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thank you :)
Long leads are trouble.
Also its more like you have a poor ground on the chassis or otherwise know as a ground loop.
To that end make sure all of your grounds are to a single common point.
Allison
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Thank you
I will try to follow your advice! If you refer to the transistor mounted alongside the raduino, it heats up a lot !!!
Now I have made a new discovery! He receives nothing! Whether with an antenna or without changing anything! :(
Now I will try to check all the welds on both boards.
What I do not understand is that they must provide me with a working product! If I want to improve it then it's my thing! They say that every card is numbered and tested! But mine ???
Acknowledged, Raj.
The regularity of the ticking points to the processor loop due to the old library. Upgrade to latest (CEC?) firmware fixes that.
My point, however, is the vulnerability of the audio circuits. The LM IC of the Bitx-40 was vulnerable to instability (not always evident) as the 'in' pin got taken to ground by the volume control wiper, and that 'bottom-end' increase here indicates that same
vulnerability. I venture the increase at higher volumes is likely 'bleed-through' from the unused channel - its 'in' pin has a low resistance to ground, and it could well be constantly 'ticking', not evident until the 'used' channel's input sees higher impedance/resistance
of the pot.
Better regulation/filtering of the Raduino's power improved much in the Bitx-40- this 'ticking' (as frequency was changed), and overall stability. How hot is your 7405 regulator, SaMa photo SaMa photo? Mine got quite hot, dropping 5V (12V less the 5V out and
2V 'overhead' for effective regulation), so quite possibly running near its limits. Dropping that input voltage to about 8V with a resistor (a scrapped 51-ohm 3-watt did that nicely) gave the opportunity to better filter its input with a good hefty capacitor
(I had a scrapped 1000uF to hand, 200uF didn't quite 'cut the mustard'), meaning any 'impulse' from the Raduino (the si5351) had less chance of getting through to the main board's supply.
I'd seen reports of distorted audio at low levels, too, and that was cured with the vulnerability/instability by the resistor to the 'in' pin. Now, if the TDA chip has a similar input circuitry it may well have that same vulnerability - on both channels! QED.
Hope the convoluted logic makes some sense ...
73
Dex, ZL2DEX
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Sergio,
In many bitx40 there has been bad solder in L1, L2 or L3. Please check with multimeter and resolder if required.
In some the TRIFILAR transformer also have solder problem and some winding shorts. Check everything fully.
If you have an extra receiver in the shack, please listen 4.7-5.0 Mhz .. Dial bitx40 7.000 = 5.000 mhz on rx and bitx 7.1000 = 4.900 mhz on rx.
You should hear carrier in your extra receiver. This is with original software.
Raj
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
At 19/04/2018, you wrote: Thank you, you're so kind
Now I will try to do what you suggested and visually check all the solderings on the cards. Unfortunately I do not have an oscilloscope
I confirm that he receives nothing! Turning the tuning potentiometer, the QRM increases in two places. If I stop on one of these points and unplug the antenna, nothing changes! As if the antenna was not connected
Thank you
Sergio
|
Thank you, you're so kind
Now I will try to do what you suggested and visually check all the solderings on the cards. Unfortunately I do not have an oscilloscope
I confirm that he receives nothing! Turning the tuning potentiometer, the QRM increases in two places. If I stop on one of these points and unplug the antenna, nothing changes! As if the antenna was not connected
Thank you
Sergio
Sergio, if I understand you correctly? that your not receiving any signals with an antenna connected then it is possible that one or all of the oscillator signals might be missing.
If you have an oscilloscope you can check pins 3, 6, and 9 for signals these are the SI5351 clock outputs. I would also check over the Raduino board with a magnifying glass that all the solder connections are good.
I am not sure what test equipment you have there to help troubleshoot your problem, but I hope this helps you somewhat.
Skip NC9O
|
Long leads are trouble.
Also its more like you have a poor ground on the chassis or otherwise know as a ground loop.
To that end make sure all of your grounds are to a single common point.
Allison
|
Acknowledged, Raj.
