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I have been looking into using a different encoder, I have an optical 400ppr which is very smooth (fresh from China) looks to be good quality but is close to 2 inches in diameter. I ran across a neat looking capacitive ?unit that can be set from 48 ppr to over 2000 ppr ?which looked interesting to me. They say they have a longer life than the magnetic or optical. The one I was looking at was made by CUI ?and the number of it is AMT103-V. I ordered one from Mouser. The shaft goes through it which I close to what I wanted . I plan on using a bearing on each side of the encoder with a flywheel (metal disc) on the back side which should have a good free spinning motion. Speed is going to depend on how fast the arduino can read it so this is where the adjustable ppr setting would come in handy.?
-- Allen ?Merrell |
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Vince Vielhaber
I used one of those on a CB-to-10 mod I had done. I had to modify the software to ignore some pulses from it 'cuze it was too sensitive. I made the knob for it out of 2.5" aluminum round bar. Give that thing a good spin with that knob on it and it turns for a good long time! But to make a fine adjustment, no problem at all. Clean and smooth.
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Vince - K8ZW. On 06/07/2018 05:56 PM, Allen Merrell via Groups.Io wrote:
I have been looking into using a different encoder, I have an optical --
Michigan VHF Corp. |
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Vince Vielhaber
Mine's also a 400. 2" should work fine. The knob I made is close to an inch thick. The only reason I had to go with 2.5" was to cover up the window for the channel selector (case is an old CB base station) otherwise I would've gone with 2". I had 2" on hand, I had to buy the 2.5", 3" was too big and too much waste to turn down to 2.5".
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Vince. On 06/07/2018 07:29 PM, Allen Merrell via Groups.Io wrote:
Vince --
Michigan VHF Corp. |
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I'm ?going to give the 2 inch a try turn I down a little to smooth it up then put a light knurl on it. Was the 400 ppr you used an optical or capacitive encoder. The atm103-v is capacitive ?and has a dip switch where you can program it for ppm steps from 48 to over 2000. I was thinking of starting at 48 and going up to get to what works best or that is my intention.
-- Allen ?Merrell |
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I used one of the Chinese 400 ppr optical units in a 40/20/30 receiver I completed last month. I ended up skipping 12 pulses before taking action. This is roughly 32 ppr and performance is the same as when I used a Bourns EM14R0D-R20-L032N part. You will probably have to add pullup resistors to use the 400 ppr unit. I used 4.7K resistors in my receiver.
My processor was a PIC16F1719 for that receiver so I can't show? any code that would work in an Arduino environment. The PIC is running at 32 MHz and has no problem keeping up with the encoder. I do handle the encoder with an interrupt routine and the well know lookup table method. I.E., static int8_t lookup_table[] = {0,-1,1,0,1,0,0,-1,-1,0,0,1,0,1,-1,0}; Ray AB7HE |
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Ray
Thanks, I have been checking around on the optical and find that the 4.7k pullup is what others are using with the Arduino as well as an interrupt routine. I see where I also need to make some pin changes to make it work properly. I am thinking of using a 2560 mega or the mega mini pro because I don't ?think their is enough room left on the nano. I want to use the cec firmware on it but modify it to work with the optical encoder and also want to work on a version that will work with the CUI AMT103-V ?capacitive ?encoder which I think may work pretty good ?also. 73's ?kn4ud ? -- Allen ?Merrell |
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I tried an encoder similar to the one provided with the kit.? Mine has detents, but it did not work well.? Went back to the original no-detents encoder.? Mounted a separate pushbutton on the front panel.? The encoder often slipped when I used its internal switch.
The supplied encoder has a 6-mm shaft.? So a knob for 1/4-inch shafts makes the knob motion eccentric.? To overcome this, I took a large 1/4-in-shaft knob and filled the back, including the shaft well, with MinWax epoxy wood filler.? (Oil the set screw so it the epoxy won't stick to it or infiltrate the threads.) After the epoxy cured and sat for a couple of hours I machined off the excess epoxy in a mini lathe and drilled a new shaft well with a letter "B" drill.? The set screw easily breaks through the thin epoxy in the shaft well. ? (See attached photo.) -- Jon Titus, KZ1G Herriman, UT USA |
