce power would be to run the display at 3.3V using the onboard regulator and level shift the SPI bus to be compatible with the Nano.? And/ Or play with display's LEDK (Cathode) voltage level (may be a way to add a current limiting resistor at the NPN backlight switch on the display board)? ?If I were running my uBITX from a battery, I would add a switch between R1 and +5V on the Raduino-TFT to turn off the backlight when I didn't need it.?
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If anyone is interested in this, here are some references
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Regards,
Gary
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On Wed, Feb 12, 2025 at 06:47 AM, Ted Spencer wrote:

I suspect (but did not bother rigorously verifying) that the (high current) culprit was the display backlight.


Ted Spencer
 

"Playing around” (those of us who used to get paid for such frivolity always called it research or some such) is wonderful: never stop!

The display backlight isn’t quite ‘unnecessary': without it, you’re shut down or flying blind, I suspect.

The math is fairly easy. If the Raduino takes 200 mA (say), that regulator is dissipating, with 13 VDC input, (13-5) * 0.2 =1.6 watts. If you put in a moderately efficient switching regulator - say 80% - it’s delivering 1 Watt at 5 V and consuming 1 watt/0.8 =1.25 watts input. Note that the switcher is dissipating 0.25 watts, as opposed to 1.6 watts with the 7805. These little switchers (built around a 34063 or its more efficient brethren) are wonderful things for cool-offs and battery life. That's why we see them everywhere.

Note that this approach leaves the Nano (16 MHz problem gone) and the display (brightness problem gone) both running at 5 V, while saving 1.25 watts. It’s almost like getting something for nothing, but we’re wise enough to know that that will never happen.

On a completely different front of the same battle, stuff I’ve designed over the years, if battery operated, dimmed or extinguished the backlight 10 seconds (or whatever) after the last user input, and lit it up again at any sort of a user touch. Many of those devices were fairly exotic things (laser/GPS surveying equipment, generally), yet the greatest current hog in the whole shebang was the display backlight. This seemed a cosmic injustice to me. But there it is. And I’ll bet we could do it with the Raduino, although, on a cursory glance, I don’t see a separate backlight input to it on the Raduino schematic. Does such a thing exist on that display?

t

On Feb 14, 2025, at 6:45?PM, Gary Anderson via groups.io <gary.ag5tx@...> wrote:

Ted,
Side note on display current:
I also suspect you are correct here Ted, with the display backlight being the main unnecessary power hog. The display module was designed to run at 3.3V, not 5V. My kludge was to run both the display and Nano at 3.3V (Nano is out of spec at 16 MHz). Regulator's heat sink is now at 44C at 24C ambient, and the current draw in RX for the whole uBITX is 0.20A at 13.70V input. Reduced from 0.32A. (37.5% reduction, 47% change). I did not isolate the Nano's portion to that current reduction. I was hunting for birdies, not looking for ways to reduce power.
My approach to reduce power would be to run the display at 3.3V using the onboard regulator and level shift the SPI bus to be compatible with the Nano. And/ Or play with display's LEDK (Cathode) voltage level (may be a way to add a current limiting resistor at the NPN backlight switch on the display board) If I were running my uBITX from a battery, I would add a switch between R1 and +5V on the Raduino-TFT to turn off the backlight when I didn't need it.
If anyone is interested in this, here are some references

/g/BITX20/message/92588
Regards,
Gary


 