The regularity of the ticking points to the processor loop due to the old library. Upgrade to latest (CEC?) firmware fixes that.
My point, however, is the vulnerability of the audio circuits. The LM IC of the Bitx-40 was vulnerable to instability (not always evident) as the 'in' pin got taken to ground by the volume control wiper, and that 'bottom-end' increase here indicates that same vulnerability. I venture the increase at higher volumes is likely 'bleed-through' from the unused channel - its 'in' pin has a low resistance to ground, and it could well be constantly 'ticking', not evident until the 'used' channel's input sees higher impedance/resistance of the pot.
Better regulation/filtering of the Raduino's power improved much in the Bitx-40- this 'ticking' (as frequency was changed), and overall stability. How hot is your 7405 regulator, SaMa photo SaMa photo? Mine got quite hot, dropping 5V (12V less the 5V out and 2V 'overhead' for effective regulation), so quite possibly running near its limits. Dropping that input voltage to about 8V with a resistor (a scrapped 51-ohm 3-watt did that nicely) gave the opportunity to better filter its input with a good hefty capacitor (I had a scrapped 1000uF to hand, 200uF didn't quite 'cut the mustard'), meaning any 'impulse' from the Raduino (the si5351) had less chance of getting through to the main board's supply.
I'd seen reports of distorted audio at low levels, too, and that was cured with the vulnerability/instability by the resistor to the 'in' pin. Now, if the TDA chip has a similar input circuitry it may well have that same vulnerability - on both channels! QED.
Hope the convoluted logic makes some sense ...
73
Dex, ZL2DEX
|
Sergio looking at your photo I see that the wiring is very long and goes over the pcb.
Having long wires all over the place is asking for all sorts of interference pick up and feedback between the circuits.
Can you try to shorten all wiring to make it as short as possible and not cross over the board? Before you shorten them try moving them up and around and see whether it makes any difference. I also noticed that you do not have a short thick earth connection between the LCD / arduino and the main pcb. That may also cause interference because the return will be through thin long wires. Also using plastic cases do not provide any screening from interference from outside the set.
Try it and report back Regards Lawrence
On Wed, Apr 18, 2018 at 5:40 PM, Skip Davis via Groups.Io <skipnc9o@...> wrote: Sergio, if I understand you correctly? that your not receiving any signals with an antenna connected then it is possible that one or all of the oscillator signals might be missing.
If you have an oscilloscope you can check pins 3, 6, and 9 for signals these are the SI5351 clock outputs. I would also check over the Raduino board with a magnifying glass that all the solder connections are good.
I am not sure what test equipment you have there to help troubleshoot your problem, but I hope this helps you somewhat.
Skip NC9O
|
Sergio, if I understand you correctly that your not receiving any signals with an antenna connected then it is possible that one or all of the oscillator signals might be missing.
If you have an oscilloscope you can check pins 3, 6, and 9 for signals these are the SI5351 clock outputs. I would also check over the Raduino board with a magnifying glass that all the solder connections are good.
I am not sure what test equipment you have there to help troubleshoot your problem, but I hope this helps you somewhat.
Skip NC9O
|
Thanks for the reply
you can be a little more precise because I can not understand ... the translation!
My bitx is the latest version and uses the raduino as a tune. More friends have said that is the problem, but nobody has explained to me how to get rid of it!
This is my: http://www.hfsignals.com/index.php/2017/11/23/bitx40-circuit-description/
Sergio
It is a raster noise coming from the digital display/ frequency counter. ? ?Can't remember if the bitx40 has a
dds or variac diodes. ? Shield these and you should be ok. ? ? I have the noise, too, on both my bitx 40 and?
my MKARS80.
enjoy
Norm vk5gi
|
If you unplug the potentiometer, you will hear nothing! To try, I put shielded cables.
Among other things, it does not receive anything! Whether with an attached antenna or without changing anything! Very disappointed
Sergio
Dex,
He gets the clicking even when the audio pot (bitx40) is unplugged. I hazard a guess thats it from the power line..
