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I cut the hole out in my box for the screen to fit through. Those holes are REALLY small at the four corners. Should I just caulk the LCD into place or glue it?

You can just place the LCD to the hole you cut and mark the screws with a marker or pencil and use a small drill bit or punch but depends on your case material.

I hot glued mine.?

On Sun, Dec 10, 2017 at 05:15 pm, Doug W wrote:

I hot glued mine.?

I was worried hot glue might somehow break it down. That settles it. I'm hot gluing that sucker.

I used one of the plastic cases from Bangood and cut the opening for the display with a?
coping saw. I made it just a little bit small for the display. I was then able to enlarge and even it out
using an exacto knife and sandpaper/file so that it was just big enough to friction-fit the display.
I didn't bother to use screws or any sort of glue.?

Michael VE3WMB?

Same here. Just a push fit .No screws .
Also , I cut a small palstic vinyl sticker window and used it as a bezel.I am happy eith that arrangement.

David :

The switch controls ?a SotaBeams DSP audio filter module. I have the General Purpose one installed
which has a 2.4 Khz SSB filter (WIDE) and a 300 Hz CW filter (Narrow). The switch is actually
a three pole switch so the top position bypasses the filter. These little modules work amazingly
well and only draw about 30ma of current. I have another one on order for my uBITX.

Here is a link for more info :

https://www.sotabeams.co.uk/dual-bandwidth-filter-modules-ssb-cw/

Cheers

Michael VE3WMB?

Excellent job on that front panel Michael. My friend has the same enclosure. Two questions - 1) - how did you get the lettering on the panel, and, 2) - can the lettering be in white? My bitx40 box is clear and smoked plexiglass.
Thanks Tom VE3THR?

Yes. I would also like to know how you put the lettering on the plastic panel Michael Babineau .

Google "clear printable sticker paper."

Tom et al :?

The decals for my BITX40 were done using Ink-Jet Waterslide Decal paper.?
The end result is similar to decals that we all probably remember putting on plastic
model kits as kids.?

I do this for all of my projects and I found that the cheapest way to do this is to buy the paper
on eBay from China. What you want is the stuff with the clear (transparent backing) that comes in A4 sizing. There are sources for this stuff in letter size from the US but costs to ship to destinations outside of the US?is expensive. Every ink-jet printer sold in North American can handle A4 sized paper so it doesn't matter.?

The procedure is pretty simple. You use your favourite graphic/text editor to create and print a sheet of decals (you want some extras for each decal in case one rips during installation). After printing I recommend letting the ink dry for at least 12 hours. The sheet then gets a?couple of coats of clear Krylon spray to fix it?(remember ink-jet ink is water-soluble) and is allowed to completely dry overnight.?
I also spray the panels that the decals will be installed on with a thin coat of clear Krylon as it gives?
a better result and makes it less likely that you will tear a decal during installation. Everything has to
be very dry before you attempt to install the decals.?

The installation procedure simply involves cutting out the decals and immersing them individually in
a small bowl of warm water for about 20 seconds. Remove the decal from the water with tweezers and then ?then slide off of the paper backing onto?the panel with the help of a tooth-pick,
which can be used to position it.

You then carefully blot out the excess water & air bubbles with a tiny piece of paper towel. ?Repeat for all of the decals and then set it aside to thoroughly dry overnight. Once it is very dry you want to spray a couple of very thin coats of clear Krylon?over the top to keep the decals in place.

You can print in whatever colours your inkjet printer will support, which unfortunately normally doesn't
include white. ?
I usually do several prints on plain paper, cutting out the paper decals and?
moving them around on the drilled front and rear panels to get an idea of placement and making
sure I am happy with the fonts and sizing. The last print is on the actual decal paper, but only
once I am satisfied. As I mentioned previously since you have to print a full sheet of decals anyway
it is a good idea to replicate individual decals a few times on the sheet so you have spares
in case one gets torn during installation. ?

Cheers?

Michael VE3WMB?

P.S. You can get Waterslide Decal Paper with white backing instead of transparent.?
This would work on a smoked plexiglass enclosure, however the end result will look like?
stickers because of the white backing, which will be visible.?

I forgot to add that there is one additional step the can be added if you want a very professional-looking result for your water-slide decals. ?After the decals have been installed and before you?
put the clear Krylon coat over the top, you can apply a product to the decals that softens the
decal backing material. I am not sure exactly what it is called but it is available at hobby shops.

What this does is to pretty much eliminate any visible "seam" at the
edge of where you cut out the decal. Once this has dried and has been fixed with clear Krylon
the end result is very close to what you would get if the lettering was printed onto the panel?
via a silkscreening procedure.?

Cheers

Michael VE3WMB?

One of the biggest advantages of using Water-slide decals over some sort of label-maker
is that you can print whatever graphics you want, whereas label-makers are limited
in the choice of fonts and generally only print text. ?Here are some photos of another (non Bitx)
project that I recently completed. It is a W8TEE (et al) Modular Transceiver from the?
March 2016 QST article. I opted to use simple graphics instead of text labels, for a change,
to keep the front and rear panels clean-looking.

Note that the light angle was bad for these photos and the backing on the decals
appears much more visible in the photos than it really is in normal viewing
(it looks much better in real life than in these photos).?

Cheers

Michael VE3WMB?

P.S. Before anyone asks ... the red Chinese characters on the front panel are the number 49.
This is a tribute to the use of the rockbound Chinese Forty-9er DC 40m Rig (available on
eBay for $9) that this project is built around. ?I like to make up a logo for my home-built rigs.?

Those look very nice!? Thank you for sharing about the decal edge spray!

Thanks for the info.Something new for me to try.

Michael and all, the product that softens the decal, to make it "snug
down" to the surface, is called "Solvaset". Available in hobby shops
and, I suspect, at Michaels stores.-- Rich WB2GXM

--
Dan Reynolds -- KB9JLO
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