Ted,
I was hunting birdies, not looking for ways to reduce power.? I was just sharing the power outcomes from what I did during a bird hunt, and also called my voltage dropping on the Nano a kludge. That was not my recommendation as the path forward to reduce power.
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Agree that a switcher would be more power efficient. ?We already have three oscillators and now add a fourth?? Even as such, the LED backlight will consume more power when still biased at 5V (and to a lesser degree the ILI9341). That's what I meant by unnecessary.? I was not clear.? Better stated as? It's very wasteful to bias the backlight at 5V, when it is designed to work at 3V.? If going down the added efficiency of a switcher, you'd also not use the 3.3V regulator on the display board and supply your own 3.3V.?
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The challenge/issue with the Raduino's Nano is code space to add microcontroller control of display backlight.? ?The backlight On/Off as well as display brightness can be controlled via SPI.? Educated guess that brightness is done with PWM.? This would save power (especially with 5V applied) but a high potential to add more noise,? the opposite path I was going down at the time.
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When you looked at the Raduino-TFT schematic, you should have seen the backlight control hard wired.? I stated "switch between R1 and +5V on the Raduino-TFT to turn off the backlight"? and provided a link to the website for the display information so you can see the backlight control.?
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Regards,
Gary


 

The original post in this thread did not say which uBitxV6 display is being utilized. So, I suppose it is the factory display.
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But since the conversation has moved to dimming or blanking the display to save battery and reduce birdies, it should be noted that the KD8CEC Nextion display software includes these functions, under the LCD button. Sliders set (A) the current display backlight level, (B) the stored (default) display backlight level. Buttons select a period of time (eg., 3 min., 10 min.) before the "screen saver" (screen blanked) goes into effect. When screen is blanked, touching the screen, or rotating the frequency knob restores screen backlighting.
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Some users have noted that the Nextion display produces its own birdies. But these disappear when the screen goes dark.
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DaveW, KL7HJF


Ted Spencer
 

On Feb 15, 2025, at 11:10?AM, Gary Anderson via groups.io <gary.ag5tx@...> wrote:

Ted,
I was hunting birdies, not looking for ways to reduce power.
Above all, I’m sorry if my silly comments seemed like a rebuke to you: nothing was farther from my intention. I’d hoped for nothing more than the innocent tossing of ideas back and forth!

Sadly, I’m at sea with ‘birdies’… Is that a spurious RF signal (as I suspect) or something else?

I was just sharing the power outcomes from what I did during a bird hunt, and also called my voltage dropping on the Nano a kludge. That was not my recommendation as the path forward to reduce power. Agree that a switcher would be more power efficient. We already have three oscillators and now add a fourth? Even as such, the LED backlight will consume more power when still biased at 5V (and to a lesser degree the ILI9341). That's what I meant by unnecessary. I was not clear. Better stated as It's very wasteful to bias the backlight at 5V, when it is designed to work at 3V.
Quite so! Back before the snow got really deep, I had the thing outside and (as with most such devices) the display isn’t as readable as it is inside. Maybe it needs all that backlight for a POTA-like activation?

If going down the added efficiency of a switcher, you'd also not use the 3.3V regulator on the display board and supply your own 3.3V.
The challenge/issue with the Raduino's Nano is code space to add microcontroller control of display backlight. The backlight On/Off as well as display brightness can be controlled via SPI. Educated guess that brightness is done with PWM. This would save power (especially with 5V applied) but a high potential to add more noise, the opposite path I was going down at the time.
When you looked at the Raduino-TFT schematic, you should have seen the backlight control hard wired. I stated "switch between R1 and +5V on the Raduino-TFT to turn off the backlight" and provided a link to the website for the display information so you can see the backlight control.
Thank you for that tidbit: I’d not looked at the display’s connections (from the display side), and didn’t realize that R1 on the Raduino was the bullseye. Nor did I realize that there’s a 3V regulator on the display.

There is a bewildering variety of requirements (low noise, low power, bright (or, more properly, readable) display), and an even more bewildering array of potential solutions. Whether my switcher significantly adds to the chirps and whistles in my room full of computers and test equipment, I really can’t say. No doubt it does, but there are so many to steer around now that I didn’t get annoyed by any new ones.

In a very recent post, DaveW, KL7HJF has mentioned that many of these display power foibles have been addressed!