If you see the video again, the clicking is loud when just switched on at zero volume. Then drops a bit and back
loud at mid volume.
|
|
www.youtube.com
annoying ticking in the audio
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Raj
At 18/04/2018, you wrote:
>Later reading: refresh loop would better explain the regularity - old library no longer required, upgrade! Resistors on audio inputs could still improve that low-end vulnerability - you may experience distortion there.
>73
>Dex, ZL2DEX
|
Ok thanks found! I'll try!
Among other things, I think he does not receive anything! Whether with an attached antenna or without changing anything! I am very disappointed! I also wrote to HFsignals saying to watch the video. They say the cards are numbered and try one by one! I
told him what they tried of mine! This 3 days ago, I have not even answered :(
Sergio
Find C110 on the board, it is printed clearly.
Add another in parallel to it under the board. Keep polarity properly.
Raj
At 17/04/2018, SaMa photo SaMa photo wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The capacitor C110 - 470 uF? Try replacing it?
"Try to add some capacitors to the audio amps power supply line and see" Can not you send me a diagram of where to place the capacitors and with what capacity? I'm not that specialized :(
Grazie
Da: [email protected] <[email protected]> per conto di Raj vu2zap <rajendrakumargg@...>
Inviato: martedì 17 aprile 2018 15:38
A: [email protected]
Oggetto: Re: [BITX20] Help me! annoying ticking in the audio #bitx40help
?
Sergio,
You are hearing the LOOP refresh of the nano controlling the SI chip. What is strange is that you can hear it with the
volume control disconnected.
Try to add some capacitors to the audio amps power supply line and see. It should go away. The filter capacitor C110
may not be soldered properly or defective.
Raj
|
It is a raster noise coming from the digital display/ frequency counter. ? ?Can't remember if the bitx40 has a
dds or variac diodes. ? Shield these and you should be ok. ? ? I have the noise, too, on both my bitx 40 and?
my MKARS80.
enjoy
Norm vk5gi
|
Find C110 on the board, it is printed clearly.
Add another in parallel to it under the board. Keep polarity
properly.
Raj
At 17/04/2018, SaMa photo SaMa photo wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The capacitor C110 - 470 uF? Try
replacing it?
"Try to add some capacitors to the audio amps power supply line and
see" Can not you send me a diagram of where to place the capacitors
and with what capacity? I'm not that specialized :(
Grazie
Da: [email protected] <[email protected]>
per conto di Raj vu2zap <rajendrakumargg@...>
Inviato: martedì 17 aprile 2018 15:38
A: [email protected]
Oggetto: Re: [BITX20] Help me! annoying ticking in the audio
#bitx40help
?
Sergio,
You are hearing the LOOP refresh of the nano controlling the SI chip.
What is strange is that you can hear it with the
volume control disconnected.
Try to add some capacitors to the audio amps power supply line and see.
It should go away. The filter capacitor C110
may not be soldered properly or defective.
Raj
|
Dex,
He gets the clicking even when the audio pot (bitx40) is unplugged. I hazard a guess thats it from the power line..
If you see the video again, the clicking is loud when just switched on at zero volume. Then drops a bit and back
loud at mid volume.
Raj
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
At 18/04/2018, you wrote: Later reading: refresh loop would better explain the regularity - old library no longer required, upgrade! Resistors on audio inputs could still improve that low-end vulnerability - you may experience distortion there.
73
Dex, ZL2DEX
|
repeating: That's your 'pattern' - translate the symbols to the actual items.
That's a giant step in learning about anything electrical/electronic. Dive deep - it's exciting and absorbing! Have FUN!
73 - e ciao! (hope I got that right)
Dex, ZL2DEX
|
Later reading: refresh loop would better explain the regularity - old library no longer required, upgrade! Resistors on audio inputs could still improve that low-end vulnerability - you may experience distortion there.
73
Dex, ZL2DEX
|
For the confused: My experience is with the Bitx-40, and my second sentence above explains the cure there. My last sentence refers to the uBitx circuit diagram - the numbers are printed on the board.
Circuit diagrams for both are on the hfsignals website. That's your 'pattern' - translate the symbols to the actual items.