Again, I’m very sorry if my blather was offensive.

t


Regards,
Gary


 

Hello, Pieter.
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I'm new to this discussion but not new to the MicroBITX.? I run a version 5 radio on a 16v internal battery bank - two sets of four, with a battery-management board in place.? This yields over 15 watts output on 40m CW, around 10w on 20m & 15m, and about 5w on 12/10m.
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I gather from commentary so far, that your 7805 is overheating from having to regulate down from 13.8 (down to 5v).? I don't have that problem and it may simply be that I have a heat sink on that regulator but I also have (what I believe is) a 10-ohm resistor in line with the B+ supply to the 7805. Thus, the ideas presented above to add diodes to the input of this regulator has merit. Dropping about 0.6v X 3 might help your regulator work less than it done at present.? As diodes are fairly cheap, use 4 if you like, even 5.?
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I've got a few of the and have yet to substitute one for the 7805 - though I've experimented for the radio supply itself and noticed no added RF noise.?
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72,
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Ted
K3RTA
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I've been shouted down about using diodes in this way on other forums, but I still thing it is an easy solution to a potential problem, and it has the added advantage of preventing reverse polarity accidents in some situations.

Gordon and Ted are right; inline diodes do not produce noise unlike some other regulators. They are also ham-price-friendly AKA CHEAP! Daisy chain 5 and you are placing ~10-11 volts instead of 13.8 on the front end of that 7805, so it only has to deal with 60-70% (math done in my head) of the heat dissipation for a given current.

73 de Lee KX4TT


On Tuesday, March 4, 2025 at 12:17:08 PM EST, Ted via groups.io <k3rta@...> wrote:


Hello, Pieter.
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I gather from commentary so far, that your 7805 is overheating from having to regulate down from 13.8 (down to 5v).? I don't have that problem and it may simply be that I have a heat sink on that regulator but I also have (what I believe is) a 10-ohm resistor in line with the B+ supply to the 7805. Thus, the ideas presented above to add diodes to the input of this regulator has merit. Dropping about 0.6v X 3 might help your regulator work less than it done at present.? As diodes are fairly cheap, use 4 if you like, even 5.?
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I've got a few of the other form of voltage regulators and have yet to substitute one for the 7805 - though I've experimented for the radio supply itself and noticed no added RF noise.?
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72,
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Ted
K3RTA
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Hi Ted,
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One thing to remember is the difference in display current requirements.? The V6 is a touch screen with graphics capability, while the V5 is a 16x2 text display.?
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Also, note that the v6 Raduino already has a heatsink on it.
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I would be careful with the 10-ohm resistor.? If you use that on a v6, you may drop below the minimum input voltage for the 7805 (approx 7 volts).? This will depend on the supplied voltage.? Assume a 10-ohm resistor will drop the voltage by 10 volts at peak load.? A better value for 14 volts would be a 6 or 7-ohm resistor.? The resistor should have a 10-watt rating.? A more reasonable choice would be a 5-watt 5-ohm resistor or five 1-amp diodes.
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73
Evan
AC9TU


 

The radio above (prior post and profile pic) is a Version 5 but has a Nextion 2.5" screen.? I just tested it as it happens to be opened up. The supply is at 15.8V going into this resistor and and the voltage out to the 7805 is about 13.6.? Now, that's where Pieter's trouble BEGINS, but if he were to employ this trick, he may be OK.? I agree that 5ohms would be a safer bet since he's not runnning his radio on steroids. ?
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But - the diode string works, nobody will see it, and there's nothing destructive about this.? Thus, I'd agree that 5 diodes of at least 1A ought to do the job.
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Also, for what it's worth, I'm using to drop the radio back to 12.2 volts, for true QRP levels below 15 meters. No noise at all witnessed when this is switched it and I'm considering adding a second one to replace the whole 7805 deal.? If this happens, I'll report back on the noise again.
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72,
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Ted
K3RTA
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I tried one of the voltage converter/regulators posted earlier. Not a speck of noise.? It's staying.?
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