Hopefully helpfully,
Dex, ZL2DEX
|
Good evening
it's a Bitx40
Sergio? IU2KOI
If turning down the volume control decreases volume of the clicking then the
problem may be ahead of that point.? If turning down the volume control does
not decrease the clicking then the problem may be after the volume control.?
Since the problem goes away when the Raduino is unplugged it may be coming
from that unit, but not 100 percent sure of that.? Unplugging the Raduino kills
several signals to the BITX and thus clicking going away may be caused by
disabling something in the BITX itself.
At this point we probably need to know if this rig is a BITX-40 or a uBITX?? Next
troubleshooting steps will depend on which radio we are working with.?
Arv
_._
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Show quoted text
Thanks for the reply
it's maybe the first thing I did! I tried to feed it with two different stabilized power supplies! 12V 2A and 12V 5A but does not change anything!
Tested with antenna and without antenna but does not change anything! I also realized that he receives nothing! The antenna to try was just a piece of wire, just to try the reception!
If I disconnect the bipolar raduino plug, the noise disappears! If I disconnect the three-pole potentiometer plug, the noise remains.
I do not know what to do... :-'(
Sergio? IU2KOI
Have you made sure that the interference is coming from inside
the BITX and not from some external source?? Moving the BITX
to another location or using a battery power source could help
determine if the problem is internal or external.
Removing the antenna connection and shorting the antenna terminals
can help to determine if the clicks are internal or external.? Just be
sure that you do not attempt to transmit while the antenna is shorted.
Static build up on the antenna can cause clicks as the charge is
discharged by arcing.? A 47K ohm resister across the antenna
terminals can bleed off static build up without interfering with antenna
impedance, if this is the problem.
Arv? K7HKL
_._
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Good evening and thank you for your kind reply
I'm not that specialized! :( if I have a pattern, a design in front I follow it, but I can not say that! I already struggle with the translation ...
I've watched the video, and noted that ticking increasing in level at low volumes. I venture this is an instability similar to that sometimes present in the Bitx-40, solved by a resistor (1 to 10k) from Vol-wiper to IC 'in' pin. Now the TDA chip is 2 amplifiers,
and it's likely both are unstable. Voltmeter pin 1 (AC range) or o'scope, and you'll likely see the 'blips'you hear, and then on pin 3 constant blips.
Cure: replace R75 with 2k2 or so (solving the high-level), and similar 2k2 pin7 to VOL-M and top of C78 (break that track) to solve the low-level...
73
Dex, ZL2DEX
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Good evening and thank you for your kind reply
The kit arrived last week! I think the firmware is the most updated!
My problem is that I'm not that specialized! If I'm told, put capacitors to filter the Arduino power line but I'm not sent a small diagram on how to do and what to use, I do not know how to move! :(
Thank you
Raj's response seems to be more on target, post 46601
Also Dexter's post about filtering the 12v power supply line to the Raduino.
This may be firmware issue but I doubt it.
The original firmware for the Bitx40 as shipped did not have a problem with tuning ticks.
About a year ago, the Etherkit library was changed to reset the si5351 PLL whenever the frequency changed,
and that definitely caused clicks when tuning.? If you happened to update firmware within the month or
so time period when the problematic Etherkit library was out, then yes you may have firmware
that is causing tuning clicks.? As of last summer, Allard's code no longer uses the Etherkit library.
Regardless, it's a very good idea to update your Bitx40 to Allard's latest firmware.
I'd recommend the v2 firmware, though it does require a few simple hardware mods
that Allard's v1 firmware does not need.? ?
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github.com
GitHub is where people build software. More than 27 million people use GitHub to discover, fork, and contribute to over 80 million projects.
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Jerry, KE7ER
On Tue, Apr 17, 2018 at 06:07 am, SaMa photo SaMa photo wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Sergio,
I am reprinting Marco KG5RPT post here.
----------------begin quote ----------
?
This has to do with the SI5351 library.? Upgrade the software to Allard's version and the issue should go away.
A lot of work was put into the software to resolve this and many other issues.
?
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Raj vu2zap
Skip Davis